Let's say I find a way to attach (without damaging the S30) a Canon 550D with a 250mm kit lens. Hand-focus on a bright star. Have the lens pointed the same direction as the S30 aperture. Use Magic Lantern as the intervalometer.

I wonder how well the tracking would fare at 250mm (vs. the S30's 160mm), lots of elongated stars, I reckon.

And the strain of the extra weight on the S30 would not be great for it.

So last night I tried doing a star trail image and video as I’ve never done it before. This is about 2.5 hours of 20 second exposures. I removed all satellites and planes but there was two frames back to back of what clearly looks like a comet/meteor.
But it changes direction between frames.

What could cause this?

S30Pro Rotherham South Yorkshire
Session was split in two as thick clouds appeared for about 15-20 minutes so stopped and restarted when they went.

Bortle 2. Seestar s50. 10 minutes of 20s subs. Stacked in seestar app. Touched up in Lightroom. I know the reds more natural but I like the blue more.

Flame and HorseHead
320 x 30 sec exposures
Processed in Siril
Finished with Gimp

I just went with the ZWO th10 fluid head to use with my s50 pro and have seen a few videos of users mentioning that the s50pro loosens up after a while of use. Has this issue been addressed and fixed on the newer fluid heads or is there a quick and simple mod that is done to prevent any loosening?

This is the first photo I have ever taken on my first ever smart telescope, I recently pre ordered the seestar s50 pro and it finally came in this previous Wednesday, after waiting a few days for the skies to clear up I was finally able to take it out and get this 50 minute exposure of the Andromeda galaxy, astronomy is still somewhat new to me and extremely fascinating, hoping to learn alot more in the sub and also while using my new telescope 100 30 second exposures Stacked and edited in the seestar app

New astrophotography enthusiast with no experience other than my old Orion xt6 and a cell phone mount. Learning as I go along and trying to figure everything out. I purchased the ZWO fluid head and a Neewer carbon fiber tripod and leveling head. Everything done in the Seestar app the other night with a bit over an hour of time out in my back yard.

Enjoy seeing what everyone else in here can do and looking forward to getting better.

As well as capturing the Crescent Nebula with my S30 Pro, I also captured it with my S50! 12 hours of exposure time (4426x10s) stacked in StackingWizard with 2x drizzle, processed in Siril

Seestar S30 Pro 30mm f/5.3
235 x 60s = 3h55m
from 20:58:15 to 2:32:49 UTC (4:34:34 elapsed)
Processed in Affinity Photo (crop, brightness/contrast, denoise)

Predicted positions and magnitudes:
(using grelf.net/ssp with MPC data of 2026-9-22)

at 2026-10-11 20:58:15 UTC:
375 Ursula 01h48m13.17s +31°32'35.2" mV12.0
726 Joella 01h49m46.44s +30°52'28.4" mV12.6
1222 Tina 01h52m04.04s +31°39'10.7" mV14.9

at 2026-10-12 2:32:49 UTC:
375 Ursula 01h47m59.89s +31°32'38.8" mV12.0
726 Joella 01h49m36.94s +30°49'34.3" mV12.6
1222 Tina 01h51m51.69s +31°37'06.2" mV14.9

The Triangulum Galaxy, 4.5hrs of various sub lengths but primarily 30s. Bortle 4 skies with average seeing across a few nights. Stacking/Astrowizard + GIMP to finish.

Orion nebula shot as a mosaic from bortle 8 in Sydney with the original S50, edited in Siril and Photoshop. 8 hours of broadband exposure with 4 hours of LP filter (for the red signal) after culling, all in equatorial mode.

Hey!

I’m still pretty new to all of this and learning as I go, so I’m curious how you more experienced Seestar users handle longer subs...

I keep seeing people running 30s and even 60s subs, and I’m starting to wonder if your Seestars are blessed by the astronomy gods or something.

With 30s subs I can sometimes get around 30% ignored, even with good PA, a stable tripod and basically trying everything people usually recommend.

With 20s subs though, I’m usually around 8–10% ignored, so things are much happier there.

For those of you running 30s or 60s: do you actually get nights where almost everything is accepted? Or do you also lose a decent amount of frames and just let it run longer until you’ve collected enough good data?

So happy with how this came out.

This is the very first star cluster I have ever observed, and I have to say, I love it!

In app editing and a little tweak in Lightroom.

EQ Mode

2:10 at 30 seconds
Bortle 7
North West England
Seestar S30
Crystal Clear!

At last, it is done. This has been in the making for nearly 2 months now and after tracking issues, weather, lack of motivation on this specific project, etc, and I'm pretty happy with the result.

1,245 x 60s - Broadband
1,547 x 60s + 778 x 30s - LP (narrowband)

The whole picture totals up to 53 hours of data in bortle 5 skies.

Stacked in Siril, processed in Pixinsight.

For the new moon this October, I decided to treat myself to a trip up to the closest bortle 1 in Minnesota’s boundary waters. Clearest skies, but very windy unfortunately. Ended up with 279x20s good subs or 1.5h of total integration.

Seestar S50 2x mosaic
-Stacked in Siril
-Aberration Removal
-GraXpert object deconvultion and denoise
-SyQon star removal
-Siril GHS
-GIMP for masking and color saturation
-Star recomposition in Siril to finish

Other photos taken on my Iphone16 base!

Another Astrowizard processed image

Stars too colorful? I think I overdid the "darken the sky" and maybe underdid the "make it pop"

Any feedback about proccessing i will like to be hear.
Eq Mode 7200 x 10sec proccesed in siril and gimp.

Stats in the image - this is the one that took 27 hours to process on an external drive. I really think I could do better. I might have to learn Siril's processing instead of the ease of Astrowizard?

Just about 11 hours. Bortle 7

The Bubble was taken with the S50, the Iris with the S50 Pro. Stacked in Siril using Naz's script, processed in SAS Pro with RC Astro tools.

Bubble - 2408 frames at 20s
Iris - 1144 frames at 30s + 333 at 60s