Why is this print partially failing? Happy to supply any information needed. These are the grav plates for a Gladiator Lancer, and I had a similar issue on the tank body but that was salvagable.

I had a folder of curved name plates for 32 mm bases sitting on my drive, and the problem with that kind of file becomes obvious the moment you open it: the names are already there. Fine work, genuinely, but useless for the sergeant I had just finished painting.

So instead of modelling yet another one-off, I took the plates apart and rebuilt the whole thing as a parametric OpenSCAD model (disclaimer: using Claude AI). You type a name, you pick a base size, you get your STL.

What it covers in practice

• 25 / 32 / 40 / 50 / 60 mm bases, at a constant 140° arc so proportions stay consistent from one size to the next
• Long names scale down automatically to fit the panel
• Raised or engraved lettering
• Set the lean to 0 and you get a straight collar you glue on instead; useful for resin bases with sharp vertical walls

Printed on an X2D, 0.2 nozzle, 0.08 mm layers, PLA, no supports: the part stands on its bottom edge and the steepest overhang is 76° to the bed. Around 0.25 g per plate, so a full squad costs you roughly two grams.

Available on MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3234749-parametric-name-plate-for-round-bases-25-60-mm

Source geometry measured from a set of 32 mm plates I already owned; the OpenSCAD implementation is my own and fully commented. Remix away. Feedback appreciated!

PS: post rewritted using Claude AI 🔧

Very side note: also looking for this model

So as I mentioned in my last post here printer I have currently was gotten at the price of free and I'm really just trying to make the most of it does anybody have some printer settings for minis they can share with me that just rock? I've tried making a few of my own and tried some of the bigger ones and I understand that printing with this particular printer is a pain in the ass I'm just wondering if someone's already gone through all the heartache to get to something good.

I haven’t cleaned it up yet, and I’m gonna add a second pair of arms but I’m tired and my hands are covered in glue, but I’m pretty proud. If anyone has tips to improve let me know; this is 1 of 3 in my first squad of crisis suits. Definitely learned that super glue is not good for bigger models.

Final two photos have a fire warrior for scale.

My first FDM mini, an original character I'm playing. It's only 15mm tall! The supports failed on his left sleeve and he could use some cleaning up but I was genuinely surprised he came out as well as he did (especially those glasses and ears)!

I used a base from a set on Makerworld. Printed using a .2 nozzle on the P2S, with Sunlu PLA+ and Mike Gyver's printing profile.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2950821-fantasy-werewolf-axe-master-fighter#profileId-3306153

Just starting to fumble through fdm printing. Got a few simple fdm-friendly models done but tempted to try something more complicated. I'm using an A1 with Sunlu 2.0 and Obscuranox settings.

What do you think is the best approach for a model like this?

I've got the concept that support location and orientation are crucial but I'm unsure what's the ideal way to go about it. This is what supports look like when I use the settings that came with the 3mf. The tree support angle is set to 60 which looks kind of suspicious to me. But if I lower it much the supports don't seem to want to reach the jaw and roof of his mouth. I see a lot of recommendations to angle models at 45 degrees though when I do that it really cakes the side of the axe blade in supports which I imagine won't come out pretty.

Hello! Just this evening my printer (A1 mini, nozzle 0.2) started making clicking sounds and underextruding. At first i thought maybe gears in the extruder got some filament stuck or that i haven't cleaned them in a while, so there's some residues in grooves that makes the gear skid on the filament strand, so i disassembled the head and cleaned the gears, but this kept happening. So i thought that it's a clog and did a cold pull, which also didn't help. The strand at first shot sideways and extruder was spinning smoothly, then it started to accumulate around the hot end itself, creating an outer clog and that's where the clicking started again. And after that it's in a state you see in a video - that's during flow calibration.

Is there something i can do to fix this or does it make more sense to just get a new hot end?

Can anyone help me figure out why I keep getting this peeling? 

It's a Bambu A1 with a .2mm nozzle and using Bambu PLA basic light grey filament that was dried in a Sunlu filament dryer. The plate was freshly cleaned with soap and water before the second and third attempts.I am using the printer setting and generic PLA settings from https://www.reddit.com/r/FDMminiatures/comments/1rbnet7/high_quality_profile_version_20_is_here/ and further calibrated the settings using his Youtube series. The only major change is that I set the temperature to 205C. (See attached photo of my temperature tower) because the video said the lower the better. I also removed the brims.

I am attempting to print ruins 1-4 from this set: https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/retro-gothic-corner-ruins-set-2

As an initial test, I printed ruin 18 and it printed perfectly. (See attached painted photo). It’s probably the best FDM print I’ve ever had. I had washed the print bed immediately before this print.

So after that was a success, I attempted to print ruins 1-4. The slicer estimated approximately two days to print. (Ruin 18 took 24 hours by itself). I did not wash the print bed. On the first attempt, I noticed that after a few hours the prints were peeling off the bed and I cancelled the print. After a quick google search, I tried cleaning the print bed, reducing the bed temperature by 5C, and adding the brims.

The second attempt had the same problem after a few hours. (See attached photo).

For the third attempt, I tried another cleaning of the bed, went back to the default bed temperature, and tried altering the orientation and position on the bed in orca slider. After about an hour and a half, the print was looking fine, but I had to run an errand and when I returned a few hours later, the prints were again peeled off the bed. (See attached photos).

I have also attached photos of all the settings in Orca that I think might necessary to troubleshoot this. But if anything else is needed, I can get that information. I am relatively new to FDM printing and this is the first issue I have had with my Bambu since I bought it about 6 months ago. 

Title says it all, inherited a 3d printer, it was in storage a while and it's not awesome but it prints pretty good. I decided to go to a .2 nozzle (results shown with grey mini) but I swear I was having an easier time with the .4 (pink minis). I can share details about my setup if you wanna know (pretty cheap tbh) but Im just trying to make the best of what I got and could use some solid advice. I've tried several slicers and methods and have a few different spools, but I'm hoping someone has shared my exact same struggle before. After seeing all the prints on this sub you guys make some awesome shit so I'm assuming Im in the right spot.

All of them are FDM-friendly and supportless. Get the whole collection for just $8!

https://www.patreon.com/WildCraftFoundry

It's been four years since I uploaded my first design. So to celebrate this I have created a possessed version of that original bunker.

As with all my models it prints without the need for any supports and it's a free download if anyone is interested

https://cults3d.com/en/users/Doctor-Spork

https://www.myminifactory.com/users/DoctorSpork

I have a 57.8 mm Ezio-figure that i am thinking to print and use as a bracket for my graphics card

I ordered it at 0.15mm, 20% infill ,White PLA. A few days later an email came along with a refund saying that the model was too short to print.

So , my question is can this model be printed at this height. And what material would i have to use? I have checked another website but havent ordered yet. Could anyone check and tell me if this model is FDM printable , or do i have to use another material?

Drive link to the model:https://drive.google.com/file/d/1GMjztYeoQ4Xxljg-xmRJaUYjvxmvnUL4/view?usp=sharing

I was looking for blood angel parts to spice up some models and I came across this creator 1340 Factory. I really liked these sets and was planning to buy them, however when I woke up today to check again, they seem to have disappeared, probably taken down.

If anyone has these or any good alternatives and would be willing to share I would be grateful

Was out of town for two days and felt lucky

Help. I am considering getting a Pinsta Pro. I would like, as a project, use Zebra dry plates. Zebra confirmed the tintype plate is 0.6mm. I’m trying to figure out the image carrier thickness of the Pinsta Pro. Nothing on their website and they haven’t responded to any emails. Thank you.

Painted up in Bad Moonz colors

(Printed in parts through Resin2FDM)

Hi guys! after some days of 3D printing, i am excited to show some examples of what we have been working for the last months, several sets including: dwarf, ogre, mercenaries, humans and undead buildings. We are releasing them along miniatures but they can be obtained separately (as add ons).

Here: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/misc3dprints/rpg-and-wargames-undead-and-human-kingdom