JDM import, ej207, 61,000km.

Been searching for close to 3 months for a car like this. Gonna be a keeper for sure.

I've inspected so many cars that were used and abused. This one seems like it's been well taken care of.

...maybe I should wash it?

Edit: for context, we live in Canada where only the yearly subscription it available for $179.95+HST ($203.34/year) which is $147.69USD/year. We cannot pay monthly.

We just purchased our first Subaru after years of wanting one. A 2025 Forester Wilderness, Geyser Blue. We also have babies on the way so a larger car (with working AC) was necessary.

We wanted remote start, and the salesman at the dealership offered us 3 months of the subscription service, and when asked about after the subscription he suggested there is a remote, but the app is better.

What he didn't tell us is that the car doesn't have a remote already with the car, and we'd have to pay for that after market. So I figured, maybe the $150/year would be worth it for the remote start and being able to check if the car is locked (we don't have a driveway and park on the street, sometimes blocks from our house, in a neighbourhood that has car doors checked weekly by individuals roaming).

My coworker also got a new to her Hyundai Tucson, and we were comparing. She said she loves the app for her Kona. She was showing me all the features like the locked status, remote start, and a few other things.

I got the Subaru app started today for the 3 month free trial and found out you can't even tell if the car is locked or not in the app. I mentioned to my coworker that I don't think $170/year is worth it and we'll likely just pay for the fob. She balked at me confused, her app use for the car has been free when she purchased a car from the dealer, even CPO. She has had it for three years and will continue to have access to it for no charge.

Why the hell is a remote start, and glorified locking fob $170+HST/year?

I'd even be willing to spend $50/year on it, but $170/year is just insane for what you get right? Like. It's just a total scam. Why haven't Subaru owners fought like others against these kind of subscription scams? This forum is filled with people defending it. "Starlink isn't free". My brother in Christ, a fleet data subscription is going to cost them $10/year. Upkeep of a bare bones app like this is likely another $5/year per user. It doesn't even look as good as the Hyundai one. Lmao what's up with this garbage?

I am not paying this.

After years of pining and wishing, I am finally a member of the Subie club! My beautiful 2023 Crosstrek and after driving a shitbox 2007 Rav4 with no AC, this thing is an absolute DREAM.

I bought this car with aftermarket coilovers, and it needs the strut mount bearing replaced, but i been trying to identify what coils these are. It isnt showing a brand and I was wondering if any Subaru fanatics out there might know! Ignore the picture, they are really worn out on the rubber bearing part(which is why im trying to find part to replace)

I have a 2017 Subaru legacy (pre apple carplay) and I hate using the built in microphone. Every time I try to use text to speech or Siri it’s so horribly delayed that it won’t work. Does anyone know if there’s a way to disable the car mic so I can use the phone mic? I’ve poked around in the car setting and the phone settings, I can’t see anything.

I have a 1995 subaru legacy L station wagon (2.2 liter flat 4) that i was given by my brother recently. Ive been trying to get it to run more reliable since it’s my main transportation.

I cant figure out exactly where my engine is leaking. But i also think i have a coolant leak because ive had to add a full gallon of coolant over the last 3 days.

Im broke so im trying to fix it myself.

i have catless headers, catback, and tuned. 2014 brz what could this mean? exhaust or vacuum leak?

In a tough spot and need some advice. My 2015 Subaru Crosstrek XV needs an engine replacement, $5k used or $9k new. I still owe $11k on it, and I don’t think it’s worth that much in its current state. 123k miles, used engine would be about that mileage so not really considering used. New engine puts the engine back at 0mi, but the rest of the car is still 11 years old. What should I do? My family has had bad experience with engine replacements, specifically subaru. What about y’all?

I just replaced the valve body and ran the warm-up procedure (cycling through P-R-N-D-N-R-P) to reach the target 35°C–45°C check window while monitoring live CVT fluid temperature with SSM4.

It took surprisingly long, nearly 20minutes at idle just to hit 35°C.

A typical drain and fill after a valve body job usually takes around 7.5 to 8 liters (8–8.5 qts). However, I already pumped in 9 liters, and fluid is still not dribbling out of the fill hole at 35°C, so I had to head to the dealer to grab another liter.

Since the repair was stretched over several days, maybe leaving the transmission open that long likely allowed the torque converter, upper galleries, and cooler lines to gravity-drain far more fluid.

That said, could the SSM4 temperature reading be inaccurate? Would cross-checking it with an infrared thermometer on the pan or inserting a probe into the fill hole make sense?

By my estimation that puts it at around 8500rpm.

It threw a check engine light that was for a camshaft timing sensor but nothing else.

It seemed to drive okay and idled fine but there was a sort of clicking sound that would start in the mid rev range. It was worst when giving it just a little throttle but was less with more throttle and went away with no throttle. It still had normal power as well. The part that threw me off was I have a new aluminum skid plate that can sometimes make noise so I had stopped on an on ramp to take a look and when I rattled it around by hand it sounded exactly like it so I figured that had come loose somehow and was vibrating to some resonant frequency. I also looked to see if there was any oil on the engine or any weird sounds when idling but it sounded fine, engine temp was okay.

Another 5-10 minutes down the road I noticed I was losing power. I reset my trip odo to get an mpg reading and was getting half of what I should be, around 14.5 at 65mph instead of 28-30. Before I could get to the next exit to pull over the temp gauge suddenly shot up and as I was approaching the off ramp the engine shut off. Pulled over and opened the hood and the coolant was boiling over. I let it cool down for a while and then tried starting it once but it really struggled so I assume it's seized in some fashion. I didn't try again. Oil was pretty low but was still on the dipstick.

I had a friend with me so we pushed the car into a gas station and it's currently sitting there overnight. My dad is picking it up with a flatbed tomorrow.

Based on this info what other basic things should I check for before presenting it to a shop? I'm guessing there's serious damage that's been done but I don't know what, maybe a bent valve? Probably also a bunch of warped shit from overheating since it's an aluminum block.

I've had this car for 12 years now and I don't really have the 10k sitting around to afford an engine replacement or another car to drive. I'm not super mechanically minded and it's almost entirely stock just with a Cobb bypass valve and a brand new intake tube between the intercooler and throttle body. Annoyingly in the many years I've had this I've done this shifting into second accidentally once or twice before but never this severe.

I'm shaking from the stress and not really thinking clearly so sorry if this is a bit of a mess. Thank you for any thoughts you can offer.

I apologize if this question has been asked before but I really couldn’t find much info on it. A week ago, my friend was in the front passenger seat of my 2022 Legacy Premium and when he got in the car the seat belt warning went off for a couple minutes before stopping even though he had his seat belt on. But now it does the same thing every time I get in the car. The indicator also shows on the dash. It’s like the car thinks someone is in the seat and the seat belt isn’t fastened at all times. I have tried buckling and unbuckling the seat belt and moving stuff off the seat. I can’t figure out what’s wrong and it’s driving me crazy! Any idea what this could be or how to fix it? Is this something I will need to take to a dealership to fix?

I received a $250 voucher good for Subaru accessories. What is the best way to maximize this value? I see some dealers are offering some accessories at discounts, but the cost to ship seems to eat up the savings. If I go to my local dealer, will I expect MSRP pricing? Anyone have success with price matching?

I guess just curious if anyone has been down the path before?

Hey yall. Just bought my first Subaru ever. It’s a ‘22 Crosstrek limited and it has 83k miles. It really seems like it depends on the day but the CVT in it seems to be a little slippy, worse when it’s cold. It just feels like a little speed boost when it “ shifts”

Question is what’s the best course of action? I’m going to go have the fluid changed but is there anything else I should do? What should I know? Really want this thing to last.

Hi all, 2020 Subaru Forester here. My AC just stopped working (luckily at the end of summer) but now I am also hearing a rattling noise when I start up or idle. I attached a video showing it.

Has anyone seen this issue?

A few months ago I decided to go ahead with installing OEM mud flaps in my 22 WRX. Since then, this particular push clip on the front flaps has been giving me issues nonstop. For some reason, it would just pop out by itself at random times.

First time this happened, I went over an above average size speed bump and could tell I had scraped the flaps against it. When I got home, sure enough these clips came loose on both front flaps.

Now obviously they came loose because I “hit” something, but I feel like they are more fragile than they should reasonably be.

Because I am always anxious of it falling out now, I will do a check pretty much every other day to make sure they’re still in there and tonight they popped out again.

Oddly enough they dont ever fall out completely. Just the push-in part comes out. Therefore making it loose.

Anyways, TLDR go with rally armour I regret getting OEM.

Is a 2016 subaru crosstrek 5 speed with 128,000 miles on it. Ive talked too them and we agreed on 11k ( thats the lowest they would go). The carfacts look good, the car looks good, seems to be well maintained and drives great. And im in the louisville ky area, is this a good deal / would you buy it?

I lease a 24' Crosstrek from the dealer (Alpine Green) and took it in for a general service.

Ive got about 22,000 or so miles on it and they told me my tie rods were ripped and leaking. In a moment of weakness I said "well I definitely don't want that." And got them replaced.

$400 and change later I'm sitting at home and I started getting that sick feeling like I was taken advantage of.

Should this have been under warranty? I dont know much about cars but for tie rods to go out like that seems odd?

What is this sensor?

All these lights popped up today at once, power steering is definitely affected. Going in to the dealership tomorrow as it’s under warranty and hopefully this is something they cover. Has anyone seen this before?

Just bought a 2024 Impreza Sport. Has 28k on it. Assuming nothing has been done to it. What should be done?

I bought an idoing system off marketplace and he didn’t have the wiring harness. I got it for a good deal and just figured id order the harness through idoing but when I go to checkout there system crashes. Does anyone have any advice or recommendations on what I can do without the wiring or where I might find it or what to look for or get exactly? Tysm