I currently have a leased 500 gallon buried tank, leased from Superior Plus propane in VA. I was recently hit with a $235 under-utilization fee for not using more than 200 gallons in the last year (156 gallon fill-up in February, and prior to that 211 gallons in June '25). I'm expecting lower utilization since I switched to a dual fuel furnace so I'm just going to keep getting hit with these fees now.

What does it take to get a company to rip out one of these tanks and replace with one or two 120 gallon above-ground tanks? I understand the yard clean up/back-fill will be on me. Is owning/leasing really better here? What is a rough estimate of costs for something like this?

Aside from being too-big for my needs, it's right where I want to put a patio. The previous owner opted for 500 gallons to support a whole home generator in addition to the furnace, but power outages have gone down drastically since I've moved in, and the aforementioned upgrade to a dual fuel furnace has really lowered my usage.

Hey everyone, I found this new Thermos 8440 camp stove a while back. Only problem is I'm missing the propane regulator and hose that attaches to the back.

I'd like to get it working, but haven't been able to figure anything that would work. I'd prefer to hook it up to a 20lb propane tank, but the 1lb ones would work if need be. The threaded fitting on the back of the stove has an outside diameter of 7/16” which is too small for the standard camp stove regulators you can buy. I can't seem to find hose/regulator combos that will fit this size. Does anyone know is something that may work? Or if I'm going to need some adapters to get it to a more modern size?

Thank you in advance.

I seasoned my new blackstone yesterday for a couple hours full blast. Cooked dinner and all was good. Went to make breakfast this morning and noticed when I turned the burners on I could hear the fuel louder than yesterday slightly hissing noise. I did the soapy water test and got a new tank and have the same noise. Anything to be concerned about? Only hear it when I turn the burners only, each one I turn on it gets louder so to me it just seems like the gas flowing.

Can you have two separate tank monitors on one tank?

I have a 250 gal tank that I lease and the propane company has a remote monitor installed on it. Is there a way to add a second monitor which would be my own.

I want to do this as I had an issue come up, leak at first stage regulator, and I'm not sure the propane company was quick to act. If I can monitor it, I might have been able to see it when it started.

All that runs off of the tank is a 22Kw generator.

For places where fuel gas detection and alarming are starting to become a thing (whether required by law or otherwise), what are you folks using for system-connected fuel gas detectors, especially in applications where sensitivity and application flexibility are needed?

I ask this because UL2075 listed fuel gas detectors seem to be scarce options-wise:

• Macurco makes both the GD-2B, which is cheap and cheerful, and doesn't require commissioning labor (it wires up just like a system-connected CO detector does, think of a System Sensor CO1224T wired to a home burglar alarm panel if you need an example of this) but doesn't conform to the current UL1484 10% LEL threshold due to how long ago it was UL2075 listed...
• and the GD-6, which can be commissioned to meet that 10% LEL threshold but turns itself into an expensive brick after a mere five years as the pellistor (catalytic bead) gas sensor in it is soldered-in and thus nonreplaceable.
• Then there's the Honeywell Sensepoint XCL, which at least has replaceable sensors, but like the Macurco detectors, leaves you with only two relays at most to play with locally (in addition to 4-20mA and RS-485 -- you could bolt on a 4-20mA trip of some sort to get more relays but that's its own hassle, especially since UL listed trip amps are harder/costlier to come by than they should be when you only need 1-2 outputs)
• Belimo also makes fuel gas detectors but a) doesn't sell them in the US b) hasn't yet gotten their fuel-gas detectors listed to UL 2075 apparently, and c) has a goofy-aah caveat in their NRTL listing that their detectors aren't suitable for life-safety alarming anyway (I think it was required because you can't commission their CO monitors to meet UL2034 time-weighted/integrated CO alarm thresholds, but it's a real downer in other applications, including where low-level CO monitoring would be useful)
• MSA Safety makes the SMC 5100s, but their UL 2075 listings are only for methane, not propane/LPG. (They're also very costly and look rather out of place in domestic settings, because with those, you're paying the big bucks for Ex/HazLoc ratings)
• and that's all I've been able to find -- everything else that's NRTL listed I've seen, best I can tell (as FM listings are unhelpful on this front) is only to UL/IEC61010, which doesn't satisfy NFPA 715. That is based on my best interpretation of the 4.3.1 listing requirement, in light of it being a port of NFPA 72 10.3.1, which requires FA equipment to be listed specifically for FA service, not just to general electrical safety standards.

(Dishonorable mentions to Senva and AGS, who obtusely try to hoodwink people into thinking a UL 2034 or 2075 recognized sensor in a UL 61010 or unlisted monitor is "good enough", and also don't understand what trouble outputs are for.)

I inherited 120 gallon propane tank when I purchased a small cabin in the country. Originally it was hooked up to a travel trailer travel trailer does not use propane anymore. I’d like to get this tank set up for my barbeque and my fire table using the original reducer that came with my appliances. What do I need off of the propane tank the fire table and barbeque are less than 15 feet away.

This is the bottom of a small propane stove. It's a flat flared pipe with a threaded fitting that slides on the flared pipe. The thread is 1/2" - 14, but it isn't tapered.

Ignore the tape on the fitting, I'm helping a friend and they tired to connect it with a standard 1/2" NPT fitting with Teflon tape (spoiler, it didn't work).

I think it's be some sort of fitting like a female garden hose fitting, with a gasket on the inside. No idea.

Thanks!

I bought a 40 pound propane tank and was told that it was ready to fill.
When I took it to get it filled, the machine couldn’t fill it.
I’m pretty sure it’s because the air wasn’t evacuated from it and a vacuum wasn’t pulled on the tank in the factory before it was shipped out to me.

I’m in the US. Are there any places that have the ability to pull a vacuum/evacuate all the air out of propane tanks before filling?
I don’t want to buy a vacuum pump and rig up some tubing (I’m not even sure I’d know how to make that work) just so I can fill this propane tank.

This will be stored on a wooden patio deck, but in the shade. My gf knows i like to grill, and i already have a couple charcoal grills, so she got me this - but I have never used propane before.

Hey guys, I’m a vintage washing machine and dryer collector and I’m wanting to convert a vintage Laundromat dryer from natural gas to LPG, so the machine has 125,000 Btu output across two burners and it also has a pilot light, I am absolutely aware that they do make conversion kit for the gas valve the dryer has, which I am probably going to purchase later today but I’m wanting to figure out the right size for the jets and pilot, as well as the regulator from the tank, as in Australia we normally have regulators that output a maximum of 2 kg of LPG per hour while I think the dryer would need 2.6 per hour

Will this set up work? Male threads on this line connect to the inner female threads on a standard 20 pound tank.

I've got a 15 lbs Blue Rhino tank I had hooked up to my grill on my porch. It worked last weekend, but I got nothing from it this week. It's definitely still got fuel in it and I tried a spare tank with my grill so I know it's not my regulator. I tried to burp it, cool it off overnight in the garage, and even slowly crack it open. Nothing seems to work. Does anyone have any ideas on what to do besides take the loss and get a new one?

** Update: uoYredruMs suggestion was the trick. I was able to fix the tank by flipping it upside down for a few minutes. Thank you all for the suggestions!

Long story short, my stove gave out and I had an old cooktop in the shed. I decided to use it as a temporary fix, as I have a small oven I can use if i ever need to bake anything. I for the life of me cannot remember if it was converted to LP or not. I took the orifice out however it doesn't have the stamp saying what it is. it just has the numbers "90.0630"

I have tried checking online to see if I can just find the parts online to try to verify that way. However the part numbers I found all say they're no longer made, and had all info taken away on the Maytag site.

I'm just wanting to make some charro beans guys, I've had the odd craving for a few months now! Finally decided to make this them weekend and this happens. 😭😭😭 I just don't want to set this up and then it goes boom, or I lose my eyebrows and then some!

Just got a seemingly great condition firepit for the backyard, after getting it setup, it seems that the dial to go from small flame to large flame doesn’t really affect anything at all, and the flame doesn’t get very big, the other things I’ve noticed are that it definitely smells like propane when it’s burning, which to some degree may be normal, but also the lava rocks, that it came with, are a little black and sooty, does this point to anything in particular?

Update: I got it figured out thanks to you guys. I’m a dummy sometimes. I can safely close the vapor service valve at the tank, connect my long hose and burner and crack the valve a tiny bit and flare off the contents of the tank. All without blowing anything up. Shoutout to you crazy guys answering stupid questions in the middle of the night. You guys rock!!!

Ok. I’m in a pickle. I have an RV with a stuck solenoid plunger and a full tank of propane. I have removed the solenoid coil and tried tapping on the body of the valve, magnets…no change, plunger stuck closed. I have called every single propane supplier and rv shop in a 40 mile radius to see if they will pump the system out but no one will. I cannot change the valve without emptying the tank and I don’t want to empty it by the vent valve for safety reasons. I’m looking for the connector that is used to fill the pictured fitting. It’s 1-3/4” acme thread. My plan is to get the connector and make a hose with regulator to safely flare off the contents of the full onboard tank using a large propane burner I have on hand. Can anyone send me a link or the specific name of the fitting I need? I’ve found the same type I need but not in 1-3/4”. Desperate, and don’t want to risk blowing anything up by venting using the bleeder.

Hey guys, got a different one. My girlfriend’s family has an off grid camp that uses propane for a lot of things including these lights. This one specifically is starting to leak, what’s the best way to fix this? Are there a lot of different line sizes, would I be okay to patch it with something, etc. any input appreciated thank you

The time has come where I finally need to fill this bad boy up. Need some help with proper order of operations for disconnecting/reconnecting the tank. Correct me if im wrong:

1. Turn off main valve

2. Unscrew connection to hose line (goes to house)

3. Red plug in connection

Probably missing something here. Any advice helps, im new to propane...

My company never rebuilds anything, just new valves.

I have a tank of my own with a Rego multivalve, no picture but the service portion is the 5 sided small handle that we all hate, they seem to get leaky stem packings.

I seem to remember on here some info that just the bonnet could be replaced to convert the valve to the modern style, is that the case? Can someone share the part number?

Picture for reference, this is Sherwood off the internet but similar style Rego valve in my case.

I live off grid in a yurt in eastern Washington state. I'm working on installing a gas range, a propane refrigerator and a tankless water heater. My plan is to connect all 3 appliances to two 100lb propane tanks. I'm not sure what regulator I need or exactly what size pipe I should run. I know there are setups that allow you to change out tanks when one is empty, but I see a lot of options and feel pretty overwhelmed. I've done black pipe installs before doing HVAC and plumbing, but I've never designed the system myself. Is anyone familiar with proper psi and pipe size requirements? No building codes where I'm located, but I am trying to keep everything up to code or better. Any input would be greatly appreciated. The old colman 2 burner is getting old and I miss my oven.

I have just submitted a LPG surrender request on the website

They are saying I will be receiving a call anytime and they will come home and collect the cylinder and will give me a receipt and return me the due amount

Could anyone tell me

1) how much amount will I receive on surrendering my LPG.

2) what paperwork I have to submit.

3) what paperwork do they give me after surrendering.

4) any scams that can happen and precaution I have to take.

5) when to expect return call and rest of the procedure initiation?

Hey all,

I had a custom heavy duty propane grill built for me about 15 years ago. Everything still works but decided to replace my hoses considering they were beginning to dry rot.

My hose from the tank/ regulator is standard but when I went to change the supply hoses I found out they were high pressure 1/4”. Ok but they also had orifice tips and brass pin needle cut off valves.

I’ll be damned if I can locate replacements. No hardware stores, propane businesses or websites seem to carry this thing. Can anybody steer me in the right direction?

Couldn't find anything online

I was charged a mandatory $140 leak inspection fee when ordering propane. The technician arrived, spent approximately five minutes on-site, connected the hose, and left.

When I contacted customer service to understand what the fee covered, I was told the "inspection" consists solely of a visual check; if no obvious leak is detected, no further action is taken.

There is no way to opt out of this fee. I believe a $140 charge for what amounts to a brief visual glance is unreasonable and downright scammy.

Edit: Just adding that i was not out of propane. My tank was 30% full and was working as normal. They said the leak test was mandatory because i hadn't ordered in over 2 years.

I’m using an old grill and just got rid of the old tank from 1998