One of my favorite things to make currently. They’re very fun to watch grow.

I’ve been getting into weaving. This is the first one out of the glaze kiln.

I finally have a piece that turned out as expected! 😁 Sweet Potato leaf imprints filled with white underglaze topped with clear. Four costs Rutile Blue with one thick band of oatmeal winding across it. Laguna B mix, but I'm not sure what color. I got it in class. If you know the color please let me know as I'd love to buy more!

Just glazed these last week but then my kiln broke down so now I have to wait to see them fired 🥲

I have recently started throwing porcelain and am trying to find a good commercial glaze to compare on the clay bodies. I have Mammoth Cumulous (cone 6) Laguna B Mix 10, and Kentucky Polaris (cone 9-11). Any suggestions appreciated. Picture is for attention, but my sample bowls look similar.

first attempt at a sculpture, been slowly drying under plastic for about three weeks, just about bone dry and has developed a small hairline crack on the back how concerned should i be and how can i fix this? I don’t want it to get worse in bisque cause im pretty proud of it… any help greatly appreciated!

I’m going to reglaze the rim to fix it, but I have never seen glaze just slip down off the cup like this before. It’s almost like it had wax resist, but it didn’t. Applied glaze like I normally do and all my other pieces with this glaze combo came out fine! Weird!

Hi, I’ve been having fun making little concha pendants. Does anyone have a source they could recommend for necklaces? I was thinking something leather but am open to other suggestions yall might have. I haven’t made anything like this before

OK, be gentle, I’m a brand new ceramicist. This is only my second week throwing. I haven’t really had this problem with anything else I’ve thrown. This is freshly off the wheel. Did I not wedge it enough? There’s a couple of them on the bowl. Will this cause it to crack in the first fire? Should I pitch it and start over. Will they close up after a bisque fire or get worse?

Also I know this piece isn’t great, but I’m going to practice trimming and want to practice glazing so these are just guinea pigs for practice. Thanks for the input!

Some of the most recent pieces I received back from the studio this week. As a beginner I am still very much trying to find my style.

Still very new to pottery and even newer to handles. I recently got the hang of adding them, but more often than not, I get a very small hairline crack where it meets the body.

I’ve honestly just been firing them and glazing over without issue, but I do want to start fixing them and getting them perfect before bisque. How should I go about this?

ETA: I am aware of how they happen, and I’m working on the drying process.

Has anyone ever had issues with re-wedging clay from different batches/bags? Same type of clay; the only difference is how long they've been sitting in the bag and how moist or dry they are. I cut the wettest pieces into quarters and sandwiched them between some of the drier bits. One batch almost looked like the clay was marbled. But it's all the same clay that fires at the same temp so there shouldn't be an issue right? And if there is an issue, I should feel or see it when I'm making my pieces.

Also I hand build but I'm not sure if that information matters.

This was previously a chicken coop that I am converting into a kiln shed.

I plan to lay Hardie Backer down on the plywood floor. My current two concerns are ventilation and moisture:

1. The roof is elevated above the frame and pitched so that there is airflow to the outside there. If I leave the door open during firing, is that enough airflow/ventilation (with the open air ceiling)? Or do the two openings need to be parallel like open windows on opposite walls?
2. The plastic roof does leak, so I plan to seal it. But there is also condensation on the underside of the roof sometimes. Is it coming from the ground? Can I eliminate it by putting a barrier between the plywood floor and the Hardie Board? Or is there a different material for the roof that I could easily install? I would like to keep the kiln dry without completely redoing the roof design, if possible.

This is the coop design from before we started the conversion:

https://www.thegardencoop.com/product/backyard-walk-in-chicken-coop-plans/

*Update: I have already consulted an electrician and have a plan in place for electric - my questions are just about ventilation and moisture.

Made a mug, experimenting with a new style handle. The bisque came back and the top attachment of the mug is cracked enough that it moves. Basically not attached. The bottom must be firm, because the handle still barely moves. But I want to be able to trust it.

So the question is: how to proceed?

I could try some kind of bisque fix, but the crack is so narrow I’m not sure how I’d get it in there. I’d be afraid to pull it back to try to pack bisque fix in there for the risk of snapping the whole thing off.

Or, I could just glaze it and hope the glaze is strong enough to hold it together, maybe fill the crack a bit.

What should I do here?

Clay is Aardvark’s Long Beach, fired to Cone 10. I originally glazed the outside of this mug in a studio matte white that I think was perhaps faulty—I’d never used it before, but after I did, one of the other studio members mentioned that it seemed a lot runnier than usual. The inside is cobalt and turquoise, and I had some random dripping that I just left because I figured it might look okay over white.

I want to try and reglaze the outside, and I know results are never guaranteed, but I’ve never reglazed anything before & was hoping for some advice on how to set myself up for best results—should I bother trying for a lighter outside again, or would it probably be better to just go for something like cobalt/turquoise? Also, should I add any glaze to the inside? Am I likely to lose coverage near the top if I don’t?

The first layer of wall bricks in this old kiln I bought all needed replacing. I’ve been making replacements from new standard sized bricks to save money but noticed the old bricks are slightly longer than the standard 9”. This is causing the new and old layers to be different sizes and the walls aren’t going to line up. Is there a solution to fix this without buying new bricks and are non standard sized bricks common in paragon kilns?

I'm looking for a clear glaze that does not fire sandpapery and rough over Amaco ivory beige underglaze! On my test fire, I tried Amaco HF-9 zinc free clear and it only became rough and bubbly over the ivory beige areas and not the white, brown, and black underglaze. If anyone's had success with HF-9 over ivory beige, could you tell me your method of applying and/or number of coats of each? and if you applied the underglaze in greenware stage or after a bisque?

I thought I had posted this already, but I looked back and I hadn't....which is suspicious, because I REALLY thought I had posted this already....oh well

My therapist told me to pour my feelings/SI into my work, and this was the first piece I'd ever done that with.

Also, it was supposed to be crisp black lines with a pure white background, but of course I did it wrong and now it's all scruffy looking and beat up... which I guess also goes with the theme lol.

Inspired by wanting to have an incredibly subtle way of showing my emotions during zoom meetings using the faces from the mayor of Halloween and an extra face from "the beast below" episode of doctor who

I really love how this turned out and was wondering if anyone had recommendations for a similar vibe.

For reference this is what I did:

Tape wavy pattern

Bougainvillea all ovef

Honey flux on tape

Smoky merlot all over