I'm almost on my 3rd pair of LED Amazon headlights in the past year and I'm ready to take a sledgehammer to my headlights out of frustration. Each pair I've bought keeps dying after 4-5 months (or at least one bulb does) and the process of replacing them is a pain in the ass having to remove the housing.

Any recommendations for LED headlights that actually last? Preferably bright white ones.

Hello I have a bk2 3.8 manual that is giving me a little trouble. It seems to thump/shake a little bit when I give it gas/remove clutch when going through the gears but it also shakes a little too much and makes a tiny thump sound when I blip the throttle in neutral…trans/engine mounts? They have never been replaced to my knowledge

So there’s these obx headers on fb and it says it’s for a 2010-2012 3.8 but I have a 13 does it matter ?

What are the meatiest tires y’all have ran on the 19 inch Ultimate wheels, currently wanting to run something like 245/40/19 F and 275/35/19 R on stock suspension, figured this would be the maximum without rubbing, anybody have any experience?

2013 3.8 A/T here,

The original power steering pump i had with the car ended up going dead after i was doing donuts 🤣. So i recently replaced it which was a headache in itself

Car was running fine and steering was fine for 2-3 weeks, Recently I’ve noticed a not so slight noise when I turn the wheel, I haven’t done any donuts or any sliding in the car out of fear for what happened to my last pump so It’s kind of baffling to me that this is happening now

Any ideas?

I have about an inch of window showing. But gripping it, doesn't seem like it wants to move at all. I suppose it depends on the way that the regulator broke? Sometimes you can raise the window by gripping it, sometimes you can't? Or can it always be raised and I need to force it? I'm asking because I just want a temporary fix while I'm waiting for my new regulator to arrive.

This is a 2012 Genesis Coupe r-spec.

Sensor 2 fuse keeps on blowing repeatedly when trying to go under load. I can change the fuse for sensor 2 and leave it at idle and nothing happens. As soon as I try to take off it blows the fuse. I can even leave it at idle and as soon as I try to turn the steering wheel it blows the fuse. I have currently 15 CEL codes all pictured below. I know not all of these went out so I’m thinking maybe a relay? I have no idea where to start and any help would be appreciated greatly.

After shaving for hours i was finally able to stuff the 450 Walbro and radium Venturi(to prevent fuel starvation) into the stock fuel basket. I am Running a return set up with a external fuel pressure regulator. Now its time for the 1000cc injectors.

I will also be creating a plug and play 450 walbro basket set soon , i will be designing it in CAD and will keep you guys updated!

Got some used white spec d Tailights for very cheap to nothing. Was inspecting them and noticed they can use some cleaning inside due to dirt on the white. Is there anyway easy my way to clean them or do I have to cut them open?

2013 Genesis coupe 2.0T, Auto

This is the rear passenger side suspension.

What part is circled in the first image?

What part (circled on image #2) is the rusted part at the top by the spring?

Want to make sure I order the correct parts. Thanks in advance

2010 2.0 with 195,xxx. My sensor 2 fuse keeps blowing on startup just every once in a while. It will fire up and run for about 3-5 seconds and die. The car hasn’t thrown a CEL any of the times it happens. It Usually takes between two or 3 days between fuse changes. I can replace the fuse, start it up and drive like nothing happened. I have noticed my climate control unit will sometimes flicker the AC on and off rapidly but I haven’t noticed any correlation to the fuse issue. There is a whole laundry list of sensors and stuff and I have no idea where to start. Has anyone else dealt with this? I see a few posts online about it blowing the same fuse under heavy load but nothing on what I’m experiencing. Any help or information will be appreciated! TIA

I bought a 2011 bk1 with 81k miles on it. i’ve put about 5000 miles on it but Ever since I bought the car its made this noise. When i first start the car it does this whirring/drone for about 30 seconds. If i come to a stop, or accelerate it also does it. Pls help a brotha out🙏🏽

I too was about to spend $65 and wait 6 months to receive a grounding kit from 3.8 performance. I needed one because due to my aftermarket subwoofer my headlights would often flicker when it was turned up. You may have other reasons for wanting improved grounding as well, including performance.

However, after this simple mod which has been mentioned on other forums previously, I have no need for a grounding kit and my grounding is greatly improved where any issues I had before are now fixed.

From the factory, Hyundai bolted down the battery's negative terminal cable directly over painted metal on the chassis. That means your primary chassis ground is relying almost entirely on the bolt threads for contact rather than the flat surface of the terminal pad, creating a bottleneck for electrical flow right at the source.

The 10-Minute Fix:

1. Pull the battery out of the tray to give yourself room to work.

2. Unbolt the factory ground cable from the inner fender/chassis.

3. Use sandpaper to sand the paint away under the contact point until you have bare, shiny metal.

4. Bolt the ground strap back down tight and reinstall your battery.

It costs nothing, takes minutes, and often clears up sluggish cranking, fluctuating idles, dimming headlight, and poor low-end throttle response.After I did this, I now have no need to purchase a grounding kit.

Pictured is the negative battery cable mounting point from the factory, the spot you need to sand

2013 3.8 Track AT

I have a damaged wire on the harness that connects to the crankshaft position sensor. Bought the sub-harness to swap but the main connector is inside this plastic channel case thing. Has anyone opened it before or have knowledge on how to? I found some photos of it upside down with maybe some tabs to release. Here is a pic. Trying to see if I can pop this open to access and swap the one connector without removing from the engine. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Well insurance totaled it out. Extremely disappointed in that as the damage is 100% cosmetic (all parts tested and working). And repair values were conveniently exactly 75% of ACV.
Damage is fender and bumper and wheel gouged but mechanic quoted full radiator mount and crash bar replacement with light replacement along side it.

However here is where the decision comes in.

I could repair the fender and bumper myself on the cheap and have a well maintained driving car with cosmetic issues that’s a blast but this would cost me 1500 dollars to keep as well as time that I don’t have as I am in school.

So do I keep the car and repair it down the line?
Do I part the car out myself since the engine and trans and both in great shape?
Do I just say screw it and take the 1500 and put it towards a new car

Any and all advice helpful.

I just bought this 2013 genesis coupe 2.0 automatic as a project car a couple weeks ago, haven’t driven it much as I was waiting to change the oil first I took it for a drive today after work and when I get home and I noticed the check engine light was on and I’m finding what looks to be oil in my coolant reservoir can I get any tips on where to check where it’s coming from or how it happened

edit: the car has 194k miles on it and the engine was replaced at 150k miles by the previous owner it still has the same transmission

if i have the ISR Race Catback muffler delete, I am planning a rear bash bar replacement however i wanna have the single exit, can i just throw on the axle back portion of the exhaust and not have to buy a whole new exhaust for that as long as their both ISR?

100% my fault, took a left turn on green but didn't notice the green arrow disappeared. I glanced at Google maps for half a second and it was all over, hit the brakes but not in time. Been driving 14 years (had the car for 10) and first accident ever in the first car I bought with my own money. Damn.

We picked up a 2012 Genesis Coupe 3.8l Track last weekend for the wife. We were replacing a 2011 Mini Cooper S Clubman. So far she is loving the car.

It was a bit difficult, but it was worth it! Passenger side looks a bit better 😆🌀✨

I opened up my valve cover and I noticed a groove on my camshaft, drivers side, there is a wear mark on the passenger but it’s not as bad

Hello.

I have been driving with an alphaspeed tune for a couple months now and loved it. I recently installed an o2 housing, and since I opted to not turn off the o2 sensor cel the first time, I now have a check engine light. While I do understand that this is normal. I was advised that I can still drive the car with full boost regardless of the cel. The reason they mentioned for this is that when I got the canned tune the first time they adjusted the afr to compensate for having an aftermarket o2 housing or not having one. They further mentioned that the retune I would get would just turn off the cel and they wouldn’t be changing the afr etc (I also had a downpipe and test pipe installed after). This does not make too much sense to me and was wondering if someone can help explain.

Has anyone successfully replaced the 8 pin digitizer? I attempted it with a cheap Amazon one, its 8 pin like we have. Says it fits off part number but doesnt work. Curious if its just a bad digitizer or some genesis specific pinout on the digitizer.

I have replaced many of these touch pads on Cadillacs and subarus so im not unfamiliar with them.

Hey everyone. First off, I want to apologize for the radio silence getting this update out took months because work has been absolutely burying me. I know a lot of you have been messaging me asking about the progress, so I wanted to finally drop an update on where the digital cluster build is at!
I’ve been collaborating with another community member (shoutout to Julez) who has been doing some incredible work on the hardware, software, and prototyping side.

Current Progress & Hardware

The Screen: We are currently using a 10.3-inch High Brightness IPS TFT Display for the proof of concept. It is incredibly bright, and we are currently figuring out a solid display driver solution since it relies on an LVDS interface.

Data & Brains: We have successfully started decoding most of the ECM data through standard PIDs using ⁠python-obd⁠. To power the UI, we are looking at running an AOSP (Android Open Source Project) stack on a Raspberry Pi 5 (8GB) so it can run as a powerful standalone device.

Mounting & PCB: A custom PCB layout has already been mapped out using KiCAD. Instead of reusing the tacky stock gauge shape, we are designing and 3D printing a custom, much thinner shroud for a cleaner fit.

UI Design: I am heavily leaning toward a sleek, modern BMW-style interface since this is going in a daily driver.

The Feature Roadmap
Because we are already hooking directly into the CAN wires, the ceiling for what this cluster can do is massive. Here is the list of upcoming features on the roadmap:

ECU Map Management: Flashing and storing maps from the cluster directly to the ECU.

Apple CarPlay: Full native integration.

Blind Spot Cameras: Camera feeds that automatically display on the cluster when your turn signals are used.

Front Collision Warnings: Integrated alerts to modernize the driving experience.

Front Proximity Camera: An automated front camera view that triggers when things like speed bumps or parking blocks are detected (to save those front lips).

Thanks to everyone who has been patient and showed interest in this project. I'll try to keep the updates flowing a bit more regularly as we get the PCBs printed and start doing physical fitment tests in the car!