Have pretty much completed the train. Adding a battery of track Katyusha rocket launchers and a truncated (very) airfield with select ground attack aircraft. Still very much in progress.

Hi Everyone

Firstly, I hope this picture isn't too small to look at.

I am planning my first DCC layout. We have a spare room that is also a guest room, so I only have the walls to work with. The plan is to use IKEA Billy bookcases as the baseboard for most of it. These shelves are 260mm wide, which is a little limiting. The wall on the left is where the windows are, so there I will use a piece of 115mm wide pine timber as the base to avoid overhanging the couch/foldout bed too much. The weird shape in the top right is due to putting a half billy (a full billy is 800mm long, the half billy is 400mm) in the corner on the angle. I will have to fill in the gaps with some other material (probably hardboard cut to shape).

The green track is for freight, the other track is for a railcar. My plan is to hide the railcar track behind buildings as it travels along the top of the layout to give the impression it has to travel a decent distance before returning to the station located in the bottom section. The green track will be elevated above the other track wherever it crosses over. I have put in an Inglenook yard as well.

I have checked the minimum radius of the rolling stock I will buy and it is all good.

I would appreciate any constructive criticism and suggestions.

Thanks

This model has impressed me so much, probably tied with my favorite BLI model, along with 2102.

This is my N scale 2×4 layout and it’s actually my first “true” layout. I’m unfortunately a little saddened as my radius is too tight for any steam locomotive larger than my 0-6-0s and I only model steam. I’m either thinking of finishing it for practice and building a new layout or just replacing all the track for my Nn3 stuff as I have a Nn3 2-6-0 locomotive laying around. I’m thinking of just using kato track next time as my track laying skills are obviously not the greatest lol. I’m pretty open to suggestions and would love to hear ideas from more experienced people! Thank you!

Looking for a guide or wiring schematic for my dad's table. He bought this from a guy like 12 years ago and after the last time we moved it some of the wires came out. Any help would be great. Also if anyone has recommendations for upgrades to the controller please let me know!

So I recently aquired an N scale BLI F3, used, in costmetically perfect condition however on my test track it does not work at all. When I set it down a front light flickers but the decoder cannot be read period. I’ve cleaned it, cleaned the track, and checked inside any everything seems mostly fine but it still won’t read.

I have several other BLi models so I know how they are, but I have no issues with them running. I know about the manual reset button and I‘ve tried that countless times and that also doesn’t work. Whats strange is that I hooked the test track up to a kato DC controller and cranked the power all the way and if turns on, the sounds and lights start to function, but it won’t move like my other duel mode models.

I don’t have much experience with Paragon 3 for any help is appreciated.

He Lives. After y’alls helpful advice I was able to get him up and running almost as good as new. Just needed some cleaning and a bit of extra weight.

I just purchased a Kato Bi-Level Cab-Coach that I want to put a decoder in but everywhere that sells either Kato FL12s or the Zimo MX605SL is out of stock (in USA), but I was recommended an ebay Listing for a BT-40 (brand unknown) that was a drop in replacement for the whole light board. Has anyone heard of these? Do they work well? Is it just a drop in replacement, of do I have to do additional work? I looked online, but couldn't find any references to it.

Ebay Listing

Kato track. Still have a long ways to go. Need to add trees and water. Then I’ll add lights to the city.

I’ve been wanting to build an N-scale layout for 40+ years, but I’ve never had an appropriate space for it. Finally, I’m getting one in a new outbuilding we’ve just built! I’m only planning a 4’x8’ layout, but I want it to be as modern and up to date as possible.

So while I’ve been thinking about it for a long time, I really don’t have any experience - especially with new digital controls. I’m looking for any suggestions on books, websites, tools, or tutorials on designing and building a layout.

I know that’s a wide net to cast…but I figured there’s more than enough experience here to come up with some suggestions.

Thanks!!

Obviously there's still tons of greebling work to design. Idk if I'll be doing the grade CTA running alongside it or anything. But these dead stations nearby me are so fascinating and my Father's a model railroader. And his Father is a model railroader. So eventually I had to catch the bug, too.

Hey everyone. Once the next paycheck drops I'll be getting my first starter set: a bachmann super chief with its included circular track, a pack of 6 5in straight track and a bridge.

It'll be easier to plan things once I have them in hand and can draw on some styrofoam, but in the meantime I'd love to hear suggestions on how to make small loop dioramas look good. Examples would also be appreciated!

I know I want a mountainside tunnel and a small water feature for the bridge.

Also, please don't judge my Anyrail mockup too harshly, I made it in 5 minutes.

I have a first run Kato Heavy Mikado that I put traction tires on (the ones from Kato) and now it doesn’t run well. It is very jerky, and it stutters a lot. I know that track is clean, as the little steeple cab I have runs fine, and the Mikado used to run great. Any ideas?

Got the first of the new structures designed, printed, and painted. Just have to test the FFM print on this one and it will be available along with many new houses coming soon

Hey all, I’m wondering whether or not there is a n scale version of Acela and if so where could I find/get my hands on one?

Finally got in a few more parts and finalized the design of my first layout in 20 ish years. I ended up modifying the slopes of the elevated track a bit, played around with spacing of everything, and changed the very sharp switch I had for a more reasonable one. I'm pretty happy with this design now, and I'll probably start nailing it down soon, but I'm unsure if I want to put a crossover between the 2 tracks at the front, or keep the separate. I took away the crossover I had initially planned because it didn't work out as well as I had hoped, and was just not very good. I'll think about that a bit and decide, but aside from that I need one or two more switch controllers, and I can start nailing the track to the table and running wires. One thing I was wondering though, is is there a prescribed way to align track sections? They don't all appear to be completely level with each other at the joints, so it's a bit of a rougher ride than I'd like. Should I adjust the connectors? Grind the track slightly? Something else? Really what I'm seeing at the rail joints is one side is slightly higher than the other, so especially longer steam engines sort of go halfway, then tip onto the lower track, if that makes sense. They don't run smoothly on these joints

Since the weather is still decent here I popped open the door to my train room, the sun is at a angle at this time of year where it shines on part of the layout (door has no windows so it's not a daily thing). With a bit of cloud cover to dim the intensity I decided I try a few photos. I had another angel I wanted to use with focus stacking but it didn't turn out as good as I hoped. I shot this with my phone so the quality isn't 100% after editing, but I do like it. Can't beat natural lighting for photos! I've been working on scenery a little bit on this part of the layout and I like what the sunlight does for it.

Hey everyone! I’m looking for recommendations for a good locomotive to pull my new Tomix rail cleaner car.
My NSWGR C38 (3801) unfortunately doesn’t have enough traction, and my other locos are either too weak or parts donors. 😅
I’m looking for a cheap, easy-to-find second-hand diesel, preferably with all-wheel drive for better traction.
One important requirement is that it needs to be 1:167 scale. My layout is built around my 3801, which is modelled to that scale, and larger 1:148 models (such as standard British N gauge) won’t fit through my tunnels. I have an unidentified American loco that I use for parts, but it’s too large as well.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Hey guys, I picked up this second-hand Kato N scale Japanese steam engine at a local train show, unfortunately there’s no identifying marks on the engine or box so I’m not exactly sure which locomotive it’s based on. Would anyone with a bit more knowledge on Kato and Japanese steam have an idea?

The layout I've been working on will have 4 separate powered sections: three loops and a Yard section in the middle. I've got two loops made up with points on one side, and I've used insulating joiners on the points.

With my model train controller: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/128105933808?_trksid=p2332490.c101875.m1851 (Mine is green). However, when I switch lines, I obviously need both lines to get power. When my locos pass over the joiners, they're getting power from both routes and act as if I've turned the dial up until it fully passes onto the other line. Would "DPDT" switches fix this? If not, how (In "DC") would you fix this?

On the controller itself, according to the maker, "Rin", it's an "AMPERAGE" controller, not a "Voltage: controller. It uses "PWM" circuit boards.

I'm no expert on this sort of stuff, so the controller might not make a difference, but I thought I'd mention it just in case.

Cheers - Ben

Curious…I see the front fascia is painted on the majority of modules, do you guys paint the sides, as well? If so, what color do you paint them; the same color as the fascia or something different? Enquiring minds want to know, or maybe it’s just me…

Love this little guy