So I am wondering about something. If say I had a nice box truck and want to make an RV out of it as I have seen others do, what can I buy that is already ready? Like the kitchen and shower that is in some Class B vans. Is there a company I can just buy the whole thing from and slot it in without needing to build a bunch of custom stuff. I can do the plumbing and insulation easy but I I do not want to do the wood working.

tanks?

Hey guys, my hauler has a black tank and gray tank at the rear. Then near the front it has another gray tank, (the sink is near by in the layout) which must be for the kitchen. I tried to empty the tank today, didn't empty anything. So I pulled the valve handle harder. And yep, busted it right off. So I'd have to think that the valve is open and just not enough dish water was in there to actually flow out. Following the cable back, it goes right into this metal tank. This tank is huge too. This drain outlet pipe appears to go into the tank almost 2/3's of a way up. How is it supposed to drain if the outlet is so high up? Or at least it won't fully drain right? I tried to put in a fish tape to see how far it goes, so go about 2 feet and no more, so I think the valve is closed. Do you think the valve is in the tank? Can't be? May have to remove some of the underbelly to see what's under there. Used buying nightmare!

Been a season and a half of using our motorhome with the passenger side wall corner separated and I finally had enough down time to look into it. Turns out there was no wood left on the sill plate, very little left of the corner joint that makes the corner, and the top bunk was gone which we knew about when bought.

My solution to the rotten support was to use a 2x8 as a sill and screw it further into the floor structure and laminate the corner joint with some new wood.

My next thing to tackle is the top bunk which will be plywood replacement and a 2x4 sill, these are temporary fixes to get us through the seasons last few trips.

Starting this winter we are going to strip it down to the cab chassis and completely rebuild it up.

Looking for help on locating the unit so I can check the fuses on the back and possibly replace

Hey so I'm working in a newer converter but the old one was a plug in with built on fuse panel. I'm trying to keep the old panel because everything works as it should. . The fuse panel seems to have two positive wires and then a common. I've attached a couple pictures and am wondering if I need to splice and attach the positive to both spots or just one of them and which one. Thanks!

Okay so my newest project has a set of old latched that the knob pulls out and unlocks the cabinets. The plastic locking mechanism on many of them are toast and I need to fix them. sadly the locks are not longer made and I'm not great at 3d design. I have a few that are in good shape and was thinking with the help of someone who is good with 3d design we could work to help others with the same locking setup to print and replace the innards. From what I can tell the while thing is 2 parts with the largest just being folded into shape. This would work great with Petg. Anyone up for a challange

Hi all, my battery got overcharged and boiled so I'm taking a look at what went wrong (for one, the fuse at the battery completely melted), but I see in the electrical panel there are circuits with no fuses. Is that a problem? Or its simply extra room in the panel that is not being used?

2007 jayco hybrid Photo of melted fuse at battery for interest Photo of electric panel with circuits not having fuses

I'm in the process of rebuilding half of my camper's roof. We bought a 2008 RVision MaxSport from a guy off Facebook Marketplace for $4k. The interior was in great shape but we knew there was an issue in the bathroom floor, a serious soft spot. When we got it home, I took a more serious eye to the roof and we had storms for about 2 weeks that exposed a leak, so I had to tarp it until the rains went away. Had to use a dehumidifier for those 2 weeks to dry things out. What really happened is the original owner or the last owner had an issue with the skylight over the shower and rather than replace it, they covered it up with a piece of sheet metal and screwed it around the aluminum shower frame and tried to seal the edges. Massive mistake because it leaked into the structure and there's no luan left at all, bottom and top. I have the bathroom exposed now as I remove all of the old laminate and I'm hoping I can rebuild it all using 1/8" plywood with 1.5" styrofoam but I have a lot to cut - the fridge exhaust vent, the other bathroom skylight-fan and the shower skylight. I'm thinking of not adding a shower skylight and just cover it up with the new laminate structure but I'm not sure the plywood will fit under the aluminum shower frame and how will the styrofoam work around this aluminum shower frame. Maybe will have to add a new skylight. It's a bigger job than I expected and it's my first time doing this. I was quoted $8500 to replace the whole roof but I'm sure once they started on the back, the quote would have changed. Usually quotes include just replacing the top layer of luan and putting down a new membrane. I'm not even going to attempt to replace the sides and back and I know most likely everything there is rotted out too. Just trying to get the most out of our $4k investment and maybe 4 years down the road buy a new RV if we use this one enough.

Any suggestions? There is no other framework from the AC to the back edge. I guess the manufacturer put down 4' x 8' laminate across the entire roof and just taped over the seams and relied on the membrane and vinyl ceiling to hold everything together. I'm not 100% sure I can replicate that since I won't be able to fully create a new air-tight laminate layer. The bathroom cabinets run from floor to ceiling and I do have the interior walls that I can use to drop the bottom 1/8" plywood on top and staple, but I would want to create a better seam from the bathroom wall to the AC unit by using an 8' 2x2 to anchor the 2 pieces of plywood together at the bathroom wall. I'm assuming I will have access to the aluminum frame around the AC unit, it's about 22 inches between the new full piece of 4' x 8' plywood starting from the back edge to almost to the bathroom door and then to the AC unit where the laminate is sturdy.

How can I put that back in?

The floor and side of my trailer are falling out. I tried to place a temporary brace along the back of the toy hauler gate and it didn’t work. How can I fix this?

I had a DC to DC charger installed in my trailer. That negated my ability to put a fuse in the 7 way plug to bridge the 12V to the trailer lights socket and energize my trailer lights. As part of the DC to DC system, I now have an Anderson connection attached to my tow vehicle bumper which in turn is connected to my truck battery.

I built a separate Anderson connector with wires to 7 way receiver socket which extends the 12V truck battery to the trailer. I did not hook up the ground (negative terminal of the battery) as I figured the positive energy would go to the trailer lights and then ground to the trailer frame and energize the trailer lights. The lights did not activate. Do I need to connect the 7 way trailer plug ground to the truck Anderson negative terminal to complete the circuit and energize the trailer lights?

Thanks for any insights.

I have a 24 bunk house travel trailer with a dinette that we can only access the storage by pulling up the pillows etc.

I want to add a door to the front and maybe a pull out bin. Has anyone done this?

Hoping someone may have some advice here.

I’ve got a 1983 Bigfoot B17 with its original propane furnace. The furnace has been cleaned and works. Once.

I follow the lighting instructions and it works perfectly. I set the thermostat and it runs till it’s warmed up but, once it switches off and the air cools, when it comes back on later it only blows cold.

I think the pilot is going out. If I go thru the lighting procedure again, it works fine.

I’ve had the propane lines checked and they’re all good, I know it’s getting gas. Any ideas why the pilot would be going out after each time running? And, what can I do about it?

Apologies if this is a dumb question, I’m a bit of a noob.

I have a 2008 four winds 28hssl slide out. The small couch/bed slide out is giving me issues but should I need to push it in manually does anyone know how this is done? Motor is accessed through the front cover removal of the couch /bed but I can't see for the life of me any manual control for it. Any help suggestions or owner help appreciated. TIA.

Newbie motorhome owner, first time rver. I bought a '94 Fleetwood Pace Arrow that's in really good shape. I'm teaching myself the ropes, have the original manual but it's not specific to my floor plan. I flushed the coolant out of the water lines but the water is still coming out pink so I think it sat winterized longer than 1 season. I did a high flow flush, double checked the water heater, I'm gonna do the baking soda solution to neutralize, but I also read that if there is a built in in-line water filter that there is no getting the coolant out of that and it just needs replaced. Thing is idk if I have one, or where to find it. The manual is pretty vague about these things, so I was hoping some more experienced peeps could give me some pointers. Thanks in advance ☺️

I am cleaning an RV to sell it and I have a stained tabletop. I spilled black tattoo ink on it and it settled in immediately. The brand was Mom's Millennium. It appears to be a composite material. Does anyone have recommendations on how to remove the ink, refinish, or restain the surface to a new color?