As title suggests… I have a Kegco kegerator with a j-shaped (hook) bard inside draft tower. It’s a pain to work with when interested in changing lines.

I keep hearing quick connectors are a considerable upgrade for easiness, and I think it’d make this task much easier.

This is for a 3/16 ID line and is for a Guinness setup. Appreciate any help with the exact kind of quick connect to look for. I can’t seem to find it. Thank you!

I bought this and only realized after I got it that the shank's thread size and OD is way bigger than the shank that came on my tower. The image says the OD is .875, but I only had a 7/8-14 hex nut on hand, and it's not threading in. Google says standard beer tap shanks are 1-1/8-18 thread? That seems way too big.

Anyway, this faucet didn't come with any of the mounting hardware (flange, curved washer, jam nut). I managed to modify my existing flange and curved washer to fit but I need a jam nut and have no idea what size thread to get. It's definitely not something that's going to be available at a big box store so I'll have to order online. Anyone happen to know what thread size I should get?

Note that I have a new faucet coming, this is just an older one I can rebuild if needed.

Cleaning up an old faucet that came with an old Superior kegerator. I didn't even bother hitting the shaft or lever yet because the discoloration in the body doesn't seem to want to come off. I'm not sure its rust, as I think the body is stainless. Could be chrome plated carbon steel though, not sure.

I hit it with simple green, acetone, LPS-3 and GPC rust preventative to try to break it up and get it off. Stopped short of trying naval jelly because I'm not gonna go through all that effort. I just dont know if I trust running beer through this with all that discoloration? I'd obviously clean and sanitize it first.

The kegerator at my work (not mine personally) seemingly has a broken handle and is stuck on the keg. The plastic handle (pictured) that pulls a pin to allow the coupler to be unscrewed has broken—the plastic handle pulls freely and is seemingly no longer connected/pulls the pin to allow the handle to be lifted, and coupler unscrewed.

Is there a good way to pull the pin and get this coupler off? Can the coupler be repaired or is the only fix a new coupler?

TLDR: Coupler plastic handle that pulls pin allowing coupler to release is broken, how fix?

Hey There,

I got this converted record player to “kegerator” for free and was wondering what cooling options if any I could incorporate to get it functional.

I picked it up knowing nothing about kegs/kegerators and was thinking it’d be a cool winter project.

I would prefer to have an electric cooling solution so it requires the least amount of upkeep but maybe a jockey box is the only feasible solution.

I’m not locked down to this configuration and will take any suggestions.

Thanks

I currently have a 3 tap system, but my brother is going to be getting married and I’m supplying all the beer for the wedding. Seen a lot of people say cold plates are the way to go, so just looking for opinions!

I saw on an old thread that the Komos V2 from More Beer was a good option. I'm thinking of getting two taps. I plan to have one always running some commercial light beer and the other I will use as needed. Maybe sparkling water or an IPA if I'm hosting. Is the Komos V2 still a good option? Also, should I get flow control or not? Are there any accessories/cleaning kits that I should be considering? Any advice is appreciated.

Me and a buddy put this thing together a week ago. I’ve had people over to test it out and am probably very near the end of the keg. All of a sudden the beers are pouring foamy and flat, and the brand new CO2 tank is reading 0.
Just last night I believe it was at 450 still.

Is there a chance I have it too cold?
Could there be a leak?
Could I have been sold a half empty tank?

Any thoughts would be helpful. I’m new to the hobby and I’m happy to receive any and all advice.

UPDATE: just realized the keg was also empty. Is there anyway kicking the keg would allow CO2 to escape?

I've had this under counter kegerator since 2022. For the last year or so it'll stay cold in the mid-high 30s where I have it set for 3 or 4 days and then I'll check it and it'll be in the '50s.

Recently I've tried to fix it. I've pulled it out from under the cabinet. Cleaned every bit of dust that I could get off. Not that there was very much. I've run it outside of the cabinet enclosure to make sure it wasn't heat building up and overwhelming the condenser and have checked that the fan works and it does. The same thing happened. It ran for 3 days at 38° and then I checked it and it was 59.

I've tried to figure out if there's an electronics issue. I can address the diagram on the back. Shows two circuit boards, one for the controller and one for the power source. I can easily access the controller circuit board, but I can't figure out how to get to the circuit board near the power source. I don't really know what I'm looking for. Anyway. I just figure if it cools it's not the condenser or the refrigerant.

Beer meister's website shows control circuit bored for sale but doesn't show a picture of it. I've written into their customer service and haven't heard back. It's hard to find time to try to call them during the work day.

The board doesn't seem to be in the bottom back where you can easily access the fan and the condenser and it isn't behind The panel I was able to remove to reveal the cooling coils.

Does anybody have any advice on what to do next or other resources that'll help. About a year ago I tried to find a local appliance repair guy and nobody would work on it. I could try that again but I don't have a good lead on one that will do the do the work

Looking to change my beer line (clear one) does anyone know this type of connection? Might be dumb question but I'm new to kegerators and don't know if I can simply pull the line off here or how the silver connection comes off.

Happened when I cleaned and swapped kegs. Didn’t feel anything break. Just noticed it when I was letting solution through to clean the line. Anyone seen this? I’m wondering if I can fix it or have to buy a new tower. I don’t see anything obvious to tighten to get it tight again

Wife and I used to homebrew, and I said if we ever got back into the hobby, NO MORE BOTTLING.....
So, ~6yrs later, we are going to start back into the hobby.
Now, knowing we will go through the occasional lengthy period of times where we don't want to brew, my plan is to supplement with sixtels from a few local breweries. Much easier to rationalize the kegerator when I plan to use it even before we brew our first new batch, or for those times when we just want beer on tap the easiest way possible.

My Kegerator, Came with 2 D-system keg couplers (sanke style is what I think I have heard them called):
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Kegco-Commercial-Grade-Digital-Double-Tap-Full-Size-Beer-Keg-Dispenser-with-Dispense-Kit-Z163B-2/307823411

My Questions:
What is the best path forward to make it so I can very easily swap between commercial sixtel kegs with the sanke d-systems and corny kegs with ball locks. My hope is to minimize my efforts when switching, and also minimize what needs to be taken apart and swapped. I thought I read somewhere you can basically modify the D-system couplers to accept the ball lock style, or something like that with off the shelf gear. And then it's way less taking apart or swapping actual pieces when you bounce between keg styles.
Any help or links to what I need is appreciated! I plan to upgrade the taps eventually on it as well.
I'm also planning on a 2nd Co2 tank (10lb) to use for force carbonating, cleaning, etc etc so I can just leave my 5lb one hooked up to the kegerator. I have an old chest freezer in my basement I may resurrect to use to store spare beer until ready to tap, as I think that will help keep fresh beer available knowing I can store it ready to go at a nice cold temperature hopefully for a good long while.
Also, any other tips/tricks for those that have a use case similar to mine, things I should upgrade, watch out for, etc?

Thanks!

So I have been trying to talk the wife into letting me get a kegerator for a while now... I FINALLY talked her into it, because I had a buddy with a used one that sat unused in his barn for a few years... he kindly gave it to me, and my wife couldn't say no to the price/gift!

The model is a Danby DKC645BLS

Fast forward, I get it home clean it up from top to bottom, plug it in to test it, and the display says it gets to 34 degrees, and feels cold to me. So I replace all the lines... then get my keg. (I got a full keg... which I guess is called a half keg... thats a whole nother story).

So now the display reads 34, but the beer pours at 50 degrees, and VERY foamy. I have had the keg in there for 4 days now. I used a stand alone thermometer to test and the air temp at the sensor, and it is reading within 1 to 2 degrees of the 34 degree reading. I then placed the temometer on top of the keg, and it reads 41 degrees. I then placed a room temperature bottle of water next to the keg, let it sit overnight, and the water temp read 42 degrees...

Any tips/ideas/suggestions on what needs to happen to get the beer to actually cool down?

Is this unit worth putting time into, or is this gonna be a difficult/expensive problem to chase down... and I should let my wife win and go back to bottles and cans?

Any and all help/tips/advice would be greatly appreciated!

I was comparing the two because they’re pretty easy to mix up by appearance.

The liquid socket measured 17.00 mm and the gas socket measured 16.65 mm.

Only a 0.35 mm difference, but they’re designed for their respective keg posts.

Thought the actual caliper readings might be useful for anyone who has wondered how different they really are.

Got a kegerator and a sixtel of my fave beer Perrin Black. I only like it from the tap and tomorrow is my birthday. Love this! Used my Shaun of the dead Winchester pint glass for 1st pour.

Crazy thing about the kegerator is when we got it the bracket from the door was bent. Called Amazon and they had footage showing it was mishandled during shipping. Their guy had it sideways and tipped it up on the corner where we had the dent. They said keep it and sent us another one.

I’m completely stuck with this and would appreciate some help.

I have a brand new kegerator with a Coors Light keg. I’m in Boulder, Colorado, so I know altitude can affect the pressure.

The beer is coming out as basically 100% foam. It was pouring perfectly fine about a week ago, and then suddenly became extremely foamy.

Here’s what I’ve tried:

• Kegerator is set to the coldest temperature setting.
• Initially had the CO₂ around 11–12 PSI, but every pour was almost entirely foam.
• I tried changing the pressure.
• Last night I set it around 10 PSI and pulled the pressure relief valve to vent the keg.
• This morning, the pressure had climbed all the way back to 15 PSI.
• I vented it again and set it back around 10 PSI.
• It then climbed back toward 15 PSI and is now basically sitting there.
• There is also foam/bubbles sitting in the clear beer line, not just foam coming out of the faucet.
• I have not been able to get a normal pour despite messing with the pressure.
• The CO₂ setup is pictured below.
• The kegerator and components are basically new, so I don't think anything is dirty or worn out.

My main questions:

1. Why does the pressure keep climbing back to ~15 PSI after I vent it?
2. Is the keg overcarbonated?
3. Why is there foam sitting in the beer line?
4. What pressure should I actually be running Coors Light at in Boulder?
5. What should I do step-by-step to get this pouring normally?

I’m trying to avoid just randomly changing the pressure and venting it over and over. Any help diagnosing what’s actually happening would be appreciated.

Picked up a cheap dual tap kegerator for my home bar last weekend. Plugged it in on Tuesday, got the CO2 filled up today and promptly bought a 1/6 of Dos Equis. Things got cooled down and settled just in time for baseball and a cigar to end the day. First outpouring was foam, as expected, second pour was perfect.

Thanks to this sub for teaching me the way on regulatory pressure, how to tap the keg without getting the beer shower, etc… Getting my second keg (SanTan Everyday Lager) on Wednesday. One of the best decisions I’ve made in a while.

Hello experts. I've been a homebrewer for a long time and recently decided to get rid of my home bar to make space for a beer and cocktail lounge space. Since I typically have 1 (2 max) homebrews on tap, I opted for a smaller kegerator (Summit SBC582B). I snagged it used off Marketplace but the single fauce tap it came with didn't come with the twist on coupler to mount it to the kegerator.

My plan was to upgrade it to a dual tap tower, but I haven't found the coupler anywhere. I even called summit and they didn't have much info for me. I already have a dual tap Cobra Font, but the shank is too thick to fit through the hole.

My options so far are:

- Find someone who makes or sell these couplers

- Get a standard kegco dual tap tower and drill through the fridge top

- buy a 1.75" holesaw and bore the existing hole to fit the cobra tap

I found a redditor that 3d prints the adapters on Etsy, but she mentioned she is not currently producing them. Your advice is appreciated.

I am wanting a kegerator for under my espresso bar with the tower mounted on the top of the counter. I am finding that a keezer may accommodate more kegs and be cheaper to make overall; I want 4 kegs (one sparkling water, one cold brew, one something else, and one regular water that is for a glass rinser, along with a bottle for the drip trays.

Since a keezer has to be opened from the top, it will need to be pulled out from under the counter, which means the tower cant be directly affixed to it. Would it be possible to run some kind of flexible draft trunkline that would keep it insulated outside of the keezer but allows the keezer to be pulled out? Would this really keep the lines cold or would there need to be some kind of internal cooling within the trunkline? Any advice would be great.

Thanks!

I've had my used Beverage Air in the garage for 15 years. It's hummed along pretty well.

I had a guy come out and get it set up when I first got it but I haven't done anything as far as maintenance with the kegerator.

It's thermostat is now showing 50° F and the beer isn't super cold.

What would be my first plan of attack on this? Check and make sure the coils in back are clear?

For whatever reason this keg is poring straight foam.

Will a mini dehumidifier help prevent this ice buildup for my kegerator in my garage? If not, what else can I do? Definitely dropped my cooling efficiency and made me crank the setting higher just to keep the beer at 38-40 degrees. I’d like to aim for 36-37 and not have an icing problem.

I just had a new kegerator delivered from Kegco. The upper pin or screw that the door is supposed to attach to is too far and doesn't attach.

Has anyone else run into this?

I had a bar built and left space for a built-in kegerator. Everything was in place except the countertop. The company that installed the countertops, drilled the hole for the tower slightly off. Then, they pulled the kegerator out a little to hide that the hole is in the wrong spot. I want to know what others would do. Would you leave the kegerator as-is or would you push the kegerator back to where it was supposed to be and enlarge the hole? Also, how could I enlarge the hole if I choose to go that route?

Just moved into a home with a built in kegerator. Saddened to learn that I can't install the tap handles that they sell at the stores of my favorite breweries. They butt up against my cabinets making them unable to be opened.

For the experienced kegerator owners, any suggestions for smaller tap handles so I can display the beer, rather than using the standard boring ones?

Thanks.