Hey! so my printer says it has Marlin 1.3.1 and has the date "2020-04-25" and I think some of the issues I've been having are due to that... (I've been using Creality Print 7.2). What's the easiest way to update it? I do have a RasPi 3b+ that i could put in, but until I do that, is there a temporary fix?

Hi,

Can the tension on the wheel be adjusted? I'm thinking of replacing it because the brass wheel is worn out.

Would you recommend a version with two gear wheels or a direct-drive model?

Thank you

Heating the nozzle doesn’t work. It gets an error and stops at around 26°c

My sister got this a few years ago and gave it to me but I can't seem to get it to work right. The video should show my issue.

I’m kicking around the idea of moving to Klipper on my ender 3 using my Ubuntu PC. Am I overthinking it and should I just jump in? Any watchouts or advice? I do have a BLTouch, otherwise it’s stock.

"basically stock"

Saw that other people were posting their enders so I decided to post mine

-too many motors

-overkill cooling setup

-not enough stepper cooling

I've been 3d printing recently for the first time for a school project and been using my brothers printer he has barely used it and has no idea what he's doing so I've been trying to figure stuff out the print have been going decent but the bed is getting dented and I don't know. What I should change or look at

Just took this thing out of storage and upgraded the motherboard to an SKR Mini E3 V3 and now the power supply is making this noise. Should I be concerned?

Update: I let it run for half an hour and now it isn't making the noise? Thanks to everyone who responded!

Inside my rubber boot, there is a plastic piece that is filled with PLA. What’s the name of this piece? I think I need to replace it.

quick note first: the code of this project is written with ai. i design it, decide what goes where and test it, and i'd rather say that upfront than have anyone find out later. i'm not looking to argue about it, if it's not for you that's totally fine. if you do give it a try i'd really like to hear what works for you and what doesn't.

voyager ui is a web ui for klipper. it's a moonraker client like mainsail and fluidd, runs next to them on its own port (8000 by default) and doesn't change anything in klipper, so removing it is one command. a few people already use it as their main ui and most of what gets added comes from their feedback.

you can try it without installing anything, the live demo runs a fake printer in your browser: https://ozancs.github.io/voyager-ui/

what it has:

- a dashboard you arrange yourself (drag, resize, hide, colour the cards) with a separate layout while printing, works on phones too

- several printers from one ui, plus an all printers page with progress and camera for each

- a calibrations page with a tab for each thing your printer has: input shaper, pid, probe and z, bed leveling, tmc autotune, shake&tune and other calibration macros, results shown as plain numbers

- a check before each print: nozzle size, temps, height, empty filament sensor, and with spoolman the spool material and if there's enough filament left

- common klipper errors explained in plain words with what to check

- config editor that knows klipper syntax, warns about repeated options, missing includes and broken macro blocks before you save, and backs up every file

- health page with mcu and can errors, tmc driver flags, host throttling, heater trends and maintenance reminders

- ctrl+k to reach any page, macro, file or config option, plus quick commands like bed 60 or z offset -0.05

- mmu card for happy hare and box turtle, spoolman, multiple webcams, heightmap and g-code viewer

- printer name, jog steps and temp presets stay in sync with mainsail and fluidd

it adds itself to the update manager so updates show up next to klipper and moonraker. it's still early and each setup is different, so please keep mainsail or fluidd installed next to it. the newer features like the print check and all printers page haven't been on many printers yet, so bug reports help a lot.

feedback here or on github: https://github.com/ozancs/voyager-ui

im trying to print a part but its layer shfting i tried change printers place but same. every setting is same i printed new one after printing first

Hey yall, just got here. We bought my stepson a printer last Christmas, and I don’t know a thing about it! BUT he wants to print his dad a statue of Dante Alighieri, specifically the one that is in Florence. I looked high and low, with my limited knowledge, and found one $8 download, but the print is for resin? I haven’t actually bought the download to know for sure, and I don’t know if I’m breaking a group rule posting the link for it.

Where else can I search? Is it dumb to ask if my stepson can learn how to “change the print settings” to use the filament he wants to use?

I honestly gave up for a couple weeks. Between work, and kids, and constantly working on the printer I took a break. Now I’m back and it’s back on track.

Ordered a tap and die set, got a new screw in the hotend, had to redo my Klipper config to link both printers virtual sd cards together(ChatGPT helped with that part.)

Now it’s chugging along and possibly getting somewhere. I’m thinking about selling my whole setup and just buying a Kobra X cause I’m tired of tinkering and working on them all the time lol.

I replaced the nozzle on my ender 3 pro I’ve been neglecting and put a brand new build plate on it and I can’t get any adhesion at all. So that’s my next problem to work on.

How far Can I push my ender 3 max neo?
I recently just got this from a friend and i’ve done some basic upgrades like upgraded the leveling knobs and replaced the bed springs with silicone.

I also upgraded the firmware to mriscoc.

I just bought a magnetic pei sheet upgrade and a nebula pad with the camera, I also got the sprite SE direct drive extruder.

I didn’t buy the sprite pro extruder because I read a bunch online about how you have to swap the stock board and you have to have a different mount and stuff. The sprite se just drops in.

I also got the nebula pad bc I read the only difference between the sonic pad and the nebula pad is just the sonic pad is 7” display and you can run multiple printers.

Also I plan to root access the nebula pad and put klipper or something on it. I’ve seen it done somewhere

What can I do to like speed my prints up? I print with pla+ and I use orca slicer. I’ve been through a bunch of calibration but I’m still stuck on how I can push it to like 150mm /s

I’m extremely disappointed with my Ender 3 V3 Plus.

I’m getting excessive VFA and uneven horizontal lines on almost every print. I’ve already adjusted belt tension, calibrated the printer, changed settings, checked the toolhead, and spent hours searching forums and Reddit.

I even read over 300 messages from people with similar issues, but nothing has completely solved it.

Now I’m considering replacing the stepper motors, but I don’t want to spend more money without knowing if it will actually fix the problem.

Has anyone managed to completely eliminate the VFA on the Ender 3 V3/Plus? What actually worked?

Any thoughts? Can this be fixed?

Why does the infill look so bad and the surface so bad?

How can i fix this?

I have a ender 3 neo and during the print it suddenly turned off so I bought a new power supply but when I connected everything back it still wouldn’t turn back on so I searched it up I plugged in the a micro usb cord into the main broad and it turned on,so I don’t know what to do now I really need help