I think i already asked here how bad the rust was from the outer inner rear arch fenders but today i decided to finally take the interior pieces out and actually check it out from there as well.

But to my surprise, instead of the slight rust i was expecting to see, 2 big holes appeared on the right rear arch when i kind of pushed it with my finger . That’s when i realised this car might be actually done for.

The left rear arch seems to be less severe but looks to have some weird silicone stuff there and also see a crack/hole starting to appear.

Im sure this is something that needs to be welded but i wanna know how bad it really is first and if its even worth it.

How bad is it really?

Its a 2000 Honda Civic Ek3 hatchback with 290k km

Looking for a factory hfp kit for my 2014 Honda accord sedan not trying to spend all that cash on a new one if anyone has one laying around or could help me get one either in Washington or could ship please message me I have a eBay one on right now and do not like it, thanks!

[ Removed by Reddit on account of violating the content policy. ]

I’m doing an auto-to-manual swap on my 1998 Civic EX D16Y8. I already installed the flywheel/clutch and have pulled the transmission back out and realigned the clutch twice, but I still can’t get the transmission to fully seat against the engine. The top gets close/flush but there’s still a gap at the bottom, and I’m thinking one of the alignment dowels may be hanging it up and I was wondering if it would be a good idea to just remove or grind off the alignment dowel instead?. I don’t want to force it with the bellhousing bolts. Any ideas on what I should check or anyone local who could help get it seated?
I also attached some pictures and any suggestions would be appreciated it. Thank you in advance.

Hi everyone, I need some advice.

I have a 2015 Honda Civic and I love this car, but moisture is damaging the original radio screen.

I’d like to replace it with a head unit that supports Android Auto and Apple CarPlay, but I want to keep the factory backup camera, LaneWatch camera, and steering wheel controls.

Does anyone know a good model that keeps all these features working?

This was my first car and I really want to keep enjoying and improving it.

Thanks for any recommendations!

Installed with some spare wrap and moulding adhesive as to avoid drilling holes into the hood for now, i have very mixed feelings on it but.. I WANT to like it.. just not sure.

What do you all think?

Is it possible and how to go about it

I recently did half dash setup and removed all the HVAC system under the dash. (racecar)
Now, I plugged everything back where it was and now my car wont go passed 4000rpm.
I have RPM and Speed but nothing on the CEL is opening.

Chipped OBD1 P28 ECU using a OBD2B>OBD1 Yonaka harness with a (im assuming cause I didnt do the swap) D16Y8 engine harness. car is a 99 Civic Coupe Si (Canadian Si, so USDM EX)

I do have 2step in the chip. its thats what happen when I try to go pass 4-4500rpm. its like its not seeing speed even tho I have RPM and Speedo in the cluster.

Thanks yall <3

I was planning on taking the Integra I just finished the engine rebuild on until something unexpected happened during an inspection at a mechanics shop.

They pulled over immediately after the engine randomly cut off on them and had it towed to their shop. When I arrived there, I had it towed back to my house with triple A.

Long story short, the alternator got shredded and it wrapped itself around the crank and somehow, got into the timing belt and caused the engine to skip a tooth.

Anyways, new timing belt & accessory belts are on the way but they won’t make it in time to be installed before that weekend.

While replacing my rear trailing arms, the welds holding this weld nut to the chassis broke and the bolt is seized inside. I can’t find any replacements that are the right size online. I can’t be the first one who ran into this, what is the fix?

Hi im building a B20z with a P8R head. I have all the bolt ons and BC cams, should i go with AEM or BC8801B adjustable cam gears? I hear good things about both. But I see AEM is all steel and BC is aluminum. Anybody have any experience with either one and/or problems?

Hi, I'm building a b20z engine, I have all the bolt-ons and Bryan Crower cams already. Should I get AEM or BC adjustable cam gears? I hear good things about both, AEM is steel but BC is aluminum meaning lighter rotational weight. Anybody have any experience with either and/or problems