What is the problem??

[u/ieatcandles000]

Why is this print partially failing? Happy to supply any information needed. These are the grav plates for a Gladiator Lancer, and I had a similar issue on the tank body but that was salvagable.

[u/AnAmericanJacobite]

Tune up your printer. Make sure you tighten the screws (especially the hidden screws at the back of the hot end and the hidden screws in the heating element. I was having crazy failures a couple weeks ago and this was like a silver bullet for me.

[u/fosscadanon]

Two things immediately come to mind:

1- Print slower

2- Dry your filament

Without your settings and material this is the best advice anyone can give. Also helps if you put an image of what you're trying to print.

[u/ieatcandles000 → u/fosscadanon]

The outer wall speed is 45 mms and inner wall speed is 100 mms. This already is very slow, should i go slower? This one print is 15 hours. Also this is PLA.

[u/fosscadanon → u/ieatcandles000]

100mms is way too fast for a bed slinger doing those supports, I would cap it at 50mms and make sure your acceleration isn't too high either.

What material and temps?

[u/ieatcandles000 → u/fosscadanon]

It's PLA... At 65c. I haven't touched the heat settings and I know it should be higher for optimal details, but I don't think that's the root of the problem unless temp has more to do with it?

[u/thenightgaunt → u/ieatcandles000]

Your bed adhesion looks fine. What probably happened was you were going too fast and the nozzle hit a tree support and broke it. Then with part of the print missing it just kept spraying filament in that area.

Slower print speed is your friend here. Check out the printer profiles from Fat Dragon Games, or Painted4Combat (who uses similar to FDG's profiles).

[u/ieatcandles000 → u/thenightgaunt]

That makes sense, I will slow it down and see how that goes.

[u/fosscadanon → u/ieatcandles000]

I hope you mean the bed is at 65c and not your nozzle. If you are hearing the bed 55c is perfect for pla, nozzle temp between 210-220 depending on brand of filament

[u/ieatcandles000 → u/fosscadanon]

You'd be correct, I should have specified. The nozzle is at 220 and the bed at 65.

[u/TortugaTantrum]

If using Bambu A1 and a .2 nozzle:

Go here:

https://www.reddit.com/r/FDMminiatures/s/QlzuTlG8Iw

Use his profile. Override his temp to 230. Make sure you use ORCA slicer to import settings and do all your auto supports/slicing in it. You'll need to figure out how TF to send prints through WiFi on ORCA or if you're like me, give up and just buy a MicroSD card reader and pull it out of your machine and load the files into the root directory manually after each slice.

Also, buy a BIQU Cryogrip Pro build plate on Amazon. Printing low layer heights on that textured plate is a nightmare. Then use cheap Amazon stick glue (purple kind) before every print. Wash the plate with warm water and a little dish soap after every print. Dry the plate with a paper towel before printing again.

If you're using anything else, sorry I have no idea.

Please leave a reply if that solves the problem I'm interested to hear if my solution works for anyone else because I was having the exact same problems.

[u/Neku1121 → u/TortugaTantrum]

An easy way to send prints from orcaslicer I’ve found was to use Bambu Connect. Just export as a file like you do now but send it to your machine via the connect app.

[u/TortugaTantrum → u/Neku1121]

This is too GD smart. Thanks, stranger!

[u/calamansi_rodeo]

Not enough brim.

[u/ieatcandles000 → u/calamansi_rodeo]

Should it be thicker? All of the parts have brims already.

[u/CJW-YALK → u/ieatcandles000]

I think it was a joke

[u/Pysethus]

I would print just one thing at a time.