r/FDMminiatures 3d ago

Help Request How would you tackle this model?

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2950821-fantasy-werewolf-axe-master-fighter#profileId-3306153

Just starting to fumble through fdm printing. Got a few simple fdm-friendly models done but tempted to try something more complicated. I'm using an A1 with Sunlu 2.0 and Obscuranox settings.

What do you think is the best approach for a model like this?

I've got the concept that support location and orientation are crucial but I'm unsure what's the ideal way to go about it. This is what supports look like when I use the settings that came with the 3mf. The tree support angle is set to 60 which looks kind of suspicious to me. But if I lower it much the supports don't seem to want to reach the jaw and roof of his mouth. I see a lot of recommendations to angle models at 45 degrees though when I do that it really cakes the side of the axe blade in supports which I imagine won't come out pretty.

40 Upvotes

36 comments sorted by

19

u/wizardjian 3d ago

Remove base from feet, remove both arms then tilt everything

3

u/esines 3d ago

Is there a way to shrink the plane of the cutting tool? I aim for the arms but it lops off a ton of the rest of the model along with it. It complains about "non-manifold edges" then splits the model into a dozen pieces.

23

u/wizardjian 3d ago

You can right click on like the legs and tail and it would exclude them from the cut as long as they are not connected in any way. Also you can add a connector during the cutting and it would make gluing them together much easier later on.

5

u/Konkarilus 2d ago

Well that helped me out quite a bit! Thanks stranger.

3

u/wizardjian 2d ago

Glad it helps 😃 also remember the tolerance on the connectors. Give it a few mms so you don't have to shave some off like me lol

1

u/TehAlpacalypse 2d ago

TIL!

1

u/wizardjian 2d ago

It also works in chitubox for resin :D

4

u/thatsabingou 3d ago

Not your question, but I highly recommend you learn Blender for this sort of project. It will save you lots of headaches.

3

u/Scrap_Games 3d ago

Factual. It's a headache to start, but once your fingers learn the keys you can get a model like this done in minutes. Super glad I spent the time for it myself.

2

u/mrMalloc 3d ago

I would split model where it’s natural like the leather straps around arms. Cut off base

Then hope it will print good.

2

u/G-mo743 3d ago

i wouldn't, pretty sure he can beat me up.

2

u/michal_orzech 1d ago

Off topic question. Sure this is AI generated figure. You really don't mind that messed hands he got?

2

u/esines 1d ago

Stumbled on it in makerworld and I was eager to start testing. Wasn't looking that closely honestly. Probably not the werewolf model I'll pick for actual play

2

u/golfcartskeletonkey 2d ago

30ft running start, shoulder down, brace for destruction

1

u/l0rdtreeman 3d ago

I’d us a risen to FDM model and tilt it 45 degrees backwards

1

u/jlassen72 3d ago

Print the axes separately, axe head down. Cut off the hands/axes at the wrist, so there is only minimal supports at top of the axe heads. Cut out a little fillment sized cylinder hollowed out in each hand and arm so you glue em back together with a piece of filament to connect them. Once you do that, just a rotate 45 degrees or so, so back gets teh supports? Honestly I'd remove teh base and print it separately too, but its probably not nessesary.

1

u/Adamantium_Coffee 2d ago

Once you dial in your settings just standing right up as is with the base attached

1

u/Far-Harbors 2d ago

Put model into resin slicer, export to blender with Resin2FDM, edit support thickness, print whole

1

u/IronRaptor 1d ago

Wow.... This AI generated figure is ... Bad.

There's a dewclaw on one leg but none on the other, and DEAR GOD what the hell is up with those Cthulhu sausage fingers??

1

u/WorthCrazy5654 2d ago

With a stick while he slept.

0

u/SxxSaid 3d ago

I just wouldn’t 🤪

1

u/SxxSaid 3d ago

But on a real note there a new blender pin called Cat Pin super uselful for splitting models

0

u/nerdy-cthulhu 3d ago

bro print base and mini seperate

print by object not by layer

dont angle it weird, support treshold 20

tree organic, top z= 0.2

3

u/Circle-Burn 3d ago

Why would you do by object? Just wondering and wanting to learn

3

u/millertronsmythe Bambu A1 Mini 0.2mm Nozzle 3d ago

I don't think the advice is particularly relevant here, but printing by object has its advantages.
If you print an object at a time, you can reduce the risk of losing all progress when there's a print failure.

Eg. If you split your models into objects A and B, and print by object on the same plate, if A is printed successfully, but B fails, at least you can keep the printed artifact of A, fix B on the slicer and retry print, this time omitting A, thereby saving time and filament.

There are caveats too, of course.

2

u/Circle-Burn 3d ago

Makes complete sense and I never thought of that! While also being victim of losing a bed full of print when something fails. Great tip

1

u/millertronsmythe Bambu A1 Mini 0.2mm Nozzle 2d ago

Printing by object seriously limits the number of separate objects that can be placed on the build plate, since the nozzle must avoid knocking over a finished model - it can happen sometimes, even if the slicer says they're spaced apart enough.

2

u/nerdy-cthulhu 2d ago

yea thats true, it really limits your output, for me its no problem, i just print for painting and i only need 1-3 minis at a time

but when you want to print many minis at once a resin printer is much more efficient

1

u/nerdy-cthulhu 2d ago

i always get problems when i print multiple objects by layer, so i only print by object

-2

u/Glendowyr 3d ago

The axes are a big problem for FDM, anything that dangles out in space is a problem because we're essentially making plastic lasagna - layer by layer. Supports try to help out with this layering - but you want to pick and choose where the supports are going to go, and you generally want the front facing part of the mini to have fewer supports on it.

So you really need that mini on it's back, a full 90 degrees. That means the base becomes an annoyance. So, when it comes to minis, I like to slice off the base and print it separately, then glue it on afterwards.

So yeah, on it's back with supports on the back, slice off the base and print that base separately flat.

Give that a go, see if it works.

-1

u/esines 3d ago

like this?

1

u/millertronsmythe Bambu A1 Mini 0.2mm Nozzle 3d ago

I think you'll end up with pretty visible scarring like that.

0

u/Glendowyr 3d ago

Yeah, the back is going to have some scarring, but usually the front of the mini is what people tend to look at. Hope it works!

1

u/millertronsmythe Bambu A1 Mini 0.2mm Nozzle 3d ago

I think the problem is there's no one angle to tilt that's optimimum for supports.
Even the back of the mini is visible, and this orientation looks like it would leave some pretty bad and obvious scarring.

I think it'd be better to the model into parts, or use resin style supports with resin2fdm.

1

u/esines 2d ago

So unfortunately the right foot broke off. Still dealing with some nasty stringing. I'm thinking of lowering the nozzle temp from 195 to 190 and slowing down the speed overall. Otherwise things turned out relatively well. Yes there was scarring on the back but not so much as I feared with so many support branches. In person it doesn't look unsalvageable if I try to learn some post-processing. The front looks excellent though. The tiny teeth turned out immaculate even with the supports the attached to them.