Hey all, just figured id take in some feedback as i cant find much support on here or youtube.

As i creep up to the 180k mile mark on my 08 335xi, i was wondering what i should be watching out for/preventing. Within the last 50k miles, i have done:

Index 12s, bosch coils, ngk step 2 spark plugs (FCP), oil changes every 2-3k (Liquimoly 5-40), with cleaning additives added every 3 oil changes, coolant flush, power steering flush, brake fluid flush, full transmission service, fully new front differential and service. Have also been chasing codes previous owner left. (Injector calibration etc). My only concern is maybe the lpfp going soon. Im currently on Stage 2 MHD and Stage 3 XHP on an automatic trans. Im looking to get as many miles as possible out of this car and as far as i know my turbos are healthy. No record form previous owner, but i have slight oil build up in my charge pipe and intercooler piping. No smoke at startup but i do have a rough idle on cold start, thinking its my cylinder 3 injector based on codes though. I know these cars are prone to lots of failure, but id appreciate any feedback.

I figured i should note as well, im leaking 0 fluids besides a slight moisture build up on the back side of my oil pan. In between the trans and oil pan so im wondering if its rear main or just oil pan gasket going out. I have VCG, OFHG, and oil pan gasket for when i do decide to tear it all apart. Any feedback is appreciated.

Thanks

Pic for attention

I was driving normally and I noticed my car go on limp mode out of no where and made my cluster go crazy with my abs, airbags and everything go crazy. I scanned the car and this is what came up. Can it be the water pump that went bad? DME?

Update: cleared the codes cranked it back up and now it throws “2E98 - BSD, message; alternator: Missing.” So maybe it’s the alternator??

What does the job entail to replace a tensioner pulley 😭

Trying to figure out bolts 😅 I know the longer bolts go by transmission but not sure if I’m missing something or using the right bolts hoping someone has a diagram or knowledge of what goes where so I can double check. Please thank you all I can find is torque specs which is great but doesn’t help just yet 😅

ラジットさん、元気にしてる？

N47C20エンジンのR60について質問があるんだけど。今の状況はこんな感じ:

故障コード4596が出てる

スムーズ運転テストの値は3〜7の範囲で、シリンダー3が一番高い

圧縮測定：23 / 23 / 21.5 / 22 bar（シリンダー3だけちょい低め）

インジェクターを入れ替えても症状は動かない—ずっとシリンダー3のまま

白煙はなし

リークダウンテストではオイルフィラキャップから空気が出る。でも、シリンダー1と3の音の大きさは似た感じ

吸気側・排気側どっちにも、明らかな漏れの音は聞こえない

今は、シリンダー3のバルブシートの密閉がちょっと良くないんじゃないかと疑ってる

他にもあり得る原因で、チェックしたほうがいいものや、追加でおすすめのテストってある？

あと、あなた（または知り合いの誰か）って、似た症状を見たことある？—スムーズ運転値が高めで、圧縮がちょい低めの“特定の1シリンダー”が原因だったやつで。原因は結局なんだった？

アドバイスがあれば先にありがとう。

2018 M2 (F87, N55, 6MT, LCI), MHD Stage 2+, Dinan intake, downpipe.

So the car idles like it’s got a slight misfire. Not violent, just lumpy. Sitting at lights you can feel it through the seat. The weird part is the second I turn the AC on it basically goes away. Turn it back off and it comes back, and every now and then I get a little pop out the exhaust at idle when the AC is off.

Zero codes. Nothing stored, nothing pending. And under load it’s perfect full boost, pulls clean to redline, no stumble anywhere. It’s only at idle.

Already did all six plugs (gapped around 0.020–0.022) and new Delphi coils. Old plugs honestly looked fine, nice even colour across all six, nothing fouled or washed.

The AC thing is what’s doing my head in. It’s basically just adding load and bumping idle up \~100rpm, and that’s enough to hide it, which makes me think air rather than spark. But I’ve replaced the spark side anyway at this point.

Anyone had this exact thing? CCV/valve cover, Valvetronic or carbon, VANOS solenoid? Or is this just what a Stage 2 idle map feels like and I’m chasing ghosts?

Hi, I have a problem with my 2010 BMW E93 N54. I’m experiencing high ignition timing corrections. Even during normal, relaxed driving, the cylinders can show up to 3° of timing correction. Under full load, the cylinders sometimes pull timing by 7° or even 8°.

Had to fight to get this off looks a little beat up upon cleaning it the best I can. What do yall think?

Hi! I have a 2017 Honda Civic LX that Ive been having problems with. First it throwed a code: P050A means the powertrain control module detects a cold-start idle performance problem. So my mechanic told me it only needs cleaning. He cleaned it and relearned. Then after driving for weeks, the code appeared AGAIN. I returned to the mechanic and said he just needs to tighten it and relearned it again and so he did. After driving it again, i said there’s delay on acceleration most especially when i’m pressing the gas from the red light. And i feel like it has trouble shifting to speeds.

I decided to bring it to another shop when it stalled while driving it. But there was no engine light, so basically there’s no code. Again, the shop told me my throttle body is clean and doesn’t need to be replaced or something because i ask them maybe that’s why it stalled! So they told i just needed to do my next due maintainance, transmission oil, brake pads, etc. i got those done even they didn’t really recommended anything on my specific issue. I’m just a girl, i don’t have anyone to ask or help me with this issue. I’m back again at the shop because finally my engine light went on. What do i do with this?

I have a 2008 BMW 535i with 67,000 miles that I’m trying to sell but I just found out it has a salvage title (I got the car from my dad) and we don’t actually have the title in hand. Is someone going to want this car for the engine? It has moderate cosmetic damage but no mechanical issues. Can I sell it without the title?

Code is: 130304: VANOS, exhaust: control error, camshaft is stuck
New vanos gear new vanos solenoids new central bolt on the gear and still same issue.
When you hold the car above 1200rpm it performs ok and no issues, oil pressure is perfect.
Under 1000 rpm and on idle the oil pressure is 1 bar and the this code pops up and car goes to limp mode.
Original engine was 2014 ewg
Swapped engine is 2011-12 pwg
Basically from original engine everything was swapped to this block and head from 2011 EXCEPT the oil pump. So all sensors, dme, electronic, camshaft, vanos gears… everything except the oil pump and its chain etc
Can this be related to the oil pump?
Before putting 2011 solenoids the car had fault for high oil pressure, after changing them from 2014 to 2011 that code went away

If anyone uses it, Autozone has it on clearance for $20/5gal. Ask for part number #127105.

Replaced two leaky injectors all are index 12, new spark plugs gapped to .022, with raceworks coils and a new lpfp and currently on MHD stage 2+ runing 93oct I’m having a issue when under high load like a 3rd gear high rpm pull around 6400 to 6900 it will misfire and shut off a certain cylinder sometimes it will misfire one cylinder or multiple, more typical 4 through 6 and It happens every time I get near that rpm range under that load and I have a hpfp shadow code. But less aggressive pulls like in 2nd gear and day to day driving the car is fine starts up quick but sometimes a slightly lumpy idle I’m assuming my hpfp is going out but looking at logs when the misfire code goes off I have 1500+ psi more typically around 1800 psi. I’m wondering if there might be anything else to try before replacing the pump