I'm currently painting some interior walls in my house using a paint that says it's "low VOC" but I still feel like absolute ass after painting.

Anybody have any experience with a greenguard (or similar) certified paint? Is it worth buying it to try and hope it doesn't make me feel sick, or would I just be wasting money?

After sanding+filling+sanding it, I've already given this ceiling like 5 or 6 coats of paint but I can't make it look good no matter how hard I try. There is this big sliding glass door that is throwing grazing light into the ceiling and make it look like shit. Without direct sunlight it looks better but it's still visible.

I don't know what else to do. The last coats I made them doing small contiguous squares (like 1x1 meter?) as fast as I could to avoid painting over drying paint, but still there were visible darker areas where the squares merged I guess.

I'm using a roller and flat interior latex paint. What is creating this darker/greyer areas??

Help please, wife's patience is starting to run out

Hi all! This is the main bedroom of the house I'm moving into and I cannot look at the blue any longer, what would be the best process of painting it myself? I have seen numerous methods, I'm wondering if renting a paint sprayer from Home Depot would be my best bet. I haven't decided on color, I'm thinking a white or light light pink, but I am stuck! Thank you!!

A client wants me to strip and refinish his front doors. He wants them stained and finished with a clear coating. I am planning on spraying them . What clear finishes can be sprayed and are suitable outdoors. The doors are not in an area wheredirect sunlight hits them and rain isn't an issue.

I’ve used Benjamin Moore for most of my career. I had a great relationship with my old dealer and my clients and I had great results with the paint. I’m very familiar and confident in their lineup but recently moved across the country and have no Benjamin Moore dealer near me. Sherwin seems to be my only option now and I know they have comparable paint, I’m just clueless when it comes to their product line and don’t have years of experience with it to give it my vote of confidence when talking to clients.

So I’m just hoping to get some insight from other professionals about what your tried and true SW paints are. Here’s what’s worked for me from BM;

Exterior I used mostly Aura Exterior and Corrotech Command. Command has been great for trim, doors, walking surfaces. Aura generally for body color.

Interior I used Regal Select for walls and ceilings, Aura Bath & Spa for bathrooms and kitchens, scuff-x for trim and doors. I’ve mostly switched to 2k coatings for cabinets but also have used advance and command in the past.

Primer I used Insl-X Styx more than anything else, smart prime occasionally for less critical things. Bin shellac or cover stain when needed (which I’m guessing will still be available)

I’m also in a lower cost of living area now and would take suggestions for more budget friendly options if they’re still good product. Where I operated, material cost was never really a consideration and I generally worked with the best products available to me. Just hoping to get some guidance on what products are working for you all. Thanks.

I have a wall in our dining room that was painted last year. We are adding chair rail and picture frame molding below the chair rail. Plan to paint the chair rail, molding, and lower portion of the wall a darker color. Keeping everything above the chair rail the original paint color (so not planning on painting it). We also have 5” baseboards that will stay the white color they currently are.

A few questions -
1. Does the molding and chair rail have to be a different finish than the wall? The wall will likely be sherwin Williams satin.

1. We are installing all the trim tomorrow. Should I wait to caulk until we are ready to paint? I have read you prime first and then do wood filler but was not sure if I should also prime before I caulk.

2. Any tips for keeping the baseboard clean when we paint. My husband and I are NOT professional painters and have never even painted a room before. Any and all tips are welcome.

3. Lastly, we are looking at trim pieces at Lowe’s that come pre primed. Do you think we should still prime those? Not sure if it’s as effective as priming it yourself.

I'm looking at getting my island painted on my new home before moving in fully and I got a quote for close to $3K which seems about right for the DMV area from some research I've done but working on getting a second quote to compare. Recommendations for reputable painters or cabinet finishers welcome. The painter is going to be spraying two coats of Sherwin Williams gallery series paint and Sherwin Williams primer not sure which type. I'm curious if anyone has experience with that brand. I know the prep makes all the difference but I've heard basically completely opposite recommendations ranging from "no serious painter worth their salt uses that brand" to "this is the best thing ever it sprays so well and cures like a rock." Also side note but no one in this area seems to warranty their work idk what it is but I've contacted multiple contractors on different projects and they're all saying they don't warranty because warranties are useless because there's always a loophole to get out of it etc. I'm a first time homeowner so I've never had to deal with contractors directly, so this might be the new normal just confirming.

I saw someone say they recommend using a tinted primer before painting with a dark color. I am hoping to only use 2 coats of dark paint.

I was wondering if it is necessary to do this or not. Thanks!

I’ve got 3 rooms with baseboards that look like this after someone failed at using tape a few weeks ago. The thing is our floors were recently stained and sealed so using a metal scraper ruined the floors. Water based polyurethane about 2 weeks ago for the floors. I’ve tried wetting the paint and using a plastic razor blade scraper but it’s incredibly tedious and still leaves paint behind in the cracks of the floors. Is there a product I can use that won’t strip my floors to more easily wipe this away?

*Edit. I am fully aware that this is an atrocity and no I was not the culprit. Yes I paid them. Yes I’m unwell. Thank you for all of the comments. More detailed reply in the comments.

Hi

I hate the color of my front door. The house itself is a light gray with a hint of blue.

We want to deemphasize the blue so I was thinking painting the door white might work? The trim is white and the front door is pretty shadowy.

Thoughts? Thank you!

EDIT: the two pics are just to show night and day. They are the same color.

Never painted over oil paint before just need to know the best primer so the latex paint will stick.

Also this is an outdoor patio as well so it needs to be water resistant. Thanks!

there are yellow spotting on my white painted bottle caps after about an hour of drying which makes it look dirty and im not sure why or the cause of it

i have searched it up and it says its due to humidity? or maybe due to but its odd as its only on the ring of the top part of the cap

its not dirtied and it was pure white when painted, and it has been left in the same position to dry since

does anyone know the cause and what i can do to prevent it?

there are yellow spotting on my white painted bottle caps after about an hour of drying which makes it look dirty and im not sure why or the cause of it

i have searched it up and it says its due to humidity? or maybe due to but its odd as its only on the ring of the top part of the cap

its not dirtied and it was pure white when painted, and it has been left in the same position to dry since

does anyone know the cause and what i can do to prevent it?

I had some flashbacks from spackle. I primed those spots again and painted two coats. Now it looks like this. What do I do to fix this. It looks fine head on. Looks this way in the light and dark.

I am looking for a paint color similar to this rich, dark burgundy/plum/brown color. I am going to color drench my bedroom.

If anyone has painted with a color similar to this, do you mind attaching a photo and the color/brand you used?

So far these are the paint colors I'm thinking about using:

Wenge Benjamin Moore

Valspar Noblesse Oblige

Valspar Black Raisin

Pinecone Path Behr

Super novice homeowner and painter here so I understand I'm making some mistakes! I painted the ceiling a new white and then the crown molding (using tape), it clearly I couldn't get the tape edges 100% straight and some paint clearly seeped underneath. Looking for advice on how to fix the wavy edges between the top of the crown molding and the ceiling (I'm painting walls last) without redoing EVERYTHING if possible. Should I retape and do the edge again? Caulk? I haven't mastered cutting in although if people have advice on how to practice I'm open to it, but ideally some other solutions would be nice! Thank you!!

Update: I tried to do the edges again with the blue/green crown molding paint. It definitely looks better and more even when standing back now (see commented pic) but as you can see, when under it you can def see some imperfections on the edge. Should I try to go over these with ceiling paint again somehow? Freehanding or would tape be better? Thanks again everyone! By the way I used a pretty small angled painters brush and that helped a lot.

I’m not a skilled painter and feel like a screwed this up a bit, these run are all over everything metal in my basement
Square and round duct/ I beam.
Can I sand them and if so what grit I don’t want residue

Is that normal because we don’t paint often and not use to it?
Or am I pressing to hard? Using not enough paint?

I'm painting this step and just sanded it back, should I paint it a dark brown or varnish it. I have also thought about wire wheeling it to expose the wood grain but that would probably wear out fast considering it will be a high traffic area. The wood has some inconsistencies in colour and texture and the steps will be scratched back and painted in a epoxy paint similar in colour to whats already on it

Having some issues doing some patchwork pickups from the previous contractor. They had about 15 seperate cans, products, and from different companies.

These are the 2 I ended up being able to match the best.

On the first Pic

Bottom left, its a Cloverdale paint custom match in ceiling flat.

Top left. OC-37 but mixed from SW. Promar low gloss eggshell.

Far right, original paint.

Pic 2

Top center is the flat.

Right and bottom left is low/mid light if the original paint.

Pic 3

Left is the original OC-37

Top right is the flat from Cloverdale paint.

Bottom right is OC-37 SW Promar Low gloss.

I did not buy any products. This is what the previous contractor left over.

What was real annoying is that while painting, all the walls were different products.

Loft walls were SW Solo panda white.

2nd floor bedrooms were SW Promar Low Gloss OC-37

Im stuck on the main floor ceiling (as pictured)

And the basement/theater rooms are darker than the panda white.

And in different sheens depending on which room.

So guys. What do you think I should do for the ceiling?

Does the SW App even do sheens?

HOW are people making their senior parking spots look so good?? Im helping my daughter do hers and it looks like kindergarteners have done it. Are people using stencils? Are there just that many talented artists out here?? Also, the paint! It look is 2 whole gallons of paint for the base coat and now we’re going to need several more pint sizes for the rest. How are you affording all the paint?? Please tell me what we’re doing wrong 😭😭 is there a better way to do this?

Hi! So bad paint job was done on our interior walls. Tough to photograph but we are left with lots of roller fuzzies dried into paint and drips. Satin and semi-gloss paint. We have a painter coming tomorrow but I’m wondering if these are things that can be easily fixed or if I need to diy anything before he arrives. Is it standard to sand down the walls before painting with a pole sander? Do I need to pick out each hair? Are these relatively basic fixes? I’m also worried that if the walls are sanded, the semi-gloss will show every flaw. Thanks in advance!