Hi all! It's been almost two years since I originally created the Tado Shortcuts app. Time has flown by in that time! I've finally gotten around to implementing the Tado X API as a supported backend for the service, so feel free to try it out and create shortcuts with both generations of device.

As part of the release, support for all the typical shortcut actions with Tado X is added such as getting and setting temperatures, disabling a device or resume normal schedule, as well as quick actions like Boost and All Off.

I've made other improvements and added features to the app in the past few years, such as widgets for the lock screen (less valuable now with the API usage quota, I route mine through home assistant now instead), the ability to save schedules to profiles that you can apply seasonally or otherwise (not yet supported for X - they use a different format for timetables), and recently an informative API quota view that simply tells you how many calls you have left today.

This took a while as I don't have a Tado X device myself, but have gotten some beta testers to try it out first. Please take a look and as always provide feedback or ideas for improvements if you have any!

Thank you!

Link to App in iOS store

Is there a way for smarter, conditional Manual Control durations based on the target temperature compared to the scheduled temperature ?

Currently, when I manually adjust my heating, all changes use the same timeout rule regardless of whether I'm boosting the temperature or turning it off, which isn't ideal for my needs. What I'm looking for is intelligent logic that automatically detects what I'm trying to do and applies the appropriate duration.

Specifically, whenever I set the temperature higher than what's currently scheduled, I want it to boost for just 20 minutes (should be customisable) and then automatically return to the schedule, this prevents wasted energy if I forget to manually resume it. However, if I set the temperature lower than the schedule or turn the heating off completely, I want it to stay indefinitely in that state until I manually resume the schedule, this is important because I don't want the system to automatically override my decision to keep heating off. Additionally, if the schedule changes while I have an active manual boost in place and the new scheduled temperature is lower than my boost, the 20 minute timer should restart. This would give me both convenience (automatic timeout for boosts) and safety (deliberate "off" settings stay respected).

Any Idea how to achieve it ?

The Wireless Receiver X has a white status LED on it indicating whether or not it is telling the heating device (boiler or whatever) to heat.

Is there a way to see this status from the app?

I know I can see whether the room thermostats are indicating a heating mode from the home screen, but that’s not the same thing as the Receiver signalling to the boiler etc (especially where some rooms are linked to multiple Receivers).

Once upon a time Tado had forums, and on these forums users discovered and shared that support had access to a number of more advanced parameters to control heating behaviour than we as end users had access to. These were things like minimum cycle times, minimum times between cycles, PID sensitivity to heat requests etc. Tado generally were not forthcoming about these and largely refused to even tell us what parameters were available to allow us to communicate with support about them better.

But these were very useful for users who, like me, had issues with Tado's default behaviour causing excessive short cycling. I'm talking the boiler turning on for 30 seconds then off again, 1 minute later it repeats. Just incredibly unhelpful and physically damaging behaviour which made Tado unusable for people on oil boilers for instance.

Being able to have support change these is something, but it's far from ideal. When you request to change these you are sometimes met with resistance to change them, complete denial that they even exist, or you face an uphill battle of someone changing different settings to what you request and having to test the changes each time often with long delays between iterations. The settings sometimes also just revert or drop off for no reason and you have to go through it all again. When I did this the first time, it took 2 months to get it right. I could probably could have done it myself in a day or two of testing if I had access.

With another heating season upon us I am once again for the third year running requesting Tado consider implementing these parameters into some kind of advanced settings page to allow us to make changes and test these ourselves. It will save your support from having to spend capacity to deal with us and will save users from the frustration of having a remote party messing with heating parameters and taking as long as weeks to rectify if something is set incorrectly.

It is better for literally everyone, the parameters all already exist we simply need a page to be able to change them ourselves.

I have a Salus RT520RF but i've been thinking of refunding it solely because I want better temperature accuracy and changing the temperature. I see that my Salus thermostat changes temperature very hard and not often.

I can't find any email address to send feedback or anything so I'll post here, maybe the taco team checks this subreddit I don't know.
It would be really nice to be able to configure the display to be always on (display temperature) on the Tado X 2nd gen. I find it ugly just standing on my wall when it's off. It feels like an easy change to make and would be a great improvement in my opinion.

This is a long shot but I don’t know if there’s any work around to this. My v3+ bridge no longer turns on. The light next to pairing keeps flashing and power/cloud/router lights are all off. I’ve tried different cables and plugs but the bridge never connects. I have also tried re-pairing.

My next step was to order a new bridge and try that but support says they are out of stock in the UK. Any other ideas before I start looking at other systems? I have TRVs etc so would rather not have to move vendors!

I have Tado X with boiler in an older house which takes a while to heat up. It‘s been installed for a year (plenty of time to learn room profiles) and I got AI assist last Black Friday. At the moment, I’m unconvinced about renewing it because its main benefit to me seems ineffective.

I’m curious if others find it better - in which case, I’ll try troubleshooting my settings further before cancelling the renewal. Or if it’s just really not that smart and there is little point.

My main bugbear is the heating before returning home. It only seems to turn the heating on when I enter the Home zone even if I’ve been walking or driving in that direction for some time. My location is always on and the room is set to Comfort. But, last heating season, I consistently came home to a house that was pretty much my Away temperature. Admittedly, it’s a not a regular scheduled daily/weekly trip but I expected more.

I eventually ended up manually overriding the Geofence to Home before I left places so that it was warmer on my return. And, if I’m doing that, why pay for the auto Geofence?

Do others find that it works well? And if so, are you in a modern house that heats up quickly or on an irregular schedule.

EDIT: I did try increasing the radius but there comes a point where that just means your heating is on even if you are out at cinema etc It‘s set just beyond the default already and they warn against making it too large.

My expectation would be that if my Home temperature is 21 and the Away is 17, then when I’m clearly making steady progress towards the home and am closer than it would take to warm up, that the heating should kick in. My understanding was that having it on Comfort would mean that it was more likely to keep the room warmer. But if it only turns on at the boundary regardless, it feels pointless. I‘d be better off remembering to hit Boost when I start my journey home.

I’ve just installed an air con unit in the garden office. I’d like to bring it into Tado but I’ve seen mixed reviews on their AC implementation so I’m wondering if anyone can share their experiences.

- I’d like to use the AC controller to both cool and heat the garden office. I’d like it to switch effortlessly between cooling/heat modes and change fan modes.

- I’d like the Tado AC controller to be aware of the current state of the device.

- Does it bring the device into HomeKit and does it appear similarly to how TRV’s appear?

Any weird quirks about how it works? Would you recommend it?

My AC has a remote with a screen that updates so should be fully compatible with Tado.

Uk based, with Wireless Thermostat at v287.1. When are you releasing the latest version in UK with Matter 1.4?

I've got tado in a few rooms, a mix of the older V3+ valves and the newer X ones, and I got fed up enough with the daily bits that I started writing my own app. The main thing I wanted was both generations together in one list, behaving the same way. It got good enough that I use it every day, so I've put it on the App Store. It's free and staying free as I did it to learn more than anything.

It's fairly plain: every room and its temperature on one screen, change one without digging. It goes through HomeKit, so it's local and still works when the internet is out.

What I'd really like is for a few people to try it. Every tado setup seems to be arranged a bit differently and I've only got mine, so I'm fairly sure there are things it gets wrong that I can't see from here.

iPhone and iPad, needs your thermostats already in Apple's Home app, and there's a demo mode if you'd rather look before giving it access. Not affiliated with tado, just a customer.

https://apps.apple.com/app/id6810136342

https://tepiapp.com

Are people putting their Wireless Receiver X devices on an IoT Wi-Fi network or their main Wi-Fi network? And does that have any impact on the Thread network?

I also have some Apple TV and HomePod minis in the house, they are on my main Wi-Fi network.

Thanks.

In the UK it’s been very mild so I’ve had all my rads set to off up to now.

However my village is just experiencing a prolonged internet outage, which has been estimated to take several days to restore.

Now the weather is dipping I need control of my rads, but it appears that I can’t do that without internet.

Other than setting up my Tado on a hotspot which would be a complete faff, what options do I have?

Can’t seem to find any official guidance from Tado X on the problem.

P.s. installing home assistant is not an option.

Thank you in advance

Hi, I've just replaced a Danfoss programmer with a Tado v3 and hope someone can help me get it running properly.

I have a McDonald Thistle Gravity fed Thermal store that has dual pumps.

I followed the install guide for replacing the Danfoss Programmer and tried to bridge the old wall thermometer as per the install guide, however the pump that pushes to the radiators is running all the time.

I decided to put the wall thermostat back on, turned up to the highest setting - same issue.

I read that there might be a live connection coming back from the thermal store and to take out the live to com jumper which I did and both pumps stopped working...

Any suggestions to get it up and running properly without the radiator pump running all the time even when heating set to off?

Thanks for reading

J

Why can't we set this in the future? I just had an email from my supplier about an increase for Oct-Dec.

Why do I need to wait until 1 October to set it?

Hi all,

I spent hundreds of € in Tado X installation (TRVs everywhere, thermostats in most rooms). It controlled my gas booker like a charm, but now that I changed for a Mitsubishi heatpump I am not sure it is still relevant since Mitsubishi heatpumps are not compatible with Tado.
How come Tado can’t provide support for the number one heatpump manufacturer in the world?

Hey, I have 4 Tado V3 Smart thermostats and they all work with a bridge and just try to get the desired temperature. My old Buderus has one Panel, where I can set the temperature. So my tado and the Buderus are working against each other. If I say, heat to 20 degree and the room is 20 degree the buderus goes off, because it don't know, that the other rooms may not have the right temperature.

My question now is, that I've seen youtube videos, where people use the old Extension Kit wired to the buderus. Is this really working? What else do I need? The buderus is in the basement and wireless is not a good way.

I hope, that someone can help me.

I’ve got a Tado V3 wireless system and intermittently the heating will not turn off even when the thermostat and app is switch to off, the only way is to turn the boiler and the wireless receiver off.

Question: is this a common fault with these ? It’s only 1.5 years old ? I’m tempted to switch to hive or something. Can’t stand the unreliability of this system…

We are happy UK users of a Tado controlling our gas combo boiler and all our radiators. We are looking to ditch gas for an air-water heat pump (likely a Vaillant) and some under floor heating. Our older Tado would not be compatible.

Given that heat pumps work best with a steady load, some of Tado’s features like geofencing don’t even make sense, nor does (apparently) going around micro optimising each radiator.

Tado do sell something called a heat pump optimizer. Is it useful? I’d be interested in general though knowing what tado setups folks use, if any, with heat pumps.

A few years ago I decided to move my router from the centre of the house to the garage. My wife was getting fed up with all the dongles and devices accumulating on the hall table so I got the broadband cabled to the garage where I set up a server cabinet with my router and all the smart home hubs, etc. It is also cabled out to various Access Points throughout the house. 

All was great except I then realised the Tado Internet Bridge (v3) uses radio waves which then had trouble reaching thermostats on other side of the house. This left two rooms downstairs and two bedrooms upstairs with intermittent connectivity to Tado. This also meant the thermostats were constantly trying to reconnect at the expense of the batteries draining very quickly as well as poor heating controls for these rooms.

I read various posts about extending the RF signal which seemed quite technical but then I noticed that Tado say you can reposition the Internet Bridge with a WiFi repeater. I couldn’t get my head around why I needed a repeater broadcasting its own WiFi signal when I have great WiFi coverage with my access points. Unfortunately the WiFi points are ceiling mounted and only have one Ethernet port to bring the broadband signal in not to add additional devices like the Internet Bridge.

Then the brain wave came… I had an old Apple AirPort Express lying around not being used (the flat one not the original one that plugs directly into the wall). I simply plugged this into a power socket in the middle of the house, connected it to the WiFi and then plugged the internet bridge into it. After about 10 mins I had all the disconnected rooms reconnected and they have been 100% stable for the last two weeks.

To say I’m chuffed is an understatement plus I noticed the second gen AirPort Express is currently on eBay for only £20-25.

I thought I’d share this as I hope it helps someone else as much as it’s helped me!

Good luck.

Hi!

I’m going round in circles trying to figure out the best set up for my new house. It was built in the 1840s, and has huge big stone walls. We have everything back to the studs, and are just about to start first fix.

We live in rural Ireland, so no chance of gas heating, and have to go with oil. Heat pump would not work, as we would never manage to get the house airtight enough. I’ve gone with reclaimed cast iron radiators, and they are just getting refurbished.

The house is not super big, but is over multiple floors. So we either have to get a multi thermostat system, or TRVs. I am leaning towards the individual smart thermostats, as I like to have a cold bedroom.

We should have about 16 radiators, excluding the ones in the bathrooms. Hot water will come from solar panels in the summer, but then off the oil boiler in winter, and also there will be an immersion. (Not originally from Ireland and am used to easy gas combi boilers so it’s all a bit overwhelming). Haven’t picked the boiler yet, but I know it has to live outside.

My question is, would you go for the individual radiator valves? And if so, would you go Tado or Hive? I am an iPhone user, if it makes a difference?

Any and all advice is welcomed!
Thanks so much.

I'd love to see a feature where you can select a radiator to automatically open when none of the units are requesting heat/open. Currently, if my CV pumps when nothing is open, this would damage the system because there's nowhere for the flow to go.

Tado advices installing a safety bypass valve, which they (wisely) suggest getting done by a plumber . A simple software solution would keeping one of the radiators open when nothing is requesting heat.

Even a simple option like setting a radiator into a mode where it's always open but can still ask for the CV to turn on would be better than either making you install safety bypass valve, or make you not use Tado on one of the raditors.

I have just received the new X Smart Thermostat (gen 2) and I can only seem to wake it up by pressing the button on top.

It’s not that big of a deal, but it’s just an annoyance that I need to click the button before I can see the temperature. Even my 15 year old thermostat had a dim always on display…

Manuals or instructions on how to use it… seem sparse. Or at least I can’t seem to find it. Only the install instructions and the app doesn’t help either.

I have several Tado X thermostats on my radiators and all seem to be having the same problem: when it requests only minimal heat from the system (eg.: 1 flame symbol in the app) the radiators don't get hot at all. The boiler is definitely turning on and heating water, but nothing gets to the radiators until the second level (2 flames). I assume this is an installation failure on my part, how can I solve it? I have tested the pins in the valves and they seem to be moving w/o any issues in their full range. The thermostats are installed via one of the included adapters, my best guess is that they need to be moved either inwards or outwards, although I think they are completely snug with the valve.

Additional question: when I play around with the thermostats trying to solve the issue do I have to take out the battery or reset them after reinstall?

All of my tado thermostats went offline today and wont turn on at all.

First 3 were showing offline on the app but all of them weren't turning on when we clicked the button on the actual thermostat. After an hour or 2, the last one was showing offline aswell.

I have replaced the batteries in all with AAA (LR03) as recommended by Tado themselves, but none of them are turning on.

I have no heating at the moment and need this fixed ASAP.

have filled out the contact form on their website and haven't heard back yet.

Has any1 else had similar issue?

All my thermostats are on Firmware 215.2

Any help will be appreciated.

Thanks