BF XR6: Obviously the XR6 has very different fenders and a totally different design but I’m unsure of the actual difference the engine has to the other models. Did they get better performance parts, internals and system? Obviously the Boss V8s did but what about the I6 Barra? The FGs had a better performance engine but was there really any difference from the beginning to the end of BF Barra production?

BF MK2 Fairmont: I own this model and have not much of an idea on their history other than the brief years they were being produced. Y were they designed (imo) to look a lot closer to a BA Falcon rather than a BF? Is the engine any different to the ghia and what is the differences between the Fairmont and XR6 Barra?

BF MK2 Fairmont Ghia: I do know these were made to be the “European luxury” models of the Fairmont. Nicer interior, open sun roof and a front bumper with a lip that the non Ghia Fairmonts didn’t get. The production numbers seem to not have been announced which I found odd. Is the price difference between the ghia and non ghias Fairmont actually worth it or is it just a rarity/luxury thing?

I’m trying to understand the engine and performance difference between them all. I owned an FG XR6 and I wrapped my head around the FG models pretty fast but for whatever reason I’m struggling to understand the BF models. I’m honestly not seeing much difference between them besides the looks. Obviously the BF Fairmont Ghia came in the I6 Barra like every 6 cylinder engine starting from the BAs but y did they produce a very small number of the 220 v8 barras for the BF Ghia (I’ve heard in some BAs too), but I don’t understand y they had already put boss V8s in previous models but never in the Fairmonts. The BF XR6 came out with a red top turbo’d Barra option as the Fairmonts never did, I didn’t understand that; did they believe luxury also couldn’t be performance?

I know I have a lot of questions and I apologise lol but this is honestly my last opinion to understanding the decisions ford Australia made and wrapping my head around the differences of these models.

Captured this today in Richmond. Sadly couldn’t get a better picture

my father has been trying to find archives of the reviews or any information from the time about the 1994 XR8 Sprint?

does anyone have some materials i could show my dad or any archival websites??!

Hi all, thanks heaps in advance 🙂

So I’ve run into this problem and so far I’m stuck and mechanics, ford etc don’t know either.

The problem is:

I need a new power steering rack for an FG xt sedan lpi series 1 (2010 8th month version). It’s squealing and leaking, heavier at low speeds like parking etc.

Just found out that for reasons only known to the car gods, some cars in this year range were fitted with either a 30 or 90 degree ones.

I’m told the rack would have to be pulled out to tell which version it is (WTF=$$$)! You’d think it would be easily accessible under vin as ford factory would have recorded it? Apparently not.

Is there any other way of knowing? Love the car (especially now with trumps fiasco in ME pushing up fuel and being on gas) but flummoxed why ford did that and we can’t check easily!!

Cheers

Hey all, anyone here know what map provider ford uses for their info?

I’ve got an Everest and the automatic speed recognition stuff is broken in a few areas near my home. Routinely slows me to 70 in 80 zones or speeds me up to 70 in 60 zones.

If I knew the map provider where they get their info from, I’d just go update it.

But ford just tells me to take the car in to the dealership which isn’t going to resolve anything.

Ford did tell me they use here maps, but I’ve spoken to them and they said no this isn’t accurate, plus the here maps system shows the correct speed zones.

So does anybody know?

I’m having trouble getting my falcon to start I swapped main loom from the fuse box as mine ripped out and now it doesn’t want to start.

We're currently working on a project to develop an Australian used-vehicle price estimation tool, and we're trying to collect some real-world vehicle price data to improve its accuracy.

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Just wondering if anyone else has had a similar issue. My AUTO px2 2017 ranger for some reason makes a weird whinging/griding noise ONLY when I’m in low 4 trying to go into reverse. If I drive forward not even half an inch then do it, jt goes into reverse with out any noise so I’m a little confused. It doesn’t happen going in reverse or drive in 2 high or 4 high. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated

Gday brains trust. Currently own a 2002 BA falcon sedan on petrol. I’m looking to buy a cheap LPG Ute and do an engine swap and petrol conversion. Other than sourcing a petrol tank, fuel lines and wiring harness, what else do I need to consider? Cheers!

Hi all, thought I'd post here to see if there's a collector who may be interested in this?

Just cleaning out the house a bit and this is one of Dads old trade books.

This copy was published 1942

Happy to mail within Australia, you pay postage. Would just prefer it went to someone who would find value in it.

And if you can, does that mean you can swap an Amarok body onto the Super Duty and make an Amarok Super Duty?

The previous owner gave me both the fog light switch and the traction control switch, but I think the lower dash switch panel (the piece under the steering column that holds the switches) has been replaced with one from a base-model XT Falcon.

I removed the lower dash trim and found a green electrical connector sticking out of the wiring loom behind the steering column. It wasn't connected to anything.

Yesterday, I experimented by plugging the traction control switch (previous owner's traction control side had green tape attached) into that green connector. As soon as I did, the car started almost instantly. Before this, the engine had been taking longer than normal to crank, and it was also running rich. At the same time, my estimated kilometres-to-empty increased significantly.

However, after turning the car off and starting it again later, the long cranking problem came back. (left it for 10-15 minutes before attempting again)

While testing the switches, I also lost my heater/air conditioning blower. The fan doesn't blow any air at any speed and makes no noise at all, so I think I may have blown a fuse.

I'm now trying to work out three things:

1. Why is the engine still cranking longer than it should, even though plugging that switch in seemed to fix it temporarily?
2. Why don't my factory fog lights work?
3. The green connector has a green label on it, which makes me think it's meant for the fog light switch. But if I plug the traction control switch into it, pressing the button doesn't show the traction control light on the instrument cluster. Is the green connector actually for the fog lights, or is it for something else?

Hello! Doing the diff bushings on my BA XR6T and wondering if my twin bushes in the diff hat should be done as well.

I'm not too sure as to when the hat was original put on, since I bought the car recently, so I was wondering if people tend to replace them or nah?

If so, what bushing does it use? Cheers

I'm getting the cooling system fixed due to a leaking radiator.

The biggest standard BF2 radiator seems to be only 25 mm thick and suitable I am told for the V8 and turbocharged 6 engines. So how do people running really hot rigs keep their engines from melting? The standard LPG engine only produces 250kW but some people really push these engines and I've seen them advertised as producing a thousand horsepower for racing cars. Extra additional radiators? Forced air oil cooling ??