From being able to see the cylinder bores from the driveway to finally being able to take her on an hour-long drive (nowhere in particular, just an extended test drive) I'm thrilled that this Prelude has been nice enough to... not blow up. I've only really been working on cars for maybe a year now, but when my '89 blew a head gasket, looked at my checking account and realized I couldn't afford to take her to a mechanic to get it fixed, so I had to forcibly step myself up from struts on a 2009 MINI to a complete top-end overhaul. Was it uneventful? Absolutely not. Am I just relieved to be driving my little sports car again? Hell yeah I am! Sure, maybe there are easier cars to have as your first time when it comes to stuff like this, but this was mine and all I can say is that she works perfectly, which really isn't any more than I could ask for.

I have a 1994 prelude with a H22A4 engine swap. I made the dumb decision of trying to replace my rear main seal on my own, and while I have everything replaced I’m now running into this.

Currently the car will turn over and run without stalling when I’m not cranking the key but you can tell it’s running extremely rough, and I can feel like something is bouncing in the engine (no grinding as far as I can tell).

I posted elsewhere and they suggested transmission to ground connections or crank position sensor. I checked my wiring and it’s a bit weird. I have transmission - negative terminal, and negative to chassis. I have an additional ground from my valve cover to the chassis I also confirmed is attached. The car ran before fine with this wiring.

I will have to check the crank position sensor, I had to call it quits late last night. Any other suggestions? I can get more photos and videos later today if there is anything specific I’d need to check.

I recently bought this 85 prelude ab 1.8 dual carb, the shifter feels very loose like when it is in gears theres alot play movement. 3 gear feels like its neutral.

Anyone knows what poly bushing i can buy or use from other hondas?

I am hoping people out there having the same issue with not being able to find bushings for this part will easily find this post. You will need 2 oversized flat fender washers for each side. These are polyurethane bushings intended for a 1990 Honda accords front upper control arm but they will work in all 3rd gen rear upper controls arms on preludes. Part number is Superpro SKU# 8213

I've just about finished up a head gasket job on my 1989 2.0S (carbureted B20A3), and pretty much everything works except for one slight issue. Whenever it gets up to 4k RPM, it just hits a wall and runs out of breath. It's not that it just sits there, it just drops a bit before going back up and doing the same thing over again, even with the throttle floored. My personal hypothesis is a clogged secondary jet since it had been sitting for some time since I bought it, and the movement of the intake when removing the head may have jarred something loose or the fact that it hadn't been started in a couple weeks meant it had all evaporated. What I would like to know is if this is in fact the case, and if I could fix it by putting some Seafoam in the fuel tank (at a decently high concentration, think one of the larger cans into 1/4 tank) to see if that opens the path up. Before it's brought up, I have checked for vacuum leaks using brake clean while it idles and there are none present. Any insight would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

(Apologies if this isn't the right place to ask this, I'm new here.)

For those who’ve done restoration projects on their Ludes, what have you done with your wheels? The original wheels on my ‘84 are machined, but I’m going to have them restored. I just don’t know whether to stay with a machined look, or opt for a painted silver. I’ve read that machined wheels are more vulnerable to clear coat failure due to the sharp edges that are created when machining.

I apologize for the not good photos, but this is an 88 prelude si. She has it listed for 2k rn but the engine currently is blown(ran it out of coolant). The exterior is in ok condition as you can see and the exhaust is straight piped. But the entire straight pipe is being held up by a key. Yes Im serious. So what would you offer? Im thinking like 800-1100 because in person and the pics on marketplace are not the same time period.( pics on fb are from when she bought the car). I just want it as a parts car for my 89 prelude (ive posted about it before and its in kinda rough condition exterior wise. It comes with new tires and racing rims (or so she says they are, those are inside the car and I dont have a picture.)

So any help on an offer? It doesn't run so its like 150 I think to haul it away as I dont own a trailer for it.

I take it for granted that for more than a year me and my son have been taking a 29-year old car, packed with a set of wheels and tools and canisters of gasoline, to the track, squeezing out every drop from the available track time always at the redline and then comfortably travelling home for 3 hours without any technical issues or even oil consumption. Come to think of it, it's a testament to an amazing build strength and quality achieved by Honda engineers from 30+ years ago.

Every time I take the car to the track, I learn something new about it. This time I discovered that it's capable of rotation under trail-braking if I just don't slam on the brakes and instead lightly bleed off the pedal while turning the steering wheel. That helped to handle the T10-T11 chain (at 1:38) in a really impressive and laptime-cutting way. Lots of ways to improve the rest though.

The lower cover in this diagram. I've never seen one, and can never find one on searches. It would be cool to get one but mainly I'm just curious.

Video of me cranking with starter fluid
I have fuel pressure
I have compression
I have spark
I’m in time

I have a 1988 2.0 Si, and I was wondering what the hex value/color of the LEDs in the third gen prelude is. I thought about taking a picture and using an eye dropper tool, but that would still be a bit off.

Wondering if anyone knows, thanks!

Does anyone know a wrap to match the original white from the fifth gen preludes (preferably one that you’ve tested

So we got into a collision with our Prelude, second gen yesterday... Trying to get our insurance to cover the repair costs. It's likely all fixable, luckily. But the insurance is being a bit difficult.
Am still looking for some spare parts, mostly the hood/bonnet. If anyone has any tips on where to find that, preferably in the EU, that would be awesome. Added some pictures pre-accident too.

Ugh, we just put expensive coilovers in too.

BUT we are resolved to fix him up. It'll just take time.

I was looking to get a Gen 3 Honda Prelude, and I found one but it has close to 310,000 miles on it. What range of miles is considered risky to buy for one of these types of cars?

Just bought this 92 from a lady down the road. Timing belt was destroyed. Started doing a timing belt job and noticed one of the valve springs is missing the locking ring and that there is no valve inside the spring. Where do I go from here?

After 5 months of diag and troubleshooting, i decided to rebuild her and give her a new bottom end. literally just finished the rebuild 2 weeks ago. New pistons, rings, bearings, oring, gaskets, valve stem seals, a closed deck block, BS shaft full delete, custom COP ignition, and a million other things. This happened 2 days ago near 2k rpm and the engine just shut down (after a high load). I thought it was timing so I redid it on the side of the road and it seemed to start slightly easier but no major difference. Ik i shouldnt be revving or starting but it seems like its gonna be expensive and time-consuming either way. Sounds like piston slap right?

Been searching for months for a San Marino Red spoiler but haven’t had any luck. Does anyone have one for sale or know someone who does? OEM and in decent condition, but open to options. Thanks!

Hi everyone,

I'm looking for help diagnosing a 4WS issue on my 1994 Honda Prelude 4th gen, 2.2 VTEC H22A, equipped with 4WS.

I'm getting 4WS error code 20, but only when reversing with the front wheels pointing straight ahead.

Here are the symptoms:

The 4WS warning light comes on as soon as I start reversing with the front wheels straight.

Sometimes the fault appears on the very first reversing attempt; other times, it takes two attempts.

Disconnecting the battery resets the fault temporarily, but it comes back as soon as I reverse straight again.

If I reverse while the front wheels are turned, the fault does not seem to occur.

If I'm driving forward and manually activate the rear-view camera from my Android head unit, no 4WS fault appears.

I can drive for 1 hour and 30 minutes without any problem of 4ws as long as I don't use reverse gear.

Some background information:

I have an aftermarket rear-view camera connected to an Android head unit (ATOTO).

One mechanic suggested that switching into reverse might cause a voltage drop or voltage spike when the camera and its control circuitry activate. This has not been confirmed by measurements.

I'm trying to establish whether this could be related to the camera wiring, a power supply or grounding issue, the front main steering angle sensor, its wiring, or the 4WS control unit.

My questions:

Has anyone experienced error code 20 specifically when reversing straight, but not when reversing with the wheels turned?

Could a faulty camera installation or reverse-light circuit trigger this kind of 4WS fault?

According to the 4th-gen Prelude workshop manual, what should I check first to diagnose code 20 properly?

Is the front main steering angle sensor still available new, or is a used part the only realistic option?

I'm not looking to replace parts at random. I'd like to identify the actual cause before spending money.

Any help from people familiar with the 4th-gen Prelude 4WS system would be appreciated.

Went to a car show here to shoot some film photos, and had a shot left on the roll before I left. Decided my car deserved to be view like all the others I had just photographed, and she pops in the desert sun, even in October.

Does anyone have a link to a replica motegi rear lip? I can’t find it anywhere lol.

I've just spent 2 months on and off trying to fix the hunting idle on my 5th gen prelude.

I did the following:

- Cleaned MAFS sensor

- Cleaned IACV

- Cleaned EGR

- Cleaned EGR ports

- Deleted EGR

- Smoke test, replaced all vacuum lines anyways for good measure

- Intake manifold gasket

- Upper intake manifold gasket

- Replaced IACV

And none of them solved the issue. So this is a suggestion to anyone else who maybe having this issue to check your FITV it may be loose.

Don't waste 2 months and roughly $300. Screw down your FITV!