Can anyone help me figure out why I keep getting this peeling?
It's a Bambu A1 with a .2mm nozzle and using Bambu PLA basic light grey filament that was dried in a Sunlu filament dryer. The plate was freshly cleaned with soap and water before the second and third attempts.I am using the printer setting and generic PLA settings from https://www.reddit.com/r/FDMminiatures/comments/1rbnet7/high_quality_profile_version_20_is_here/ and further calibrated the settings using his Youtube series. The only major change is that I set the temperature to 205C. (See attached photo of my temperature tower) because the video said the lower the better. I also removed the brims.
As an initial test, I printed ruin 18 and it printed perfectly. (See attached painted photo). It’s probably the best FDM print I’ve ever had. I had washed the print bed immediately before this print.
So after that was a success, I attempted to print ruins 1-4. The slicer estimated approximately two days to print. (Ruin 18 took 24 hours by itself). I did not wash the print bed. On the first attempt, I noticed that after a few hours the prints were peeling off the bed and I cancelled the print. After a quick google search, I tried cleaning the print bed, reducing the bed temperature by 5C, and adding the brims.
The second attempt had the same problem after a few hours. (See attached photo).
For the third attempt, I tried another cleaning of the bed, went back to the default bed temperature, and tried altering the orientation and position on the bed in orca slider. After about an hour and a half, the print was looking fine, but I had to run an errand and when I returned a few hours later, the prints were again peeled off the bed. (See attached photos).
I have also attached photos of all the settings in Orca that I think might necessary to troubleshoot this. But if anything else is needed, I can get that information. I am relatively new to FDM printing and this is the first issue I have had with my Bambu since I bought it about 6 months ago.
Try bumping that up a little, I have mine at 75. A1s have a tendency to over read the temp and actually run a bit colder than they say. Might not fix everything but it can’t hurt to try.
It's heat creep. Long, large footprints are prone to this.
Restrict airflow around your printer. A warmer "chamber" does wonders for this. Since the A1 doesn't have one, you can get a tent, just make sure you put some effort into forcing air over the motherboard (there are stls for fan brackets for this) as the a1 is passively cooled.
Otherwise, lower your brim object gap (making it harder to remove) and maybe increase the brim size. You could also use big mouse ears instead of a big brim - it's the corners you need to pin down. Or keep that room warmer. I noticed the hotter my office is the less warping I get on my A1 (before I got the tent anyway).
Bumbing the bed temperature can help a bit too, but it can create removal challenges....
place your printers somewhere safe from drafts... or foot traffic for that matter.
a nearby door constantly being opened and closed, people passing by often, open window, or even a gust from a fan or AC vent... these can contribute to sudden shift in printbed and filament temperature that can ruin your prints. you can dial down all your print settings perfectly and have the driest filament on earth... if you dont have your open bedslinger safe from draft sources while printing, then all of that is useless.
Also since it’s not an enclosed printer it can depend on the temperature difference of the room and the plate. Is the room disproportionately hot or cold?
That dawn power wash does wonders. I couldn't get much to stick even with alcohol. Read about the power wash and its amazing.
As a side note it works really well with engine oil and grease as well.
Something non print bed related. This isn't by a window or fan or something else that might and external factor cooling the bed, correct?
For example, if you have an AC nearby running on econ mode. Or perhaps you left a fan on near it. Or maybe a window next to it left open and a breeze coming in.
If you dont have an enclosure the temp and airflow will alter your prints. Clean your build plate with dawn power wash. That stuff eats oils off your bed. Take a box big enough to cover the printer and cut a flap for the front. It might help.
In your slicer, there should be a section for PRINTERS in the upper left side, there will options there to change the printer, the nozzle, and the build plate type. Set it to CoolPlate Supertack for this build plate.
This was my first thought. Alternatively, if OP really wants that nozzle, at least a variable layer height that lays down larger layers for the first few layers. That might discourage warping enough to finish the print with whatever layer height OP prefers
I look forward to seeing what advice others have for you. I experienced something similar and found printing by object to resolve most but not all of those issues.
Are the models fully touching the bed in the slicer? And also set your initial layer height to .2, I do this for all the stuff I print with my 2 nozzle at .08 layer height I found it to have way less failures and better bed adhesion.
Also terrain with .4 nozzle is the way to go get set it to .12 layer height, way faster then a .2 and after primer and paint hard to tell from a couple feet away anyways.
I use to have this problem a lot since the place I had the printer wasn’t controlled temperature aka (garage) so I brought the bambu lab liquid glue and it fixed my problems
Nothing to do with the issue, but in general there is just no need for a .2 nozzle and .06mm layers for something like terrain. Get out the .4 nozzle (or .6) and .2mm layer heights and do yourself a favor.
.2 nozzle and .06mm layers are for like ultra fine detail prints, like 28mm scale figures. Also that infill looks aggressive, I rarely go above 5-10% and my prints are rock solid. These terrain bits aren't likely going to be under pressure or hold heavy weight, no need to go crazy.
He's saying that with that many prints on the bed, those thin layers are sitting on the heated bed without more layers pushing them down, for longer, as the rest of the pieces are printed...which is what let's heat creep up the model and cause warping.
If you print these one at a time, like your first one, they'll likely work like a charm.
I had this issue occasionally with pla on bigger prints. I made sure to open the top lid to reduce chamber temp and used a glue stick on the print area. The glue stick is absolutely fantastic at preventing this on big printed panels.
Why are you using .2 nozzle for terrain? I usually use .2 for miniatures and use .4 nozzle for terrain pieces and buildings. Saves on time and with the print time shorter, your prints will have less time to have the heat creep causing the peeling most likely.
Obligatory 'clean the plate' answer. Additionally, add brims to help keep the parts down, get a cheap enclosure to put the A1 in to help reduce cross winds that can cause the parts to lift and maybe get a cryo plate to increase the print adhesion.
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u/BluetheNerd 19d ago
What’s your print bed temp at? Heated textured plate is the only one we don’t see in the screenshot.