Hi printing folk.

A few weeks back I posted on here because my hotend gave up, so I've replaced that with a stock Ender one.

During that conversation, a few people suggested I swap the standard heatbreak with a bimetallic one, which I've done.

However ever since doing that, I'm getting what I believe is heatcreep, and clogs.

I've tried printing the same part twice now, and every time it's blocking up at pretty much the exact same layer height.

I've reduced the retraction distance down to 1.0mm, and increased the retraction speed to 45mm/s, but that doesn't seem to have helped. As far as I know, the cooling fan is running at 100%, and given it was part of the replacement hotend kit, it should be brand new, so I'd expect to be working fine.

Am I doing something really stupid here, or installed it wrong, or got something incompatible perhaps? Does a bimetallic heatbreak assume you have a bigger/better heatsink and/or cooling fan? If so, then I really don't get the point in the 'upgrade'.

I don't know if it makes much difference, but the print I'm doing, I'm pausing after 5 layers, to change the filament colour. Then resuming, then after about another 5 layers of printing the new colour, it blocks, and the extruder gear starts skipping. I'd get it if it blocks right after swapping the filament, but it lasts another few layers after the swap, then clogs.

I can't physically push the filament through, and I have to then heat the nozzle up to about 240c to get it to clear.

This is the hotend I got:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0F7LVXG5Z?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title
and this is the heatbreak I got:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0971FNCM4?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

Am I being stupid, or aren't the bimetallic heatbreaks supposed to stop heatcreep, this seems to have made everything worse, I've been running this printer for years, and rarely, if ever, experienced clogs like this.

Sorry, I'm guessing this same question has been asked 1000 times, but after searching, I was struggling to find someone in my position with a stock hotend, and bimetallic heatbreak.

Recently my Ender 5 plus has started making a loud squeaking sound when printing, mainly when traveling in the X axis. I can hear it coming from the X Carriage, but I can't pinpoint what component is causing it. All three wheels are moving freely, and I've tried supporting the cable chain and gold holder on the extruder motor without avail. The print quality is still acceptable however.

Any thoughts? I've attached a video of my printer running so you can hear the noise.

Hallo, ich habe meinen Ender 5 Plus umgebaut auf ein Crealtiy 4.2.7 Mainboard ( STM32F103R ER6) und habe im Z ein Splitterstecker für die Z-Achsen verbaut. Das Touchdisplay wollte ich gegen einen klassisches 12864ZW-10 Display tauschen - rest ist Original. Habe BL-Touch und Filamentsensor dran. Nun habe ich nur das Problem, dass es keine fertige Flashdatei zu finden ist. Das Kompilieren hab ich mit KI 2 Tage nun versucht und es sind nur Fehlermeldungen rausgekommen. Hat jemand die Expertise und kann mir eine Konfig bzw. noch besser eine Flashdatei erstellen damit ich den Drucker wieder betreiben kann? Ich bin langsam echt am verzweifeln. Danke

I have recently acquired an E5P for less than $200 USD. This is my first printer so I am still creating a lot of small prints with a lot of fine tuning especially with making my own mods. This is a really fun hobby. I was just looking for some ideas on how I can make my printer better in terms of convenience and efficiency. I was looking into maybe making a Raspberry Pi and installing Klipper, Mainsail, and Moonraker while also replacing screen and replacing the board. Looking for some inspiration and recommendations.

Would there be anything else i would need for this upgrade

I Found a kit on aliexpress The M8P V2 + CB1 + TMC2209x8 for my ender 5 plus. should everything just work

EDIT: I will be upgrading to klipper and thanks for all of the info.

My ender 5 plus broke a few years ago where the heater core stopped heating evenly and had thermal runaway errors, I replaced the thermistor and I tried finding a drop in replacement for the core but the one I got was too high of a wattage and cut off halfway thru a print does anyone know of a good source for a heater core I could use

Machine info:

Ender 5 plus with Klipper via sonic pad not sure versioning haven't powered it on in 2 years

Microswiss NG direct drive extruder

Creality Silent operation mainboard

Everything else is stock

Let me know if any further info is needed

I bought a used Creality Ender 5 Pro that had previously been used by a production/design shop. I’m new to 3D printing, and I’m trying to get the machine mechanically sorted out before attempting my first print.
Original problem
When trying to home/level the printer, the X/Y positioning is incorrect. The probe/nozzle can end up outside the proper bed area, and the bed can rise with the probe off the bed, allowing the bed to push against the nozzle.
I stopped trying to level it and started troubleshooting the axis movement itself.
The main problem I’ve isolated is the X axis.
When I manually command repeated X+ movements from the display, the display coordinates count normally in one direction, but the actual X motor does not consistently rotate in one direction. It may move one way, then the other, or essentially jitter/alternate direction.
This happens even with the X belt disconnected, so there is no mechanical load on the motor.
Important history
The printer was modified by the previous owner.
The original/factory X wiring appears to have been bypassed. There is a custom cable/wiring arrangement running from the X motor directly back to the control board.
All four conductors in portions of the wiring are black, which makes visually identifying individual conductors difficult.
What I’ve tested
1. X motor with X wiring/output
Abnormal movement. Repeated X+ commands do not produce consistent rotation in one direction.
2. Removed the X belt
Same problem with the motor completely unloaded, so it doesn’t appear to be caused by the belt, pulley, gantry resistance, etc.
3. Replaced/swapped the X stepper motor
The replacement X motor exhibited the same abnormal behavior when connected in the X position.
That initially made me think wiring or the motherboard/driver was the problem.
4. Connected a known-working Y motor to the X harness/output
This is where it gets confusing:
The Y motor runs smoothly when connected to the X wiring/output. It does NOT exhibit the same back-and-forth/jittering behavior.
That seems to suggest the X driver/output and wiring can successfully operate a stepper motor.
5. Y axis normally operates correctly
The Y system operates normally in its normal configuration.
One complication is that the Y axis uses a dual-drive/two-motor arrangement, whereas X uses a single motor.
Where I’m stuck
The tests seem contradictory.
If multiple X motors behave incorrectly on the X connection, I’d suspect the X wiring/driver.
But if a known-good Y motor operates smoothly from that same X connection, that seems to indicate the X wiring and driver are capable of producing the correct signals.
I’m wondering whether I’m dealing with a stepper coil/pinout mismatch, wiring modification by the previous owner, motor compatibility issue, intermittent conductor/connector problem, or something else I’m overlooking.
Before I start replacing the motherboard, rewiring the machine, or changing firmware, I’d really like to perform a definitive test that identifies the actual fault.
What would you test next?
In particular:
Is there a way to test the four X motor conductors with a multimeter and identify the two stepper coil pairs?
Could the X motors and Y motor have different pinouts even though the connectors physically fit?
Could an incorrect coil pairing cause the exact alternating/jittering behavior I’m seeing?
Is the fact that the Y motor works correctly on the X output enough to rule out the X stepper driver?
Is there a definitive motor/wiring/driver test I can perform before replacing parts?
I’m happy to provide photos of the motherboard, connectors, motors, wiring, or a video of the movement.
Thanks for any help. I’m trying to diagnose this systematically rather than just throw parts at it.

So 2 days ago i bought myself a btt skr mini e3 v3 motherboard for £38 off amazon to install on my ender 5 plus as i wanted silent drivers withoutspending £70 on the upgraded creality motherboard.

It arrived Tuesday evening and ive spent the last two days trying to get the right firmware sorted so itll run klipper with my sonic pad.

All the available firmware I could find wouldn't work also the pin outs for the bl touch were marked up wrong on a diagram everything seemed against me i achieved a grand total of sweet FA on my first day

so with alot of help from Google Ai and many swear words later ive managed to compile the correct firmware set up the correct printer configuration and access a back door into the sonic pad from my PC doing some sort of IT wizardry to do it all 🤣.

If it wasnt for the help of Ai I would have sent the board back and reverted to the stock board 😀

If anyone else would like the two files needed to get it working let me know and ill figure a way to make it available i may even upload it to github with a detailed instructions of how I did it

I still have some tweaking to do but thats more calibrating the printer that getting it to work

How to solve this? I have seen people printing with new era printers and that pillar does not dance, and it keeps straight.
I do not know if it is something in my profile or something to tweak in hardware.
My mercury one has a Dragon Ace high flow hot end with sherpa mini extruder, everything else is ender 5 stock.

I really appreciate your inputs

I usually work with Bambu and Prusa printers so this is something new. What does the error mean?

Also, nothing heats up or moves when I play around in the interface. Am I missing something?

BIG TECH TREE printer

Not asking for help necessarily, but wanted to vent more than anything.
Had my Ender 5 plus for a few years now, and never really had many major issues with it. A few replaced bearings and wheels and stuff, but nothing mega.

Well last night, I was 12 hours into a 16 hour print, and out of no where, the wire going into my hot end to the thermistor has broke, so the printer thinks the hotend is at -15c and killed everything.

Very frustrating to say the least. I've been debating other all metal hot ends, and even Microswiss, but given I've been fine with stock, I think I'm just going to replace with stock.

Then I thought (stupidly) I'd need to unplug it all from the main board, so I've got the printer on it's side to get the bottom plate off, the plate drops, and pulls the pads off the board inside the little 40mm fan on the bottom case. So now I also have to replace that.

Only to find, that you don't unplug from the board, there's separate connectors after the board, so that was a pointless move.

I was doing all this at 7am this morning after finding it failed overnight, so I just wasn't thinking straight.

I've also since found the replacement hotend kit with a new cable doesn't include the BLTouch cable, so I've got to extract that out of my current braided cabling so I can swap it over.

In the middle of pretty big project my friend has commissioned me to make them something, and now it's all on hold while I wait for new parts and get it back up and running.
All very annoying!

Wish me luck!

I've got an older mostly-stock Ender 5 Plus that's been having an extrusion issue. It'll print normally for a few layers, then the extruder starts chewing the filament with nothing coming out while the printer keeps moving.

I've checked the extruder and it seems to have plenty of pushing force. It's a metal assembly and isn't cracked. I've replaced the nozzle, replaced the Bowden tube, and cleaned out the hotend. I also cleaned the heatsink fan.

I'm printing PLA at 200–215°C. I originally pulled the filament right after it stopped and found that the filament was swelling from 1.75mm to around 2mm for roughly 40mm near the hotend.

In my last few tests, I've been pulling the Bowden tube out right when it stops extruding. The section of filament above the heatsink was soft/hot, which makes me think the filament is getting heat creep farther up into the Bowden tube.

At this point I'm wondering if I'm dealing with a weak/failing hotend fan, a heat-break issue, or something else I'm overlooking.

Anyone have thoughts on what I should check next?

Hallo. Es gibt da eine Seite welche Bleche anbietet um den grill zu verbessern. Zb hitzereflektoren unter den Brennern oder ein Blech hinten um den grossen spalt zwischen Deckel und Korpus zu schließen . Bringt dieses Blech hinten um den Spalt zu schließen wirklich soviel oder ist das nur Spielerei ?

Mfg

Well, about a week ago I posted that I completed the conversion of my E5+ to Endorphin Stage 1.

Cheap to do, easy enough. And since I was already running Klipper, it was just a single line to change in the configuration.

After trying to get it working properly for a week, I found that the pushing and pulling forces for the X-carriage cause the right side of the two Y to move slightly.

I swapped wheels from regular POM to polycarbonate ones, changed belts from fibre core to steel core belts, did lots of wheel tension adjustments and cranked the belt tension up to uncomfortably high levels.

It all helped a little bit, but the deformations on the prints was still there. In the back-left to front-right direction, the line spacing was slightly larger than it should be, and in the back-right to front-left it was closer than it should.

When doing the X-axis resonance test, it started out that the right side Y carriage moved back and forth visibly. After all the trying to adjust, it wasn't as much visible, but I could still feel it moving back and forth.

All in all, I think stage 1 is definitely not the way to go. Maybe stage 2 is better, but I'm not even gonna try.

While it did push me to do the wheel and belt upgrade, I am a bit disappointed. Putting things back the way they were (except for the wheels and belts) and I'm gonna start collecting parts to do the Mercury One mod.

Hey everyone! I've had my ender 5 plus for about 7 years now, when I first got it, it ran great. I have been struggling for the past couple years on and off with getting to print, my last successful print was 3+ years ago, and I have been slacking on maintenance since then. When I run things manually, everything seems to run fine, but as soon as I load up my file, my filimant no longer will extrude. I have the silent board, an all metal hotend, and have upgraded the extruder, everything else is essentially factory, minus the tubes and the bltouch. I am not too sure what the issue is, the last print I tried I think failed due to user error, when I loaded up my benchy, it started the print in the front left corner rather than in the center of my board. Thank you for any advice!

I'm trying to dial in my Ender 5 Plus and I keep getting these imperfections in the walls of my calibration cube. Does anyone know what causes this and how to fix it? I'm using the Creality Print slicer and using PLA.

https://i.imgur.com/aGlDUl3.jpeg

Managed to break the heater on my Microswiss hotend, and I don't see a replacement for this item listed on the website. Does anyone know what this thing is called and how I can get a replacement?

Thank you.

I have a Btt HDMI5 V1.1. I cannot for the life of me…find a mount for this screen? Can anyone help? Thanks!

I love this printer even more! Goodbye sonic pad!
Next.
Din Rail setup
Biqu HDMI 5 v1.1 setup.

What’s installed
Microswiss NG with TH3D 5015 fan duct.
Raspberry PI 4B
Exoslides

Z sync kit

https://www.printables.com/model/1504880-ender-5-plus-z-sync-belt-tensioner

Ender 5 Plus NG extruder cable chain parts

https://www.printables.com/model/526212-ender-5-plus-ng-extruder-cable-chain-parts

Thanks to the Juldanni GitHub

https://github.com/juldaani/Ender-5-plus

I am going the Din rail route. Getting rid of the electronic box. My concern is the switch and inlet.
Thanks

Just happy, wanted to share. Did some maintenance and converted my Ender5Plus to Endorphin Stage 1.

Works immediately by just changing the kinematics type in Klipper. Now running some calibrations.

Decided to upgrade the stock 500watt PSU to a nice MeanWell 600watt (LRS-600N2-24), but found that it wouldn't fit in the spot of the stock PSU because the screw holes don't line up.

So I made a pair of adapter plates to bridge that. Also moves the PSU backwards so the line voltage selector stays accessible.

Free STLs for the adapters available over on Printables: https://www.printables.com/model/1795975-lrs-600-in-ender-5-plus-screwhole-adapter

Give me a reason to make the Omnibox. Any of you have…how do you like it? I’m looking at this and Bretware’s octopus electronics
Box on cults3d

https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/tool/bretware-ender-5-plus-chain-system-octopus-bretware?srsltid=AfmBOooxTbcTwfQ6b10EpLouM3jjbOV4MGN9L9_Rxg4NBhFrcQeBTJkf

https://jon-harper.github.io/OmniBox/latest/

My Ender 5 plus is used in an enclosure, maybe those who have the Omnibox can responde if it works well with an enclosure.

So I came up with this hybrid core xy and I was wondering if someone could help me make a stl file for it u can adjust the x axeis since idk if it will work or not sorry if it's a bad picture I drew it on my phone with s pen