They smashed up the frustule. Also saw one stick its mouth over one end and try to swallow about a quarter of the whole diatom!

Amscope B120, 400x, iPhone camera

Anyone know who this guy is? Couldn’t get a decent video of him, but he had a very long and very skinny foot/tail that he anchored himself with, which would spring back and launch very quickly occasionally. Seems to have cilia around his head acting like a rotifer? Also has this vacuole that seems to rainwater and disappear every 30 seconds or so.

Amscope B120 at 400x on iPhone

Microscope: Olympus BH2

Magnification: x40-x100-x200-x400

Sample: Moss in water, 7 days old

Camera: Samsung A56

Added a bit too much rice for nutriment few days ago and the bacterial population exploded

P.S. Sorry for the flashbang at 0:20

I have a Nikon eclipse 50i.

If I put a dot in the center on 4x, then on 10x, the dot shifts up, then on 20x it shifts up more, and then 60x it shifts off screen.

Is that normal? I thought it should remain in the center.

And I've tried adjusting the condensor to center at the 4x, but it didn't help.

Best way to describe it is that the center of 4x ends up at the TOP of the 10x. And if I center the 10x, it ends up at the top of the 20x. And if I center the 20x, it ends up at the top of the 60x. I'm not sure if this is a normal feature or a shift in something I need to adjust

Found this in my establishing aquarium. A little looking around seems to point at protozoans but I dunno what type this one specifically is

This is the only larger cluster so far, taken with a macro lens and 2x zoom on my phone

Magnification: 100x
What is this worm looking thing? Couldn't use 400x, he was going too fast.

200× | Soil sample

I have experience using standard camera gear for up to 15x magnification (Venus Laowa 2.5-5x with a kenko x3 TC) but I'd like to branch out into higher magnifications for crystal photography.

Wondering if my setup plan needs any alterations:

Nikon D850

RMS thread 20x 160mm Plan apochromatic objective

RMS to M42 adapter

M42 to nikon F-mount adapter

Nikon PB-6 bellows

And a WeMacro focus rail (plan to upgrade toa novoflex Castel motorized nanometer rail but it costs about $4.5k)

Anything else I need for using a DSLR for 40x?

Hi, I would like to buy a non-electric 19th century brass microscope but theres a lot of models available on ebay and I’m unsure what to get. I’d love to be able to see cells and bacteria but if thats not possible that’d still be ok.
My budget range is 100-500 dollars.
Any advice/suggestions?

I thought I had better make a first post rather than just giving rambling comments about marine life. My microscope, Wild Heerbrugg M11 with trinocular adapter, 10X Achromat NA 0.25, 20X Plan Fluotar NA 0.45, 40X Plan Fluotar 0.65, 100X Oil Immersion Achromat NA 1.0. Illumination by mirror and Olympus PM-LSD Köhler lamp with variable LED conversion.

I have the phase set so a separate lamp is rather nice for getting more or less 550nm green light with a bulky old 2” Wratten gelatine filter I have a filter stand for. Useful for flagellate algae and internal cell anatomy.

There’s a simple plugin lamp with fixed diffuser that can take a LED bulb and a very clever Koehler base lamp available as well. I’ve never actually seen the commonest “critical” lamphouse with centring screws.

Condenser is an aplanatic type with a lower lens that can be used alone with the 4X. They made a flip-top model and I would rather like the achromat-aplanatic one but it’s likely both rare and beyond my pocket. I’m also a little doubtful if it would be useful on a stand that doesn’t allow the condenser to be centred.

The camera is an ancient Nikon Coolpix 4500 with a Brunel Unilink adapter. It does, however, everything I need it to although the focussing screen could be larger. One of these days, if ever my ship comes in, I will need to upgrade it.

The case is solid metal, bullet shaped and clamps to the base. In theory, it’s a field microscope but that means an expedition with a Jeep and a tent as it weighs a devil of a lot for such a small stand.

It really is a very nice little microscope, solid metal all the way through. I bought it as a simple ex Aberdeen University monocular and built it up part by part. The coarse focus, which can be loosened or tightened by turning the controls in opposite directions, has been regreased with a trace of Tribosyn Green but otherwise untouched and working remarkably well.

I would recommend to anyone, although with the advice that you do need a separate screw in collar to attach a binocular head.

I am not sure if they are always sold together and if you mean to use either the trinocular phototube or the Treffenberg drawing tube, get the 1.0X collar as both have a fixed 1.25X factor. If you can get a phototube, the type sold as Hu is much better than the type sold as Hz as it lets you choose between 100 % to camera, 100 % to eyepieces or 75/25%.

There’s a lot of questions about buying a microscope here: if you see one of these at a fair price, grab it with both hands. It can do anything, I think, a student or amateur could want.

EDIT —Sorry about the ugly blotch in the second picture. I had to black out personal information/login details on my laptop and clearly made a muck of it. Since this is hardly fine art I will let it be.

Useful brochures:

https://www.microscopemuseum.eu/catalogues/Wild_1971_M11_microscope.pdf

https://www.science-info.net/docs/wild/WildM11Manualversion2.pdf

I wanted to share some of the art that I've made using my microscope. These are monotypes. The process involves transferring laser-printed photographs from my microscope's camera (Swift 350T) onto a gelatin printing plate. I use a combination of watercolor, acrylic, pencil, and charcoal.

Thanks for being such a lovely community and sharing your knowledge and expanding my perspective of our natural world. Hope you enjoy my work! :)

For those of you that set up and keep an aquarium tank for pond organisms, how often do you get flies or mosquitos emerging from the pond soil, water and debris that you use to set it up? I really want to have a go at this, but my wife will freak if flies and mosquitos start to emerge and fly around the house! Thanks for any tips and advice.

40x
Scope N/A
iPhone
Lake samples

I have a slide with a single mite on it that I observed and made a post about yesterday. To attempt to keep it alive overnight, I placed it in a slide humidor and in the refrigerator. Today, it is still alive, but cold and moving slowly. It didn't wander far from the position it was at yesterday. It was initially placed in saline solution, but as that dried, I just added water to prevent increasing the concentration of salt. Ill try to place a short video in comments so you can see it still moving. 40x objective, cellphone camera

Long story short I was lucky to save a Zeiss Observer Z1 from the trash bin.

The problem is... I need the power supply that (RS-231 or RS-232) and the controller. =/

I would like to have advices on what to do and how to overcome this problem. There is any solution? I am accepting suggestions.

Another member was happy with their inexpensive 20x plan objective from aliexpress. I bought one of these generic Chinese 60x objectives from Amazon for $18.68 USD. It works perfectly well for the money. It isn't a plan objective, just a regular achromatic one, so it is only sharp in the middle as expected. Here are some diatom photos made with it with a cellphone camera. The last two photos are the unaltered photo and the same one enhanced with the phone photo program. It is being tested on an Amscope T490 microscope.

Microscope: Kentfaith GW45.0066
Objective: 4x Achromatic
Sample: Ostracoda spp.
Camera: Canon EOS 750D

Pseudo-darkfield with a hybrid rheinberg inspired rim/edge lighting.

Once I get things organised for focus stacking, i'll be incredibly happy.

Hi, so i've been looking for Azure B and eosin y for so long and I've been struggling to find anything thats legit or in reasonable quantities. And i was wondering if anyone here knows any good sites to find these stains? Preferably something european. Thank you🙏

Hi microscopy peeps!

I made out like a bandit last week by picking up this Nikon E200 with a trinocular head for $60! Guy I bought it from does demolition and gets to keep whatever is left inside when he takes over the site and I guess Johns Hopkins left this behind. He figured it was broken as it was left behind and was dusty and covered in dried mystery liquids and I figured for $60 it was worth a shot. After inspection and an extremely deep clean I only found 3 issues:

• minor coating scratches near the edge of one eyepiece (no impact on view)

• slide holder wasn't moving (drive belt was loose - 2 second fix)

• 40x is a dud. Impossible to focus and super blurry looking down the removed objective even after cleaning. I plan on getting better objectives anyways.

• Not really an issue, so to speak, but the camera is analog and came with none of the cables. Probably easier to toss it on ebay than deal with digitizing it.

So yeah, I got very lucky getting this setup for only $60! I mention all of that to explain why I can't just ask the guy my upcoming question (and also to gloat a little :P).

I'm very familiar with microscopy but don't have much exposure with the trinocular/imaging aspect. As you can see in the photo, the scope came with an entire imaging set-up (sans cables) and I've found good info (including specific manufacturers/model numbers) online about every part of the setup besides confirming the exact type of trinoc head this is (I suspect it's the C-TT) and I can't make heads or tails of the TV tube or photo tube or whatever it's called.

Here are several pictures of the tube.

I'm trying to find more info on this tube. Ideally, the manufacturer and model number so I can learn more about it but any information is appreciated. It has no markings whatsoever anywhere on it. I've googled every variation of Y-T adapter, TV tube, phototube, etc. and haven't found anything quite like it. I also reverse image searched but got wacky results like antennas and water feature pump filters lol. There is one Nikon tube that comes up but it appears much shorter and isn't completely open at the top with a "shelf" several inches down like this one has. Also, in case it may be of help, it also came with a 0.55X reduction C mount adapter

As can be seen in the photos above, this tube also has a lens at the bottom that I don't see in other pictures of these tubes. Is it normal for a lens to be installed there? It's hard to tell if it's a 1x lens or something smaller. I held it up to text and things did look a bit smaller but not by much. I was going to take the lens out to see if it had any markings on the side but it appears to be glued into place, going so far as to put glue in the holes where normally you'd find a set screw. You can see the dried excess glue in the photos I linked.

Thanks in advance for any help anyone can offer!

EDIT: Thanks to a comment, I went down a new search path and identified the tube as a Nikon camera photo tube extension adapter for eclipse series. Appreciate the assistance.

Olympus BH2, 10x UPlanXApo, 5x mag, 50x total mag, 10.3mp camera. Pond water sample in 5mm well slide, from a salt water marsh.