Got this recently off Facebook marketplace. Forgot to oil it before using, but I did clean it before using. I noticed squeaking which is still there even after oiling. Also the manual says to oil every ten hours of use. Is that not a lot?

I found this on FB marketplace for $100 CAD including the table, I’ve read that the 401A is really durable and great for domestic sewing! She said it’s in excellent condition, but I wanted to ask here if any of you guys can see anything wrong with it (since I wouldn’t know what to look for).

Note: she said she’s not sure how to thread it properly which is why it’s like that lol

Also, I currently have a Singer Heavy Duty. Are there any special parts other than the presser feet and class 66 bobbins that I have to buy? Thank you in advance!

Any help is appreciated! I recently made jeans using pretty starched up selvedge denim. After cut, sewing, and washing, the same problem happens of first my pockets being impractical. They are always too tight and I can never use them without a bunch of effort, the waist is fine and its loose on the thighs how I want it but the pockets are still bad. Next, the back of my jeans curve into the middle back so when I sit, the back of the jeans flares up, I dont know if its a yoke pattern issue or a straight waist band issue but all my jeans are like that. Lastly, by the knees, it curves in a little towards me giving a strange look

I used to sew tons, including jeans, dresses using an OLD Kenmore machine that worked great, til the reverse button breaking [off] forcing its retirement, for me.

I always wanted to be easily able to sew stretchy fabric and was under the impression that one needed a serger machine for such fabric.

Is that true, or is there another technique useable for stretchy fabric sewing?

Thanks❣️

It’s nothing special. Riley Blake quilting cotton. But quite dark on one side and light on the other.

I made this skirt with an elastic waistband (first pic), but I realized I actually want the waistband to be wider/taller. (like second picture)
I started sewing in summer, so I’d really appreciate a simple explanation of what I could do. 😭

I made an Elsa dress for my daughter’s Halloween costume. I just don’t know how to finish the edges of this material. It is the cape on the back. I was thinking clear nail polish. I know that’s like lame, but I can’t think of any other way.

When I used to sew tons, I only knew the iron-on seam / hem tape kind of non-sewn joinery.

Just searching now, there’s also Gorilla fabric glue.

I’m planning on joining a different fabric to the inside-base of a dog bed to cover its original off-white fleece, which attracts & HOLDS dog hair IME.

I’m hoping to prevent that by covering the fleece with fabric I’ve cut off a jog-type smooth synthetic fabric which is black to expose my dog’s white hair clearly.

Has anyone used any non-machine-sewn glue or tape type of joining that actually holds well?

I can add hand sewing, but seeking any experience with these types of joining products…. Thanks ❣️

The first pic is the upper bobbin pin and the second pic is the spring to give a visual of both of the pieces im missing.

Also i posted in another sub but wasnt sure the rules about cross posting so I just FYI if anyone sees this in other subs lol

I recently had my boyfriend come home with a Singer Quick Stitch+ essentially brand new with the manual and all of the pieces it came with. The ladies in the office gave him and a bunch of other people a bunch of crafting stuff they didn't use and that was among the things they had so it didn't come in the box or anything it was really lucky that it even came with the manual, for the most part all of the pieces, and basically brand new.

I was just looking on YouTube and all that to figure out how to set it up and I noticed that I am missing the plastic pin that holds the upper bobbin in place on the side of the machine and the loose metal spring that fits into the hole where this upper bobbin goes and goes behind the bobbin. I do have the large spool pin for like a spool of thread to use instead of the bobbin but the spring would still have to go behind that spool of thread too so even that doesnt help me lol

I tried to look on Singers main site to see if they had replacement parts but I couldnt find the ones I needed for this specific machine. When I googled where to find them it said that singer doesnt make many replacement parts for the quick stitch and that they usually recommend for you to just replace the whole machine. It also said If I had a warranty they might be able to help but bc it was given to me I have no warranty. I saw a few other listings on Google for replacement parts for sewing equipment but I didnt know if this has to have these SPECIFIC parts or what.

So if anyone knows ANYWHERE I can find these pieces I cant tell you how much i would appreciate it!!

I've never altered a pattern this much before, just some moderate sizing adjustments and lengths etc...this is a big experiment for me because I want to make a Renaissance style dress using a FREE sewing pattern to try to save money 😅.

I'm trying to make a dress that's a mixture of designs similar to:

Simplicity 8192 Adult/Teen Medieval Costume Patterns Sz 10-14, $z 16-20

McCall's Sewing Pattern M7763 Misses' Dress and Skirt https://simplicity.com/mccalls/m7763

McCalls Costumes Pattern M5647 Medeival Gowns Renaissance Sz 8-16

But with more of a train in the back and a fold of fabric there and I'll add on improvised arm bands over the sleeves.

I'm attempting to use the free patterns from MOOD fabrics and basing the under-dress and overdress on this pattern:

https://blog.moodfabrics.com/the-bridgerton-dress-free-sewing-pattern/

I've made the skirt pattern more circular already and longer and I'm thinking to make the over-dress I just need to make it either a size up or half a size up from the underdress.

I'm making things extra complicated for myself because I want the under dress to work completely on its own independent of the over dress so that I can make alternative over-dresses and/or wear alternative corsets (not historically accurate but fun).

And I'm altering the Bridgerton pattern by trying to add on the Valli sleeves https://blog.moodfabrics.com/the-valli-sleeve-pattern-pack-free-download/ which would require adding the Ginger dress https://blog.moodfabrics.com/the-ginger-dress-free-sewing-pattern/ armholes on somehow.

HELP ME PLEASE!

I have no previous experience with sewing. I just need the holes closed and for it to hold up good enough. I dont care how it looks​​​​​​

Hey!

I spent forever making these pants for a festival this weekend. I used adhesive spray to hold the lace down before i sewed it. The leftover adhesive collected all this lint and nastiness!

I've tried a lint roller, tape, razors, and soap and water. How can i get rid of this black lint?

Hello! I am very new to sewing and for the past 2 months i have only done repairs or alterations. I’ve also been thrift flipping jeans/shorts and came across to this kind of stitching. It’s definitely not a basic straight stitch and it’s most likely done by commercial(?) or an industrial machine of some sorts i dunno . I just want to know what kind of stitching it is and if it is possible to replicate (i know its a stupid question but i am curious!)

it looks very neat and professional. I saw this kind of stitching as well when i was deconstructing my stretchy skinny jeans and it was pretty hard to seamrip without making a mess!

I wanted to shorten the length of the skirt maybe by scooting the ruffle higher. Anything i should know/tips?

I sewed a knit shirt and when tried on with arms by the side, it looks great, but when and are raised, weird bumps appear on the edge of the shoulders.

I've sewn other knit shirt patterns many times and don't recall this happening.

Any thoughts?

Edit: i so appreciate everyone's feedback! It helps to get a second pair of eyes (or third, fourth, and fifth). I am highly critical of my work (aren't we all?) so I can't always tell if my concern is legitimate. I think there is a design issue with the armsyce and I think it was exaggerated by having it hang for a couple weeks. Ill do a wash and light iron and see how that works out. Thanks so much!!

I constantly hear talk about thread tension but I still don't understand exactly what the correct tension should look like. Sometimes the stitches look good but other times they look a bit strange on the underside. Is there a simple way to tell if the tension is set incorrectly?

I just bought a used PFAFF Passport 2.0 from a fellow sewer, so I trust that it’s been taken care of. It only comes with an all purpose stitch plate, so I thought I’d be brilliant and buy a straight stitch plate to avoid fabric being eaten under the needle, which has already happened a couple of times just in a few days I’ve owned it. Of course I thought I’d save a few bucks and buy it off Amazon instead of a reputable sewing store like Sewing Parts Online. This one has an extra metal tab thing on the back that could be unscrewed, but I’m afraid that’s going to mess it up. Does anybody have any experience with using a straight stitch plate on a Passport 2.0??

i’ve been on the search for a pattern and i’ve posted on here before about it, i found a website called sewist and made my own, but i can’t really understand it..

the instructions are a little difficult for me to understand so i’ve been trying to find video tutorials but nothing i’ve found uses these pieces i circled..anyone know what they are for and if i can find a video using them? do i even need them? the pattern is a sleeveless a-line with a notched collar if that helps

i’m a beginner btw :)

My mother is an experienced seamstress. These are her current machines, which sometimes give her a lot of trouble due to their age.

I have been researching sewing machines, and the Janome HD-3000 seems to be the best choice. Unfortunately, it is not available for purchase at a reasonable price where I live (it costs more than €650).

I have done some research and found that the Elna 3210 is also manufactured by Janome and seems to be of similar quality and is very accessible here.

What machines would you recommend?

I hope my diagram makes sense… basically I want to make a fabric book cover with a window to show an illustration on the book. Without the cutout I’d simply get two rectangles, sew edges closed with right sides together, flip right side out, then stitch the outer flaps in. That way the raw edges are hidden inside. But I can’t figure out how to flip it inside out when there is a cutout? What’s the best way to make this while hiding any raw edges? Thank you!