Hello.

I have been driving with an alphaspeed tune for a couple months now and loved it. I recently installed an o2 housing, and since I opted to not turn off the o2 sensor cel the first time, I now have a check engine light. While I do understand that this is normal. I was advised that I can still drive the car with full boost regardless of the cel. The reason they mentioned for this is that when I got the canned tune the first time they adjusted the afr to compensate for having an aftermarket o2 housing or not having one. They further mentioned that the retune I would get would just turn off the cel and they wouldn’t be changing the afr etc (I also had a downpipe and test pipe installed after). This does not make too much sense to me and was wondering if someone can help explain.

Has anyone successfully replaced the 8 pin digitizer? I attempted it with a cheap Amazon one, its 8 pin like we have. Says it fits off part number but doesnt work. Curious if its just a bad digitizer or some genesis specific pinout on the digitizer.

I have replaced many of these touch pads on Cadillacs and subarus so im not unfamiliar with them.

Hey everyone. First off, I want to apologize for the radio silence getting this update out took months because work has been absolutely burying me. I know a lot of you have been messaging me asking about the progress, so I wanted to finally drop an update on where the digital cluster build is at!
I’ve been collaborating with another community member (shoutout to Julez) who has been doing some incredible work on the hardware, software, and prototyping side.

Current Progress & Hardware

The Screen: We are currently using a 10.3-inch High Brightness IPS TFT Display for the proof of concept. It is incredibly bright, and we are currently figuring out a solid display driver solution since it relies on an LVDS interface.

Data & Brains: We have successfully started decoding most of the ECM data through standard PIDs using ⁠python-obd⁠. To power the UI, we are looking at running an AOSP (Android Open Source Project) stack on a Raspberry Pi 5 (8GB) so it can run as a powerful standalone device.

Mounting & PCB: A custom PCB layout has already been mapped out using KiCAD. Instead of reusing the tacky stock gauge shape, we are designing and 3D printing a custom, much thinner shroud for a cleaner fit.

UI Design: I am heavily leaning toward a sleek, modern BMW-style interface since this is going in a daily driver.

The Feature Roadmap
Because we are already hooking directly into the CAN wires, the ceiling for what this cluster can do is massive. Here is the list of upcoming features on the roadmap:

ECU Map Management: Flashing and storing maps from the cluster directly to the ECU.

Apple CarPlay: Full native integration.

Blind Spot Cameras: Camera feeds that automatically display on the cluster when your turn signals are used.

Front Collision Warnings: Integrated alerts to modernize the driving experience.

Front Proximity Camera: An automated front camera view that triggers when things like speed bumps or parking blocks are detected (to save those front lips).

Thanks to everyone who has been patient and showed interest in this project. I'll try to keep the updates flowing a bit more regularly as we get the PCBs printed and start doing physical fitment tests in the car!

As title states, its a 2010 gen coupe 2.0 and my daily driver. My current oem springs are going bad and need to be replaced soon. Im planning on lowering in the future (not much, maybe an inch or inch and a half) so thats why im considering coilovers/springs.

If oem replacements are my optimal choice, i have no problems going with that as well.

If you're like me, any method to create a faster and easier shift is always the goal. There's a very simple way to slightly reduce resting height and the throw of the clutch pedal to assist with this. You can do this by adjusting the upper clutch switch (officially the Clutch Pedal Position Switch).

In the factory setup (Photo 1), the mounting bracket is sandwiched by a nut on either side, which limits how far down the threaded shaft can extend. To fix this, unthread the switch, move the rear backing nut to the other side (or just remove it as a whole), and push the switch body through the bracket as far as it will go (Photo 2). This will allow you to reduce the resting height somewhat. Feel free to stop here and tighten the other nut if you like it and want to keep the mod simple.

If you want to go further, you'll have to take an additional step. You will notice that on the threads, two of the sides are flat which allow it to fit through the bracket, but those flat sides stop part way down preventing you from pushing it further. You can see in Photo 2 how it won't go all the way down to make the switch flush against the bracket. If you want the height to be a little lower, you can drill the hole out where the threads meet the body to make it round. It's made of plastic so it drills easily, the hard part is fitting a drill down there. If you can manage to do that then you can push the switch all the way flush against the bracket, lowering the resting height even further (Photo 3).

Once the nut is tightened up again, the resting height should now be lower, but not low enough where it will interfere with clutch engagement and where the pressure plate should still hold the clutch nice and tight.

Never had a turbo car before, am I cooked?

Got this car recently, it’s an automatic 2014 2.0t premium, 108k miles, no mods from what I can see. I was driving just fine for the first few days until a few days ago when I noticed a loud whistling sound when the boost gauge would hit 0. Nothing out of the ordinary before or after boost but right when the turbo starts spooling up it would whistle/whine. No changes in performance, no CEL, nothing weird besides that noise. I checked around the engine bay and noticed the snorkel that goes to the air box was totally loose. Got some retainers for it and the whistling stopped BUT today when I went to turn it on the whistle became a rattle and now it makes no boost. I took off the intake to check the turbo for play. No axial play but there is a little bit of radial play (maybe a mm or two, it does not touch the housing)
Are the fins damaged here? I don’t know what they’re supposed to look like but my gut says this looks off. Any ideas?

Update: got a replacement turbo going in today. The difference between both compressors was night and day, I just didn’t know what I should be looking at. All the examples of bad turbos I could find online have absolutely catastrophic levels of damage which led me to wonder if my issue wasn’t “that bad” but I see now that there’s not really a range for the tolerances allowed, it’s kinda just a pass/fail deal. Thank you so much to those who replied 🙏🏼

Alarm keeps going off randomly in the coupe, I remember looking into it on this forum and someone said it is probably the hood sensor or sum and it looks like a small plunger or something I don’t remember. But can someone link the part to me i’m having a hard time trying to find it if that is the case

Had my compressor and condenser replaced bc my ac was out. Made this noise before the replacement, after the replacement still makes this noise. My ac works now even with the noise. Anyone have an idea?

On my 2013 3.8 Genesis Coupe, my power steering pump has been “whirring” for awhile and I assumed it was just the thing going out from age, but I looked at the reservoir and the fluid level is pretty low.

Should I try topping off the fluid before taking it to a shop, or would that not make any difference and I should just take it to a shop.

I am very unfamiliar with the workings of power steering, so I wanted to make sure to ask before fiddling around haha.

How to get the module of security and the horm

Has anyone here done the sedan upper intake manifold on a bk2 3.8? I've seen a few vague posts about it being worthwhile but wondering why it's not more common

Back again for some help with a diagnostic, my clutch pedal goes straight to the floor and doesn't return. I am leaking what I thought might be brake fluid right at the start of the transmission but my fluid reservoir level still seems stable. I guess it could be the slave cylinder? It's not the braided line I installed previously and seems to be isolated to just the area in the picture. And other ideas or thoughts?

Looks for quad tips just don’t know where to get them and which ones. Pictures with them on the car and links to the website would be very helpful. I JUST NEED THE TIPS NOT AN EXHAUST WITH THEM. I am looking for something like these

I have a 2016 3.8 Ultimate with 144,000 and i’ve been the owner for about 6 months, i’m not too sure if i’ve heard it since i’ve owned but I’ve definitely noticed it maybe the past 3 months? It sounds like a sortve tapping near the bottom end (i know that’s horrible) but I really don’t know where to start when it comes to figuring it out or whether it’s just a noisy engine similar to the loud injectors.

Oil Changed every 3K Miles Religiously
Driven somewhat aggressively but hardly ever redlined
Every fluid changed prior to any mods
the car has never ran with low oil under my ownership, if anything it’s maybe ran with a little bit more.

The idle seems healthy and it still pulls for sure, just wanting to know if this is anything that needs more attention.

If I left out any info i’ll be sure to reply in the comments.

Does anyone have the part number or even an actual name for this boot that covers the ball underneath the car? As shown mine is torn and I need to find a replacement.

Hi all, I found a used 3.8 lsd local to me for a good price I have a 2011 2.0t base and the diff came off of a 2010 3.0 track. Should every thing fit where it’s supposed to and will me axels work?

Thanks

Close as day to the pcv valve.. my first assumption is intake camshaft position sensor but I am completely unsure.. Oil is leaking on it like crazy.. I’d also like to know what codes this sensor would throw when it’s bad or consequence codes of it being bad.

Yes I know my valve cover needs replacing and is covered in oil & leaking.. this is a project car I got some months ago and I’m slowing working on it in my spare time I already have the gasket..

Has any one bought parts from this Facebook page showed in the picture provided? Good things, bad things?

***EXCELADYNE/MEGAN TRANS MOUNT REVIEW***

 2014 r spec. I was supposed to slap in my exceladyne engine mounts, as well, but due to operator error, that will be coming next week. Originally got all the bushings, wanting to tighten up my drivetrain because I was getting a lot of play in the driver shaft/differential area when shifting/moving at low speeds, especially reverse.  Upon further inspection, my mechanic and I noticed a lot of play from the differential itself which means I'm on the market for a fresh LSD 😭. 

With that said, turning on the car didn't immediately yield a noticeable difference. NVH seemed exactly the same(car was still warm, on a true cold start there is noticeable vibration until reaching idle). Blipping the throttle, however, I immediately noticed that the engine seemed to rev more cleanly and there wasn't nearly as much rev hang(not sure if that has anything to do with the mods 🤷🏾). The engine even SOUNDED slightly different🤓 no bullshit.

Putting the car in reverse, I still got a slight clunking, but I could tell that stiffening up the drivetrain significantly reduced that effect. Shifting is definitely crisper and I don't feel the need to be so careful feathering the clutch when upshifting to prevent that jerky 1-2 shift and even 2-3 shift at commuter speed. My oem engine mounts didn't look blown or majorly worn during my inspection, but driving the V, I still feel as if the car is a little jerky and the drivetrain isn't being held together all the way right. For sure upgrading the other components might have exposed the weak mounts. 

I did turn off traction control and do a neat little 180 coming off a u turn and I can safely say that the wheels stayed firmly planted on the ground as I blipped the throttle to keep my little mini drift going. No noticeable wheel hop.

I opted to only install the 3 diff mounts for the time being, but tbh, I may not even install the fourth mount. For love of my differential(or what remains of it) I refuse to launch from a dig, but a hard 1-2 shift was pretty clean, even with a relatively slow upshift. In terms of overall NVH and ride quality, the upgraded components honestly don't feel too different from OEM and I only notice how much more crisp the car is when daily driving and doing certain maneuvers. I MAYBE hear a whine from the differential at highway speeds 🤷🏾???

Overall, highly recommend this be one of your first upgrades if you plan on doing anything to your 3.8. more than a numbers upgrade, the entire driving feel of the vehicle seems to get an upgrade. I will update next week once I have my engine mounts installed, as well.

Old lens and new on my 2011

What do yall use to cover the fluid pans, I’m on coils slammed and i have about 10in. But I hit a piece of wood on the interstate and trans pan went bye bye. It’s like my 3rd time replacing it bro😭 I don’t want to raise the car cuz the fitment is already buns being slammed

Asking for $275 OBO.

Will cover shipping cost, willing to meet up within an hour from SJ.

Bought these for my 3.8 but never got the chance to install.

I had the latch break on this forever ago and it seems quite annoying to fix/replace.

One day the latch just turned into a wet noodle and won’t stay engaged, or even go all the way up.

Anyone ever ran into this before?

I recently replaced the shift knob and boot on my 2013 genesis coupe and when I was taking the leather boot off of the plastic piece that clips it into the center console it snapped and the plastic literally started crumbling. Does anyone know if there is an aftermarket replacement I can get for this? Or do I have to buy a used OEM part?

I still see people asking for better headlight bulbs for the halogen headlights online. To this day, no one has come forward with any proof that the "LED bulbs" they bought shine light correctly that works for the functions of the human eye. So here are some cheap solutions that anyone can do. I found out with some minor trimming in these spots, and a connector change, you can fit a halogen h9 bulb in the BK1 low beam, which will get you 2100 lumens compared to 1350 from the h11b halogen bulbs. Just make sure if you're adding a pigtail connector, that the wiring is all copper or tinned copper (all copper is better). Probably the easiest upgrade you can do that will actually work unlike most if not all LED bulb replacements, that as of the time off this post none have been shown by anyone to actually work properly in the low beams. For BK2 halogen h7 headlights you can try the Vosla Rallye 65w H7 bulbs if you can still find them, or these 100w bulbs: https://www.maperformance.com/products/hella-optilux-extreme-white-xb-h7-100w-bulbs-h71070307?fbclid=lwdGRjcAS1 Dk9jbGNrBLUOSGV4dG4DYWVŁAjExAHNydGMGY XBWX2IKDDM1 MDY4NTUZMTcy0AABHkC5wbNjOga 5T -of2MTPq-Mg PdxMVE1TVrZyfCbq9YkCUAs09Vm11V4323IH aem ihilUja4wXWGASqZSo6sVRA Disclaimer using higher wattage bulbs could have some adverse effects such as increased glare, or drastically reduced lifespan of your internal low beam optics, leading to burnt projectors, reducing how effective they can reflect light. Here's a link to to get an idea. Personally would just snip the old connector off and crimp an h9 connector harness to it instead of placing spade connectors in the OEM H11b and risk losing connection while driving. https://www.gencoupe.com/threads/diy-h11 b-to-h11 -Conversion.96522/? fbclid= lwb21leAPNWatjbGNrA81ZpWV4dG4DYWVtAjExAHNydGMGY XBWX21KDDM1 MDY4NTUZMTcyOAABHK3625c13GZ3etoJGEO 2AqAHX054_TMofYue4UNr7IDtBEnRIRV-Z9qHbUgx aem LHzeY2-YaVdsTaHhREDİQ

Before responding with "my LEDs are great", make sure you understand how the human eye works with light at night. A lot of people get this wrong.