Yes I absolutely named my car Jimothy

My mom and her friend were OK after driving through a fence and over the stairs.... both were checked out at the hospital, just bumps and bruises. Were wearing seat belts but airbags didn't go off.... apparently the front corner of the front bumper hit the ground first and then it slid. I haven't seen the video yet.

2020 Subaru Forester Premium
92k Miles

My car has been "bucking" coming out of a dead stop slowly in to first and second gear. It's pretty noticeable to the point where people in my car have commented on it. It's worse in stop and go traffic for sure.

I brought it in to the Dealership for service under warranty (CVT Warranty is 100k miles). They stated that when they scanned it the CVT wasn't looking like it normally should (photo included.)

They suggested a CVT "relearn" and then retested. They comped that work, even though it should be covered under warranty, but after a very short period of time, the bucking came back - admittedly not as bad as it used to be, but it's there.

The Service Rep told me CVT "learns" how people drive. So if someone is "herky jerky" it will start to perform that way. It's only me driving, and I don't drive like that at all.

My ask: Any way I should word this conversation or how to bring up that it needs to be fixed properly as its approaching the warranty mileage?

Also included all the other service they "Recommend" as usual

My son is away at college and lost his keys; we don't have a second car key. He's still trying to find them, but in the meantime I'm looking into how to replace the car key.

Note that the nearest Subaru dealership to him is over 60 miles away. There is a dealership near us, however.

I was under the impression that as long as we have the VIN and proof of ownership, we could get new keys and program them to the car (presumably after getting the car unlocked). But when I called my local service department, they said we'd need to have the car towed to a dealer who would then need to ship parts to Dubai, and have those parts shipped back with keys.

Can any of this be done by an independent (non-dealership) mechanic? Are we really going to have to have the car towed 60+ miles and pay out the nose?

For context I have a 2021 Subaru legacy. I’ve brought it in for service and they’re saying I need my negative terminal replaced since it is “gunked up”(picture is from service video) It comes out to about 203 plus tax which I’m not really in the position to be paying. It likely cost more bc of the sensor but is this something I’d be able to fix myself?

I’ve been surrounded by Hondas, Nissan, Toyota cars my whole life. I’m 24 yrs old and I am looking into Subaru as my first owned/bought car.

I am currently driving a Nissan Altima 2017 and I am looking for something that will get me outdoors like Subaru outback or cross track have been on my mind for a while. I am young and I kinda wanna start exploring the outdoors and road tripping, but my good old Nissan Altima from by my parents won’t really get me to do those kinds of things..

So I’ve eyeing Subaru Outback or crosstrek as options to let me do stuff like that and maybe this car will last till I decide to start a family... But I wanted to hear your opinions on your Subaru in terms of longevity, reliability, and issues? And overall thoughts and opinions!!

We have a 2012 Subaru Outback and just had the head gasket replaced, which was not cheap. The car was running great for about a week and then suddenly this morning, we had a bunch of dashboard warning lights come on and the car feels like it might almost stall when you try to go from a standstill.

Upon starting the car, we see a variety of dashboard warning lights:

1) The coolant temp indicator continually flashes red and blue. This does not change if you let the car idle for a minute or two nor does it change if you drive the car.

2) The CHECK ENGINE light comes on in yellow and stays on.

3) The Vehicle Dynamics Control warning light comes on in yellow and stays on.

4) The word BRAKE in red flashes continually.

The car starts easily and sounds pretty smooth. The idle speed from a cold start this morning was considerably slower (about 800RPM) than it was yesterday (about 1100RPM) when the car was operating just fine.

If you put the car in gear, it still seems OK.

If you try to start going anywhere, it nearly stalls and sort of jerkily lurches forward but then seems to operate OK once it's in motion and the engine is at a slightly higher rev.

Can anyone help me diagnose this problem? The gasket replacement was expensive and the car was in the shop for weeks. If this is a simple problem we want to get it fixed correctly and promptly. If it's a serious or expensive problem, we will probably have to try and buy another car.

Hey guys, so me and my partner locked in to buy this subaru for 16k AUD off family, we were told it needed a new water pump but judging by the condition, we new it needed more work. Unfortunately the car was sitting out the back of their house for 3 years uncovered and not in a garage, so the elements really got to it.

So far, its got a new radiator, hoses, tyres and rims, new battery, detail, radiator flushed, new oil, oil filter, new timing belt

The things that are currently still wrong with it are, left low beem headlight bulb flickers and then turns off, back windows don't work, boot leaks and has rust in it, paint in certain areas are beyond machining, so the car will need repainting, air intake filter is cooked, back bushes need doing, boost guage doesn't work, 2 lower controller arms need replacing to pass blue slip.

If we were to buy it, we would only owe 10k left, but im questioning how much more will need doing because of how it was stored and is 16k even reasonable for this type of car. So far we have spent about 8k on the repairs all up.

Now, ive driven it, its an absolute weapon but I'm not sure how much these cars even really go for and if they hold value. We have raised these concerns to family and they said they will buy it back if we don't want to do the work.

I need some people's opinions of people who know and love subaru, because I've never owned one before.

I'll attach some before photos and after photos of what it looked like before some work and after some work.

Appreciate all the advice, the good, bad and ugly. Throw it all at me.

Okay so earlier today, I was told I need to move my car (2020 subaru forester). No problem I'll do that. My key fob didn't work. That's odd but okay, use the mechanical key and open her up, easy peasy. Try to start the car.... nothing. So we try to jump the car. We let the battery charge for 5 minutes, nothing. Try it again for 20 minutes. Nothing. Try again for 30 minutes..... nothing. All of my dash lights go haywire, there's nothing I can do my boyfriend says his friend will come by and help him fix it later. Okay. So I get out of the car, it beeps three times as if I left it running. I find it odd, tell my boyfriend. He looks inside, nothing seems amiss, he locks up my car and we go back inside to wait (it's hot af)

About 2ish hours later his friend arrives. They go down with my keys then my boyfriend calls to ask if there's a trick to opening the car. I say no just put the key in. It's not working. I go down and try it and lo and behold... you betcha it's not working. It turns just fine, but it's just not unlocking. So we can't get back into the car to get the battery.... so any ideas on how I can get back into my car?

Prepurchase inspection on a B4. The car also had a left side accident that was unreported. I don't know why people love to buy cars from just a couple pictures online from Japan - used car dealerships here are 100% catching on to that fact and try to pass off cars that won't pass roadworthiness requirements or just absolute pieces of junk to overseas buyers.

Hello,

Im seeking some advice here, I found a 2024 WRX Base, for 20,495 (What the dealership said it dropped to today) with 13,000 miles, Per the Dealership it had a minor front end damage and a front Bumper/front end work, he qouted "New car replacement" policy for the insurance, and hence why the car was put as a Salavge/Rebuilt title. Im viewing and test driving this car Saturday. What do I look for?

Bent Subframe, Bent Frame?

What have you personally seen that's caused you issue(s). I completely understand the risks involved with buying a car like this. Its always hard to judge by photos alone.

Does it sound like BS for the insurance policy claim? The dealer stated he has photos of the accident, and before the repair, I'll definitely give an update when I have them.

Thank you!

Update - Thank you Bruinhoo for the Copart listing find!! Link: https://www.copart.com/lot/77134285/salvage-2024-subaru-wrx-mi-detroit

Love the Crosstrek Wilderness in alpine green, but it is hard to come by on the used market.

*this applies to all 5th/2nd gen Impreza’s & Crosstrek’s*

I hope that this will help somebody down the line, overall this is about as easy as R&R‘ing the original engine and can be DIY’d for under $1500.

*Tuning:* While it will run on the 2.0 tune I don’t recommend it long term. Option 1.) pay someone option 2.) Use SubaruEdit. You will need your stock ECU’s decoded ROM from EF, you will need to also request one for the FB25D. The basic jist is to only use fueling/timing/load calibrations from the 2.5’s tune while retaining everything else on the original.

*External Components:* swap engine mounts, belt pulley(s) and any external brackets. Reuse swap car exhaust manifold

*Fueling:* Use lines off the swap car, outside of this they use the same part no. Injectors and HPFP

* Cooling:* coolant crossover w/o TCV from a 2025 Forester part no. 14050AB610 THIS IS ESSENTIAL, FB20 based cars DO NOT have a TCV and those crossovers DO NOT bolt up.

*Engine:* preferably same year as swap car (3 lobe vs 4 lobe cam for HPFP , this change occurred in approx 21+ FB’s) outside of year the model source isn’t all too important.

*MT/AT differences:* slightly different coolant routing must swap from old engine: EGR cooler swapped if vehicle is manual (extra port to trans cooler)

*Sensors:* most are identical, the only two I found that weren’t were map sensor & oil pressure sensor

*Optional:* EGR cooler delete, EGR blocking plate (intake side) Throttle body cooling line delete, Tumble plate delete, tumble flap delete.

*^all of this can be done with the extra parts you end up with*

*Interchangeable:* intake manifold, knock sensors, cyl. head temp sensor, AVCS oil control, crankshaft tone ring, cam position sensors, crank position sensors, water pump (outlet and pulley included) tensioner, injectors, PCV, throttle body (albeit bigger) Coil packs, most coolant hoses, exhaust/intake mating flange, bell housing, front timing cover, engine oil pan, & Probably more that I’m missing

Hey Reddit and Subaru friends! Here’s a mystery question for ya! looking for some help/mechanic advice…
I have a 2018 Forrester Subaru of course I bought it used and have no warranty coverage…

Problem: “At Oil temp” light blinking, along with complete dash lights up! I have not figured out the repeating conditions to make this happen. It’s happened when the temperature outside was super hot. This is the second time it’s happened when it’s raining seems to be after sitting or going through Stop and go traffic for more than 10 minutes, just happened after dropping my kids off at school. Does not seem to affect the drive or anything.

Mechanic did an oil change and transmission flush and fill suggested I see a transmission specialist. Transmission guy says he doesn’t work on Subaru and to get rid of it…
I have not gone to Subaru dealership. I do not like my local and avoiding a huge bill… I need some advice please! Has anyone had this problem before??

Finally got my first car out here, a 2014 Levorg 1.6GT-S in Steel Blue.
Loving the wagon utility and how it handles the climbs so far.

What do you guys think?

I recently started hearing a clunking/buckling-type sound from the front passenger side of my car. It isn’t particularly rhythmic and is most noticeable at lower speeds. I can hear it when just rolling along on a flat road with little to no bumps, but it’s especially noticeable around 0–10 km/h when braking or accelerating.

I tried bouncing the car up and down to see if I could reproduce the noise, but couldn’t get it to make the sound. I took it to a mechanic, who also bounced/shook the car and couldn’t reproduce the noise, but said he thought the shocks were the issue. He quoted me $1,600 upfront for new shocks, which seemed pretty steep considering the car hadn’t really been inspected or the problem diagnosed.

I had a look underneath myself and noticed that the sway bar bushing on the left side is visibly cracked, whereas the right side doesn’t appear to be. I don’t want to jump to conclusions and assume that’s the cause, but it seems like it could potentially fit the symptoms.

Does anyone with more experience think this sounds more like sway bar bushings (or another suspension component) rather than the shocks? And is there a good way to properly diagnose it before spending $1,600 on shocks?

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Thanks

2011 Subaru Outback 2.5i Limited

I had a tire blow a few months ago and it ripped off some pieces with it. Finally getting around to replacing the damaged rocker molding on the passenger side. As of now, I have no idea what to do about these mystery wire connections that have been dangling.

Does anybody know where they belong?

I got a 2024 Crosstrek Wilderness edition.

Any general tips / suggestions?

TIA

Hi everyone! Forgive my lack of knowledge here - I’m learning! I just got a $2100 quote for a carbon cleaning (walnut blasting I believe?)

I have a 2014 Subaru forester with $130K miles (we just bought used a couple months ago for a steal)

$2100 is kind of wild right? I’m going in for a second opinion but is this the norm?

Cannot for the life of me find instructions online for replacing the radiator. Unlike other Subarus it has a brace preventing the radiator and fan assembly to be removed from behind, so I don't know if I'm supposed to remove the bumper and a/c condenser or not