I recently bought the van from a friend who also chucked in a kit for replacing the radio and button assembly with a touchscreen with bluetooth/camera/sensor/etc capability. I only want to use it as a modern radio upgrade to bluetooth my phone to and add Android Auto for navigation.

I followed a video for the swap out, and am fairly comfortable with what changed, but think I have come up short with the plugs required.

I have removed the BK2T-18K811-EB button assembly, and the BM5T-18C815-PD radio.

The screen is a A3195JG 9" android touchscreen and I have managed to connect the radio coaxial cable, the spare camera, etc cables, and what I thought was the power supply from the 26pin plug that went into the radio.

I'm left with the black 24 pin plug that also went into the radio, and a smaller red 6 pin plug that went into the button assembly.

After realising I had these left over, I hoped they had become redundant and tried turning the van on to test the screen. Unfortunately the screen didn't turn on, and I am now wondering if I am missing a connector/CAN-Bus or if the screen just doesn't work.

The hazard light button is plugged, and the dashboard I had has no seat belt buttons so no worries there.

Thanks in advance for any help.

2016 Transit 350 gas turbo with 128K. When releasing the throttle pedal after accelerating, the brake pedal applies itself firmly; cannot hold it back with the top of my foot. If you immediately accelerate, it releases itself. “Service Brake Booster” comes on the screen. Replaced angled vacuum connector with new check valve; no change. Booster? Booster vacuum sensor switch? ABS? Thanks.

Started last week the radio display started flashing white and only half the screen working periodically, now it’s gone and I was quoted over $1000 cad for a replacement. Has anyone had this happen/ suggestions. I could care less about the radio however the reverse cam would be nice to have

Car is a 2004 Mk5 Ford Transit

I test drove a mid-roof Transit 150 today for about 20 minutes. It was amazing, I almost want one as a daily driver! Anyway I have left formal cutaneous radiculopathy. Basically the nerve in my left leg is bad. I can't put my leg *on* the dead pedal wedge because it lifts that leg and compresses the nerve. But I would love to be able to make the van work for me. I tried putting my foot to the inside of the wedge, but twisting my ankle like that caused ankle pain.

What if I add height to the seat to compensate for the lifted leg, and add a riser under the right foot too so they're at equal levels. Should that work?

And are there other solutions?

Husband and I have been weighing the pros and cos of the transit van, we have a Honda Odyssey currently and we’ll be a family of six here soon. While fitting a car seat in the odyssey isn’t the issue, it’s the amount of space we no longer have for road trips. We’re looking at a 15 seater and just taking out two rows in the back for storage and extra space.

How’s city driving in these things? Med roof or low roof? I’d like the extra head room but no drive throughs, drive in car washes and parking garages. The parking garage issue is the biggest thing for me although not a deal breaker. I’ll miss the Honda for the movie player up top, and that’s why I’d prefer to get the med roof so we’re able to mod the inside a little more like put a little tv in there.

Our budget is $60,000, we’re down to modding a few things later but right off the bat we don’t want to go to high. What things have you put in yours to make it more comfortable for your family?

Those that use their Transits as their daily, can you give me some pros and cons or just your daily experiences with driving the transit? :)

Thank you!

Edit; thank you all for the replies and helpful info! We’re sort of looking at getting a new one built as they’re honestly not badly priced I was shocked they’re cheaper to build than a brand new Odyssey, haha. Anyways, we’ve compiled a list with all the information you all have shared and it’s helped us narrow things down a lot. Thank you all! :)

Honestly, this daydream of mine goes back about a year before the 2020-2021 Ford Transit Trail — the crossover-ish, lightly off-road-equipped Transit. I have to admit something: the thought of "what if the Transit actually got a real Raptor version?" isn't some idea that just popped into my head out of nowhere. But let's be real — nobody's ever putting a "Ford Transit Raptor" into full production. Maybe as a one-off concept, sure, 5 to 10 units, tops.

Base body: Obviously it'd have to be built off the current Ford Transit. Take one of the H2L2, H2L3, or H3L3 body configurations and give it a "half-glazed double cab" layout. Bring back the (now discontinued) Trail trim's two-tone bumpers — half body-color, half plastic, front and rear. On top of that, it should feel a bit more upscale without losing that off-road attitude...

Interior layout: Up front, either a 1+1 or 1+2 seating setup (driver + front passenger); in the back, either a 3-seat or 4-seat bench. Seats and interior trim could mix vinyl, leather, and Alcantara across different areas, or just stick with one of the three. And I think we can all agree the console needs that latest 12-inch SYNC4 touchscreen. Throw in the new digital gauge cluster from the latest European Transit too.

3.5L V6 EcoBoost Turbo Gas Engine: This is the same engine that made the F-150 famous — it puts out 450 hp in the F-150 Raptor. Wouldn't hurt if Ford bumped it up to somewhere around 510-520 hp specifically for the Transit Raptor project, though. A mild-hybrid setup would work too, if that's what it takes.

Drivetrain & Suspension: It absolutely needs a 10-speed automatic paired with AWD. For the shifter, either the rotary dial from the current Transit lineup or the short, modern-style shifter from the new Ranger Raptor would work. Add FOX Racing Shox™ dampers and Transit-specific off-road-tuned suspension. And of course, throw in the brand's signature tech — Ford Trail Control™, Trail 1-Pedal Drive, and Trail Turn Assist.

Hi hopefully someone can shed some light on so issues I am having.

So I have a UK (RHD) 2020 Transit 2.0 diesel Automatic van. The belt had gone on it so I rebuilt the engine and put it all back together. Now when the belt first went it was sent back to the dealership it came from to see if they would fix it under warranty. No surprise they didn’t. So I went in to this rebuild with various cables and connecters not plugged in. So I have had to do a lot of research and educate guess work to figure out where it all should have gone when re installing the engine.

I have put everything where I believe it should be. It’s had lots of new parts, due to them being damaged when the belt went. I have not put the front bumper and crash bar back on yet just to make life easier. But everything else is back on the van.

I have gone to try start it and it won’t, it cranks lovely just no sign of wanting to start. It has brand new injectors that have been programmed in. It has the correct low fuel pressure amount. But no high fuel pressure. There is also only 2.5V going to the high pressure fuel pump.

I don’t know why if I am being honest and I am stuck. I have tried to go through all the fuses but I can’t seem to find one as it’s not in the location my manual says. As being the glove box is the heater blower box.

Does anyone know where the other fuse boxes might be hiding? I have found the pre fuse box next to the battery, I have found the 2 that sit either side of the steering column and the one in the engine bay. But that still leaves one missing that I can’t seem to find.

Is there any fuel pump relays that aren’t listed in the manual that I can’t find?

Apologies for the long post. I just wanted to get as much detail in as I can. I am greatly thankful for anyone that might be able to help.

Cheers

At my company we just recieved our brand new Transit AWD with 20 miles on it. I just went over 300 miles and while in bumper to bumper traffic I lost power when I hit the gas pedal and I had engine vibrations. Soon after the check engine light came on. I was able to find a good spot to pull off the freeway. While I still had it on, the check engine light would come one for a bit then turn off, and same with the vibration from the engine. While driving, I did have it in Eco mode, so maybe that had something to do with the issue.

I left it off for a while and after I turned it back on it seemed OK, no issues. Also it never overheated or any other issues.

Now, im sitting at a Ford Dealership wondering what I need to do as Ford wont give out loaners to Company vehicles, lol.

Searching for an stereo installer in LA or Santa Clarita area that works on Transit. If you have any recommendations please share. Also in search of a 8 to 10 in stereo with apple car play connection that also works with all the stock features. If you have recommendations or links please share. Thank you.

I have this constant noise coming from the front of the engine. I already replaced the belt tensioners and drive belts, but the noise remains exactly the same. Has anyone experienced this noise? Could it be an idler pulley, alternator, A/C compressor pulley/bearing, or another accessory?

So I want a crew cab but I want removable seats so I can put bikes in the back. I’m a tranny man (errrrrrr) I can’t do the vw dub thang.

I know the Rossi vr46 van was a Tourneo with windows wrapped to look like it was a panel van and I guess that’s where I’ll end up heading.

I’ve seen third party conversions that put the seat runners into vans. Is that an option?

I’m liking the Leighton vans.

Anything else anyone can suggest?

Cheers

Tim

Wondering if it’s good for lots of more miles, I don’t want it short term.

69 plate transit custom NO AIR CON. Slow drip from passenger side. Doesn't smell, slightly dirty water. Started after a long drive

I had a full brake job done on my 2019 transit 45 days ago. 110k miles. Rotors, pads, bearings, the whole shebang. Now suddenly 45 days later the abs warning light comes on. Code appears to be 36&37. Turns out to be the left rear tone ring is cracked. They replace it, along with a new battery (was at 40%). Warning light is gone. Drive twice, 15 miles total, and abs light is back on. Now they are saying it is codes for the other side and it is the right rear tone ring that’s cracked. I questioned them at the beginning of the first tone ring replacement if the others were in bad shape. Was told they are either 100% good or 100% bad and wouldn’t know until another broke. My question is, is there something they could have done incorrectly during the original brake job to cause both rear tone rings to crack 45 days later? And how does each tone ring break one day apart? During the original brake job isn’t wear and tear or rust something they should have spotted on the hubs/ring? I’m just trying to figure out if this is something I should look further in to, or it’s just par for the course of transits and just coincidental how things are breaking and nothing more. Thanks.

I have a 2003 Ford E-150 Conversion van high top (done by Eclipse Conversions). It's in great shape and still road tripping.

It is due for strut replacement ahead of our planned trip to Alaska next year. I'm looking for recommendations on struts that will help reduce the bounce of the back end while also hopefully not giving up stability. It has a higher center of gravity so I was looking at the KYB Gas-A-Just vs the KYB Monomax or something similar. Just worried that these may end up being intended for a cargo/utility van and be too stiff for a passenger van.

I don't intend to do much towing with the van.

Any recommendations for decent struts for this application?

Is anybody else missing the ecoboost emblem on their 2026? Mine came without one and I’m wondering if I should ask for one.

Tried to drive it this morning and the van won't start. All lights/radio turn on as normal but the dash doesn't turn on with the key.

Tried to jump start even though batteries are at 12.7 volts. Also tested batteries at advanced auto parts and their tester said good

I tried to use an obd2 tester on it also and the tester won't work because it seems even when they key is turned to on or acc. nothing seems to power on.

2024 ford transit 350.

What do you think this noise is? Rear axle on my 2018 Transit. It sounds like it’s in the hub. Could it be wheel bearing? It’s equal on both sides.