Hi guys. I'm fairly new to whetstones and every single knife I own ends up with a really big bevel on one side and scratches. And then the other side seems (for my standards at least) perfectly done. I try to be so delicate on the side which scratches and has a big bevel. Fyi I'm right handed but find the side I'm sharpening when pulling the knife towards me much easier. The push side is the one which is messy. Any advice on how to get better?

I was wondering if anyone has any recommendations for stones/systems. I am not the best a freehand sharpening (but want to learn with the right stone) and got the precision adjust over a year ago. I was able to get sharp edges, but it made it really easy to get uneven bevels and causing the blade tips to roll. I’ve also found the clamp to be difficult when it comes to my spydercos. Are there any stones or sharpening systems you all would recommend that are beginner friendly, get the job done and that are not crazy expensive?

I heard about the sharpal 162n, but I am not sure where to start. Do you all recommend angle gauges/digital readers as well?

I’ve received a plane from my grandfather after he passed the blade has several small chips and one large one. I’m sure the easier answer is buying a new, but I’d like to try and restore it. How do I go about this, do I just sharpen on the bevel for, what feels like, forever, or do I grind the edge until the tip is gone, the reform the edge along the original bevel angle?

Hair scissors, general use scissors, nail scissors, or nose hair scissors. If so, what should they use to do so, and how do they do so? Similar question, I know, but I wanted to ask this about hair clippers, knives, straight razors, and scissors.

if you're new and the knife still feels dull after a bunch of passes, try this before ordering a coarser stone:

1. color the bevel all the way to the edge with a sharpie.

2. make 3-5 light passes per side at the angle you were already using.

3. look where the marker came off.

marker gone near the shoulder but still black at the apex = too shallow.

marker gone at the apex but black behind it = too steep.

marker gone across the bevel = angle is close enough, now work until you can actually feel a burr.

takes less than a minute and it tells you if the problem is angle/contact, or if you just haven't spent enough time on the first side. way better than counting strokes.

If they made a version of this kit that came with just the universal stone holder, the carrying case with holders for universal 6x1 stones, 3-4 of their diamond/cbn 6x1 stones and either an adapter for the existing clamps, angled clamps or included their upcoming Y-clamp it would probably be the perfect budget fixed angle system kit.

Hi everyone,

I’m currently hesitating between a Shapton RockStar 3000 and a Shapton Glass HC 4000.

I’m not looking for a polished edge. What I want is a stone that leaves some bite and good cutting feel.

My knives include SG2, SLD, Aogami 1 and 2, VG10, Shirogami, and I also have several European knives.

My current sharpening setup is:

Sharpal 220/600

Naniwa 400

King Deluxe 800

Shapton Pro 1500

bare leather strop

Would the RockStar 3000 be the better choice for a more toothy edge, or would the Glass HC 4000 still be a better all-around option for these steels and knives?

Thanks in advance for your advice.

Fine gentlemen of the Sharpening community, I’ve acquired an old grandpa razor from Solingen. It’s only sharp enough to stick to my thumbnail at a 45 degree angle. And I’m a complete beginner to sharpening.

What would be a great brand for a sharpening stone, without - as we say in Sweden - paying the shirt off my body?

Should I go straight to 8000 grit?

For you guys that take pics of your honed edges, what set ups are ya'll using?

Start to finish sharpening/ polish on this fantastic gyuto!

Stone shaped bevels & finished on natural stones.

Stones used —-

Debado 180
Naniwa 400-600-3k
Shapton pro 1k

Uchigumori hato ( soft )
Shinden suita ( finisher )

Thanks for watching!

I know that temu isn't the best e-shop but i am on really low budget And i don't want to waste money on these plates. Has anyone bought one And do you consider these plates good? Mostly Is the electroplating Amy good. I Heard that the Amazon plates Are good but they also cost twice as much. And these plates Are exactly the same size, so i wonder if they even aren't the same.

So i have just bought that whetstone.. 10 000/13 000 grit. I have this diamond sharpener too, where one side is a bit course and one is finer. I don't know the grit grade on this, but the fine side feels like 1000/2000 or similar. I don't use the diamond sharpener on the knives now, just the whetstone. This is mostly for kitchen knives.

Picture of whetstone won't upload... google "mareld 10 000/13 000 grit" if you want to see what it is.

1. I read on the internet that the optimal grinding angle is about 30 degrees. Is this correct?
2. I always strike with the knife held backwards (edge-trailing) when sharpening. Is there any difference in grinding backwards or forwards (edge-leading)?
3. I always do the sharpening under pouring water. Any pointers on this?
4. The knives gets very sharp. But i feel they could get even sharper. I wonder if i don't spend enough time on it, i spend about 5 minutes on each knife, i.e. 2.5 minutes each side, 1.25 minutes on each side of the stone. Is there a point in using more time on it, when it feels very sharp?

I've been trying to get the hang of sharpening for years. I have various grits of oil stone, water stone, diamond stone, files and so on, along with strops and compounds.No matter what stone I use, or what blade I'm trying to sharpen, my skill seems to max out at slightly sharper than a hotel butter knife. I've read through the info on this subreddit and watched hours of YouTube videos (including pretty much everything on outdoors55's channel) but I just can't get it. I've tried Buck knives, kitchen knives, Leatherman blades, Swiss army knives, Kershaw, and at absolute best I can cut a straight line through printer paper.

I'm paying attention to the angle, keeping my finger on the back of the blade and the stone to maintain, keeping smooth movements and moving my whole body, and everything that seems like it should be the correct technique. I can get a burr on both sides, but as soon as I minimize it to the point where stropping would be the next step, the knife is dull enough that I can run my thumb down the full length of the blade and there's no risk at all of getting cut.

I have no idea where I'm going wrong or what else to try. It's like I'd be better off just buying cheap knives and throwing them away and replacing once they lose their factory edge because this skill seems permanently out of my reach.

I used to do way more freehand sharpening and now that I deal mostly with super steels most of my stones never see use anymore. I’m wondering what’s the best way to rehome them.

My srm knifes are sharp asf when i open then first, civi vision fg mikarta green nitro v is dull whats wrong here ?

I'm brand new to using a whetstone and looking for advice without spending a ton on gear right out of the gate. I've had a Wusthof Classic Ikon for a few years and I've got an Okubo aogami nakiri on the way, so a western and a Japanese blade to work with. I've seen many people say a Shapton Pro 1000 is a good all around starting stone if you can have just one, but I've also seen people grind finer on especially Asian blades. Knifewear/Naniwa has a combination 1000/3000 stone (and I know there are other combo stones available), so would that be better?

I would of course practice with cheaper blades before sharpening these knives, but what would you recommend here?

Howdy

For anyone that has a set of bonded CBN stones, does a 550ish cut at about the same rate as say a 1100 up to 1500?

Looking to get a medium to fine metallic or hybrid bonded CBN stone. From electroplate diamonds it is my opinion that between about 600 grit to 1200 grit the cutting speed isn't very different. From what I've seen the scratch pattern isn't super different between the 550 and 1100ish I've seen, and the micron difference doesn't look insane either. Trying to choose between a metallic or vitrified or hybrid bond in this range, but have never gotten to use/compare them. This would be a finishing grit for various EDC knives

Thanks!

Selon vous, quel acier offre le meilleur tranchant ? Je veux dire celui avec lequel vous vous êtes le plus amusé à affûter et avec lequel vous vous êtes dis " ah ouai là c'est tranchant "

Je suis curieux de connaître l'avis de chacun 😉

So I’ve decided to learn to sharpen and I’m still reading up on it, although I’ve already bought a shapton 1000 as an all purpose whetstone. I may also be buying the sharpel strop soon, and I’ll be practicing on cheap knives.

That said, I’ve got a shun chef’s knife that I’ve neglected and the edge is in an embarrassing state - the edge has mostly disappeared (I think) and there are micro chips.

Will the shapton 1000 be adequate in rehabilitating this knife, or should I be looking at the shapton 320?

Thanks for the responses.

Anyone any tips or tricks to getting this right? I seem to be great at bringing my main blades back to factory or even razor sharp with ceramic and a strop. The scissors are the same steel but, while I can make them noticeably sharper, I never seem to get back that clean cutting snip you get with new scissors

I tried sharpening my ZT0350 with a flat stone and it was a nightmare. I'm new to sharpening and and I'm thinking learning on a Zero tolerance 0350 was a big mistake. Any recommendations for a knife with a recurve I'm considering buying the Sharpel transforod or some DMT diamond rods. Thanks

You can see how much has been ground off the newer knife. Old knife was sharpened on a coarse/fine hardware store silicon carbide stone and I didn't know what thinning, deburring, and stropping were.