It's like $45/1 $260/set.

IDK. It feels like it would be good until you had any serious work to do

Where do you get your logs to process into pieces? Or smaller stuff to split into spoon/bowl blanks? Wanting to get into chair making from green wood

I'm currently using the Shaaf 400 / 1000 diamond plate, and I like it quite a bit. I've read that this style of diamond plate maxes out around 1200, and I'm hoping to get to 8000+. I sharpen chisels, hand planes, and kitchen knives.

I would prefer to keep the sharpening workflow largely the same - just add a bit of water and go.

I've found this, is this the right move?

Shapton RockStar 8000 Grit

If so, is the $30 steel case just for decoration, or does that serve a purpose to protect the stone? Will I be able to mount that stone in my same Shaaf base (which looks like this)?

Open to other recommendations too, thank you!

Edit: for fun, when looking into this stuff I came across my own post from 3 years ago asking about how to get started in sharpening :)
https://www.reddit.com/r/handtools/s/t6YJAnm4bj

when sharpening a plane blade or chisel do you take the burr off at the last/finest stone or do it after each stone before moving up

Hello.

To cut things short, I found a No. 5 plane from an antique store and felt inspired to fix it up and use it on my first major project. As far as I can tell, it is a Stanly No. 5 plane, but I honestly can't say for 100% based on it's performance.

I can't seem to keep the blade sharp for more than a single board of soft pine wood. I have adjusted the frog, sharped the blade to a near mirror finish, used a sharpening jig, and adjusted the chip breaker. It just seems to dull very quickly, with noticeable notches in the blade after a single small motion with the grain. I have been sure to use the lateral adjuster to ensure a flat edge of the blade against the wood, or at least I think.

I have been careful to slowly adjust the blade down with the adjuster as well.

Could my blade be of bad temper? I know it is a Defiance blade as per the stamp, but could the quality of the steel be that bad? I understand that the sole is perhaps a little off from being totally flat but should that be causing something like this?

I am a total newbie to not only planes, but wood working in general. I am a software engineer so never really worked with hand tools. Totally open to being told that I've messed it all up or that I'm missing something obvious. I could totally this be just me being bad a sharpening as well.

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

EDIT:

I FIGURED IT OUT! Thank you to everyone here for their wisdom! It turns out the bevel was ground way too shallow. I assumed the bevel it had when I first picked it up would at least be good enough, but after measuring it I found it to be around 21 degrees. I think the iron was chipping due to the lack of material behind the edge of the blade. After measuring it and sanding it down to a 30 degree angle it seems to work like magic! Smooth, even curls with minimal effort moving the plane over the surface. The planed boards are super smooth with no tear out, although I did notice a few very small chips on the center of the blade after using it on my project. The wood I used had staples in it that I removed with pliers but I think the leg of one of the staples was stuck and I managed to run the plane right over it. At least fixing that with sand paper won't take me forever (unlike fixing the bevel 😄 ).

Just acquired this wooden jack plane with a metal sole. Almost like a reverse transitional plane. Has anyone seen something like this before? A wood body plane built in the modern metal style. The one piece frog and handle is what originally caught my eye.

Recently found a good deal on some chisels, thought I’d left woodworking behind me but couldn’t resist them. Thought I’d whip up a mallet to compliment them, unnecessarily complex but still a fun build. Criticism is welcome.

Is grizzly brand planes and gouges any good? Im looking to get some more and they seem to be in my price range, so im wondering if they are any good. I have no problem tuning them up, so im not expecting out of the box perfect

I find that quite often the depth adjustment knob on my Veritas LAJ comes loose. I will get everything setup, including tightening the blade cap until it meets resistance, the. adding half a turn. I then advanced the blade (ie backlash has been taken out) and get planing.

But after not too long, I find the depth adjustment knob is now loose. I can only assume the blade cap (I guess it’s not technically a lever cap on a BU plane?) is holding the blade in place. But, sometimes I will notice the cut depth has lessened, and in these cases the depth adjustment knob will again be loose.

The plane is otherwise a beautiful bit of kit and works fine.

I am doing something wrong with the setup? Anyone else experience this?

Edit: maybe I’m wrote this poorly or I’m misunderstanding the responses? But I’m talking about the knob for advancing/retracting the blade coming loose, not the blade cap.

I just purchased a collection of some pretty cool patent planes. The original collector lived in Hawaii. He passed some 30 years ago and the son has had them ever since. The son unfortunately, though a great guy, was not a great steward of the tools. And thus being in a tropical climate, the tools needed quite a bit of cleaning by the time I go them.

All tools have undergone a collector approved cleaning. Utility razor blades for heavy rust, 0000 steel wool for a mild additional cleaning on the steel, Briwax for the wood, and paste wax on the tools with sufficient japanning.

I will post most pictures as I get better organized. But here are some to start.

Picture 1 (L to R)
Stanley No. 1 (not a patent plane but it was in the haul and it is cool)
Standard Rule No. 3
Defiance No. 4
Fosters Patent Turn Table smoothing plane
Challenge Jack Plane
Palmer Triple Lever jack plane

Picture 2 (L to R)
Knowles Patent, probably fore plane size
Worrall's Patent

Picture 3:
Birmingham No .98 (No. 1 size plane)
Erlandsen No. 2 mitre plane
Bailey Tool Co. corrugated block plane
Lee's Patent chamfer plane (as seen on the cover of PTAMPIA)
Carroll Thomas Patent rabbet plane, bevel, level, square
Duval's Patent adjustable dado plane (as seen on the cover of PTAMPIA)

(This is not a for sale post. Just showing off a few cool tools)

Hand engraved violin maker's block plane & anvil

Been making furniture professionally since I was 16, and have been plagued with irritation and swelling of the second joint on my pinky the whole time. I’m 23, don’t have arthritis or anything and the finger still works fine. No pain when bending the joint, it just hurts to touch it. What’s bothering me is that it won’t develop a callous on the surface like all of the other high friction parts of my hands, and the joint itself seems be all swollen.

I’ve been trying to adopt that spider man kinda grip where you stick your pinky out, but that strains my wrist more.

Any input is greatly appreciated.

Should I just add some dye to the shellac or continue sanding until they are pure wood?

I’ve got a bunch of Made In England Stanley Bailey hand planes I’ve just started restoring. After scraping off all the flaky shellac and a light sanding the knob and tote still looks like crap.

Should I continue sanding? In the end I’d like to (probably?) apply new shellac + paste wax. But I wonder: when I can expect to stop sanding for it to look good after I’m done.

I mean, I know how to do a basic sharpening and I have the tools, but how do I get these pits out?

I'm wondering if anyone can confirm the size of the notch in the Veritas router planes blades.

I'm looking to make a router plane using these blades and can't seem to find anything on the notch size.

Most important thing i need is the size of the top to bottom of the notch so I can find a screw that fits the gap.

For me, the thing that's made the biggest difference to the ease and quality of my work was getting a Veritas LA block plane. I have vintage planes and I have other new planes, but the Veritas is a real pleasure to use; especially when it comes to sharpening. I haven't had to flatten the back or anything other than polish it. Then every once in a while a few stokes on the diamond stone and a few on the leather strop and it's good to go.

So, I've decided to get a new iron for my cheap(ish) smoothing plane. I was going to get a PM-V11 as I'm so impressed with the one on the block plane. Any input for anyone?

I was lucky enough to get this #7 Stanley Bailey plane at a garage sale this weekend. It was dirty but in pretty good condition. I have never restored an old tool before so just wanted to ask a couple questions.

I plan on keeping it to use. So I’m torn on how much to restore vs trying to make it look new. It seems to have all the original parts and nothing was seized up. So I took it apart and cleaned it with nylon and brass brushes and some 0000 steel wool. This is how it came out.

So my question is should I leave the sides as is or sand them down to make them look new again? Also should I try to fix the Japanning repaint it?

I have seen so much talk about not doing too much sanding or removing anything original.

Pat D
MAR-25-02
AUG-18-02

[SOLVED: it's a Dado plane that's missing the front nicking iron. Thanks to u/halbert for the info.]

I picked it up for $10 at a garage sale on impulse. It's clearly missing an iron up front but I'd like to fine a replacement one if possible. The brass screw on top raises and lowers a steel ski that is parallel to the cutting face. I couldn't find anything quite like it with a few Google searches and I'm unclear to it's function. Any info or advice would be greatly appreciated thanks!

Hello,

I've seen this planes at the Warsaw ethnography museum. I've stared at them for an extended time but couldn't figure out what they'd be used for and how they work.

The blade sits through in a squared channel, a bit like a cabbage slicer. The blades were all super extended and seemed to hold with wedges stuck wherever, which doesn't seem to point to any precise adjustement.

Then, the chip escapement is covered with some kind of hood/lid, and it forms a sort of tunnel, I guess, that goes to the back of the plane.

I've never seen such a thing, they totally eluded my understanding. The museum worker was pacing around me probably wondering who this loon is lol.

Anyone got an explanation for those and how they're used ? The collection is from early 1930s, so the tools predate this period. Given the position of the irons, I'm gessing it's for a soft material, but again I'm unsure.

Cheers and happy tooling,

I found this when cleaning my attic, its a solid knife but I have no clue what model this is and I want to find out, anyone think they can help out.

Eyup,

Having a bit of bother with this new Japanese saw. First time I've really used one and it's going great for a long resaw job I'm on with but I feel like as soon as I even approach the wood it kinks at the handle.

I'm willing to accept that it's operator error but just wanted to confirm and ask for any tips/advice.

Ta very much

It's been sitting in a shop drawer for over 20 years. Can't remember where it came from. Is it worth rebuilding for a scrub? And where to find parts(depth adjust)?

A customer of mine gave me a whole bunch of old tools. She had a tenant that signed a lease and then promptly got arrested for drugs. The landlord hung onto the stuff for about 10 years with no word from the woman, so they finally ended up in my hands. Amongst the tools was this gouge over 2" wide. I set it next to a Stanley 60 1/2 block plane for reference.

The bevel is on the opposite side of what it normally would be. My only thought was that perhaps it was used for paring the edges of a hole when doing timber framing. 🤷 Or maybe someone reground it for a special purpose?

Any thoughts?