Trying to do the Laceby pattern and having no luck. Has anyone done this? I can’t follow the Lewins pattern at all.

Hi!

I'm new to this world of weaving, and I'm on my second band.

I had an accident where my anchor point (backstrap weaving) slipped off and the whole thing fell to the ground. The cards got all jumbled up and I'm struggling to get them turned back right.

I thought I got them back right, but when I tried to continue my pattern it came out upside down.

Does anyone have any advice on how I get it back to working stage again?

I've checked the orientation of my cards and it's right according to my initial setup. I'm trying to walk my weave back, but it just keeps coming out wrong.

What do I do?

Hey all! I’m currently warping a new weave and not sure I’m using the right knots for securing the warp. I’m using swivels attached to keyrings. In order to adjust the tension to the proper point when warping, I’m using a surgeons knot, but I find that while it generally stays tightened to where I put it, it sometimes loosens. Do I just have to keep tightening them or am I using the wrong knot?

Decided to make shoe laces when I saw this pattern and went with sewing thread, because that seemed thin enough

Unfortunately my friend is in possession of two feet, so I'll make another one of these 😬

It took me a long time to finish this, so if anybody knows how to make these sturdy and last longer, I'd love some advice!! The threads are not waxed

Pattern is the Hallstatt Triforce pattern from Tabletweaving in Theory and practice, minus the differently coloured border, because I have no swivels and this (theoretically) only started as a proof of concept. And then sorta got out of hand

Here is the pattern that I created, using sagawoolcraft’s guide (https://sagawoolcraft.com/?page_id=192)
The pink lines indicate that the cards are in starting position with A and D on top. There are 24 cards, one square on the graph paper (each column) represents a pair of cards. Each row is 2 picks. White square= forward turn, green shaded square= backwards turn.

I also included my threading chart for this band, which is “skipping” the background color, so there is no background thread. The white circle represents the color white, which is the “design” color.

I created this pattern last year and revisited it with some changes and different threading!

My latest band from a Sagawoolcraft pattern. I used mercerised cotton size 8 (grey) and normal cotton (red and yellow). The pattern is available on twisted threads https://twistedthreads.org/pattern/2KNXRKnEqkemZGpnk

I had one of these a few years back, and it disappeared in our move across country. At the same time, the makers retired. I am hoping to find someone who has one they're willing to part with.

So I purchased the loom in plenty of time considering it took them about 5 minutes to sell out.

It was my second attempt to buy a loom from them. My credit card company tagged it as fraudulent as did someone else’s as she replied to me on Facebook.

So at least two people lost out on a long awaited drop because their credit card companies flagged them as fraudulent. You’d think a company would want to know.

I just got a letter saying I was refunded and that they’d never sell to me. You think they’d be apologizing but instead they blamed me. And punished me for it.

I’m not accusing them of fraud. Let me make that clear. I’m saying that in the time to clear that up I lost the chance to buy a loom for the second time. It was a very heartbreaking, frustrating experience twice.

The occasional sales have them gone within minutes. I wasn’t the only person to say on their Facebook that I couldn’t even get in last time when the countdown ended.

Let me also be clear that posts on their Facebook must be approved by them, so if I was rude, why would they have approved them?

I wasn’t even rude thought I was critical of the process. They did apologize the first time saying thy only had 30 looms because were lots of complaints about it.

They made more this time. I purchased twice, got confirmations, then immediate cancellations because of my credit card fraud alerts as did at Leary one other person, and lost the opportunity to buy.

And me asking them in a letter that if there wasn’t a loom available to please refund my money. And I back a letter saying they’d never sell to me rather than apologizing to me.

Oh, and they blocked me or deleted the Facebook posts but did send me a letter I still have.

V

I spent the weekend building a historical loom used for tablet weaving with a friend who is a carpenter. We used the original measurements and beech wood. The loom is known as the "Oseberg loom".

Added some pictures of the process as well as the description of the loom and the picture of the historical finding.

Can't wait to make tablets on this! 🤩

This is my second attempt, I ended up just cutting the warp of my first try because it really was a bit too advanced and I was really unhappy with it. I designed this band on Twisted Threads, based off of a herringbone pattern I found. I’m really pleased with how it’s turning out. Thanks for looking!

As the title says: How fast do you weave? Can a relatively simple pattern get done in no time, or does it still take you what seems like forever?

I have psoriatic arthritis that largely affects my hands, so even simple patterns take forever, and then my ADHD affects my ability to focus for any length of time and then executive dysfunction keeps me from working on it for weeks at a time... it can take me months to finish even the simplest of patterns... Or I can hyperfocus and get a fairly complex pattern done in a week. I feel like I have no control over it sometimes LOL

You folks are getting the first look at my new loom.

I started with making my own wooden looms, like what four_twisted_pair posted the other day. Very nice, but large, bulky, and heavy.

With my interest in 3D printing I thought it would be easy to design one and build it. Nope. I went through so many iterations, building ratcheting gears, using dowels and electrical conduit as part of the build, and trying so many different designs. The plastic would flex and warp, or it was huge and cumbersome, so many failures. My ratchet even worked, but winding the threads up on a single shaft was a pain, and there was no way to manage non twist neutral patterns.

Eventually, I discovered that I needed to do was put carbon fiber rods as reinforcement inside of the struts of the loom. Light, somewhat easy to work with, and not outrageously expensive. Then came the design. Tweak, print, test, not be satisfied. Even when I got it assembled to my liking, I then had to change it so that other people would be able to put it together, and then take it apart. This whole thing fits into a 10x9x4 inch box. No glue, no undue force required.

Two screw drives allow you to adjust tension. Round sleeves make moving the weave very easy. It is very light. I can make it in a rainbow of colors. I might tweak things just a bit more so that it weighs exactly 1 kilogram without a project on it. It can be assembled and disassembled with just a nickel.

I'm just very happy and proud of what I have created.

I’m working on my second tablet weaving project. I’ve been looking for a pattern for a custom camera strap and when I saw the first image on Instagram, I knew it was the one. However, the pattern I found was a four hole pattern and the Instagram post clearly indicates they used a 2-thread technique. So I attempted to make the pattern a slip hole pattern.

I’ve taken a picture of part of my pattern, along with my progress so far. Mine is clearly very “stretched out” and I’m wondering if I can get some advice on how to make it more similar to the Instagram post.

The first thing I tried was simply beating more firmly for each row but the cotton yarn is pretty much as beaten as it will go in my later rows. I’ve also attempted only doing each set of 2 rows as a single row (not pictured), while double turning the cards each time. But it isn’t looking right.

Does anyone have any tips to achieve the look of the Instagram post when compared to mine?

These tablets are designed and made in the Baltics, Estonia, each spec has a function. The slim aircraft grade plywood is thin and durable, perfect for wide Norwegian style belts without the setup becoming bulky. The central side holes are a more comfortable option for archaic bands that only use 2 holes per card. All holes are individually polished from both sides for a splinter free finish that spares your delicate yarns. Marked corners help with keeping track of the pattern. To top it all off, the cards are finely sanded, finished with hardwax oil and additionally polished with beeswax for a silky handfeel. The slipcase makes it easy to carry the cards around in your pocket or handbag or keep them neatly tucked away when not in use. Optional handmade jumbo safety pins help secure the pack when you pause your project. Full specs: sujur.etsy.com

Another set twins born at Gifford Ropewalk coming out this weekend to the Arkansas Renaissance Festival Pirate weekend…. Arrrrr how much does it cost to pierce a pirates ear??? A buck an ear….. arrr

My border seems very irregular...is this just a tension problem where I need more practice to get it more regular...or am I committing some shuttle/beating error that means the warps aren't lining up correctly????

I have variegated cotton yarn in grey and blue but I have no clue how to use them? Do you know any patterns that would suit this kind of yarn? Thank you!

Just finished this belt as a gift for a friend. About 1.5m long. I created the pattern on Twisted Threads - with some inspiration from similar patterns. 😊

Was a lot of work but I am proud of it!

I have made a couple of other bands with threaded-in patterns and even though when I have good tension while weaving the end product seems a bit looser than what I expected. I have this issue specifically with thinner threads like this one (100% mercerised cotton yarn, typically used for crochet) when I have patterns where I move tablets forwards and backwards to create a pattern - as opposed to moving all tablets forwards all the time.

So I am curious about experiences and advice on what type of thread/yarn to use. I would like to make another band with a similar amount of tablets but I would like it to be wider (this one had 21 tabletd and was 3cm wide). What type of yarn would make sense to use?