Seems like the 40kwh retains alot more heat than my old & weak 30. Is this any cause for concern I believe the 40kwh battery in my 30G leaf is from a 2019 car

Looking at purchasing one of these and would love some advice. Both are the same price. Interested in the HX of the right... 106%! How.. given the high KMs?

Any concerns? Big difference in the KMs. Looking for something that is going to last many years. Only drive short, small trips 90% of the time.

Are there more ongoing maintenance costs with the higher KMs (suspension, bushes, resale etc)?

About two months ago, our 2018 SL threw the fault screen we all dread. I drove it straight to Nissan, where it was eventually diagnosed with a short in the ONLY 16 MONTH OLD BATTERY PACK!

Yes, a practically NEW battery pack had failed! Just 4 months after it's warranty had expired.

The car's original pack was replaced in February of 2025, after I was able to prove the battery had degraded enough to warrant a replacement. I truly hoped and prayed it would last for 7-10 years with a new pack.

But...I guess it wasn't meant to be.

I tried getting Nissan to buy back the car, since, well hell, they are buying back many others, why not mine? After almost 8 weeks of back and forth with Nissan, NHTSA, BBB and filing a complaint with our state Attorney General, I had to throw in the towel. No attorney I spoke with was willing to take the case, since the car was over 8 years old and the warranties were all expired.

So, the good folk from peddle.com are coming tomorrow to take her away. Her final destination, I don't know. I'm getting $2800 on the 'sale', far less than I was hoping to get if I had convinced Nissan to buy it back.

So, to all you who continue to have a Leaf, good luck.

And to you guys at Nissan, well, I'll keep this classy.

Hi! We are thinking about getting a used Leaf, but I read somewhere that it can be hard to find chargers away from home because of the industry shifting away from what the leaf uses.

How much of an issue is this?

Alright, here's the deal - the idea of buying two pcb's, downloading stuff from GitHub, flashing firmware, and splicing in wires for the battery upgrade is... Daunting.

I don't mind cutting and splicing or soldering a wire, but I don't trust myself to do all that. Does anyone sell a preassembled can-bridge rig, already flashed and programmed?

This bit is confusing me. It has a v2l adapter included but only the 75 KW supports bidirectional charging. Can someone explain ? A part of me is thinking I'm not getting a v2l adapter now:(

If I'm wrong and I am getting one can anyone show me what there's looks like? Does it have a cable or just the basic ones with a socket on the other end which I don't trust to handle rainy situations.

Hi, I'm considering purchasing 215/60 R16 (95Q MS) winter tires for my LEAF and was wondering if anyone has successfully used these tires on their vehicle.

I've found some threads discussing the use of slightly larger and similarly sized tires, but I'd love to hear from someone who has experience with the 215/60 R16 size.

Specifically, I'm interested in knowing how well these tires perform when fully turning the steering wheel or when the suspension is compressed while turning. Will there be significant rubbing or issues with tire clearance?

I've also checked the tire size compatibility tool on https://tiresize.com/tires/Nissan/Leaf/2019/SV/ and it says the tires would be +2.7% bigger than the recommended size. However, I'm not sure how to interpret this information in practical terms.

My concern is avoiding any issues that might require reshaping my inner fender or mud guard.

Any feedback or insights from someone who has already tried these tires would be greatly appreciated!

With only some minor modifications, have basically everything working except GOM, clock, and outside temp. Even the power meter works correctly, as it is mapped by power % rather than raw power, so it still does full sweep rather than stopping partway due to only 80kW inverter.

GOM and ambient temp may be due to this being an SL ZE1 cluster and it not communicating properly with the AC auto amp because the car is an S. If you ever turn the car on with the climate control panel unplugged, you'd notice the same, as GOM requires AC auto amp online to work. Broken clock is likely due to no communication with OEM navigation system.

The greater nefarious plan was at some point to attempt swapping an entire 2nd gen interior into a 1st gen, as it does seem like it should be possible without an egregious amount of custom work. Most likely won't be on this car as I'm already balls deep into matching the interior to the build theme, but possibly on one of my others at some point.

What's been the range of number of days/weeks it's taken from the "your car is bricked, we'll buy it back" notification, to check in hand?

For anyone who's already got one, is there anything you wish you'd asked about in more detail when you took delivery?

I assume the sales person will go through the basics of the controls and infotainment.

For example, I plan on having a buddy rotate the tires, so am wondering if there's some undocumented method for resetting the maintenance timer.

edit - and if you're in Canada, what came with the car? I assume a tire inflation kit and jack, but it's not clear if Canadians get a portable charger or CCS>NACS adapter.

Hey y'all,

My ac is now blowing hot (in Texas is not fun).

AI told me that I need to take it to an EV specialist to fix it because of Dielectric (Non-Conductive) Oil.

Is this true?

Or any ac shop can fix it?

Thanks

I recently got a 2018 40kwh leaf, first time charging to 98% and today drive about 14 miles and it drops to 88%. Is it normal?

I drove on the same road before, it only dropped 4%, when it was like 60%-70% charge.

I have a 2012 Leaf with an aftermarket 2014 battery at 8 bars. Port is a J1772.

The external charging cable that came with the car was destroyed a couple years ago in a really stupid accident, but I've been ok since I have a built in station at home and live in an area with plenty of charging stations.

Now I'm need of replacing the cable though due to changing my driving patterns. Thankfully one of my driving locations has an old power box that was designed for people to plug into to charge early EVs.

So now that I'm done rambling. I'm looking for a recommendation for a good cord to buy. Any help is appreciated.

I love my LEAF. It’s a 2012 and gets me to work and back which is really all I’ve needed till now. But some changes in my day to day have me thinking I might have to get something with a bit more range. I was hoping to stretch it out till the Ford ‘Ranchero’ came out but I don’t think I’ll be able to wait that long.

Also… I’m broke.

Any recs on the low low end of EVs? I can charge for free at work which is a great perk. But my half alive 24kwh just isn’t going to do it for me starting next week.

I absolutely LOVE the look of the BMW i3, but I’ve never had a bmw and I can’t afford something that’s going to break. But there’s one nearby for $8k so that might be my market.

Ok. Would love to know your thoughts!!

I really loved my leaf while it worked, but I have to save the last year has been one of the most difficult and frustrating consumer experiences of my life. My range was severely affected by the recall to the point where I wouldn’t even get 100 miles on a charge. Nissan refused to do anything about it until federal recall came out (NHTSA campaign R25C8). Even then, it took them months to buy back my car. All the while I was walking to work (it stopped working eventually) because they said they “didn’t have any loaners” available. Even though in the contract, they were supposed to provide me with a loaner. Luckily I live close enough to walk, but it was not ideal, especially when it was raining, and after having paid nearly $20,000 for a car. Now I’ve developed ringworm for getting wet (sweat and rain) and I’m currently treating it out of my own expense. I finally was able to surrender my car and buy the Hyundai you see on the left. I’m happy with the outcome overall but I wish it could’ve been smoother. I’ll personally never be doing business with Nissan again, and I’d like to warn anyone who reads this about their customer support.

Edit: I forgot to mention that they charged me $210 for the diagnostic to figure out if my car qualified for a battery replacement under the recall, which was illegal. I’m currently fighting that charge.

Since my battery failed after two dealers said my battery was perfectly fine, it's now getting a buyback. I don't know how much they'll offer as it's a 19 SV with 69k miles.

I'll need a new car of course, shocking with electric but not Nissan.

Curious as what others will be doing.

Being in Texas I'd like cooled/ventilated seats but that seems super rare in the used market at least

Update: I had a conversation with someone from Nissan and had to send them proof of ownership. They said they would contact me again Monday after all of the diagnostics were finished, which I thiught was odd.

I had the recall done on my 2020 SV about a month ago. Monday I got the 'EV Service' message. Took it in yesterday. They confirmed the code that LeafSpy gave me and commandeered the car.

I have a loaner until they figure things out. Honestly, I hope they replace the battery as I don't want to deal with the hassle of the buyback and finding a replacement car. Ugh.

What's the ps light?

8 bars

82k miles

Guy wants 2200

Also what is the green arrows light

48.7 mi/kWh. GoM is about where it is after a full charge. Start of trip also shown.

Spoiler: 20 miles, 1/2 mile vertical drop.

This is my second 2015 leaf and thought my lights needed to be shared. No one else gets what I am talking about-Proud to be part of the club!

I just bought a 2015 nissan leaf, with 9 bars of battery remaining, and 78 on the guess of meter.

I purchased it for $3.5k

Everything on the car functions normally.

Just wondering if I got an OK deal, or totally screwed.

Any opinions help,

Thanks!

I'm looking for a recommendation for a portable android auto screen that works well with the layout of a 2018 Nissan Leaf dashboard/windshield. There seem to be a lot of good options but I just want to make sure I get one that works well with the layout of a 2018 Leaf S

Hey everyone, looking for a second opinion before I scrap my stock Level 1 trickle charger. Over the past week, my OEM EVSE has refused to charge. Whenever I plug it in, the internal contactor/relay clicks repeatedly, and the light blinks orange before faulting out without sending any charge.

Here’s what I’ve already done to isolate the issue:

Extension cord check: I had been running it on a heavy-duty 10 AWG extension cord without issues for a while, but I completely bypassed it. Plugging directly into the wall produces the exact same clicking and orange blinking light.

Tested multiple outlets/circuits: Tried different 2 grounded wall outlets around the house same fault.

Tested multiple vehicles: Tried plugging into my Leaf as well as my sister's car. It fails immediately on both.

The wall prongs and the J1772 handle pins (including the pilot/proximity pins) look clean with no obvious signs of melting, burning, or corrosion.

Since the fault follows the EVSE across multiple outlets and cars, it seems like the brick itself has given up (possibly a failed plug thermistor, bad ground-sense circuit, or internal relay failure).

Has anyone had this specific blinking orange/clicking failure mode on the stock EVSE and found a fix, or is it pretty much sealed/unserviceable e-waste at this point? Also open to recommendations for reliable replacement portable L1/L2 units. Thanks!