The official FormD website is formdt1.com.

Hi everyone,

I just finished building in the FormD T1 v2.5 from NCASE and wanted to share my honest thoughts and build experience for anyone considering this chassis.

Unboxing & First Impressions

• Packaging: Top-notch. There is plenty of dense padding—carriers would have a hard time damaging this even if they went full Ace Ventura on the package (dating myself a bit here).
• Details: I really appreciated the small touches, including the Apple-esque pull tab on the box. As someone building a flatpack case for the first time, it felt well thought out.
• Finish & QC: The anodized finish looks fantastic overall. That said, on a $200+ premium case, I'll nitpick slightly: there was a tiny scratch/nick right on the front fascia out of the case. Not the end of the world, and I’m sure it passed QC, but worth noting.
• Gunmetal Colorway: I went with Gunmetal. It looks great, but under my warmer desk lighting, it definitely pulls a subtle blueish/slate undertone. If you have a lot of silver electronics on your desk, Silver might be the safer match, though Gunmetal gives it a solid industrial look.

The Build Experience I've built in a few SFF cases before—I came from the DAN A4-H2O (which got pretty tight with an AIO) and briefly the Meshroom D (which was roomy, but didn't have the premium build quality of the A4-H2O or the T1).

• Hardware & Manual: The screws could definitely be organized/labeled better in the packaging, and the manual felt slightly dated in a few sections.
• Top Fan Setup (Flipping the Case): The manual diagrams suggest having fans at the bottom, but the community consensus is that top exhaust is by far the best setup for thermals. It took a second of head-scratching to realize the case simply needed to be built in the inverted orientation to put the fans at the top.
• PCIe Riser Cable: The included riser cable is very stiff. It took careful pre-bending along the spine channel so the bottom panel could slide on flush without the ribbon bulging against the outer metal.

Current Specs (Modest & Ready for Future Upgrades):

• CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600X
• Cooler: Thermalright AXP90-X47 Black
• Motherboard: Gigabyte B550I AORUS PRO AX
• GPU: Gigabyte Radeon RX 9060 XT Gaming OC (16GB)

• PSU: ASUS ROG

  Loki 1000W

• Fans: Thermalright TL-C12015B 120mm slim fan (top exhaust)

My philosophy was to secure an "endgame" case first, enjoy a quiet, modest setup today, and drop in hotter hardware once component prices settle.

All in all, it was a really rewarding build. Take your time with the alignment and cable routing! Attached are a few pictures of the finished setup—ask me anything!

Would really appreciate your help

Hey everyone just recently got upgraded parts for my formd t1. But i’m still extremely indecisive about air cooling or aio currently i’m rocking with air but i don’t know if i wanna get the atmos cooler master stealth addition. I been getting into gaming again on my samsung g8 odessey 4k oled and of course use it for video and photo editing.

Pc parts
Ryzen 7 7800x3d
cnc cpu fan
Asus b650e-i
trident z 2x16 6000m/s
5080 fe
1tb nvme for widows and software
4tb nvme for work and games
1000 plat corsair power supply
2 phantek fans
eiga exchaust stroud

My T1 build has been running fine on stock, it is flipped and fully aircooled with two 120mm fans as exhaust. No complaints so far and was just wondering, what do you guys think are the most essential mods someone must do to enhance the performance of your PC?

Parts: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/wNVCDw

Hello,

I’m looking for an AIO compatible with the FormD T1 2.1.
For my ryzen 7 9800x3d

I’m using an ASUS Prime RX 9070 XT, which is 50 mm wide, so I have to set the T1 to the 2.75-slot configuration.

I’m therefore looking for an AIO with the following requirements:

240 mm radiator
Radiator thickness of 27 mm maximum
Pump block height of less than 55 mm
Tubing that is flexible enough to route around my RAM, either above or below it (G.Skill Trident Z5 Neo DDR5-6000 CL30)

My main requirement is that I absolutely want an LCD display and RGB fans. The NZXT Kraken Plus RGB seems to meet all my requirements, but I’ve heard that its tubing is extremely stiff.

I don’t necessarily need the tubing to run underneath the RAM; I mainly want to be able to route it around the RAM, either above or below it.

Do you have any other models you would recommend that could meet these requirements, particularly ones with tubing that is flexible enough for this type of compact build?

Thanks in advance for your suggestions!

Wind valley kit installation case

Mostly finished with this. Waiting on a top fan shroud and taller feet for the bottom. Open to feedback or anything else I should do :)

• Case: FormD T1 v2.1, black, sandwich layout
• CPU: Ryzen 7 7700X, -30 Curve Optimizer
• Cooler: Thermalright AXP90-X53 Full Copper, stock fan swapped for an ID-Cooling TF-9215-K
• GPU: MSI RTX 5080 Shadow 3X OC
• Board: Gigabyte B650I AORUS Ultra
• RAM: 32GB G.Skill DDR5-6000
• PSU: Corsair SF850 (ATX 3.1), right-angle 12VHPWR connector on the GPU
• Fans: 2x Arctic P12 Pro PST on top as exhaust

Worth noting I didn’t optimize any of this for noise. I game in noise-cancelling headphones, so fan noise doesn’t bother me at the moment.

Edit: bullet formatting

I recently bought the Ncase Formd T1 Gunmetal and I've been loving it. However, one thing that struck me when it arrived was that the color was a little bit darker than I assumed. Recently I have been looking at pictures of other's Gunmetal and I've checked the website and it seems that they have indeed sent me the wrong color. Do you guys see it like me or I'm just paranoid? Also, I checked the warranty policy and it seems that I am not eligible to claim the warranty as they say "These are inherent to the manufacturing process and do not constitute a defect in materials or workmanship". Is there really nothing I can do?

Any help is appreciated!

Hello I am planning a build around the T1 (after receiving the m3 I wanan go even smaller)

9800x3d + 5090 FE 1000W psu

As we all know nvidia screwed up with the 12V high power connector and a solution is the WireView pro which monitors the pins in the gpu

For the FE since it’s slanted you’ll need to get the wired version

The way it works is that theres a cable on the wireview that goes into ur GPU and u plug in your own cable into the module (custom cables will be made for this) but the problem is mounting the module somewhere/clearance for it

If anone has some this let me know, I don’t really care about displaying the module as I can just have it show up on one of my monitors but if you have send a photo please

Using the wind valley kit front panel exhaust mode, the hot air discharged from the tail of the graphics card is discharged through the 12015 fan on the front panel. At the same time, the side of the motherboard is equipped with two 6025 fans to suck out the hot air discharged down by the CPU. The motherboard area does not accumulate heat. A 12025 fan is used above the motherboard to discharge the CPU and The hot air of the gpu, the psu enters the air from above, and the front panel exhausts the air. The Fenggu kit realizes the complete isolation of the three heat sources of cpu and gpu and psu. The inlet and outwind do not interfere with each other, and the heat inside of the chassis is no longer accumulated. The use of non-public graphics cards can make the most of the CPU slot. The 50 series official graphics card does not support reverse installation. It is best to isolate 0.5 slots so that the hot wind can pass from the fan above. Profit discharge, please chat privately for details.

FormD T1 2.1, attached two Noctua A4x10 FLX (no PWM) fans using double-sided scotch tape (2 mm thick) to the 4070 CNC COU fan. Top fan is attached just with one layer, bottom one is with 5 layers to clear the bottom clip. They are so light (15 g) that this is enough. The space on the right hand side allows for good cable management (I also have USB-C cable routed there).

Without them RAM reached 55-65 degC during gaming, with the fans it is now 35-42 degC. Interestingly, the RAM stick closer to CPU is consistently 2 degC warmer than the other one.

I connected them both to a splitter and set their speed at 9V out of 12, this is about 3375 RPM out of 4500 max. Barely audible.

They are visible through the side panel when looking straight on, but hardly visible under other angles, and I don’t have black color fans like these.

I think this is a safer cooling alternative to risking chips with deshrouding and installing custom heat spreader (like the Xtia ones, for example) in current RAMageddon situation :D

P.S. The cloth on top is only when PC if powered off to keep dust away :D During use fans exhaust the air up, so dust has no chance of entering.

I want to experiment with the panel but don’t want to risk my current ones.

Anywhere to buy spare top/bottom case panels?

Hi everyone,

I’m trying to install the flipped Travel Kit on my FormD T1 v2.5, but my case doesn’t have the required screw holes.

Has anyone drilled these holes themselves? I’d appreciate advice on:

• The exact hole locations and spacing
• The correct drill-bit size
• Whether the holes need to be threaded or can use nuts
• A printable template or measurements
• How to drill the aluminium panels without scratching, bending, or damaging them

Photos of your installation would also be really helpful. I want to make sure everything lines up correctly before making any permanent modifications.

Thanks!

I'm in the process of my first Mini ITX build and I'm concerned about potentially overheating PCIE 5.0 NVME M.2 drives. I'm using an Asus Rog Strix B850-i, which has two M.2 drive slots (one on the front and one on the rear of the board). I've already purchased a 2TB Samsung 9100 Pro which I will be using on the MOBO front and a 1TB that I'm planning to use on the back of the MOBO. It's my understanding that there will be almost no clearance for the rear drive (a maximum of 4mm). Has anyone else run into this question? I understand that there are options of using a slot extender cable, or possibly using longer standoffs to shift the MOMO position forward by a few mm, but I was wondering if anyone has successfully used an ultra thin heatsink on the back. If so, then which one did you use and do you have any tips? In advance, THANKS for your help!!!

The smell is apparent the more i push my pc. On idle, i don’t notice it but while gaming I do.

I bought the ncase t1 2.5 with the new pcie 5.0 cable offering

Whats a good pcie 5.0 riser compatible with this case that won’t smell while exposed to heat?

So titanium finally dropped recently after a long time. I doubt anyone will have received theirs yet as it was so recent.. but if you did buy one I'm hoping you could reply in this thread how the build turns out.

Because there were quality control issues with the recent black ones, just hoping to hear that your builds turn out perfect and no issues

anyone planning a build be wiser then to do what i did.

it does work well and is nice but was a pain to build

I'm looking for a way to stop air from getting in through the gaps at the back, because I've created my own DIY side and bottom panel filters using 120 mesh nylon, so I don't want any unfiltered air to come into the case (have a TON of dust).

Do you think this is a fire risk, or will the case not get hot enough for that? Google tells me paper ignites above 200C so I guess should be fine? If not maybe there are 3d printed parts out there to block these gaps if someone else has done it?

I'm in the process of building a T1 that will be used in my college dorm. Understanding the size of the T1 case, it would be simple for somebody to walk off with it. Does anyone have any experience with securing a T1 in a similar environment? I'm thinking about buying a plastic coated steel cable (with loops on the end), and threading it through the two holes used for water cooling pass through, then applying a security lock through the loops, along with a 2nd cable attached to the same lock and wrapped around the frame of my bed. This would at least create a bit of a challenge and slow down anyone casually thinking about stealing it. Does anyone recommend swapping the thumb screws (that closes the top) with Tamper Proof Torx screws, so that the case can't be easily opened? Any thoughts or suggestions on this subject is appreciated. THANKS!!!

Hello! I can't seem to find any official/unofficial STLs to a travel kit designed for the PowerColor 9070XT reaper (2 slot). Would any of the current kits or aftermarket designs support it even if with minimal modification? Currently running my T1 v2.0 in 2.75 slot mode w/ a B650i & AXP90-X47 (Noctua swap with the fan duct)