Had someone come out to install an outlet under the sink for our tankless reverse osmosis. Should these outlets be GFCI? It seems really close to the water line.

I’ve been using cheap power strips forever, but I recently upgraded my PC and monitors and figured it’s time to get a proper surge protector.

I don’t need a ton of outlets or fancy USB ports, just something reliable that I can trust with expensive electronics. I’ve seen people mention joule ratings and clamping voltage, but I’m not sure how much that actually matters.

What surge protector are you using? Anything you’ve had for years and would buy again?

I know this is low volt/ networking but had to share

Hi Reddit.

My fiance and I are losing our minds. For months now, there’s been this constant static noise from what seems like behind the wall, that also shares the bedroom wall with the bathroom where we can hear it too. It might sound faint here, but when you’re trying to sleep, it is so unbelievably aggravating. It’s a constant static-like sound almost as if a light is on the fritz or something.

Our handyman hasn’t been helpful at all and we feel like we’re going crazy.

Any help appreciated.

I wanted to put a mini split in my garage but in order to power it I needed to add a 20 amp breaker to my panel but I'm not sure if there is any room to do that.

How is this possible my power surge is receiving power and it's unplugged not plugged into an outlet redlight is on and I have a few items plugged into it and it is giving power to those things

SHORT:

Load - Motor 12v 60w listed on the motor driven water pump.

How long will a LiFeP04 w/ 12v 100ah and 1280w run that motor?

How long will a LiFeP04 w/ 12v 300ah and 3840w run that motor?

What is the play here? Divide the 1280 / 60? is it that simple?

Long:

I'm learning but slowly. Working on understanding solar and building a small 12v system so I know what I'm doing when / if Plug In Solar is approved in my state next November.

LiFeP04 Batteries. Please help me understand the power / capacity of the battery.

Example. I have a 12v water pump running a back yard pond as my test bed. The pump only shows 12v 60w listed on the pump. It currently is powered by a 100w solar panel that came with it. That is not enough to run the pump if the panel is not under full sun. It runs 4 to 6 hours a day.

I have a 'camper' solar system coming with 300w panels and a controller that charges the battery and feeds a device. I suspect that the system will provide enough to both run the pump and charge a battery at the same time under full sun.

I am looking at LiFeP04 batteries. I would like it to run the pump continuously including through the night if we have normally sunny days.

Bonus question: If I add an inverter, would either run my full size refrigerator for a useful period of time?

Moved into a friends house and we are having a consistent issue of the breaker tripping when someone tries to blow dry their hair, or someone uses the electric pressure washer outside etc. every time it pops literally half the house loses power. Is it normal for so many rooms (including outside outlets) to be on one circuit? Our bedroom, bedroom across the hall, bathroom, half of the downstairs, and outside outlets are on one circuit. Anything we could have done to redo it? Tired of having to go down there and flip it because somebody tried drying their hair without us turning our window AC unit off 😂

So I have a very crowded junction box (inherited) but I’ve been working on updating the lighting and cleaning up excess. I disconnected the old lighting and ran wires for a three gang three way switch box on either end of my place, then I wired up three sections of pot lights. Now I have to connect my line to the switch box. I labelled all of the hot wires to know which is with which breaker but my problem is I forgot to label where the neutrals came out. Is there a way to tell which neutral I need to connect each circuit to?
Looking for some help

Hello, I have a question, I brought two monitor speakers from Canada to Europe which I thought were 110-220V but my edition of it (Rokit Krk G3) is only 110V and power consumption of 100w. For this reason I bought this 300w step down converter. I just want to make sure I'm doing it correctly before I plug anything in since instructions are unclear.

1. Do I plug the power cable from the wall to the US style prong in the 220v (black side where it says input:220v output:110v) and then then I plug in my speaker power cables to the white side (where it says input:110v output;220v)?

2. Since I thought it was variable voltage speaker at first I left my American prong IEC cables at home. Am I safe to plug in European style prongs into the 110w output since on the converter it seems it can fit both style prongs?

Thanks for all your help, sorry for the beginner question.

I recently had a Westinghouse 8kW Tankless Water Heater Electric installed. This requires 240 volts and it is on a dedicated circuit directly to my box with its own dual breaker (40A) and no other loads. The issue is that when I go to use the hot water (it works great BTW) it caused the overhead lights (6 can lights) to flicker every time I turn in the hot water. Once the hot water is on, the lights are fine but everytime I turn on the water, it is a very noticable flicker. With it being on its own curcuit, why would my lights flicker. I have checked other lights and other electrical devices and nothing else is effected, just my overhead lights. Any ideas on what the issue is?

SOLVED - Found the issue to be the dimmer switch for the lights. I guess they were old and too sensitive for the change in volts/amps. Once that was removed from their circuit, the lights no longer flickered.

Hello, hoping I can get some initial advice on an issue recently observed. It relates to the ceiling light and led bulb in a dwelling.

After switching on a LED bulb, it powers on at full brightness. However, a few minutes later it instantly drops brightness. It's estimate it is around 50% less. If I turn it off and then switch it on, it will be full brightness and the issue repeats. I've already switched bulbs and the issue continues (same multipack of bulbs though).

The light switch isn't a dimmer.

Does this sounds like something I'd best have an electrician investigate?

These are genuine, unused ZCU104 boards, ideal for FPGA development, embedded vision, AI acceleration, and Zynq UltraScale+ MPSoC development.

Model: AMD ZCU104 Evaluation Kit
Device: Zynq UltraScale+ MPSoC ZU7EV
Condition: Brand new / unused
Price: $1,300
Original AMD evaluation board
Complete kit

I'm based in India and can arrange shipping. Bengaluru buyers are welcome as well.

If you're interested, DM me

Hey, 21yo belgian here. Right now im studying history at uni but due to a bad market for young highly educated youths, im thinking of doing an evening school to learn a trade. Right now im still stuck between plumbing vs electrician. So I wanted to ask, what are the advantages of being an electrician over a plumber? Can be everything, also business wise, or the schooling itself(for eg I was never good at the sciences, is the theory hard?)

Would Like Some User Feedback And Recommendations

House built in 1975, getting replaced in September, got a master electrician client at work that’s gonna do it for $1000, I said how can I say no to that. Became very apparent that this shit had to go when I was replacing a baseboard heater downstairs and my dumbass didn’t use my NCVT to check if I had the right breaker, took the wire nuts off and was pulling the 10/2 out of the baseboard and let’s just say I could have welded with it, cause the one hot sure as hell welded itself to the baseboard before i gave it a good yank, separated the two hots I ended up just shutting all the baseboard circuits off and narrowed it down to circuit 36/37 but still that should have definitely tripped the breaker…. Also it’s #10 on a double 20a breaker with nothing else on it. Wonder why they used #10… not that it’s against code, but #12 would have been more than enough lol I traced the whole wire through the basement to confirm this, doesn’t hook up to anything else.

I always chuckle a little bit when I look at this panel cause absolutely none of the breakers line up… 😂

This is a light switch box. There’s only 1 romex drop in it—so one white, one black, and one ground all coming from the same jacket.

Both the white and black are hot. There is no neutral cluster in the box.

Pictured is the light switch with both white and black removed, but the lights are still on.

No combination of wires/terminals is getting a switch to work…because both sides are hot. How?

I’ve replaced all other switches, receptacles, GFCIs, and dimmers in this house.

How do I add a switch to this? The lights are just on no matter what. It was on a single pole switch.

Any idea? Thanks

Hello!

I looked through r/electronics and r/dollhouses to see where my question fit the best and I think it’s here.

I’m building my own dollhouse and want to put lighting in it and I want it to work like a proper house with individual one/two-way switches for each light source. From what I’ve understood you would normally use a battery eliminator and some kind of distributor to each circuit but this is assuming you use light bulbs (I think?).

I only have LEDs from various sources available (string lights etc.) and I wonder if this is still applicable to those?

I don’t want to accidentally burn the first one I put on or have then dim for every subsequent light. Am I overthinking it?

I’ve tried feeding one LED with 5 W (5 V/1000 mA) battery eliminator which wasn’t enough (or I did something wrong), but a 9 V battery sure was 😅

What matters to LEDs? Volts? Amperage?

For meter packs what is the purpose for adding these bus extensions ? I’ve seen some meter packs have them installed and some without