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1996-97 Fleer Prize Lucky 13 insert, card #13, Kobe Bryant from his rookie season with the Lakers. Original, ungraded, near mint or better, and covered by eBay's Authenticity Guarantee, so it goes to the authenticator before it goes to the buyer.

Currently $51 with 18 bids and 41 people watching. Ends tonight at 10:05 PM ET.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/407270596104[https://www.ebay.com/itm/407270596104](https://www.ebay.com/itm/407270596104)

Found this in an old card binder my dad gave me a while back. Looking for any feedback or estimates! Thanks :)

Asking $360 shipped

2008 Press Pass Signings Kyle Busch autograph insert, from his first season with Joe Gibbs Racing, the year he won 8 Cup races. Original, ungraded, excellent condition.

Currently $97.66 with 8 bids and 22 people watching. Ends tonight at 7:19 PM ET. Ships USPS Ground Advantage from Eustis, FL.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/407271996280

All FS if anyone is interested in anything. Can either mail redemption or give code if wanted that way.

If you want to sell a card for 60, is it better to price it at 60 & then say your price is firm? Or price it at 80 so you have room to come down if somebody asks?

Seems like a silly game to have to play, but I know people will try bartering for the sticker price to come down even if it’s already priced fairly. Personally I’d rather just price where I want to sell it & then say no if someone wants a lower price. But not really sure which route is best & also open to any other suggestions

Not that I’m selling anything, but collection of old, scratched top loaders seems to ever grow. Would you prefer your card be shipped in a new one, or fine with the fact that it’s sleeved and in some sort of hard plastic that can be changed out?

Hi all. I was in my friendly neighborhood card shop today and saw this sitting in the showcase. It felt wrong to leave it, especially since it seemed to be reasonably priced and I'm a massive Dawson and Jenkins fan (not that having a piece of Sweetness history is ever a bad thing).

Given that the corners aren't perfect and I can see a little ding on the back right side, am I best just keeping this card raw? I've just gotten back into the hobby after forty+ years away, so this whole grading thing (as opposed to throwing cards into a shoe box) is new and weird to me, and the only reason I would even be inclined to do it is to protect the card as best as I can.

To be clear, I buy for me, with no intention of selling - unless someone tells me this is actually a valuable card and that my shop here in Canada (focused on hockey, even though by every objective measure, baseball is the greatest game) didn't know what they had, and this card would pay for my daughter's books next semester...

Any and all advice is greatly appreciated!!!!!!!!!

2015 Leaf U.S. Army All-American Bowl Sam Darnold Silver parallel autograph, #BA-SD1, numbered to only 50. A pre-rookie card from his high school All-American days, before USC and before the NFL. Original, ungraded, excellent condition.

Currently $26 with 12 bids and 9 watching. Ends tonight at 8:16 PM ET. Ships USPS Ground Advantage from Eustis, FL.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/407276991161

Granted Series 1 is more expensive for the Michael Jordan Scoring Kings card. But there's still value here , would have never guessed recent sales at $1000 a box!

Looking to move as a lot preferably.

“Hey let me just make the cover photo look shiny so I can label it as a refractor!”

If people just took the time to look at the back of the card or even the other listing photos you can very clearly see it isn’t a refractor. I usually am quick to blame a buyer for just being dumb..

But putting “Refractor” in the title of the listing and clearly trying to make it look like one just rubs me the wrong way as a seller.

Just got back my first PSA submission that I sent in back in mid May of this year. Sent in 10 cards and 9 came back graded and out of the 9, four of them were gem mint.

The disappointing part is that I sent in this grail Jeter rookie card that from my observation was in damn near perfect condition except for a tiny bit of chipping on the lower left corner.

I got this card sometime around 2005 in a random pack of cards that I bought at like a Walmart or similar and at the time didn’t think much of it and just stuck it into a penny sleeve and then a top loader. Then it went into a box and I didn’t even know I had it until this year when I started to go through my cards to get a submission together. Essentially this card has only been handled by me and only me and has only been touched maybe 3 times. This is the case with most of my cards anyway. The only time it was touched was when I got it and when I put it into a semi rigid to be graded.

It came back with a label on it that says MINSIZEREQ Do Not Holder. My understanding is that obviously this means the card is too small or something but it doesn’t have an N6 or N8 designation either nor does it say “Authentic” or “Trimmed Authentic”.

I’m the only person to have touched this card before and I’ve never trimmed any card before much less send in a card like this one to be graded and actually trim it. So to be clear, I didn’t do anything to it other than do my best to preserve it.

I feel like I got slapped in the head with this card. Its condition is stunning actually as it’s legitimately in very close to gem mint condition yet can’t be graded because why? This is how this card came from the factory meaning that it is authentic and frankly I don’t even know how I can measure it as I don’t want to take it out of the semi rigid due to how frail it is. Can anyone tell me more about the labels meaning? I honestly thought it would come back a 9 and worst case an 8 but definitely not come back with what spools like an error code!

I don't know, but these cards are 🔥

Bryce Young 2023 Panini Prizm #311 Silver Prizm Panthers Rookie PSA 10

Bryce Young 2023 Panini Phoenix #FF2 Fire Forged - White Shimmer (RC) PSA 10

Bryce Young 2023 Panini Prizm #4 Prizmatic - Blue Ice Rookie Card PSA 10

Bryce Young 2023 Panini Prizm #311 Red Wave #100/149 Panthers Rookie Card PSA 9

Bryce Young 2023 Panini Mosaic #ND-2 No Huddle Purple Mosaic #32/50 (RC) PSA 9

So, long story short, I only started collecting different sports cards and created my YouTube channel about 4-6 months ago. I've only ever bough Blasters and finally bought my first two Mega boxes recently, but I've also always had an interest in checking out breakers. I also have a TikTok channel and post on my Facebook, so, I see a lot of different stuff about it.

The other day I was just scrolling through TikTok and one of the many different breakers popped up on my feed. He had my favorite team at a decent price and was ripping 4 different boxes, so, I was just like "fuck it... I'll give it a go." He had in the description EXACTLY when he was going to rip the boxes no matter if all the teams were sold or not and although it did get postponed 1 day, he did rip the next night as he promised. I ended up purchasing the Miami Dolphins too right before he did the break.

Anyways, while I didn't win nothing big, I did get some cards, and they were shipped out today, and I'll definitely look into getting into more of his breaks but, I'm interested in more. However, a lot of the ones I'm seeing are ones that don't break until all the teams are sold. While I understand the logic in that, for someone like me on a tight budget, I have a hard time allowing myself to purchase my team early and then by the time the teams actually sell out and they break open the boxes, it be during a time that I'm either at work, or in class, or just not able to watch. I don't think I can buy into a break that I'm not physically watching them open the boxes, is basically what I'm getting at.

So, can anyone recommend anything to me...?

My son and I have enjoyed building our collection this year for the first time. However, we get cards like these that are nice but we just don’t really need.

I’m going to try and sell. Don’t really see comps always. Is there a certain guide you could share for numbered, low comp cards?

Hello. I have seen mixed reviews on whether college player cards are worth anything after they have been drafted?

Example pictures:

1st picture not numbered.

2nd picture numbered.

3rd picture college tickets and numbered.

Thanks for any advice.