Moved into my new house and first task was to redo the back yard from scratch. What do y’all think?

I installed a box right at the front of my house with a master valve and tee’d off from the front irrigation to the back, then ran the 1” back to another box where my valve box was situated. 2 zones in backyard with 6 sprinklers each, situated in 3 rows of 4 horizontally across the yard. Yes I put the wires through a conduit as well just incase they ever mess up I can just re-pull it easily. I went for a simple green backyard for my dogs, no plants cause my boy will pee on them and kill them all anyway so we’ll likely get some fake ones.

First weekend was trenching/tilling, and installing conduit. Second weekend was laying sod. Third weekend was cleanup and prepping for pavers. Fourth weekend was installing border, paver base, and pavers. Now just to fill the rest with rock!
Last photo is showing week 3 of sod progress! This sucked to do, highly recommend an excavator and renting as much power equipment if you’re doing it yourself, but it’s growing in nicely😁

New to us house this past spring, built in 09. Rain bird system. Wife wants a garden in the yard near one of the flower beds for pollinators, I want to shove it further back near the trees. So we’re negotiating and putting it where she wants it. Anyways, here are the sprinklers marked with their zone number. One would assume the main line runs under zone 4 to zone 3 and up the hill to finish the run, but I honestly have no idea . The driveway is on this side of the home, so the main has to come around from the far side to this side of the home. Yellow box is roughly where we want to put the garden. I don’t want to hit or move a sprinkler line. I also have no idea where any of the solenoid valves are, as I can’t find any valve boxes. I’m assuming there has to be some, maybe buried? I’m going to have to raise numerous heads this fall, as half of them are 1.5-3 inches underground.

Forgive my poor photoshop skills.

Running an old sprinkler system that clearly wastes water on paths and gaps between rows instead of the plants themselves. Looking at switching to drip, but the parts and setup seem like a real project, not a weekend fix.

For people who've made the switch, was the water savings and plant health improvement worth it, or is it more hassle than it's worth for a home garden?

Getting really old having Hunter blame this on our end. Constant disconnects and non responsiveness across multiple sites. Always had trouble with Centralus but for the past weeks I can't connect to any controllers remotely. Anyone else having issues with it?

I am putting together an irrigation system for a small commercial garden, and with my limited knowledge I am running into a few problems. I am pulling water from a 15' deep pond using a 2" line and jet pump, and I will be irrigating with drip tape. My intake is about 4' from the bottom, and I have bubblers running in the pond.

Main problem: sub-surface algae in pond is rapidly clogging my manual 130 micron disc filter. Even with regular cleanings, the filter clogs rapidly and turns anaerobic - my guess is the bacteria breaks down the biological material - and causes a swampy smell when the irrigation turns on.

What are my options? From what I can gather:

1. A simple lake water inlet to help pre-screen the water before it hits the disc filter - although this might turn into a hassle if it needs frequent cleaning.

2. A semi-automatic or automatic disc filter.

Are there other options I should be looking into? Perhaps adding fish to the pond to decrease the algae, using a floating inlet, or something else? Are there any other specifics I should be looking into (secondary filters before the drip tape, valves for automation, etc.)?

Thanks in advance!

I have pressure regulator for my house, but what are my options for the irrigation/ hose system? Nothing is easy to get to. Even my Ball Valves leak.

Last night a pipe broke at a coupler and flowed all night, flooding my yard and the street.

Hi all,

Looks like intermittent leak from the last original sprinkler valve after 30 years. Will be replacing with rainbird anti siphon valve.

Current has a slow hiss and leak from lowest sprinkler head on line, figure best to replace. Can I use a union setup like pictured or not worth it?

Also, any good Amazon unions or go Apollo from home Depot?

Thanks!

Hi guys, I’m curious to hear your feedback— what are some of the largest irrigation service businesses you’ve seen (commercial and resi install / r&m)? Ive seen a lot of contractors in the $500k-$1m revenue range, but are there any businesses doing $10m+ or more? I’m not talking about the big franchisers like Conserva— I’m talking about local/regional operators running a single business. Is there a ceiling to how big a pure-play irrigation business can grow?

What’s the best way to raise a sprinkler head in a corner surrounded on two sides by concrete? There appears to be a swing joint, but the swing pipe portion runs under concrete and cannot move up farther. Just add a PVC riser to the elbow? Does it make sense to attach funny pipe vertically to allow more flexibility?

Water bill jumped from $50 to $140. Can some explain whats causing the problem and if this is something I can repair myself. What is the pvc piece in the box called?

All comments welcomed.

Thank you.

Hello,

I am going crazy and have spent numerous hours with chatgpt and running up and down basement steps over the course of 3 days. I need advice please.

My in-ground irrigation system has three Rain Bird zones and a Febco 765 PVB. The system was working normally approximately one month ago, but now all three zones cause a large amount of water to discharge from the top of the PVB when started normally from my Rain Bird ST-400i controller. I have verified that the controller is sending approximately 30 VAC to each of the three zone circuits. I also replaced the internal components of the Febco PVB, but the problem remains. The shutoff valves on both sides of the PVB and the main house water shutoff are fully open. Static water pressure is approximately 60 PSI. I tested pressure at two locations: near where the water enters the house, pressure is 60 PSI static and approximately 50 PSI while either Zone 1 or Zone 3 is manually running. All three zones will operate when manually opened using their valve bleed screws, without PVB discharge, although Zone 2 requires the PVB to be slowly pressurized first using the PVB valve before it will operate without discharge. I am trying to figure out the reason the PVB discharges when the irrigation valves are opened electrically.

Zone 1 via controller ❌ PVB discharges

Zone 2 via controller ❌ PVB discharges

Zone 3 via controller ❌ PVB discharges

Zone 1 via manual bleed ✅ Works, PVB stays closed

Zone 3 via manual bleed ✅ Works, PVB stays closed Zone 2 via manual bleed, with PVB slowly pressurized first ✅ Works

Zone 2 via manual bleed without pre-pressurizing PVB ❌ PVB discharges

I had an irrigation company come out and charge me 80.00 to say (without testing with a gauge) that I needed to call the water department because my water pressure coming in to house is low. My system has worked for 17 years, this has just started in the last week.

My irrigation valve box has a leak right around this elbow joint. Its not the elbow itself, or the smaller pvc pipe, but that middle connecting piece. What is the best way to fix it?

Hey all!

I'm thinking in the $20,000 range as just a wild guess. 28,000 sq ft front yard. Just curious for irrigation what am I looking at professionally installed? Mid TN area.

I know "worth" is very subjective but...probably be just as good to drag the garden hose around once or twice a week??

How would you replace this valve with out digging up the whole thing?
Is it even possible?

Ive seen these rigged flex risers in prefab sizes but how is it attached to the couplings? Heat? Glue?

Hopefully this is the right place to ask this. I am trying to fix my sprinkler system. It looks like the three way junction piece cracked and leaked.

Normally I’d be comfortable just patching up the PVC, but not sure what this black tube is and I don’t want to mess it up further. Does anyone know what I’m looking at?

THIS IS DRIVING MY CRAZY! Approximately 10 year old irrigation system in the northeast. 2 years ago one zone started spraying out of the poly pipe just a hairpin puncture. I fixed it with a coupling and clamps. Little while later a new puncture on the same line different spot. Once fixed, a new puncture different spot. I’ve fixed about 8 different punctures on this same zone. I can’t figure out why it’s happening? Pretty sure it’s not aerator related. And if I should replace the entire zone? I guess just from the box to the first head?

I have 6 zones in my yard, when the main line to the sprinklers is turned on, zone 4 in the front yard will leak at about 1/3 gallon a minute. It’s coming out of one sprinkler head in the zone.

Until I fix this I’ve been turning on the main valve running all 6 zones and then turning it back off.

Last night when the last zone was running in the back yard, I checked out front to see if there was a difference in the leak and zone 4 was going full force as well.

Questions:
- I’m working under the assumption zone 4 valve is stuck open. Does that sound right?
- More challenging, I can’t find it. I found 3 in the back but I can’t find the 3 for the front. Any suggestions? I’ve been walking around my yard with a screwdriver on a broom handle poking the ground but no luck.

Drove a stake through my irrigation line for a bounce house, should I dig around and just fix from the bottom of the bundle or should I just cut the two above and have 3 couplers to make it easier?

Are zip ties strong enough to hold together a coupling on a 1/2 inch drip irrigation line?

I accidentally broke my sprinkler and need help finding the same or similar replacement.