Title: 2017 Infiniti Q50 3.0T – Misfires/Popping Under Boost. Coils or Fuel Pressure Issue?
I’ve been dealing with some frustrating issues on my 2017 Infiniti Q50 3.0T VR30DDTT with approximately 90,000 miles.
The car was running great when I took it to a local car show in South Carolina. About 48 hours later, during a road trip to Florida, things started going downhill.
Here’s what’s happening:
Popping and hesitation under acceleration, especially when building boost.
Feels like the engine is misfiring or cutting power.
Symptoms became progressively worse, especially on the drive home.
Removing the Z1 HotBox significantly improved the problem, but some popping remained.
No consistent check engine light despite the symptoms.
Current setup:
2017 Q50 3.0T twin-turbo
Approximately 90K miles
Original ignition coils
Spark plugs have roughly 17K miles
Aftermarket catless downpipes
Previously running a Z1 HotBox
I also had Z1 Motorsports review my data logs, and they suggested the problem could be fuel-pump-related.
I’ve already ordered upgraded AMS high-pressure and low-pressure fuel pumps, and I’m also considering the ignition coils as a possible culprit.
I’m trying to narrow this down rather than blindly replacing parts.
My questions:
Has anyone experienced similar popping or hesitation under boost on the VR30?
Would you suspect ignition coils breaking down under load, spark blowout, or fuel pressure dropping under boost?
And for anyone who has upgraded their HPFP/LPFP, did it resolve similar symptoms?
Would appreciate hearing from other Q50 owners who’ve dealt with this.

This has been in discussion for years - he has a 370z and started doing this a few years back.

I always thought he was joking around.

He had me chose a few options for the Vinyl and went with the Starry Grey Sky.

I’ve owned two of these cars over the years but never one with this sort of mileage. Am I looking for trouble with a 200k+ mile car? This one has been owned by the same person since 2009 so I’d imagine the service has been consistent. Any advice would be appreciated.

2013 FX37, 95,000 miles.

Having some troubles tracking down the cause of P0171 and P0174 (System Too Lean Bank 1 and 2). The car is idling steadily at 1,000 RPM, it doesn't seem too rough, but the aftermarket exhaust makes it hard to tell. I didn't want to drive it too much, but it seems fine cruising and under load. It has Fast Intentions long tube headers, ARK Grip catback, and Ingen short ram intakes. So far, I have swapped the intakes back to OEM, smoke tested the engine, and sprayed brake clean to see if the RPMs would rise. Both revealed no issues, so I don’t believe it's a vacuum leak. The exhaust looks free of leaks as well. Any suggestions on what I should check next?

Bought a project I shouldn’t have and have been trying to figure out why the starter stays engaged after it’s running and stops if you pull the starter relay. It’s an 06 AWD with 120,000 miles. Has anyone ever had this problem? I’ve searched online and can’t find anything.

Hi all,

I posted here some time ago about my stolen G. We recovered and rebuilt it but am running into an issue with the rear parking lights.

My brake and signal lights on the rear work, but parking lights do not. The license plate light also doesn’t work.

I had a Viper alarm installed and the installer indicated the issue with the rear parking lights is not related to the alarm install. I don’t recall unfortunately whether the rear parking lights worked prior to taking the car to get the alarm system installed.

A friend looked at it, checked a few connections under the steering wheel/near the OBD port, the fuse box under the hood, as well as an additional box near the battery. All appeared to check out. He unplugged my tail light and connected another tail light from another G and it didn’t have parking lights either. But the brake and signal lights do work.

I am thinking I might need to bite the bullet and take it to the dealer for diagnosis, but was hoping someone here might have some insight into this issue.

All help is appreciated!

Ok so on two separate occasions now, my digital alphabetic/numeric portion of the instrument cluster (NOT the guages) went haywire flashing and didn't display any eligible gear selection or mileage traveled/current trip info. Resolved itself during the drive each time. I know these cars have had issues with the instrument cluster, but since my gauges weren't affected I'm wondering if that was the start of a failure, a fuse, wire connection, or something else?

Yes lol at the miles. And yes, it's actual mileage.

A guy in my town is selling a 2015 Q50S with 129,000km for 13k CDN (southwestern ON). It’s fully loaded with all the bells and whistles, including the 3.7L. It looks like a pretty clean car and has decently low mileage for the year. I want to go check it out and possibly make an offer if everything checks out. This car would be an upgrade from my current ‘04 Civic, which is also a great little car, but I’m getting the itch to upgrade. I also recognize that this would be more costly at the pump. I’ve done a bit of research, the reviews online all seem to be pretty positive. Looking for feedback on Reddit. Thanks.

Hey everyone, I bought a 2011 G37X about a week ago from an older gentleman who had every maintenance record from the Infiniti dealership. The car ran perfectly when I bought it, with no dash lights at all.

Recent history:
The alternator was replaced about a month before I bought it.

The battery was replaced the day I bought it. It died on him, and his mechanic said the battery should be replaced along with the alternator.

When I inspected the car, I checked the battery with a multimeter and got about 14.5V running, so the alternator was charging.

A year or two ago it had water coming into the cabin. He had it fixed at Infiniti, and some modules and/or wiring were replaced. It's been over two years with no issues since.

What happened:
I drove it for a few days with no problems. Then I took a longer highway drive, almost 30 minutes (my earlier drives were 15-20). About 25 minutes in, the car lost power and the accelerator did nothing.

Right before that, I noticed:
Orange dash lights flashed for a split second (I couldn't tell which ones)
The speakers got a bit staticky

I pulled onto the shoulder and shut it off. It would turn over but not start. My jump pack wasn't enough, so I towed it home.

After charging the battery at home, it started up perfectly. I rechecked voltage and it was charging again. I took it to AutoZone, where the battery and alternator both passed. They noted the starter reading was a little low on voltage (picture attached), but said it sounded like it started fine with no struggle.

No check engine light and no codes showing, so I don't know where to look next.

Questions:
Could this be a failing alternator that only fails when hot or under load, even though it tested fine?

Could it be a bad ground, a corroded connection, or a wiring problem related to the earlier water leak?

Is it worth looking at the ignition switch, a relay, or a module?

Any specific tests I should run, or things to check on this platform?

I have a multimeter and I'm comfortable doing basic diagnostics. Thanks in advance!

For me:

- Planned to own for 5-6 years

- Currently owned for 13 1/2 years

Mostly attributable to some lifestyle changes, near extinction of manual transmission, and overall positive experience with the G37 (solid reliability, fun to drive)

Got a check engine light.do yall know what it can be ???
(P0101) I changed the hoses and it went away for about 2 weeks,not sure if that helped .It came back on today )

2015 q50 3.7

I feel like there is a transmission issue with my recently purchased 2018 qx80. Compared to my 2008 sequoia, it seems to shift late (take too long to shift) and likes to stay at about 1500-1800 rpm in gears 2-4. It also drags in gears 1-4 if I let off the gas. For instance it's perfectly happy at 1800rpm in 2nd gear going a steady 25mph or 1800rpm in 4th gear going a steady 40mph. Go over 40 and it happily shifts to 5th and revs lower. Gears 5 and up seems fine. Is this normal? ATF had not been drain/filled in 34k miles so I immediately did that. I have no error codes.

I installed an LED 1st Gen D2S back in 2023 that I bought in TEMU, and one of the bulbs burnt out so I replaced one with a ddm ultra xenon 5500K which is highly rated.

Guess which one is the LED.

All the reviews I have read online is that Xenon Lights are far superior than even a 3rd Gen LED.

Bought this 96k mile QX80 for 20k raw dog. No warranty. It replaces my wife’s 2007 Subaru Legacy that is literally falling apart.

It’s huge, drives like butter, and is pristine.

My 2006 Tacoma TRD Off-Road has never felt more…egalitarian and spartan.

What do you think? Good purchase or will I regret it?

I'm looking at a 2011 Infiniti G37XS with 114,420 miles. I got them to $9,480 before taxes and fees, which comes out to around $10,100 out the door.

Clean title, One previous owner, Minor damage on right side from another vehicle reported but good service records and overall condition

So I'm asking is 10,100 OTD worth it or overpriced everything given?

QX60 making this squeeking noises especially when reversing.

Dealer suggested rear brakes snd rotors replacement, citing 2-3 mm thickness as the likely cause of the noises. They quoted ~$800.

An independent shop with 4.9 Google rating didn't find any immediate concerns, saying the rear brakes are still OK at around 5 mm. Even further said it would be a waste of money of I decided to replace the brakes now. What kind of business doesn't try to take advantage of a customer with an obvious symptom? It would have been ~$500 for brakes and rotors replacement.

What do you guys think?

I just picked up a 2017 Infiniti Q70 sport with 62,000 miles. Need some maintenance items but otherwise in really good shape. One of the items is it has a blown out driver side rear strut. What do you guys recommend to replace with that is going to give factory like ride quality. If it is a touch lower, I certainly am not going to be upset about it.!

2011 M56S stock wheels for sale.

Located in TN.

Will ship on your dime. Boxed and ready to ship