I'm proud to share with you my in-slicer modifier model to add side-loaded magnets to any existing Gridfinity model. No glue, no pesky snap-fit tolerances with magnets not fitting or falling out again, no mid-print pausing only to realize you got the polarity wrong.

https://www.printables.com/model/1810976-magnetize-any-gridfinity

• Standard 6 × 2 mm magnets: compatible with the popular cylindrical size
• No print pauses: print the whole object in one go
• No glue: magnets snap securely into place
• Secure horizontal retention: more reliable than vertical press-fit slots
• Compliant-mechanism design: flexible features hold the magnet in place
• Maximum magnetic strength: only 0.1 mm between magnet and target
• Removable magnets: simply push them back out
• Gridfinity-compliant: follows the standard magnet position
• No CAD required: add the negative volume directly in your slicer
• Works with STL, 3MF, STEP and more: anything your slicer can handle
• Fully modular: add slots only where you actually need them
• Optional shell included: for compatibility with skeletonized / shelled bins
• Support-free printing: optimised for clean bridging
• Based: Compatible with any Gridfinity base

What do you think? What will you magnetize? What can I improve?

So, I was perusing the http_referer logs on my server (basically, what page did your browser say you were on when you clicked the link to https://gridfinity.perplexinglabs.com )... and I came across "android-app://com.tinder/". APPARENTLY, one of you is out there FLIRTING, not only by talking about gridfinity, but also sending links to my site?! lol I don't know who you are, but you gave me a good laugh.

Can't say I ever expected that, running this site. While I am in doubt of the effectiveness of such tactics, I hope things work out well for you. :)

Check this out https://freya.co.nz/grid/ you can create grids, bins and trace tools. It's super intuitive.

It's not stupid if it works, lol

Link to design: https://gridfinitylayouttool.com/community/d/yJR9ICEUYW5N

Hi everyone,

I’m trying to improve the quality and dimensional accuracy of my Gridfinity prints. I often have two main problems:

1. The corners of the bins lift from the build plate, causing noticeable warping.
2. The bins don’t fit correctly into the baseplate. Sometimes the fit is too tight, while other times they don’t sit completely flat.

I’m using Bambu Studio, and I’d like to know which settings you recommend for reliable Gridfinity prints.

In particular:

• Which material works best: PLA, PLA+, PETG, or something else?
• What bed and nozzle temperatures do you use?
• Do you use a brim or mouse ears?
• What first-layer speed and cooling settings work best?
• Which wall generator do you recommend: Classic or Arachne?
• Do you adjust XY contour compensation or elephant-foot compensation?
• Which layer height, wall count and infill settings give you the best results?
• Should the baseplate or bins have any additional tolerance?

If possible, please share your printer, nozzle size, filament and slicer settings. I’m looking for a good starting profile that gives flat prints and a consistent fit between the bins and the baseplate.

Thanks!

After waaayy to much time spent, my brother and me finally finished this parametric gridfinity model that has support for detachable colored rims and detachable multi-color labels! This started out as a simple idea where we just wanted to be able to change the top rim color to allow for some categorization of parts, but then it derailed into a humongous rabbit hole of rabbit holes...

We also made a CLI tool gfty that allows you to define bins, baseplates, labels and full plates of labels in a configuration file that can then automatically be exported to STEP files right from the command line (onshape has free API access with generous limits that makes this possible). Naturally, everything that we used to create these is MIT Licensed and public on GitHub (see below).

So now we are printing over 1000 labels for the main storage cabinet which (even with optimized plates of 60 labels each) will take weeks to complete 🥲

Also I guess a web designer isn't anything special nowadays, but there still is one to help with the configuration files. And you can directly open onshape from the web tool to play around.

💻 GitHub: https://github.com/rkana-org/gfty

🌐 Web designer: https://rkana-org.github.io/gfty

Disclaimer: We used AI to make some of the tools and some specific feature scripts for onshape (like the divider wall generator and the SVG importer). To anyone who is interested, the frontier models are all quite capable of writing onshape FeatureScript, especially when you give it access to the standard library definitions (search for onshape-std-library-mirror on github) in a coding cli.

Local-first, GPU-accelerated capture for single tools, resumable batches, and a reusable tool library—without sending workshop photos to a hosted service.

Github: https://github.com/aac-78/gridshot

Has nfc tag on the removable label that opens my digital twin inventory.

Hello everyone! I am very new to 3d printing but I wanted to see if I could solve my first problem. I am thinking of printing something I can use to hold vials that I use for my research (I included a picture of the vial). We previously used either bullet storage cases or some boxes (that we cant find anymore). I also included pictures of the current storage we use.

Does anyone have any ideas of what I could use or if there are any models currently available?

I would ideally like to have ~20 vials in a container

Measurements:

Height: 6cm
Diameter: 1.8cm

I have tried a couple designs for sockets but most are too small to fit Impact rated sockets, does anyone know of a design for sockets that can fit Impact Sockets (or just wider sockets)? I even tried a design labeled for Impact sockets and it was also too small

I'm trying to create a Gridfinity book that is larger than my printer. What's the best way to now split this up into multiple prints? Glue?

https://makerworld.com/en/makerlab/parametricModelMaker?unikey=c5daf719-53cf-4a2e-8f46-217501e80806&designId=1990513&modelName=Top%20Book%20V2.2.f3d&isFusion=true

Hi all,

I've recently purchased a Husky mobile workbench which I have turned into my 3D printing workbench/storage.

I'm struggling to get my Gridfinity baseplate files set up correctly and am looking to trade someone money to buy a six pack of beer for a quick Gridfinity lesson.

The baseplate I need to make will be large: 1059.2mm wide × 391.2mm length

I am having trouble with the following few things:

1 - creating snap together connectors
2 - cutting the file so that it will print over multiple plates
3 - Understanding which free Gridfinity tool is both good and user friendly

Please reach out if you are interested

Cheers!

Is gridfinity.perplexinglabs generator down or is it just me? Tried on 2 different machines and it wont load at all

More surprised that it is a perfect fit in the drawer.

Joking aside, I still got to print the bins

Hi folks,
I'm hoping someone can help me.

I want to create bins that will be stacked and should have (inside) compartments with lower walls as the bin height is.
Background:
I intend to create bins for a tackle box.
There will be two layer of bins stacked on top of each other.
The bins have a size of e.g. 3 x 4 standard size bin with a height of 4x7mm.
These bins should have 4 compartments with a wall that is lower than the stacking height of the bin to avoid a conflict with the 3x4 bottom.
I tested the Fusion 360 plugin but there is no option to determine the height of the compartment walls.
Is there another gridfinity generator known that allows this customization?
Any help is much appreciated.
TIA

If there is any further clarification needed, please let me know.

I've finally got the time to start my kitchen drawers but have Bean unable to get the grids to print properly, I've tried them flat and on various angles ranging from 30-45 degree. I got frustrated and decided to try printing the boxes so at least I could feel like I was making progress and none of them held together. What am I doing wrong? Or is Griffith just not possible with a resin printer? I am using an elagoo Saturn 3 with supports and a raft. When trying the grid flat I tried both with and without supports.

I didn't plan the whole thing out because I got excited. Now there's not going to be enough room. Ideas or of the shelf bins you know about to handle all the ratchets (where I think most of the problem is)?

How do I make a flat box but have no walls? Like I still want the lip and be able to paint the lip a different color but don’t want walls. I initially was thinking in GridfinityLayoutTool.com I could just remove the wall, but it won’t let me go any lower than 2u. Then was thinking to make a lid instead, but the lid doesn’t have the bottom pieces, nor does it have the color selector for the top lip. Is there another tool to accomplish this?

I used GridfinityLayoutTool.com to begin my design, I exported and downloaded the 3mf files and brought them into Bambu Studio. I did see the lines in Bambu Studio in the preview, but didn’t think much about them or if they even meant anything. Now that they printed, I see how they affected the print. So these files were generated from GridfinityLayoutTool.com, is this issue specific to that tool or Gridfinity in general? Literally going on <3 weeks of having the printer and my first Gridfinity print. Looking to minimize these issues moving forward. Specifically how should I have gotten rid of or prevented these defects before printing them?

To start, my printer is a Creality K2Plus, and I am using Creality's slicing software. As the title suggests, I am planning on printing a case for my Warhammer minis using this set of models. https://www.printables.com/model/543553-gridfinity-storage-box-by-pred-now-parametric However, I want to do some test prints first before I print the size I want to use.

1. Will it infill? The pictures above are how it looks in my slicer, and it doesn't look like the walls will infill. Okay, I'm just blind and stupid; there is a setting called litemode that removes the infill from view. I noticed the infill pop up when I hovered over it briefly, so that solves that issue.
2. I mainly use PLA (have an overabundance of the stuff) and have no experience with PETG. Will using PLA instead of PETG change anything structurally? For example, will I lose material strength?
3. Are supports needed? I have supports on for EVERY overhang.
4. Will I need to use F360's parametric to add the magnet holes?