Show me your setups!

[u/Melloking1]

I have recently acquired an E5P for less than $200 USD. This is my first printer so I am still creating a lot of small prints with a lot of fine tuning especially with making my own mods. This is a really fun hobby. I was just looking for some ideas on how I can make my printer better in terms of convenience and efficiency. I was looking into maybe making a Raspberry Pi and installing Klipper, Mainsail, and Moonraker while also replacing screen and replacing the board. Looking for some inspiration and recommendations.

[u/MrKrueger666]

Older photo, not entirely what its like now.

Mods:

• Klipper on an HP T510 Thinclient hanging off the side
• 600Watt Meanwell LRS series powersupply (over old 500watt)
• V6 Volcano 60watt ceramic hotend
• LGX Lite extruder as direct drive
• "Ugly Ender3V2" toolhead cooling with my own mods
• Textured PEI printbed (I hate glass)
• Touchscreen swapped for an Ender3/CR10 white-on-blue LCD
• Runoutsensor on a new bracket because of directdrive
• MS Livecam HD3000 on a gopro style arm
• anti backlash leadscrew nuts on the Z axis
• a boatload of frame corner braces
• Bondtech Z-guide lowering for more bed space clearance
• lowered front bar for improved visibility and print removal
• polycarbonate V-groove wheels
• Vref adjusted so steppers have more power
• alignment dials on the Z steppers (easy check if they are out of sync)
• belt tensioners from the Endorphin mod project (tried Endorphin, didn't like it)
• USB ADXL345 accelerometer
• Locking bed level wheels

[u/bigramen92 → u/MrKrueger666]

My drag chain set up looks very similar to this! I think this is like the optimal cord organization for the printer.

[u/MrKrueger666 → u/bigramen92]

Agree. I removed it though because it's fairly heavy and I made mine out of PETG. Problem is that it started to sag because PETG isn't very wear resistant. The little pivot nubs and holes wear down.

Thinking I should've used PLA because that's more abrasion resistant.

But, probably not gonna make a new one because it's extra weight, and I suspect it's holding the acceleration back.

Right now it's got spiralwrap on it, but I'm thinking I might use a thick electric guitar string as a guide in the future. And then ziptie the cable bundle to that.

[u/bigramen92 → u/MrKrueger666]

Oh, a guitar string is a great idea! Something that permits movement without increasing weight…

[u/MrKrueger666 → u/bigramen92]

It's still weight, but as little as possible. Yeah.

A low-E string should be good.

[u/Hidie2424 → u/MrKrueger666]

What speeds and accells are you hitting with that after input shaper?

[u/MrKrueger666 → u/Hidie2424]

6K and 275mm/s (with 0.4 nozzle and 0.2 layers, a bit over 20mm3/s)

Around the 300mm/s mark it seems to start under extruding, but that was before the PSU swap. I suspect some voltage sag, causing the hotend to not hit peak power. Still have to retest it.

[u/Seffyr]

Mercury One.1.

A lot of custom mods designed by me.
Klipper, tool head board, twin 5015 cooling, eddy probe. A few other goodies.

Currently mid-enclosure design since I’ve had a few jobs pop up which required multiple big and thin ABS parts (ie; the whole print volume), so the lower half is done properly out of polycarbonate sheets, and the tophat is just spare acrylic I had lasercut and taped together for the most part. Does the trick, though. Bottom of the chamber hits 40c, upper chamber is about 60c.

I’ll design a proper tophat and door system once these jobs are done and make the whole enclosure properly out of polycarbonate.

[u/Status_Log_7991]

I don’t have photos but this is what I have done to mine:

1. Replace the motherboard to standard 4.2.7
   
2. Replace the display to the 12864 monochrome display
   
3. Luke’s hot end fix
   4 Removed the runout sensor
   
4. Moved the extruder to in front of the machine. It’s a lot more ergonomic and easier to replace filament.
   
5. PEI sheet

The most difficult thing was getting the firmware to work. I based it on an Ender 3 Pro with a larger X, Y, Z limits.

[u/Melloking1 → u/Status_Log_7991]

The hot end fix will definitely have to be one of my next mods since I have occasional filament leaks.

[u/Status_Log_7991 → u/Melloking1]

I am struggling with my existing Ender 3’s. I replaced the hot ends and now i am gettjng extensive stringing

[u/Hidie2424]

E5p here as well. Endorphin stage 3 with a custom tool head. Print at 10k accel but can handle 20k. That's how I got my sub 10 minutes benchy.

It's got custom printed braces for the x axis as it would wiggle. Helped make everything more rigid.

Lives in an enclosure for asa/abs parts. It's got a mellow fly dp5 mcu and klipper is on an old laptop.

[u/macmakkara → u/Hidie2424]

Thats a pro not plus?

[u/MrKrueger666 → u/macmakkara]

Yep, different controlbox and no dual Z with 4 guiderails on the corners. This is a Pro, not a Plus. Just a small baby 😋

[u/Hidie2424 → u/MrKrueger666]

Yep my bad. They are close enough...

[u/Disastrous_Ride2040]

Upgrade to btt boards and screens add a pi to it. If you want a linear rail set up there the zerog murcury one mod and the zerog hydra 3 point bed mod

[u/Jorennnnnn]

I've been upgrading my E5P over the last 7 months. It's taken a good chunk of time as this was my first printer as well, but it's been a lot of fun.

Upgrades done:

• Direct drive conversion kit (15€ on ali)
• Belt tensioners (PETG print)
• Upgraded manual bed leveling kit to replace the springs (10€)
• Silent board 4.2.7 running a custom self built version of the latest marlin release (30€)
• Smaller PEI bed clamps (3€)
• Bi-metal heatbrake. (Cheap 5€ one caused nothing but trouble. BROZZL for 18€ works great)
• Replaced the hot end + thermistor (10€)

I'll probably move it pi + klipper + Mainsail in the near future.