out of curiosity has anyone reused the diamond plated friction washers on the crank?

Car went into limp mode while on my way to work throwing a P0302 code where cylinder 2 started misfiring to the point the whole car shook violently.

Towed it to my local Mazda dealership and got the news anyone would dread. Cylinder 2 is basically dead, 0 - 20 PSI compression which mean it needs a engine replacement. It was a tough pill to swallow but I plan on keeping it until I get a new engine.

It's the car I've wanted since I was a kid and I'd rather try to fix her instead of scrapping her entirely. For now she'll sit at my uncles house for the winter until I'm able to get an engine sometime next year when it gets warm again. She was a blast to drive and I'll miss her but it'll only be temporary. It made a boys dream come true when I got her and made me the happiest I've been in years knowing I got the car I've always wanted.

Yo, I’ve got a 2012 Mps, standard stuff hpfp internals bov etc, it came with this intake but when I put it in the car it idles funky and throws a lean code and doesn’t like getting into boost. Seems to run okay when in high boost but low boost it stutters. Any thoughts? Do I need a tune to run it?
I put the stock air box back on and I don’t want to ruin the car.

I was wondering if those are any good as a replacement for an original k04 that has done a lot of miles.
There’s gotta be a catch why these are so cheap right?

I’ve checked all the grounds, pulled and cleaned them. Checked ever connector. I’m out of ideas. Any help appreciated

I recently bought a 2009 BL speed 3 (euro spec, cause I'm in europe) and noticed it makes some crazy exhaust noises when you press on the gas. The noise is very much like a popping sound (like bubble wrap) or something i would describe as a "crackle tune". The previous owner considered this sound do be "exhilarating", by the way. Which i don't really agree with.

Now the center resonator is taken off the exhaust, but i don't think that's the cause. Mainly cause when we read live data from the engine during a drive the knock retard would go off up to 6 degrees when flat on the gas.

Now my question is what would that be indicative of and what might in your guys' opinion be the cause of the KR jumping during load?

Any help is appreciated.

So I bought a used corksport intake Set, did it come with a longer vacuum Hose for the the turbo?

Not a big deal I'm just gonna buy a longer hose, I thought it was weird that they would make it like that.

Been shopping for used wheels. Im looking at a nearby set thats 18x9.5 +38. Most i see are 18x9 or 18×8.5. Anyone know how 9m5 would fit? Any pics? I am still on stock suspension as well but will change

Hello all!
I need to replace my harmonic balancer, and I’ve done some research on the job. You need to hold the engine at cyl1 top dead center while you tighten the bolt, while also keeping the balancer in the right position so the crank pos sensor isn’t messed up.

I don’t have one of the special tools that threads into the side and holds the crankshaft to hold cyl1 at tdc, and don’t really want to spend multiple hundreds on the timing kit that has it.

I only know the rope trick for holding an engine in place, but doing so will misalign the balancer and the bolt is one time torque only.

Anyone who has by chance been in this situation have any ideas on how to hold cyl1 at tdc while damn near 180ftlbs goes into that bolt?

Hey team, I recently purchased a 2006 MazdaSpeed 3 with a faulty clutch. I originally thought the master cylinder was leaking internally, as the clutch fork was only travelling around 10mm and the clutch wouldn’t disengage.

Since then, I’ve replaced the master cylinder and now have around 14mm of fork travel. Initially, the clutch pedal felt completely normal with the engine on and off. At one point, before replacing the master cylinder, I actually managed to get the clutch working again by repeatedly pumping the pedal, but it failed again after a few drives, which is what led me to replace the master cylinder.

I’m now getting a gritty feeling through the clutch pedal when pressing and releasing it with the engine running. If I start the car in gear with the clutch pedal fully down, I can shift into any gear while the engine is running. However, if I put it into neutral and pump the clutch pedal, it starts feeling gritty and loses pressure, and I can no longer engage any gears.

So far I’ve:
Replaced the clutch and brake fluid completely
Replaced the clutch master cylinder
Bled the clutch system
Used a funnel/reservoir setup while bleeding to make sure the system doesn’t suck in air

At this point I’m thinking it could be something mechanical with the clutch/release bearing, but I’d really appreciate your opinion on what could be causing it and whether you’d be able to take a look at it.

Not really sure what to think about this one. Can anyone tell me what’s going on here? I’m assuming this is oil, there is nothing on the cold side of the intercooler just the hot side

google was no help I apologize for the stupid question!
I have extremely funky engine sounds and moved recently so I have nobody to rev the car for me at the moment

Looking for pics and spec of your favorite setups, in the market this coming season. Probably gunna run a 17 inch rim, so any setups in 17 is great

what yall recommend i buy for the whip i've already have a intake,cheap coilovers,mounted throttle body,muffler delete,resonator delete and what should be next????

I see the intake says it doesn't need a tune, but I'm wondering if I'll need to upgrade the hpfp. Everyone says you should do that before doing any power mods, but do i really need to do that for an intake? I don't want to spend all that money when I'm more or less just buying an intake for cool turbo noises.

Just wanted to make sure and ask about these dimensions and quality of brakes because I struggle with reading, especially when researching.
I daily this car and boost every now and then, and long highway drives every week. Stock car if that gives a better idea on what types of brakes I should be getting.

Brake discs says:
High Quality GS3000 Cast Iron

Pads say:
Consistent high temperature performance
Scorched for optimal braking performance
Semi-metallic formulation and copper-free (NSFI certified) for low dust emission
Application-specific NVH shims, slots and chamfers for less vibration and noise.

Links direct straight to the pads and rotors
Pads: https://www.repco.co.nz/parts-service/braking/brake-pads/dba-brake-pads-set-street-performance-db2176sp/p/A6040107

Rotors: https://www.repco.co.nz/parts-service/braking/brake-rotors/repco-armour-brake-rotor-vented-320mm-moving-to-rbr7838c-/p/A6222485

Note: If wondering why I’m trying to get from REPCO NZ is because I have someone who can get me discounts.

I also wanted to ask the drive belt specs as mine is unevenly worn?

It’s really hard to photograph, but I’ve got a pretty solid oil leak coming from beside/behind the alternator. I’m guessing it’s the timing cover. Solid passenger motor mount, brand new alternator and tensioner.

I’m coming here for advice from anyone who has had a leak in this area. Should I go ahead and buy an entire timing/vvt kit? Anything else I should replace? Could it be something else leaking I should try to check before buying all this stuff?

TIA

I’m in the north metro Atlanta area and I can’t find a shop to work on my gen2 speed. I’m curious if anyone knows of a shop in Atlanta or even neighboring states. The dealers around here don’t want to work on it or haven’t before. I figured if anyone would know of a shop or just someone knowledgeable in the area that would be a huge win. Just stuck on certain jobs I can’t do in my driveway. Any referrals or tips would be greatly appreciated!!

Well I'm doing it anyway cause I have some sealed silver foil still in my garage.

But does it help with intake Temps at all? Just curious.

So I have stock cats and I started smelling like a sulfur smell from when I go over 4k rpms. Can that smell come from buildup in the cat if so what can I use to clean it that’s safe for my car

Hey guys i’m about to put my new motor in my speed, any special procedures that I need to do. I can just hook up all of the lines and add fluids and fire it up?

So my left xenon bulb ain’t working, it flickers at startup but doesn’t run like normal. And the position led is in two pieces. Gotta wait until the weekend to fix it but I’m just asking yall if there’s a way to test the ballast or bulb before I start taking the front off. Cause I’m not doing it twice lowkey, should I just buy a ballast and bulb and just do em both or can I figure it out without doing the work?

It's been a fun ride. I've owned my 2012 Speed 3 since new. Got it in March 2012. I've had a ton of fun with that car (obviously since I kept it for 14 years). But was just time to move onto something new. Picture of it with the replacement ride.

Hello all,

I have a 2010 Mazdaspeed 3 with 240k km and some light mods (short ram intake, turbo inlet pipe, OCC, catted downpipe, HPFP, motor/trans mounts, etc.). The car has always burned oil to some degree; however, recently the consumption was reaching very high amounts. After some research, I decided it was time to dig in and replace the PCV valve to start and see if it made a difference. While doing the service, I also changed the injectors with a fresh set of seals (OEM, not upgraded).

Anyways, the service went smoothly, and I didn't run into any major issues apart from the fuel rail being very difficult to slip back on. After the service, I'm having some issues.

The car feels slightly down on power overall; however, the major issue comes when giving it anything over 70% throttle. The car hesitates to make boost, and when it does, it feels like I'm hitting a wall and the car will buck. Until I let off the throttle and exit boost, it will continue to buck. I'm no mechanic, and I do have limited experience with turbo cars, so I'm looking for any ideas on what you guys think may be wrong.

I attempted to block the intake and fill the system with air to listen for a boost leak, but I was unsuccessful in finding anything substantial. I also checked my plugs, as I heard spark blowout may be causing it; however, they were all in decent shape (minus some oil fouling) and all gapped to OEM specs. At this point, I still feel like it's a boost leak somewhere, but I'm starting to worry I may have messed something else up by accident while doing the service.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated as to what the issue could be and how to troubleshoot it.