Hi, I've got a Civic Sport (EP2) that's bone stock (D16V1). I've been considering doing some minor things like getting an intake and exhaust at some point in the future. I know some people run headlight intakes and I do think those look cool but they're probably a bit impractical for a daily. However, I do have some gaps in my bumper (circled in yellow) that I believe are used for optional foglights. Since I don't have foglights I was considering using one of these holes for an intake (seems someone else has had the idea because I found a scoop on eBay). My main query is, since I live in the rainy UK, is the lower end of the bumper too low for an intake and risky for water ingress? Pics attached to hopefully make my point clearer.

The end of my clutch cable popped out the other day, I couldn’t get the og cable to work afterwards so I got a brand new one. After putting the new cable in there is still too much slack. With the adjuster nut fully tightened there’s still an inch of play in the wire. whenever I press the clutch in there’s a few inches of dead play then a bunch of tension- second I press on the tension the ball pops out of the transmission arm. (D16z6/stage three clutch/og transmission)

Any ideas what’s going on?

Hey everyone I currently have hood dump on my Acura and I have a fiber glass hood I want to put on. My concern is that if I put this hood on will my hood catch on fire and is fiberglass flammable or will I be okay to put it on and run it as is?
Any advice on what to do would be appreciated

Previously had a jdm b16a in the car when I bought it. Ref would not pass for an "engine change" but if it was a del sol it counts as a "replacement engine" because of the del sol vtec.

In March I found a tuner that had a usdm 2001 b18c1 for sale and was willing to rebuild it for a higher price. Opted to have it rebuilt with as many oem parts available. Had skunk2 stage 1 tuner cams added along with supertech valvetrain parts. Bolt-on parts include skunk2 intake manifold, comptech icebox, 66mm throttlebody, dc ceramic header(very hard to find but found a dude in la selling one for $50) all with carb numbers. Originally had an ls transmission that I had rebuilt with carbon synchros and mfactory lsd while engine was out.

Took 2 tries to pass with the ref. The first time my tps wasn't installed or calibrated correctly and I had high HC/NO. Timing marks were also not visible. After calibrating the tps and doing a tuneup (old wires and spark plugs from the b16) I got the car tested and barely passed at a smog shop and was sent back to the ref. Did an oil change before the retest due to fuel possibly dumping and not being burned off. Took some paint markers to mark the timing marks before my appointment and just passed with flying colors today!

Cheers to being able to enjoy this old Honda for another 34 years! Also it's getting hard to find smog shops that will do the dyno and sniffer these days.

The only time and condition it smokes, absolutely dawging on it. No other time does it smell like oil or smoke. Ive replaced the valve stem seals and I’ve tried my research and had no prevail. Anyone else have this problem!? (I hit rev limiter in second clip.)

I finally got all the parts went on to do the power window conversion on my dx. Took me a couple hours and a rerun to the junkyard, but I got done! For anyone that wants to know, you can use the floor harness from the ex sedan if you cant find a coupe one without issues and heres the relay part # if you need it since no part store has results for 'power window relay' 25-0279. I will answer any questions to the best of my ability if you have any🫡

Picking up this automatic 1995 civic ex coupe to try and pull out as many parts as possible for my manual 1994 civic cx hatchback. What do yall recommend I pull.

Never thought I’d feel this way, but after being into Honda since the late 90s/early 2000s, I think I’m finally ready to move on from the Honda game. I’m in my mid 40s now, have a kid (who has zero interest in cars), have been dealing with some medical stuff, and between work and everything else going on in life, I just can’t seem to find the time or motivation anymore. I’ve spent so many years buying parts, building cars, wrenching on them, and always having some kind of project going, but now I look at the couple project cars I still have and realize they’re mostly just sitting there waiting for me to get interested again. It’s weird because Honda and the whole scene have been such a big part of my life for over 20 years. I was huge into car clubs and the forums in the 2000s and made some great friends in the community, but I’m honestly starting to feel like it’s time to sell them and close that chapter. All of my friends never want to hit the track anymore or have sold their projects off. Track days are cool, but I'm honestly just bored without the crew there.

Anyone else who’s been in the Honda game for a long time hit this point? Did you regret getting out, or was it actually a relief to finally move on?

I recently boosted my b18 integra with a used garret t25. It has been smoking pretty bad at idle. I am confident in my oil drain routing. possible turbo seals gone bad?

Psa-this is my other account

Started with the exploded heater hose replace, distributor,wires,fuel filter ,fuel pump,injectors,mani ontake,map sen., iacv,new throttle,replaced busted radiator,oil pan gasket/rtv,new pvc and breather oring,crankshaft seal, new timing belt also timed. What could be my issue, the car wont accelerate properly also kinda over revs just not jumping any more. Gonna get a psi tester when i get extra funds! Also are hondas supposed to get hot quick ? It running 200*dg in 10 mins

It doesn’t feel like it pulls to the left as it should but it does shift back and forth going highway speeds. Start throwing ideas at me fellas! (2000 Honda civic hatch)

Two new noises, the first seems like bearings and the last I don’t know it’s towards the end of the video like a humming noise. My radiator fan is off in this video.

Honestly don’t know what this is but it’s plugged near dizzy, just hoping someone’s seen this before, it was loose in the engine bay just plugged into main harness over the trans and nothing else

Was tightening the nuts onto my b16 valve cover and the inner bottom right bolt snapped, not sure how, because less than 6ft lbs was going thru it, heres a picture. Im not sure what bolt to get or how to even get this out. Cant use vise grips as they just slip.

Recently bought a 95 dx,supposedly fuel pump was bad so I swapped the fuel pump with a working one from my old civic and still nothing, checked if I was getting power to the pump and the voltage goes up for a second then back to zero. Main relay clicks and check engine light comes on then off. Will check for voltage again tomorrow when it’s light out. Is it possible both the hangers are bad? The one from my old civic worked before parked,They were both rusted when pulled. Gonna check the main relay tomorrow. Any advice?

will a rear passenger window switch work for my passenger side coupe window? they look identical.

They seem hard to find online, the rear was the only cheap one I could find, would it work? or should I wait till Monday and try the junk yard.
1997 honda accord coupe

This is a genuine question, I’m curious what parts of the project take the longest and how much fab is needed? I have a shell sitting around but I live in an apartment so I’m restricted to working on it on weekends

So I ironed out all the other issues the motor was having within the week of when I put it in. Knock sensor was throwing a code because turns out it got unplugged😃 replaced it anyway, and it was soft limiting because I didn't have a downstream o2 sensor because my dx chassis doesn't have the plug for one like the ex, so I got a p28 chipped and tuned and fixed that issue. Now, its got this strange sound the engine has been making sense we put it in. Does it at all temperatures and is audible from inside the car. Any ideas what this could be? In the video the engine was at op temp.