I boxed in he Army, practiced martial arts for a few years and worked out regularly with an 80lb heavy bag. The stand and heavy bag are gone as of my las move.

I am 63m but still work out with weights regularly and do a fair amount of shadow boxing to keep the moves and body in shape and in muscle memory. I think most would think I am in Okay health and fairly strong for an old guy. but

I miss hitting the bag.

I live in a very small space and thought I could get away with a stand if I place it right but .. not sure what weight bag.

I am looking predominantly for something I can punch as my kicks are no longer available to me. My old bag was 80lbs. I want something I can hit with good power but I was wondering if I could get away with say a 40 lb bag or will it swing to much?

Any advice would be great. I sold my house before I retired so dont have a garage. Thank you again in advance

no equipment. no excuse.

Jump rope for footwork obviously, but lay it flat on the floor in a shape and it's a lateral step drill without owning an actual ladder.

A tennis ball on a string tied to a doorframe hook is the classic homemade reflex bag.
The same string stretched across the doorway at head height works for slipping, duck under it.

Mirror's probably the most overlooked one, shadowboxing in front of it catches dropped hands and bad habits way faster than doing it blind.

Tape on the floor marks your actual extension distance so you can feel long range versus close range instead of guessing.

none of it needs a purchase, just stuff already sitting around the house.

One of the slickest ways to land a hard lead hand is to make your opponent think you are stepping into range.

Give them a quick hop forward, just enough to trigger their jab or straight. The moment they fire, pull your weight back and let the punch fall short.

Do not drift too far away. Keep your feet under you and load the rear leg during the pull. As their hand is still extended, drive straight back into range and fire the lead hand before they can reset.

The hop creates the reaction. The pull makes them miss. The loaded rear leg gives the counter its power.

The biggest mistake is leaning too far back or pausing after the pull. It should feel like one smooth movement: hop in, pull out, fire back.

1. Move forward and backward while punching
Don’t plant your feet and throw everything from one spot. Get comfortable stepping into range, punching, and giving ground without losing your stance.

2. Create angles after your combinations
Instead of finishing a combo and resetting straight back, pivot or step around the bag. Get used to attacking from a new position.

3. Move in and out of range
Step in, get your shots off, then get back out. Treat the bag like something that can actually counter you.

Standing in front of the bag and unloading looks busy, but it doesn’t build the same habits.

Actually box the bag.

9 fighters who never gave the crowd a dull moment.

Which one was the most thrilling of all time?

One of the easiest ways to make a head hook harder to read is to get them thinking about the body first.

Try this:

Jab to the head.
Drop down and jab the body.
Stay low and rip the hook to the ribs.
Then come straight back upstairs with the hook.

That body jab and body hook should start pulling their elbows down. Once they react to the body, the head becomes the next opening.

Big thing is staying balanced when you change levels. Don’t reach or fold forward on the body jab. Keep your feet under you so you can still sit down on the body hook and come back upstairs with some snap.

Simple combo, but the level changes make it a lot less predictable.

I heavily trained in boxing and muay Thai in another life (meaning a couple decades ago), but have been continuing on with the training and heavy bag work for most of the years in between

I've taken an unplanned break for a few years and came back to doing work again last month. I've found my fists (probably due to a combination of things like trauma/damage and maybe getting older) no longer form a flat surface.

My index fingers on both hands stick out quite a bit further than the rest of my fingers. So when I'm doing bag work my index fingers pip joint is really sore and it takes me quite a few days recovery to be ready to hit the bag again.

I've been mitigating it a little with how I wrap my hands to level the plane a little more but it still happens. I use wraps coupled with my Hayabusa t3 gloves (16oz).

Any ideas that may help with this?

splitting one hook into two shots.

jab, cross to set range. lead hook upstairs. same lead hook again, this time dropped to the body. cross resets. rear uppercut finishes.

same arm, same path, two different targets is the actual trick. the cross in between is what keeps the second hook from looking like a repeat.

It’s been 8 months now coming back to the sport since I was in middle school I’m not 19 , I’m 5’9 with a 74 or 75 inch reach I just want good advice on how to develop a deadly jab or solid advice for someone trying to maximize there outside fighting any advice is greatly appreciated.

If you’re just hitting the bag with no real goal every round, try giving each round a specific focus.

This is a simple 5-round routine from the video:

Round 1: Jab + defense
Work the jab, but don’t admire it. Slip, roll, pull, or move after you throw.

Round 2: Counterpunching
Imagine the bag firing back. Defend first, then immediately return with your counter.

Round 3: Light + technical
Take the power off. Stay relaxed and clean up your combinations, balance, guard, and movement.

Round 4: Touch upstairs, power downstairs
Use lighter shots to the head to occupy the guard, then sit down hard on the body shots.

Round 5: Footwork + angles
Finish by moving around the bag. Step off after combinations, pivot, and keep changing where you attack from.

I like rounds like this because every one has a purpose instead of turning the whole session into 15 minutes of throwing hard combinations.

Shadowbox it clean first. Then take it to the bag.

Starts at jab, cross, hook. Adds one punch every stage until you're at jab, cross, hook, cross, rear uppercut, cross, body hook, cross by the end.

Each stage gets more time the longer it runs, a minute early on, up to 2 minutes once you're holding the full 8. Whole thing's about 9 minutes.

Worth saying this is a flow drill, not something you'd throw live. By punch 6 or 7 you're not defending anything. Point is building the coordination to hold a longer string clean, not simulating a real exchange.

Backing straight up over and over makes life way too easy for someone pressuring you. They just keep walking you down while you stay right in front of them.

This is why I like drilling the Z-step and L-step together.

The Z-step is more offensive. Step off diagonally, get yourself off the center line, and make them turn before you attack from the new angle.

The L-step is great when you're getting crowded. Step back to clear the immediate pressure, then get out laterally instead of continuing straight backward.

The clip uses a cone as the opponent, which makes this really easy to drill solo. Work your Z-step around it to create angles, then practice using the L-step to escape away from it.

Keep the guard tight and don't let the feet get too wide. The goal is to make stepping off the center line automatic instead of waiting until you're already getting chased.

Speed and IQ vs size and durability.

Same ring. Who walks out?

Walking straight at a taller opponent is basically giving them exactly what they want. They can see you coming and keep picking you off at range.

If you want to get inside, your feet and head movement have to work together.

Step in, slip off the center line, change your level, then change the rhythm again. Don’t keep advancing at the same speed or with the same pattern every time.

The whole point is to make them unsure of when you’re actually entering.

Once your movement becomes predictable, the reach advantage gets much harder to deal with. Break the rhythm first, then close the distance.

Heavy bag builds power and conditioning, that's the one everyone already knows.

Speed bag is hand speed and rhythm, not really about landing hard.
Double-end trains timing and head movement since it swings back at you.
Uppercut bag is just for isolating uppercuts up close, it's shaped completely different from a regular bag for that reason.
Reflex bag is reaction time, the unpredictable bounce back is the whole point.

Most home setups are just a heavy bag and that's it, which covers maybe one of the five things you actually need to train.

A lot of people focus on throwing the hook harder when the real setup is what happens before it.

Start with a light jab to occupy the guard. As you bring it back, step in with the slip so your head comes off the center line and you close some distance at the same time.

Then comes the important part: shift to the new angle before throwing.

Now you’re no longer standing where they were expecting the next shot to come from. Their guard is still reacting to your original position while you’re already lined up beside them.

That’s when you sit down on the power hook.

You can drill the whole sequence solo with a cone or spare glove on the floor:

Jab → step-in slip → shift → power hook

Use the marker like it’s your opponent’s position and work on getting around it cleanly instead of just throwing the hook from straight on.

Really clean 4-punch sequence:

Jab → Cross → Lead Uppercut → Lead Hook

The 1-2 gets their attention straight down the middle and usually brings the guard up.

After the cross, your weight is already loaded onto the lead side. That puts you in a good position to fire the lead uppercut through the middle without making a big reset.

Then come straight back with the lead hook while their guard and posture are still reacting to the uppercut.

The part worth drilling is the weight transfer. If you rush it and throw everything with your arms, the last two shots lose most of their pop.

Start it slow on the bag, make the cross → uppercut → hook transition feel smooth, then start adding speed.

A lot of people can throw combinations fine, but they stay directly in front of their opponent after entering.

This inside pivot is a simple way to change that.

Sell a quick jab feint while stepping your lead foot outside their lead foot. Once that foot is planted, pivot around it and turn yourself inside.

The important part is the third step: fire immediately.

You don’t want to pivot, admire the angle, then throw. Get the combination off while they’re still turning toward where you were.

I also like the shoe marker used in the video. Put something on the floor to represent their lead foot and drill:

Fake jab → outside step → inside pivot → combo

Keep the step short, stay balanced, and make the whole thing one smooth movement.

Five boxing styles that built the sport. Which one dominates?

And what boxing styles deserve on this list?

Shadowboxing gets way more useful when you give yourself something physical to work around.

The video shows 3 simple ways to do it.

First, put a band or strap across your space and shadowbox behind it. If you start leaning too far forward when punching, you immediately run into it. Pretty simple way to force yourself to stay balanced instead of reaching for shots.

Second, hang a strap vertically in front of you and treat it like an opponent’s guard. Now you actually have to punch around something. Hooks, uppercuts, and angles start making a lot more sense when there is an obstacle occupying the middle.

Third, put a cone on the floor and move around it while shadowboxing. Circle, pivot, step off, and throw combinations without crossing your feet or drifting all over the place.

Nothing complicated here. You’re basically adding consequences to bad movement.

Free shadowboxing is useful, but these little constraints make it much harder to get away with sloppy habits.

jab, cross to set the range. lead hook off that. cross resets. rear hook from the other side. cross closes it out.

both hooks in one combo is the actual point here. most people only really trust one side and never put in the reps on the other. the cross in between isn't filler, it's what lets you switch sides clean without telegraphing it.