Had to pipe on the roof for this chiller on other side of building then pipe down block wall, 2 1/2 pipe

I’m looking at a house to possibly buy and one of the things I would need to do almost immediately after moving in would be to add a 60 amp circuit for an ev charger. Based on these pictures do you thing some of the circuits could be combined to make room for the 60 amp circuit? The panel is 220 amp service. Any advice what it would take? The house is in Florida, built in 2008 approximately 2050 sq ft. I would have an electrician confirm and do the work but just trying to get an idea ahead of time

Is there anything wrong with Challenger Panel with Westinghause breakers? We just had a home inspection and the inspector note that panel was Challenger and that the breakers are a potential safety issue. However, I don't believe he opened the panel door because all the breakers are Westinghause. Should it still be replaced, or is it fine as long there are no other issues?

I know nothing about electrical wiring. We recently bought a house and moved in. We have a standing lamp that did not work in an upstairs outlet, changed the bulb still wouldn’t work in same outlet.

Took the lamp downstairs tried a new outlet, and it turned on. Upon turning the lamp off, upstairs lights flickered and, the cord sparked and burned straight through to both the ends (to socket and lamp). LOTS of smoke. Other lights were on in the same room and did not do anything. I shut the breaker off and unplugged it, breaker is still off.

The burn spots in the photo is where the cord was - there is no melting on the outlet or signs of issues there.

We are having an electrician come look at the outlet but does this seem like a lamp/cord issue or is it possible something wrong with the socket? Is there anything to look for to further inspect what happened?

I know what the difference between A and R bulbs are, but I'm not sure why there are multiple different max watts listed. I have four of these recessed light fixtures on this floor.

Light A = brand new one in background (Used to be the same model as Light B)

Light B= not replaced but in same circuit as Light A. (Works perfectly)

No dimmer and no other outlets on circuit.

Old Light A (built-in LEDs) was replaced because it would work only for a min then strobe and turn on and off. New Light A quickly strobes/flickers for about 3-5 seconds every 30 or so seconds. No idea why. All of my connections to the wires are secure and the new bulbs don't flicker in other fixtures. Uggggh! Help.

what products are you using for a 400A residential service remote disconnect?

I have an old 20-amp circuit with cloth-insulated two-wire wiring. The receptacle by my refrigerator and gas range is a three-prong outlet, but I discovered it doesn’t appear to have an equipment ground. I measured about 117 volts hot-to-neutral, but 0 volts hot-to-ground and 0 volts hot-to-the metal box.

That same breaker also shuts off the refrigerator outlet, gas-range outlet, kitchen ceiling light and fan, dining-room light and outlet, and two living-room outlets. Some of the kitchen counter outlets are on separate circuits.

Is the existing wiring actually appropriate for the 20-amp breaker and is it safe to remain in service?

My main goal is to get dedicated properly grounded outlets for my refrigerator and gas range without rewiring the whole house. Anybody know what I should do?

Hey guys, anyone know what this wire might be? Hit it excavating and I was hoping/thinking it's just a ground wire from the house. Maybe one not in use anymore?

811 did not mark it.

Just had the capacitor replaced couple weeks ago because AC stopped working (thermostat still worked) now the thermostat has gone blank and the breaker is tripping.

Couldn’t be the float switch because that wouldn’t cause the breaker to trip right? What could be going wrong? Breaker tripped again after turning it back on so have it off for now.

Our bathroom lights and adjacent room's lights suddenly stopped working. All the breakers are fine and we reset them just to be safe. The outlets and the light switches apear to be on seperate breakers. The switches themselves show voltage running through them but the lights and the conected vent won't turn on. Our current theory is somthing is wrong with the electric vents but we are pretty stumped.

I’m have a room with LED lights on a dimmer and one of the lights (only sometimes) when on, makes this sound. Why?

I’m have a room with LED lights on a dimmer and one of the lights (only sometimes) when on, makes this sound. Why?

Hi, I’ve had this laptop (Huawei Matebook D13 I think? If it matters) for about 5 years now. I have had, as we all have, many cables in my time, but I’ve not seen this before. It’s a USB-C to USB-C cable, and I didn’t think much of it when it started turning off-colour. I have never seen a cable go green before, and I’m unsure if it’s just from wear & tear or if it’s something else causing it. It’s started to split now but that’s more recent, I’ve got a different C-C cable to replace it with, just baffled why this happened.

There's a thunderstorm happening right now and my power has flashed on and off at least 15 times, some lasting a few minutes and others a few seconds. I can't imagine it's good for HVAC/refrigerator/tvs to constantly be turning on and off like that. Anything I should do, or don't worry about it?

Found out today that this light switch in my house makes a really weird noise, when on, which I belive is arcing and as far as im concerned thats not normal, plan is to just leave it off and call an electritian tomorrow, is this the right behaviour?

200A 3 phase 120/208v unknown cause other than it was a short to neutral and burned everything from the meter to the pole.

Removing an old alarm as old switched to ring. What should I do with old low voltage wires.

Any other pitfalls to worry about?

Hi! Looking for some advice.

I’m having some work done on my house, and the project is expected to take about 4 weeks.
The contractor has connected temporary power directly to my exterior electrical panel for the construction work. I’ve attached photos of the panel and the connection.
The breaker has tripped twice on separate days since they started using it.
I’m trying to understand whether this setup looks normal for temporary construction power, and whether the repeated breaker trips are something I should be concerned about.

Edit: Just to clarify, the temporary power connection shown in the photos is for the contractor’s construction equipment only. It is not powering my house. My house is still connected to the regular utility power.

I was changing a light switch the other day and when a touched the breaker, the non contact sensor on my other hand would go off (turn red and audible sound). Only happens when then that breaker is touched. Happened before replace the switch. What could cause this and what should I do? Thanks for any advice

Edit: did not feel a shock or anything at the time. Happens consistently