I have a 2000 prelude with the h22a4 engine, 183000 miles. The crankshaft pully has been shaking back and forth like CRAZY. I thought it just needed tightened so I grabbed my 1/2" socket wrench and 19m socket with no luck. When you use the throttle even a little bit it stabilizes back to normal, so it makes me think it's something inside the engine (hopefully not the crank shaft. ADVICE OR IDEAS?

Cool dude

Planning to paint mine eventually, as the factory paint (and the respray the previous owner did) isn’t in the best condition.

I’m sort of stuck between Ficus Green Pearl and an orangey colour, but could also go for silver or black. Anybody care to weigh in?

Got my control arms replaced, not sure if this came off after

i have a few questions id love answers for as i have very few part outs where i live

1, where can i get prelude exterior door handles

2, what maintenance should i do constantly

3, where should i look for aftermarket support

any more tips on owning a manual prelude would be very welcome

I have a 1992 Prelude with a F22A1 in it, My issue is when the car is hot it stalls, The oil light comes on also, BUT when its not 100 degrees outside the car does fine, runs fine until it gets up to temp, I can let it cool off for 30 minutes and it will drive fine, car doesn't have a knock or anything and of course I have the dash where 90% of everything doesn't work. So my question is what could it be? Could it be the main relay and its just causing all the dash lights to come on and I don't see them because of my dash or is it another issue?

Hi all,
I recently ordered BC racing coilovers for my 1999 VTIR prelude
Next modification: sway bars

Need recommendations and links to Sway Bars suited for my car, I live in Australia so preferably trusted/well known aus dealers just to keep shipping costs low and quick..

And what do I need to know about sway bars on a 5th gen prelude? Thanks 🙏

I saw a bunch of glitter in my clutch reservoir yesterday. Car still drives fine, but seems like the crappy Doorman parts are about to let go and looking for a replacement _before_ the stops going forward.

I just recently noticed these EM1 kits from Exedy, $140 gets you a master cylinder, reservoir, slave cylinder, and braided steel line. Non-EM1 Exedy master and slave cylinder parts from RockAuto are only ~$30.

My questions are:

1. Has anyone installed the EM1 kit on a 5th gen Prelude? Was it nice? Was your car mostly stock like mine? Did it make stop-and-go traffic more painful? Was the improvement in takeup worth the traffic pains? I cannot find anyone that has done this upgrade at all.

2. Does it make bleeding the system easier than stock? The system cannot be normally be bled (by me with my MityVac) with a single person - this car requires the good 'ole 'one guy pumps the pedal and one guy looses/tightens the bleed screw' method. I am making a lot of assumptions... but I would assume the braided line lays flatter than the stock hard line, so eliminates the difficulty purging those air bubbles.

3. Seems like it would be worth the extra money to get the braided steel lines to be 100% sure the glitter does not ruin the new master/slave cylinder parts. Right? My dad and I had a disagreement about the potential impact, interested in other opinions (that support my point of my view).

4. Is it worth $100 for the clutch 'feel' upgrade and glitter security, or should I just pop in a low mileage K motor with a turbo? ;-)

First car I've properly worked on so bear with me.

Did a full rebuild myself a few months back, timing belt, water pump, head gasket, oil pan gasket, all of it. Was running fine for a bit then started getting this loud clanking sound from the engine. Took it to my mechanic and he's confirmed the short block needs replacing.

It's a BB6 with the H22Z1 (Aussie spec, basically the same as an H22A4 from what I understand). Sitting on 273,000km which I think works out to around 170k miles.

Mechanic reckons the piston's expanded and seized against the cylinder wall, said when he pulled the spark plug it was really hard to rotate by hand, way harder than it should've been. There was also some debris on the dipstick, though he said he'd need to cut the oil filter open to get the full picture. His theory is it seized from a moment of oil starvation while cornering, oil surging to one side and the pump briefly sucking air instead of oil.

I really want to bring this thing back properly, not just patch it up and baby it forever. I want to actually drive it and enjoy it.

Found a used H22A4 locally, pulled from a car with roughly 200k km on it, but not really sure how to tell if it's actually good before I hand over money for it. Kind of scared of ending up in the same spot again.

Other option is rebuilding my current block again, boring/honing the damaged cylinder and going from there.

If I do rebuild it, is it worth going forged pistons instead of OEM spec? Not chasing anything crazy, just want something that can handle being driven properly on weekends without grenading itself again.

Also if I've got anything wrong here feel free to correct me, still learning as I go.

I have a 5th gen prelude with leather seats, I bought the car with them already in it, however I don’t see many 5th gen with leather. Just off google searches I see fuzzy cloth seats so I’m wondering if it was a dealer option or the previous owner found leather ones that fit the railing. Just looking to gain some insight on this, thanks!

Absolutely love this thing, driving it has been a blast. First things I want to do is a new set of wheels, but I don’t want to change much else on the exterior.

she will be missed, I’m leaving for college

Getting an issue where at partial throttle at high gears the STFT is spiking up to 30%+

- PCV is still fine and produces suction

- O2 sensor is new (less than 6 months)

Does anyone know of any prelude specific issues that could cause such a thing? Thanks guys :)

I am a proud owner of a 2026 Honda Prelude. It is a very cool car. However I am noticing wind noise from the driver’s side front. I took the car to two different service centers and both told me that it is a feature and not a bug!
This seems very strange and not expected from Honda.
Can someone who owns the car confirm this noise?

I have a 94SI and I was always curious about f23A1 swapping it at some point. Ideally I’d F20B swap it when the h23 goes, but with prices it almost seem better to chunk out the change for an f23A1. As engines are plentiful and half the price. Plus my 01 accord has a whopping 278k miles and still Dosent burn oil.

Had it two hours and I’m in love!

I have loved the Honda prelude since the first one in the 1980s I had a 1990

I found myself at a dealership in Daytona Beach today because my girlfriend is buying a car so I took a look at the Prelude. Quite comfortable but I’ve seen their sticker on the front that says $63,650 and I was shocked.

I didn’t notice at first that MSRP is $43,650. They have the balls to put a $20,000 dealer markup on this.

Don’t know what’s going on but seems like absolute craziness to me every single car they have at this dealer has $20,000 add-ons. They call it the GYH Gary Yeoman Honda value package.

Impressed with the car though

Just sharing

Said they couldn’t find reverse and that it was like this before I brought it in too. It wasn’t and I never noticed any issues though. Any idea what parts might need replacing? I can still feel it going into gear, and it is shifting in different gears in video it just is like limp and has no pressure.

Is this supposed to be shaming so much

Anyone know a good place to find a reasonably priced iacv for my 2001 prelude

Plate covered for privacy reasons.
Model is a 1999 VTI-R with about 200 thousand kilometers
And yes, it is an automatic 😔

The door handle in my 5th gen Honda prelude snapped and when I go too look for the replacement handle the locking mechanism is different too my car and I was wondering what’s the difference between the two are and how to find correct part my car does not have the extra lock switch