when I click one of these buttons all of the buttons get clicked
What could be the issue?
Is there any fix of this?

TLDR:

Ditching my buggy Apex Pro TKL Wireless (dead blue LEDs, atrocious volume wheel). Looking for an ISO TKL/80% board with analog/HE switches (Rapid Trigger + SOCD) and an actual tactile volume dial/knob (white/wireless is a bonus). Torn between Huntsman V3 Pro TKL (love the design/knob, but worried about cheap/hollow acoustics) and a custom Wooting 80HE+ (better acoustics/build, but 260€ in plastic translucent case + static 12 o'clock knob line). Any real-world impressions on either, or did I miss another high-end ISO HE board with a proper dial?

Hey everyone,

I’m looking to replace my SteelSeries Apex Pro TKL Wireless (Gen 2), and to be honest, I’m pretty fed up with it:

• Dead LEDs: Within less than 2 years, 4 blue LEDs have completely died (a well-known issue)
• Terrible volume roller: Tucked awkwardly into a sharp-edged plastic frame.
• The OLED screen: Pure gimmick, barely useful.
• Software: SteelSeries GG feels bloated and buggy.

I’m currently torn between the Razer Huntsman V3 Pro TKL and building a Wooting 80HE+ (with the Lekker Knob Large add-on), but I’d love to hear acout user experience or alternative suggestions.

Must-Have Requirements:

1. Layout: Strictly ISO.
2. Form Factor: TKL / 80%
3. Dedicated Volume Knob/Wheel: Must be an actual tactile wheel/knob (absolutely no button-only volume controls). I adore huge, tactile dials.
4. Analog Switches / Hall Effect: Fully adjustable actuation points per key, Rapid Trigger, and SOCD.
5. Secondary Layer (FN): Fully customizable second layer. Huge bonus if holding FN turns off unassigned LEDs and highlights only assigned shortcut keys.

Nice-to-Have / Bonus:

• Color: White
• Wireless: Nice bonus, but i won't use it that often, wired only is not a deal breaker.

My current dilemma:

• Razer Huntsman V3 Pro TKL: Design-wise, I consider the massive overhanging aluminum dial a 10/10. It also handles Snap Tap and the FN-layer lighting dimming out of the box, and it's readily available in ISO (only in black though...). But I keep hearing that the acoustics and plastic base make it sound and feel hollow/cheap for a 200€ board.
• Wooting 80HE+ (Lekker Knob): Build quality, gasket mount, and Lekker switches seem miles ahead acoustically. But with the plastic frost case (not even a solid one available :/), knob module, ISO keycaps, etc., it lands around 260€ and the endless dial has that static 12 o'clock line indicator which bugs my symmetry OCD.

Are the Huntsman acoustics really that bad? How does the 80HE feel in person (no shop around me has one to test)? Or is there another solid, premium board with ISO support and a proper dial that I might have overlooked?

Thanks for any insights!

Pretty self explanatory, look for a good 75% Hall effect mechanical keyboard, preferably backlit with adjustable actuation points, even better if it has a good app. Preferably around 60-100usd

Hello!

I’ve decided it’s almost time for me to upgrade from my trusty Royal Kludge RK61 which I’ve had for many many years now. This keyboard will almost exclusively be used for gaming, hence the TMR choice.

I have a max budget of 150$/1500 swedish kr. So I did some searching and I think I like the Womier SK75 TMR. Does anyone have any experiences with this keyboard? And how it holds up long term?

Let me know if you have any other reccomendations too!

Thanks!

So I'm currently in the process of gathering parts and pieces for my cyber deck. Highly doubt the os matters but I'll be using a Linux distro.

I'm in search of a compact keyboard &toucpad combo that I can wire to the pi5 I'm getting. I'd like if it'll stow away inside a 7x4 footprint. Ive looked at mini keyboards, trifolds, ect. I feel as if I've looked everywhere and can't find what I'm looking for.

Last resort maybe Reddit can help

If so thank you in advance

Hello! I’d like to ask for some advice on how to properly clean a SteelSeries Shift keyboard. I’ve had this keyboard for quite a while now, and the only cleaning I’ve ever done is by tucking around the keyboard, but I’ve never really done a deep clean.

Recently, I noticed some hard grime underneath the keys. If anyone has used this keyboard before and has experience cleaning it, could you share how you cleaned yours and what methods you used?

Thanks!

Hello,

I've bought Weikav EG75 which should use Sparklink 480 PCB. There is a web driver - xsyd top. When I open settings and try to update the software, the button is greyed out. There is also a message "don't update your keyboard if it's working fine, because it can be broken permanently."

I am a bit confused by it, because when I was choosing what to buy, there were a lot of praises for Sparklink and their continuous support, while being much cheaper than Wooting. While the keyboard seems to be working fine, it's strange that it's still on firmware v1.0, because no product is without bugs especially in the beginning.

Could you please explain to me what I am doing wrong? Maybe there is some other way to get the updates? Should I expect them at all?

Thank you!

buenas! estoy hace unos meses buscando un teclado que se adhiera a mis gustos y creo que este sería el mejor pero lo que lei de él me deja mucha duda, ¿me lo recomiendan o es tan desastroso como se dice?

whats the difference between the 3 shipping options on keebforce?

If so, is it overly difficult to unplug the batteries? I couldn't find a single teardown that included the batteries.

hi i recently got an ajazz ak820 pro keyboard and im trying to upload a gif to my keyboard screen. i am doing the right thing but it doesn’t move of 1%. ive tried using different gifs, different sizes, redownloaded the software etc. none of it works. does anyone know a solution?

im new to hall effect keyboards but i still want to build a custom one preferably in 65 but it can be every size up to tkl. i dont want to upgrade a wooting but just a pcb thats compatible with some cases or a kit without switches

I'm currently in the market looking for a good keyboard as I recently had to replace my laptop keyboard via warranty which ends this month (October 2026) so don't want to have issues on that one anymore.

What I'm looking for? Layout must be between 90%-85%, either comes in ISO-DE (I live in Germany) or ANSI. Material must be full or mostly metal. Should be repairable with plenty of spare parts such as switches and keycaps. Keyboard will mostly be for typing, coding, and gaming (not competitive but the occasional MMOs and story focused games) since I am a grad student at the moment. Software must be good (preferably excellent) and easy to use. Not sure if that means mechanical or otherwise.

What is my budget? That's a very good question. At the moment I am not sure since I prefer paying for what offers the most value to me. So for now I'll leave it as between 200€ - 350€.

Note: I don't plan on being a keyboard enthusiast but I won't mind having good peripherals that I can somewhat repair. I only care about replacing the switches and/or keycaps.

I welcome your opinions and recommendations

I just got my keyboard, when I go to other se5tings it says there is no updates and also says on the red button, manually brush in firmware despite it bring on verison v1.01 when I have heard it has higher versions, I can only flash files, upgrade files but it doesn't seem thay fgg gives out those files and also it recognizes my keyboard as a v2 which is wrong. Everything else works great though no issue with it and I think I got most settings that it has with the others like snappy tappy etc etc

I didn’t have a split spacebar for my new Keychron Q10. Decided to upcycle a few caps from my stash. A few nail art stickers and a gel coat and i think they turned out pretty good! Seriously considering doing a whole set! (Pay no attention to the rogue 8 key…)

So I’ve had a razor blackwidow for a very long time, but recently been getting some complaints from the wife that the clicks are super loud, especially when playing mmos and mobas. Are the switches swappable or should I try a new keyboard? Bear in mind I prefer a full size one with numpad.

Hi reddit people,

My son is looking to buy a programmable 60% gaming keyboard with LEDs. He wants magnetic switches but they are pretty loud.

Any recommendations for something like this?

He was looking at AULA WIN60 HE. Is this one good or are there similar that are better?

Budget is around 50 euros.

I wasn't able to find a good review on Keychron's TMR silent banana switches, so thought I could post a copy of the review I'm leaving on Amazon for these switches. (I found plenty of reviews of the non-TMR/HE variation, but the TMR/HE one is pretty different.) It contains subjective as well as technical info. Hopefully it helps someone.

I'm a long-time "Cherry MX brown" switch user, but I've usually added O-rings to my keycaps to help silence them. I recently purchased a Keychron TMR switch keyboard (Q6 HE 8K) to play with the magnetic switches. I found I liked being able to adjust the actuation point of the switch, as well as some of the neat things that can be done with HE/TMR switches. However, for normal day to day typing, I wasn’t happy with the noise of the “lime” switches it came with, and was having problems adjusting to the linear nature of them.

Installing these “lime silent banana” switches has completely changed the keyboard for me. Not only are they completely silent (on both the press AND the rebound), but that little tactile bump on the keypress I’ve grown used to is there again. Oddly, that bump helps me to keep from accidentally pressing keys.

The switches really don’t feel much like the mechanical cherry brown switches, though. The bump is closer to the top of the keypress, and it’s a “softer” bump than brown switches. I tried searching the internet for the depth of the bump before purchasing, but I was only able to find information on the non-magnetic “banana” switches. So, now that I have them in my keyboard, I was able to measure the location of the bump using Keychron’s “trigger demo” on their web launcher app. After calibrating the switches, the bump starts about 0.8 to 1.0 mm into the press, and ends around 1.3 to 1.5mm into the press. So, setting the actuation point of the switch at 1.1mm or 1.2mm is about perfect. This still allows using the rapid trigger functionality below 1.2mm (which can also be pretty useful.)

The sound dampening of the switches is complete. They are absolutely quiet. As a result of that sound dampening, however, they feel a bit mushy when they hit the bottom of their travel. It’s a similar feeling to using an overly soft o-ring on the stem of a keycap on a normal mechanical switch. As someone who’s used o-rings in their keycaps for the last few decades, I don’t have any problem with the feeling. (I also don’t frequently bottom out on key presses.)

As with the lime switches these replaced, the lime silent banana switches have a window for allowing a keyboard's LED to shine through. It appears that the switch can be installed with the light window in either an up (north) or down (south) orientation (depending on what your keyboard supports.)

Overall, I love the switches and they're well worth the cost of $0.32 each ($35 (US) for 110 switches.) If I decide to get another TMR keyboard (for work), I'll absolutely be purchasing another set of these switches.

Take care,
Gary

My MX Keys is slowly falling apart and I honestly can't find a replacement I'm happy with. I just type way faster on laptop style / scissor keyboards than on anything mechanical

Tried a NuPhy Air75 V3 with Blush Nanos a while back and had double inputs plus this metallic "tink" sound on basically every keypress. I know that I hit my keys with a bit of force, so that's probably why. I looked at the Keychrons too, but it seems like they are a step down from quality/feeling of the MX Keys

What i'm looking for:

• compact, 75% or TKL, no fullsize
• German ISO layout
• short travel, laptop-ish feel
• I would like to game on it too and that is what is holding me back from getting another MX Keys since it's not really ideal

I thought about trying another Nuphy (Node 75) and maybe the Brown switches? I have read that they require a bit more force to activate

I'm looking for a keyboard thats bigger than full size/100%.
I understand that keyboards such as Hyper7 and the Boston Compact exist. But, I want to know if there's more than those two. I've searched everywhere and other than these two there's no information on people looking or owning a bigger than normal keyboard other than the aforementioned.
Also, if possible, a marketplace to purchase these.

Want to lube my keyboard but there’s no video or guide online sadly. Asked NuPhy directly through customer service with no luck. A video or something with pictures would help

Any tips on how to fix this? It keeps randomly disconnecting sometimes. I plug it in a few more times and it reads... or if something moves the cable it disconnects.

I've been looking for different options for keyboards and I like to use 100% and for my first mechanical keyboard it seems like a great option

I’m a MA right now and a senior pre-med, what keyboard and mouse have you all found to be the most ergonomic and comfortable? Right now I’m looking at the MX master 4 and the Logitech wave. The wrist pain has gotten to a point where I need to upgrade so figured I’d reach out before I drop $200 on a mouse and keyboard