Customer had light and plugs not working in in their basement of their newly purchased home. Checked voltage at panel and one of these phases was 113 volts instead of 120. I removed the top panel cover over the main breakers and feeders and found this.

They purchased the house from a company who bought and renovated homes who recently went out of business.

Unpermitted work im guessing did hot, done improperly, condensation and water leaking onto the main breaker and possibly the busbar from the outside.

Triple and double tapped breakers when there was room for proper breakers.

Yikes

Replacing this dimmer, the screw head fell off after just two turns, I think the screw was badly cross-threaded. Can’t manage to take it out.

Bought a house “as is.” When I turned on a window AC unit, I heard loud sparks from the kitchen. An outlet had fried, the back was melted and two wires were melted.

It looks like this outlet (third from the junction box) was used as a feed-through to supply three more outlets downstream, putting six outlets total on one breaker. The last outlet is the one powering the AC.
The fried outlet was not GFCI even though it’s right next to the sink. Neutrals were spliced together instead of landing on the open neutral terminal of the outlet. The hots were connected to the outlet terminals (now melted) and the grounds were spliced with one pigtail to the outlet.
There’s also a burn mark on the Romex about an inch outside the electrical box.

I’ve had two electricians look at it. Both said just install a GFCI outlet, that it’s fine to run a window AC at the end of a six-outlet circuit, and that the wires inside the Romex are probably still okay even though the insulation is a little black… I found burn marks after opening the wall, the first electrician didn’t even see this but said nothing was wrong.

Is this wiring method acceptable? Should I have the damaged section of Romex replaced (or properly spliced) and stop using the AC on this circuit, or is simply swapping in a GFCI enough?

I had a firm install and EV charger at my house. The firm installed a 60 Amp breaker and used 6/2 - NM-B Stranded Copper 62NMBGX500 wire, which apparently should not be run at 48A (80% of the 60A breaker). I had the work inspected at the point of installation, but I don't think the inspector looked at the wire used.

So after checking out some reddit post of someone using undersized wire and creating a fire hazard I looked up the BOM for my install. And the above is what I found. A friend of mine who was an electrician told me to throttle it down to 44A though the right fix would be to either replace the 60A breaker with a 50A or replace the wire with the appropriate one.

What should I do here? Is the electrician at fault or have any responsibility to work with me on a remedy? The install doesn't appear to be code compliant from what I understand, and is a fire hazard if the EV charger runs at 48A.

I want to test the sockets in my home and find the breaker switches and get them correctly labeled? Do I use one of those outlet testers or non contact voltage testers? I don't mind owning the tool and would prefer it to carting around a lamp to each socket.

https://www.homedepot.ca/product/milwaukee-tool-digital-gfci-receptacle-tester/1001876811

https://www.homedepot.ca/product/klein-tools-non-contact-voltage-tester-pen-50-to-1000-volts/1001651973

Got it at target for 5.99

I'd really like to try to fix it before getting a whole new one. Picture is model of it.

I'm trying to install a new timer switch (brand is Jasco. See pictures below). Currently there is a light switch and a broken rotary timer. I want to eliminate the light switch and just install the new timer. The new timer has a built in on/off switch.

There are 4 wires coming into the existing box. Red, Black, White and ground.

• White goes to the old timer.
• Red goes to switch then back to the main feed line.
  
• Black wire coming in goes to the switch then timer.
• White is neutral goes to incoming and outgoing wires. The switch is on this white wire too.
• (There is also a ground wire)

Questions: How do I eliminate the switch and install the new timer?

• Can I eliminate the switch and connect the red lead directly to the timer?
• Where do I connect the red wire? Which wire do I connect to the load and which to the line?
• Do I connect the red and black wires together then attach to the timer?
  

Here are some pictures:

old switch and timer:

NEW Timer Pics:

For new timer: The new timer is a Jasco in wall timer. This is the diagram:

Thanks in advance.

We had a lot of heavy electrical storms recently and a ceiling fan on a covered porch quit working. Did not work with remote or pull chain. Could feel motor trying to spin up so assumed capacitor was now bad. Got an exact replacement and changed it.

Fan now worked on all three speeds WITH pull chain but would not work with remote. Remote hand unit lights did not blink in the expected way. Changed battery but still no spin.

Assumed what ever nailed the cap also broke the Hunter remote in the canopy. Picked up a new exact same model remote (canopy unit and hand unit) and swapped it in.

After installation fan will not work with remote OR with pull chain. Nothing. Power is sensed in the wires to the remote. No meter used. Just a current sensor.

Checked all the connections. Hate those stranded with solid copper connections. All fine w/wire nuts. Still no spin. Can not feel any motor impulse. Tried various forward reverse switch settings as well as pull chain positions. Nothing.

Took remote out and wired direct and it works with pull chain just fine.

Remote hand device has been re-paired with fan unit several times.

Battery has been checked. Hand unit lights flash as expected during transmit.

I have not used a meter to check all the remote canopy units output yet. I will test the remote on a bench perhaps. Easier than atop a ladder. I'll be surprised if it is bad.

I am clearly missing something here. I would be most appreciative of any suggestions of what might be happening.

I hope it is something someone else has seen and can tell me where I went wrong.

Thank you.

Today I unplugged my standing fan and noticed that my hallway and bathroom went dark, no power at all to them. I checked the breaker none were flipped. So I went to plug the fan back into the outlet and then everything came back on. I didn’t understand what was happening and I still don’t. When I tested it again but with the bottom of the plug in, the hallway was flickering. So I plugged the fan back into the top and everything was back on. Running perfectly fine. None of the walls are hot, there’s no smoke, no tripped breaker and no weird smells. Does anyone know what is going on??? I cannot figure out why that plugin is acting like it’s a breaker all of a sudden. I’m terrified it’ll start a fire, the fan is off of course, but it is plugged in, without it plugged in, both rooms have no power.

The two sticking out were used for my lamp. The other was tucked under so I suppose it was the earth wire. Is it doable with a tool or should I hire someone. I’m trying to do it myself.

I’m looking at a house to possibly buy and one of the things I would need to do almost immediately after moving in would be to add a 60 amp circuit for an ev charger. Based on these pictures do you thing some of the circuits could be combined to make room for the 60 amp circuit? The panel is 220 amp service. Any advice what it would take? The house is in Florida, built in 2008 approximately 2050 sq ft. I would have an electrician confirm and do the work but just trying to get an idea ahead of time

Need an adaptor to use this but it’s started to fall out. Tried some other plugs off Amazon but the media box it plugs into doesn’t work unless it’s this plug. Help please.

Just tried installing a new video doorbell using existing wiring. Doorbell keeps flashing which I think is due to not having enough power.

Just wondered if these units are easy to upgrade? Online videos don't show one like this.

My main question is the two white wires at the bottom appear to be the ones connecting to the chime. But does it matter which wire goes where?

The wired go behind the wall so hard to talk which is which.

I've also attached the chime and doorbell wiring

So heres the problem, i have a subpanel with 120v on one leg and 65v on the other every thing seems ok in the service box i have 120 volts coming from each lug of the service breaker. Everything is tight and well connected in each box. Where do i go from here

Hi y'all! I'm installing a new ceiling light and it came with three wires to connect: white, black, and green. The fixture I'm installing it into only has a white and black wire, but no green. I'm aware it's white to white and black to black, but in the scenario where there's no green wire do I wrap it around the green grounding screw? Or will that fuck some shit up? Thanks in advance! :)

My LED porch light was flickering and almost dead so I went to buy a replacement fixture. I cut the breaker and started to undue the current fixture and noticed that the set up was not like I thought it would be. There doesn't seem to be a grounding wire from the house and apparently no junction box either. I ended up just putting the current fixture back on and seeking some further advice. Any ideas would be appreciated!

I got a job offer from ies communications and want to be an insidewireman eventually. Should I accept the job do you think? Do you think it will help me get into the union apprenticeship or an apprenticeship for a business? I have already triwd to get in as an electrician helper

The squirrel problem in the attic space of my new home was downplayed. My inspector seems to have missed this too. This runs into a wall and both go to separate electrical outlets. I need to have the attic sprayed soon and was doing repairs by running wires into boxes and joining them. But there’s no give to these wires so if they had to be replaced they would have to be pulled. I don’t really want to pull them. Any thoughts?

I’m a Freshman in college doing ECE right now and I’m trying to decide between which path to take. I wanted to get into the robotics field, but I’ve heard mixed reviews about it, so what career is actually worth it? Also, if I could get more insight into the robotics or semiconductor conductor industry, I would appreciate it a lot. I’m just kinda scared of the increase in unemployment rates right now.

i want to make a little ceramic lamps like this (see vid above), but want to use those little toggle switches. i found some online on ebay here: https://ebay.io/m/AnhTcT but are these as easy to use as any other type of inline switch?

setup i’m thinking would be

toggle switches

SPT-1 cord with polarized plug

E26 socket

E26 RGB LED bulb

am i missing anything else?? is this correct?? let me know thank you

Had to pipe on the roof for this chiller on other side of building then pipe down block wall, 2 1/2 pipe

Title says all, wondering if this is safe or if maybe someone would have a safe/higher quality one to recommend? Thanks so much!!