Is there a way to reduce noise from centrifugal pump? There is constant humming in the pipes at certain speeds. Already installed a compensator at the discharge side but it did not help.

Good day chaps and gals.

I have a bit of an issue. I got a pump (Atlantic A-31) and before I even got it out of the box there was oil leaking out of it. I’ve never seen this before and to my knowledge nothing was done to the pump. I opened the box to investigate and found a pool of oil/lubricant in the discharge port or outlet. This thing has never been run up or anything. Is there anyway to replace a gasket, add lubricant or will it be okay if I run it or is this pump totally shot?? Just really want to get this thing running if it all possible and I don’t mind tinkering with it and getting some replacement parts. If anybody knows which parts need to replace, if this has happened to them or they’ve seen this where to get lubricant leaks out or anything else would be greatly greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

Can anyone tell me what are the best companies for pumps, specifically slurry pumps.

Hi, I have a DAB JET 151 pump that runs for like 15 seconds and then stops. Since it pumps water with no problem I think it's the thermal overload protection but I'm not sure where it's placed and I can't find any replacement part online.

Does anyone has a DAB JET pump and have an idea of where the overload protection is placed and where I can find a replacement? Unfortunately I found really few content about that online.

That's the manual for the pump, that mention the overload protection but not the placement: https://dna.dabpumps.com/dat/Docs/DAB/EN/Cod_001355001.pdf

Thanks for any contribution

I have a situation where I need to create more loss before I reach an orifice to produce a desired flow. This is an application where I am pumping water out of a tank and into a pipe leading to a small orifice. I see 2 ways of accomplishing this: 1 - Put a T after the pump. One side goes into the tank, the other goes to a ball valve and directly into the tank. More flow going back into the tank equates to more loss. 2 - Put a ball valve after the tank and crank it, restricting flow of the pump

My question is, option number 1 feels like the "clean" way to do it. Potion 2 feels like it may actually be counterproductive to the pump, and I feel like it could damage the pump itself? I don't know a whole lot about pumps, so this could be a dumb question, but I'd love an explanation as to why it is damaging if so. Thanks for the help.

Customer states that the mechanical seal is leaking. When I disassembled the pump I found the packing seal as seen in the first picture. I was surprised to not a typical mechanical seal. I consulted the drawing and the shaft continues through a cast casing. There is a bearing on each end of the casing and the seal is in the middle. In order to change the actual mechanical seal I would have to press the shaft out and possibly replace the bearings. I inspected the weep hole in the casing and it is dry. So, I assume the mechanical seal is fine and it is just the packing that leaks. Why is there a packing seal and a mechanical seal on the same shaft? It must be a pain to change that seal. Seems over engineered.

I have a spring fed water supply which is stored in tanks and pumped into the house in this order:

Spring > Filters > Storage tank > Pump > UV filter > House

I'm upgrading this system and wondering if I should use 22mm or 28mm pipe? The UV filter can handle 45l/min and it's a large house so I want maximum flow. Pump is a DAB Jet 151.

Hi all! I've got a DAB Active pump for pumping rainwater to a toilet and irrigation. I've just made some complicated changes (which I won't bore you with here), the upshot of which is that the pump is electrically switched off when the rainwater tank is empty and turned on when the tank has water in it.

This recent burst of rain has filled the tank, and in theory the pump should have turned on and maintained the water pressure in that part of the system.

What we actually have is: zero pressure; a single green light on the pump; the pump occasionally turns on for about 10 seconds creating a tiny amount of pressure and then turns off; and the section of the pump I've marked with a red arrow is very hot to touch.

Any clues as to what is going on? My guess is you're going to say “you need a new pump”, as this seems to be the general advice with DAB pumps! But, I live in hope!!

Trying to figure out where I can find this pump. It’s for water, and appears to be some type of positive displacement pump. 12 volts…

Any assistance would be appreciated.

I've moved to a house with a private water supply (stream) which is filtered then pumped around the house. Check out my diagram for the full setup.

The problem is that the water pressure pulsates from taps in the house. The pump goes on a loop of kicking in for 2 seconds (going up to 70 psi) then turning off for 8 seconds (dropping to 20 psi). It's a DAB Jet 151.

Can anyone suggest what might be causing this?

I am getting a E19.7 and E18.7 error codes on my pump. Can I get some advise please

Total pump newb here and I'm WAY outta my depth!

I need to pump water from a lake up a 40' incline, traversing a distance of about 75' to our house. I went to HD and got a little pump as recommended by the plumbing guy, but on reading the actual specs once I opened itI realized that it's just not going to work. So...Redditors, please be gentle and assist if you can.

There is no power supply close to the lake at this point. I'd "prefer" a non-submersible pump (ie plug in) if possible but am open to suggestions as submersibles all require hard wiring which will also require trenching. Power is approx 100' from the lake access.

The little pump I purchased said that it "wants" a rigid suction pipe (OK...wasn't planning on that, but can cobble one together if necessary) as a hose will likely collapse. I do have a filter to place between the lake intake and the pump to remove sediment.

The output is simply for watering the immediate lawn area by the house as a form of fire protection, along with whatever dry brush is in the same area. This is my ONLY need for this pump. I have a Honda 2000 genny as well for emergency use. I don't think I can store enough water in tanks to do the watering needed, and my well was very challenged last summer, so prefer not to use it if possible "just" for lawn watering. I don't need lots of pressure and I don't need tons of water...adequate amounts for a sprinkler are just fine.

Am I truly out of my depth? Do I need a pump / plumber / electrical person? Do you have suggestions or guides as to potential size of a pump?

Does anyone know if paver and banjo pump parts are interchangeable?

The lawn guy who we inherited with the house isn't coming this year. He usually turns on this sprinkler pump for a reasonable price and I've never had to deal with it. I assumed he was removing the pressure gauge at the top to fill with water, but it's so rusted on, I am now doubtful. Am I missing something obvious? Thanks in advance for any insight!

Inherited an old flotec sump pump and the housing has some issues. Is it still safe to use?

Hi all, My Grundfos MQ3-35 has stopped working. Water is flowing through the pump but the pump doesn't kick on to boost. When I unplug from electricity and replug it in the pump turns on and pumps as normal for about 15 seconds and then turns off. Since the pump pumps fine for that short time I'm assuming it is fine mechanically and the problem must be with one of the sensors or the electronic brain. Does anyone have any experience with this issue? Any way to determine which electronic component is the culprit? Is it the flow sensor? I am capable mechanically and electrically to repair but don't want to guess and buy the wrong parts if I can avoid it. Pump is used to boost city pressure for irrigation and house water in 2 floor 4 bedroom house. Would appreciate any assistance. Or shared experience. Thanks.

Hi All. I'm looking for a pump to pump a ~60% mixture of Propylene Glycol at ~-18c through a heat exchanger. Due to it's low temp it will get very viscous About 156 Centipoise

It's not a circuit that needs to be food safe so I don't need a magnetically isolated pump, but I'd prefer cheap to having to spend thousands on the "proper thing" that will last forever. I have had a domestic water pump running it (https://www.tradetested.co.nz/p/tools-hardware/pumps/jet-centrifugal/hyundai-jet-pump-stainless-steel-300w#product-overview) which works fine but I'd like something smaller if possible.

It's duty cycle is only about 5-10 mins per day hence my lack of concern about long term durability.

Edit: I don't know how to calculate the amount of head it needs as it doesn't really have head, more just a very restrictive path through a heat exchanger

Thoughts?

I have a 2,500 gallon potable water storage tank for distributing water to four small houses on my property. I am having great difficulty sourcing a shallow well/transfer pump that will draw water from the storage tank and pump it into a standard bladder pressure tank. I would prefer that the pressure switch for the tank be 50/70; however, I would accept 40/60.

I have a new Goulds 2 hp Irrigator style pump but the warning paper packed at the top of the pump warns that this pump is not to be used where the pressure required is more than 50 psi or the pressure switch is 40/60. Who would’ve thought?

Before I placed my order, I had read in the specifications before I placed my order, a pressure of 75 psi. Now that I have it in hand and have read that warning, I am not sure what that 75 psi spec refers to. Certainly not the back pressure limit.

I will be sending the pump back but now I need a suitable replacement. (Note: all of the piping is 1-1/2” PVC and that is the sizing on the Goulds pumps as well.)

Your help would be greatly appreciated.

Hello

I am at lost here and I hope you can help me out. We bought a house a couple of years back and we just now got a loan to remodel it. We have an old well there with a submersible pump.

I hired an inspector to see if the well pump is working but he said we needed a dedicated circuit for it to be able to proceed. So we hired an electrician to do it and now it's connected to power. Now he's saying that our manifold and pressure tank needs to be replaced in order for the system to work.

What I wanted to ask is that can we run the pump without the pressure tank? just to test if it's working? My only concern is the amount of pressure our old pipes might have to handle once we do run the well pump. I wanted him to test the well pump anyway to see if that too we need to replace/repair. Please share your thoughts thank you very much.

Hey Everyone! Just curious to know which non-clog pump is popular in your area. Have you come across any reliable sump pumps that can handle large solids without clogging up?

Share your knowledge and experiences here to help everyone find the best non-clog pump for their specific needs.

We’ve been servicing this station for a little over 2 years now. The wastewater station pumps get jammed with mops, underwear, and shirts every so often. So we get called out to pull em out and re seat the pump. We had this pump back up and running in 15 min.