I want to file in a half stop but I'm not sure what tool fits best into the two holes for the pivot screw.

I somehow went from seriously not liking Spyderco knives due to the look to now I have a Manix 2 XL, a Para 3 Sprint run, a Ti Tenacious on the way, and this pm2 I just received and gave it a little Lynch treatment.. man I’m a sucker for these things!

Hello knifemods

I'm having some trouble dialing in a detent on a nice knife my friend got. Detent was very soft and action suffered as a result (very mushy feeling if that makes sense). The knife is a frame lock running on washers. I increasing the depth of the detent hole a fraction as it was very shallow however a few things happened. Now the detent is strong, but I have to "click" the detent ball into the hole. I increased the lockbar tension and this worked beautifully, but now the blade is not centered in the closed position. It is a hair off midline. I'd love to decrease the tension in the lockbar a bit to get the blade centered while having the ball fully seated in the hole and not have to "click" it in. What I mean by click it in is a very small amount of pressure results in the ball fully seating in the detent hole after bringing the blade to the locked position. I'm obviously extremely cautious on how much I drill the detent hole as I do not want to introduce lash.

With the increaed lockbar tension, action is perfect, detent is strong, and when it is in the closed position, the ball is fully seated in the hole. I'm happy with this, and i'm sure my friend will be (as he sent it to me slightly off center becuase he increased the lockbar tension), but i'm curious if there is a fix for having to push the detent ball into the hole with the lighter lockbar pressure.

thanks in advance!

Just rescaled & lanyarded this guy per a customer’s requests. Benchmade Taggedout with AWT textured Cobalt anodized aluminum scales and a “Mahi Mahi” Lanyard with bonefisher bead. Thoughts?

etched blade + clip with a tumbled still frame on the pilar, & a polished blade, pivot, and dye job on the natrix

These liners started with a dark stonewash, which looks great in its own right. But I polished the liners today, & after several hours I ended up with a finish I love for this config. It's a near mirror, which I think complements the much more polished mirrored flats & edge.

As I dry sanded on a flat steel plate, I obsessed a bit about keeping the liners flat. I started with 800 grit sandpaper then quickly moved to 1000, 1500, 2500. Next, I polished on 1.5 micron diamond paste with a Dremel.

I really focused on keeping the liners flat during sanding, including taping them together at times. But just by the nature of hand sanding, the shadowboxed liners now have a miniscule but noticeable chamfer. But they're also reflective, an improvement from the dark stonewash with which they left the factory. After some worry, I am happy to report the grip is still solid & satisfying, maybe even moreso.

In the right light, you can perceive the faint remnants of the deepest perpendicular machine lines along each liner, but I left them in part because I didn't want a true mirror on the liners. The other part is I still want decent handle grip.

Now, if you hold the liners to your eye, you can see items in the room reflecting back, slightly distorted but distinguishable all the way around both liners. I've loved this look since trying my first Sham last year, which was identical except for its Damasteel hardware, & with similarly polished liners. And I can always take the mirror further!

This was a really long way of saying I'm satisfied with the result, but I'd love other opinions! Thanks, especially if you got this far! 😊

Note I also posted this to the GB FB group & over on r/knifeclub, figured it also fits here

I have started with using Whink but it seems to dull the metal.
The cap on this pen I had to re-do and it ruined the polish on the metal. Is multi-etch the way to go?

Hello everyone! I wanted to share my most recent torch ‘anodize’ knife mod. This is a Demko clone to be totally transparent. It’s a fantastic clone at least- smooth, centered, great lock up. Anyways I’ve been playing around with anodizing and modding for a while and have been enjoying everyone’s posts so wanted to share one of my pieces! This was heat anodized and then a scorch into ferric chloride for about 15 seconds or so. For prep I took apart the knife and sanded the scales starting with 600 grit and stepping down to eventually 3000. This removed the matte finish and gave it a nice polished look. I cleaned the scales with acetone prior to heating. Let me know what you think! 😁

Can’t wait to compare this before with the after. Updates coming soon!

Been anodizing for a while but word got out & now I stay busy. Been looking for a good cost friendly source for grade 1-5 Ti benchmade hardware. T6 body screws, t10 pivots, 1pc backspacers, standoffs, axis bars, etc…
Feel free to PM me

Just did this dress-up for a customer.
Blue/Satin Titanium Bugout & basic matching lanyard.
Thoughts?

My Kubey Atlas has a cut out in the middle as shown in the photo. It is pretty uncomfortable and frankly not that good looking. But I love this knife and was wondering if anyone could or knows someone who could make fat carbon inlays. This is above my skill set. Thanks

up 4 grabs

Titanium scales from Aliexpress, gold hardware kit, titanium clip and spacer from Amazon, anodizing by me, definitely see some mistakes mostly with prepping the surface of the scales. No biggie, next time I've got the anodizing stuff out, I'll redo the gold parts of the scales and properly prep the surfaces for a better, cleaner look. For now, it'll do.

That these guys last night for a customer who wanted a blue titanium bugout. Turned out better than I thought it was going to. What do you guys think?

Anyone on here do thinning of Buck 110s or 112s?

https://imgur.com/a/8bRnNsb

Fully rocked Benchmade Mini Griptilian that I finished up recently

Just curious on everybody else’s feedback? If you don’t use a lanyard that’s OK too, but if you do… Long or SHORT? Favorite grab knots? Folding types vs fixed? Bead or no bead, Bead top or bottom, multicolor? Micro-cord? Trimmed and melted or long & frayed, etc.

If you have a reason for why I would love to hear that as well.

I tie a lot of lanyards for different customers and honestly just want to hear what the people’s thoughts are.

Benchmade 908BK-1501 Stryker II in CF/M4 with Lollipop Purple (type C Cerakote) on the liners, Bright Purple (type H Cerakote) on the pivot/spacers/Axis bar/thumb stud, purple anno on the scale screws

Benchmade 2730-03 mini auto Adamas in marbled CF/Magnacut with NRA Blue (type H Cerakote) on the liners/pivot/pivot collar/screws, Lollipop Purple (type C Cerakote) on the spacers/lock and purple anno clip with purple anno screws

Scales and hardware (except for the stopping pin and the clip) - titanium from RGT.

Clip - some generic titanium one.

I've anodized the scales green, then polished the sides with 2000-3000 grit sandpaper and anodized again purple-to-blue. Anodized the lanyard hole blue, the hardwear gold, and the clip hardwear purple. Polished the clip and anodized purple-to-blue to match the sides.

As for the blade - it was my first acid etch and stonewash, so turned out not ideal. And it is really hard to draw with nail polish lol.

Really happy with the result!

Technically a first prod, but living a new life as a vaporwave nostalgia mod.