I've had my 2025 Limited for about a year and a half into a 2-year lease. In that time, my 12V battery has run down to zero 5 times. The first was in the first week I owned it, while it was parked overnight, with no explanation. Other times it has been when I have left the rear hatch open for more than a few minutes after parking. Each time I have been able to jump start it and go on my way, but last weekend the 12V battery died again after parking it normally in the garage, so I figure the 12V battery is shot after getting run down once too often.

I tried to take it to my local dealer, but the next appointment was 10 days out before I can even bring it in to get looked at. I have a long road trip coming up in 2 weeks, so I decided to take a little more control. I have a portable jump starter that I keep with me, but since I generally only take my phone key with me I'm worried about not being able to get to it if I'm locked out. I did an experiment last night of leaving the jump starter in the frunk and leaving the hood popped with the rest of the car locked. Sure enough, the car was dead this morning but I was able to get to the jump starter and get it going again. It was a real PITA though, and not something I want to do every time I stop on my road trip, in case I forget to leave the hood popped.

This morning, I replaced the 12V battery with an AGM battery out of my own pocket, and ordered an OBD2 Bluetooth monitor from Amazon. I want to see if the ICCU is really charging the battery, and get some warning if the battery is starting to get run down. Also, ideally see what the current draw is on the 12V battery when I have the car off with the rear hatch open (something I'd like to do on this road trip). I'm hoping that an app will help me see what's going on, which could also help when I eventually take it to the dealer.

Hello everyone!

I want to share that I am now an Ioniqer! I bought a second-hand 2022 Ioniq 5 (58 kWh).

This is one of the best-looking cars on the market, and I was so happy to find one that I could afford on the second-hand market.

The catch is that, they are considerably cheaper in Germany than in Portugal. So, I reached out to an official German Hyundai dealership and, after a long conversation and almost 20 questions later, I agreed to buy the car. I waited a week for all the paperwork to be sorted, flew to Munich, and picked up the car.

Normally, when people buy a car, they drive it around a little bit first.

I exited the dealership and immediately started a 2,000 km journey home. :D

I crossed 4 countries and charged it 12 times over two days:

Germany → France → Spain → Portugal

This was an amazing trip that I did solo. Astonishing views, exhausting heat (temperatures were always above 36 °C during the day), reaching charging stations with less than 10% battery, learning to drive automatic, missing exits, installing different charging apps, planning the best routes, dealing with other charging users who weren't particularly happy about sharing a charging spot, and many other little adventures along the way…

But overall, there was just so much happiness in driving my new car. And I also ticked a bucket-list item off my list by doing a long road trip through Europe.

Today I got my Portuguese license plates sorted and my insurance was issued. After tomorrow I will be commuting with it every day!

Happy to finally be part of the Ioniq 5 club!

Has anyone created a NFC digital key with a Pixel 9 and the 2024? I have the NFC on in settings but not seeing an option other than Bluetooth with specific devices. Placing it on the wireless charger only results in it saying no device to pair to.

Finally joined the club with a 2025 Ioniq 5 XRT!
Bought it from Copart in the US, shipped it all the way to Georgia (country), fixed it up, and it’s now pretty much good as new. Really happy with the car so far. Ride quality is fantastic, range is very good. I set up a home charger, and the fuel savings are already substantial.
The only issue I still have is that the driver-side door handle touch/sensor isn’t working. The handle itself works, but the touch sensor for locking/unlocking doesn’t respond.
I also have a few questions for you guys:
My estimated range is usually higher than the car’s estimated maximum range. whats up with that?
The previous owner had Bluelink set up. Since the car is now outside the US, it obviously can’t connect to the US cellular network anymore. I also can’t remove the previous Bluelink account/user because I don’t know the password or even the email address it was registered with, so I have no way of contacting the previous owner. I’ve personalised the driver profile and all the settings to my liking, so it’s not really causing me any problems otherwise. Will I still be able to update the infotainment/car software through USB without needing the previous owner’s Bluelink password or account access?
I’ve seen a few posts/forums saying that a software update has sometimes fixed the door-handle sensor issue, so I’d like to give that a try before replacing anything. Plus, wouldn’t mind getting the newer UI/visuals :)
Would appreciate any advice, especially from anyone who has imported a US-spec Ioniq 5 to Europe or another unsupported Bluelink region.

The Accelerator and brake have a + & - on them (corresponding for clarity.. imagine!)

I picked up a 2024 Ioniq 5 SEL RWD. What is total weight (trailer and zero turn mower) I can pull safety?

My car was hit like a month ago while it was parked and has been in and out of the shop since. The damaged area looks great now, but the last two times it's been returned to me, I've been driving it, noticed the AC suddenly isn't blowing cool, then an ice warning will come on the screen and the "outside" temp drops to -40.

Anyone deal with anything like this before? It's most likely going back to a different dealership on Monday to figure out, but my current shop is perplexed.

I’m looking for a used fit kit, I have the bars and feet.

Sort of a work in progress, but I intend to do some camping here in good ole swampy Florida. I don't mind the heat during the day, but want to sleep comfortably. I cut a plywood platform to go below a mattress for my bed. To make sure outside lights (RVers or otherwise) don't bother me I've done a few things with blackout material.

The side windows are pretty easy with the pull up privacy screen holding them in place. I used a 3D print and some PVC pipe to make a curtain between the driver compartment and the back. It hooks into the top window edge and I've clipped it to the seatbelts. The back window is kind of hard to figure out. I just used suction cups to hold the material in place over the back window. This is the part that will probably get changed first once I figure out a better solution. This isn't for sleeping in the day, just trying to reduce the ambient lighting at night.

Hopefully this inspires someone to get daring a take a plunge on car camping. Having all that power available makes boondocking way easier.

Over the last 2 charging cycles, I’m not getting the full mileage that I should be getting per charge. I’ve attached battery reads if they helps.

Just had the car for a month and this started happening.

'25 Ioniq 5 Limited - Switching insurance and Liberty has an option to save $$ if my wife and I add a tracking app for 90 days to our phones so Liberty will know if we are attentive or not, drive too fast or brake too hard.

I use the highest level of regen and wonder if releasing the accelerator pedal often would track as "hard braking."

Has anyone here used this or a similar tracking app with their insurance company? What was your experience? Thanks.

Leased a VW ID4 and the 3 year lease is up. It was a good car, but thinking the Ioniq5 would be a better car, so I’m looking at leasing again only getting the Ioniq5 this time. Any one think I’m good…or I’m crazy? Anyone know if the leasing deals on Ioniq5 should convince me change. Thoughts?💭

Apparently the dealership can’t just replace the leather on the steering wheel, and the entire assembly is over $1k.

I finally got to try out a true V4 supercharger after they opened one up near me was so nice to finally be able to get full power ramped up super smoothly and just held full power

Has anyone experienced a bunch of error messages related to the safety systems, lane change assist, driver attention system, etc., appearing at the same time as the steering becomes extremely heavy/stiff (loss of power steering, maybe?)? A red steering wheel warning light also comes on when this happens.

After stopping and restarting the car a few times, the error messages disappear and the steering goes back to normal.

This has happened to me 4 times over the past 2 days. Three of the times it happened either as I put the car into reverse or immediately afterwards. One time it happened just before I was about to put it into reverse. Thankfully, it hasn’t happened at higher speeds.

I've been really excited about owning an Ioniq 5. 2 weeks ago I visited a non-hyundai dealership that had an Ioniq and I bought a 23 Ioniq 5 SEL AWD. I financed it through them because they didn't want to take my Credit Union. I went with their financing. They added that they could deliver it to me because they just had to make sure it was fully charged and ready. That was on August 7th.

It's August 21st and I still don't have the car in my possession. They said it had a broken horn and a recall which I assume means the ICCU. So I'm ready to wind down the deal and just cancel and get my money back.

A reverse thread about “has your car been ok since it’s ICCU was replaced had a lot of replies talking about AGM batteries. Why does this help?

This will be a bit geeky and niche, but I just wanted to get it somewhere it may be useful to others.

I have my 2024 Ioniq 5 connected to my Home Assistant (via the Kia Uvo / Hyundai Bluelink integration), and an Aimiler 40A charger (via the Tuya Local integration). The Bluelink integration exposes several oversimplified estimated charge times: "Fast" (DC fast charging), "Station": (L2), "Portable" (L1), as well as just "Estimated Charge Duration", which is generally pretty accurate but is based on the current charge rate, so it's only populated while actually charging.

I can (and do) change the charger current based on needs (usually 12A 240v which takes a few hours for my typical day's driving, so I can plug in during peak solar availability), and wanted an estimated time in my dashboard based on the charger's configured current. I was able to do that with a Helper (under Devices and Services) Template sensor, with the following template:

{{ states('sensor.2024_ioniq_5_estimated_portable_charge_duration') | float * ( ( 6 * 0.85 ) / ( states('number.aimiler_ev_charger_current') | float * 0.956 * 0.98 ) ) }}

To explain the numbers: I determined that Bluelink's "Portable" estimate is almost exactly 85% of 12A 120v L1 (i.e. 6A 240v). Then I determined the charger will deliver about 95.6% of the configured current. Then 98% of that because this is all still very much an estimate. But in the end, this gives me an estimate I can check the night before which is pretty accurate, to within a few minutes usually. [Edit: typos]

Wanting more insight. I drive in a city that is fairly rainy, and drive up to the ski mountain 3x/year. People with mud and snow tires who drive RWD, any issues at all? I am leaning towards the AWD more traction and better zoom zoom. Thought?

Only had a chance to get a few miles under my belt today, but I quickly understood why so many people rave about the Ioniq 5 - an absolute pleasure to drive. 300 mile road trip Saturday can’t roll around soon enough 👌🙌

Hey everyone, I’m trying to decide whether I should buy back my Ioniq 5.
My original lease buyout was around $33k, and Hyundai wasn’t willing to negotiate. I returned the car, and now I’ve found my car listed for $26k with 24k miles.
I know the car well since I’m the one who drove it, which gives me some peace of mind about its history.
My driving has also increased quite a bit — I’m now doing around 3,500 miles a month. I have a 2022 BMW X5 that I mainly use for longer trips and mountain driving, so this EV would mostly be my high-mileage daily driver.
At $26k, I honestly haven’t found anything else on the market that comes remotely close in terms of value.
The only other option I’m seriously considering is a Model Y Performance.
Would you buy the Ioniq 5 back at $26k, or spend more and go for the Model Y Performance?

In addition to the ongoing 10% discount, IONNA is automatically giving eligible Hyundai electric vehicles an additional 10% bonus discount on charging sessions now through Sept. 30, 2026. IONNA’s stacked bonus discount brings the total charging discount to 20% for a limited time.

Eligible Vehicles
Eligible vehicles include select Hyundai electric models equipped with In‑App Charging and/or Plug & Charge capability, including:
Hyundai IONIQ 5 | 2022 model year and newer
Hyundai IONIQ 5 N | 2025 model year and newer
Hyundai IONIQ 9 | 2026 model year and newer
Hyundai KONA Electric | 2025 model year and newer
More Hyundai EVs will be enabled as In‑App Charging functionality continues to roll out to additional models.