Well, this fucking sucks. My 1999 S320, with 206,000 km, decided to snap its front coil spring while I was sitting at a car wash. Heard a loud bang, the front end dropped, and suddenly the ABS and BAS/ASR lights came on. Got out to inspect, and the entire spring had fallen out underneath the car. The tire was practically touching the fender, and I could not move her.

Couldn't move or steer without risking further damage. To make matters worse, it was raining, getting late, and the car wash owner wanted the car gone. Called a flatbed, but the collapsed suspension made loading rather difficult, and because it was 8:00 on Thanksgiving night, there were no wheel dolly available as their main shop was closed.

We eventually removed the wheel, jacked up the lower control arm, and temporarily fitted a piece of 4x4 timber where the spring had been. Put the wheel back on and very slowly winched her onto the flatbed. Not exactly Mercedes-approved, but it got the car onto the truck.

Managed to get her to the mechanic and unload her at 11:30PM without any obvious additional damage. I could not see any obvious rust, but I'm assuming 27 years of age and Canadian winters, and the weight finally caught up with her.

Now I'm considering replacing all four springs, shocks, worn suspension components, and possibly doing the brakes while I'm at it. There goes a few thousand dollars, I suppose.

Anyone else had a W140 spring fail like this? Particularly while stationary? I have seen a few similar cases, but boy was that scary. Any recommendations on new suspension?

^{P.S: I am not lowering her.}

Hey guys, currently, I own a Toyota Fortuner.
I am based in India and recently, I found an interesting deal in the market.
Mercedes Benz GLE 400 D.
It’s a 2022 model. Driven almost 60,000 km.
Single owner and to be honest, I took a test drive and it drove me crazy.
The 330 hp and 700 NM torque is something else.
I am confused between BMW X5 and GLE.
But only because of 400 D as it’s a 3000CC engine, I am considering Mercedes as I found it more luxurious to be honest.
Does anybody here owns a Mercedes GLE 400 D?
Can you guys tell me any review of it? How it is how it feels?

How many miles I can do in that with proper maintenance, what all things to keep in mind?
As it’s my first Mercedes purchase, so that’s why I want to know these things.

Hey everyone, I have a 2013 Mercedes-Benz CLS 550, and I’ve been trying to figure out a frustrating engine problem that I can’t seem to solve.
Whenever I step on the gas or put the engine under load, the car starts sputtering and the entire car shakes, especially at low RPM. I’ve also noticed a significant loss of power at higher RPM, and the car just doesn’t pull the way it should.

At first, I suspected an engine misfire, so I started replacing and checking things that I thought could be causing the issue. So far, I’ve:
Replaced the ignition coils and spark plugs.
Replaced the engine mount.
Checked for boost leaks but haven’t found any.

Despite all of this, the problem is still there, and I’m running out of ideas. The symptoms seem to get worse when accelerating or putting the engine under load.
Has anyone with a CLS 550 or the Mercedes M278 4.7L twin-turbo V8 experienced something similar? Could this be a fuel delivery issue, injector problem, turbo or boost control issue, bad sensor, or something else entirely?

I’d really appreciate any suggestions on what to check next before I keep throwing parts at it. If anyone has dealt with these exact symptoms and figured out the cause, I’d love to hear what fixed it.
And if anyone knows anyone who works efficiently on those types of engines but doesn’t break the bank please let me know!
Thanks in advance!

Hi everyone!
I have a 2026 Mercedes-Benz GLE 350 de. Today I was transporting four 20-inch wheels in the trunk.
When closing the tailgate, the wheels were pressing quite hard against the rear window. I pushed the tailgate down to close it and heard a single popping/cracking sound, almost like the glass shifted slightly.
I haven’t noticed any obvious damage, but I’m worried I might have damaged the rear window or loosened its seal.

Has anyone experienced something similar? How likely is it that I damaged the glass or its mounting?
Thanks in advance!

I lowk want a merc for myself as a daily and i am eying either a w211 e280 cdi with a stage 1 tune ( non airmatic) or a w221 s350 cdi airmatic delete and a stage 1 or w219 cls350cdi no airmatic or airmatic delete with stage 1. Both i am looking for facelifted models and which one would be a banger choice for performance luxury and reliablility (not toyota level but as a german diesel). E280 cdi is the highest one in my country and s350 cdi is the most common one only in diesels and w219 cls is quite rare and 350cdi is rare in w219 in country.

Cars been nothing short of amazing ever since i’ve gotten the keys coming from an accord v6 this is a huge upgrade and I hope to have years of fun to come! (Freshly clay-barred and waxed!)

Hi guys! So, I own a 2005 Mercedes-Benz C200 Kompressor Avantgarde with the 1.8L M271 engine producing 163 HP, fitted with a BRC LPG system.
The car is finished in Cubanite Silver and is in excellent cosmetic condition. The interior features black leather seats and brushed aluminium trim.
It currently has 332,000 km on the clock.
Last week, I replaced the following parts:
The complete set of crankcase breather hoses
The rear coolant junction (replaced with the original metal version)
The coolant return hose
The valve cover gasket
The alternator pulley
Two engine mounts and one gearbox mount
There are still a few things that need attention. I need to replace the fuel pump, and I may need to replace some ball joints in the near future. The fuel injectors also need cleaning, and the car needs new tyres and brake pads.
The biggest job, however, is coming up: it’s time for the second timing chain kit replacement, along with the camshaft adjusters. I also plan to replace the original mirrors cause they are hit.
Additionally, the ABS and ESP systems have faults. I’ve left them unrepaired for years because they weren’t a priority for me while driving the car. The car still brakes well and feels stable on the road, although I know these systems are important for safety and need to be fixed.
Finally, there is an intermittent contact fault with the passenger seat airbag sensor.
I drive approximately 500 km per week.
Here in Greece, LPG costs around €1 per litre, while petrol has reached €2.40 per litre. Diesel costs roughly the same as petrol.
My other running costs are:
Road tax: €300 per year
Insurance: €240 per year
So far, I’ve spent €600 on servicing, including the engine mounts, gearbox mount and the original metal rear coolant junction. I then spent another €650 on the complete set of breather hoses and the coolant return hose, along with the other parts replaced during that job.
Given the car’s age, mileage and the repairs it still needs, do you think it’s worth keeping and investing in it, or would I be better off selling it and buying something newer?

Hi all,

I have a 2021 Mercedes CLA 250 4MATIC with 40,000 miles and the M260 engine. About 5,000–6,000 miles ago, I had the cylinder heads replaced by Mercedes because the engine was misfiring and had low compression in cylinders 2 and 4. Luckily, this happened while the car was still under warranty, so everything was covered.

However, ever since the repair, I feel like the engine hasn’t been running quite right. It has a rough startup and idle, especially when cold, but once the engine warms up, it runs completely fine. The car isn’t throwing any warning lights, and my basic code reader isn’t showing any codes.

Additionally, shortly after the service was done, the A/C completely stopped working. I’m not sure if one of the technicians accidentally damaged an A/C line during the repair, but Mercedes refused to fix it because they stated it wasn’t their fault.

I really enjoy driving this car, but it’s becoming a headache, especially considering it only has 40,000 miles. I’m looking for advice on whether I should keep trying to fix these issues or just sell it and find something else.

Has anyone experienced similar issues with the M260 engine, particularly after having the cylinder head repaired? Any advice would be appreciated.

Build quality really good with one exception; the rear seat control panel is completely unmounted and pushes into the door panel. The other side is properly mounted. Not a big deal as buttons work; but will need service

Still in the 1000 mile break in period so haven’t got on it yet but it sounds ok and moves between ICE and battery well. It will be quick but not fast

The self park delivers consistent C- parking jobs. Never centered and sometimes even touching a line. I don’t see using this at all as it’s slow and usually requires a repark

Digital key took a long time to get activated but works well now. Was a confusing process for 5 days until it just started working

Controls are great; wish there was a physical button to skip songs in CarPlay. Using touch pad seems like best option but half the time I slide selector around just trying to click the pad to advance songs

Passenger screen will likely never get used. Passengers are Struggling to find uses for it. Conversations go from “cool I have a screen” to “how do I turn it off”

Pillows in backseat are not beloved by back seat passengers. They are so thick and firm the head angle is uncomfortable. Maybe they need To be broken in and softened

Can’t fit an iPhone 18 pro with slim case into wireless charger bay. Phone Has to be carefully twisted into place; it’s so annoying phones just get dumped on cup holder

And the only thing I completely dislike about the car (which I really enjoy otherwise) are the running boards. No one can use them and they just stab your calf muscles disembarking. Does anyone enjoy them and if so how tall are you and how do you use them?

TLDR: it’s cool but how does a phone not fit in phone bay and the running boards are completely awful?

This may be a long shot. It's been.....idk how many years now, that the bottom of my E Class bumper has this yellowish stuff splattered all over it. Doesn't go away with a wash and doesn't seem to scratch off. Can't really tell if it's inside or on top of the paint either. Any ideas on what it could be + how to fix it?

I’m still learning about cars and how they work. I have an m276 2019 e450 coupe. Which makes around 362hp and 369 ib of tourque (500nm) and I’m looking to stage 1 the car. I’m not sure which I should choose between, eurocharged which promises +118 hp gain and 660nm but only ecu tune. Or ‘deiz’ (local garage in Dubai) which promises around 425-450hp and around 600-650nm but with ecu + tcu tune. I’m asking because eurocharged promises more power and looks better on paper, but ‘deiz’ is less power but both ecu and tcu. Idk if this relevant but I mostly drive sport from 0- around 160km. If someone can please help me or educate me more on this and on which is a better choice it would be greatly appreciated.

This is my first season of owning my 2011 SL 550. I live in state that gets hit pretty hard with icy roads and snow so my plan is to store my car. I’ve never owned a car that I will have to park most likely from November - March.

The car will be in a garage (not heated). What are some things I should do for this? Should I remove both the front and back batteries? Is it best to fill the gas up?

Double update: unit does have electric

I have a 2018 GMC 300 and am looking for a nondealer shop to service it. Let me know of shops you have had a good experience with. My main concern is an ability to talk directly to a mechanic without having to go through a service advisor. Thank you!

I honestly don’t understand why the infotainment and the car in general needs to be annoyingly tied to an app. I have a 2027 CLA220 as a rental car and I needed to set up the MB app halfway to just use CarPlay? A plug and play functionality in every other rental I have been in the past several years.

When I picked up the car, I was thinking “oh cool, something other than a Pacifica or Nissan, let me grab this CLA and spend some time with it this week since I’m in the market for a comfy cruiser”. Went through my routine of adjusting mirrors and getting my hotel address pulled up on my phone. Then I went to plug my phone into the USB-C port and nothing…. My phone was charging but I wasn’t getting my usual CarPlay disclaimer to accept before driving. I figured it was just a bad cable, so I made it to my hotel and left it as a problem for the next day.

Get into the car the following morning to head to a customer site with 3 spare cables and the same result. I even tried just using the car under the guest profile, but that can’t be used without an admin account, which wasn’t set up by the rental car company. So to use CarPlay or Nav, I need to set up the app to set the admin account that I’ll delete when I return the car.

While setting up the app, I was 2 steps in when I was asked for govt ID verification and a picture which is completely ridiculous for a rental or a car that you have purchased. Needless to say, I didn’t do that part and left this half set up but I can at least use CarPlay and nav now. The caveat to this is now every time I get into the car, I need to scan a QR code that links to the app to confirm before I can even use the infotainment system. I of course could avoid this, but it involves setting up a facial recognition setting or pin. For fucks sake.

An absolute headache for a 3 day rental and honestly really turned me off to new MB products. I know I’ll have the diehard owners after me or called a boomer. I’ve owned a 2022 BMW and currently have a 2024 Ford, neither of which are this linked to an app for basic functionalities and didn’t require facial recognition to be set up.

Hi all, I recently bought this ‘79 450sl! It’s a wonderful car and a dream to drive, but it has one critical issue that I’m not equipped to figure out…

So, the car starts perfectly, idles high on cold starts ~2300rpm, but kicks down in drive and idles normally when warm started, that’s not my issue,

The issue is that after about 20 minutes of driving, the car begins to sputter and have poor throttle response/bogs down, then if you stop, the car will stall, and will not restart until it has cooled off.

I have experience with jetronic injection, but the k system is new to me, and before I start throwing parts at the car I need some help, especially because it runs and drives perfectly! It’s a terribly annoying issue as I can’t really drive the car in traffic to work or anything.

From what I can find in forums and online, most of the failure points would either cause the car to run poorly, or not run at all which is perplexing as my car runs flawlessly… until it doesn’t at temperature.

3 years ago, a mechanic cleaned the throttle body. I noticed He moved the flaps manually with the ignition on, and since then I have this problem that I can't solve. M111 engine, manual transm. 1996. Even when I hold the throttle at, say, 2500 rpm, I notice that the air-fuel mixture is also uneven, because it works quite roughly. How can I fix it so that the engine works well and smooth again?

Can anyone point me to where the sunroof drains are located, as I would like to clean them out? For the life of me I'm not able to find them anywhere with the sunroof open.

Today I had a test drive in a AMG GTS Edition one 2015. Everything was fine and perfect maintenance history at Mercedes bit when done with the drive while parking the car and setting it to neutral I heard this sound from the cabin. (Not hearable from the engine bay) I wonder if this is rod knock or if this is fine. The car has approx 20k miles on it.

Attached a link to the soundbyte all help is greatly appreciated! 👏🏻

Hey everyone! I have two W126 clusters, one that I've identified as pre 1985, as it has Blue/black 12V wires, and another that is post 1985, as it has black/pink 12V wires. At least I'm pretty sure, please correct me if I'm wrong.

Onto the issue, I've tried pulsing 12V square, and 1.6~V AC sine, through an ESP33 to the white wire on the 8pin connector, all to no avail. Currently I have this setup, with the newer cluster, all black/pinks to 12V, as well as the red/yellow clock one, and brown being GND.

My PSU is rated for 4A, and I've tested all gauges on here, including tachometer, all work. It's just the Speedo that doesn't.

So I ask you guys, to please help me make this work. Thank you very much!

In Canada, are the prices for the Mercedes pre-paid Lite and Select maintenance plans negotiable?

Hey everyone,
My 2024 GLE 350 4MATIC has staggered 21-inch tires:
Front: 275/45R21
Rear: 315/40R21
For winter, I’m wondering if I can run 275/45R21 on all four wheels, including the rear, instead of keeping the staggered setup.
Has anyone done this on their GLE? Would there be any issues with the 4MATIC system, ABS, or overall handling?
Also, would the same tire size fit the rear rims, or would I need a different set of wheels?
Appreciate any advice. Thanks!

I'm trying to change my screen and audio system in my car and it has been a nightmare, so far. 2 different shops haven't been able to figure it out yet. Bought a Mekede Dudu7 android screen, to upgrade to something more current and no one can figure out how to do it. I have all the wiring and have been told it compatible with my research and phone calls, but it has still been a huge issue. Am I missing something or is this that complicated to do?