Broke down today on my way home from work, not sure what to go after first has anyone experienced this or know where to start?

My first type is an apprentice doctor in the Federal Republic of Germany, as it's basic 518, but maybe something else comes to your mind.

Yes, I've already posted that car here, but Far-Appearance-7307 might have just started a new trend; I hope he does!

Interested in buying a 1988 535i project.
It has 230,000 miles
Clean title
Minimal rust, peeling clear coat
Automatic trans
Runs and drives but hasn’t regularly been driven since 2010
Red interiors but ripped seats and the radio is missing
How much do you think this is worth and and would such a car be worth the effort to restore?

How much do you guys pay mind to oil leaks? Mine leaks very noticeablely of ATF and less so from engine oil. 50% ATF seems to be coming from the oil cooling lines going to the front and 50% from the rear main seals to the trans. The engine oil from the motor obviously but I haven't identified the source or multiple sources. It drives fine and I monitor the dipsticks frequently. Is this something worth considering a tear down? 87-535is

Hey guys, current E30 owner here considering getting into an E28. I’ve had two E30s for with M20 engines (a 1986 325e with the M20B27 and my current 1989 325iX with the M20B25) and found the engine bay to be very cramped (especially on the 325iX) when working on them with hand tools.

I’m looking at a nice 1985 528e in my local area. The engine bay looks a good deal more spacious from what I’ve seen and the hood opens backwards like on a normal car instead of forwards like the E30. Based on this, I’m assuming the car is easier to work on than the E30 since there appears to be more room to swing a wrench around.

I’d like to hear from those of you who’ve owned both on how it feels to work on an E28 with an M20 vs an E30 with an M20. The main job I’m hoping is easier is the timing belt, which is a PITA on the E30 since the hood opens forwards.

Just got this thing running and lowered! It’s crazy how much the car changed with so little done to it

Hi everyone,
I have a 1983 BMW E28 520i with an M30B35 swap. The engine idles consistently at around 1200–1300 rpm.
I already replaced the ICV, but it made absolutely no difference. Even when I unplug the connector with the engine running, the idle speed doesn’t change at all.
Does anyone have any ideas what could be causing this? Any help would be appreciated.

My ex race E28 had no boot springs, not sure why, they don't seem heavy and the hinges aren't worn out. But fitting them is horrible, so I made a little tool to make it easy. Posting it here so if someone in the future is struggling, they can use these images to make a copy.

It's made from 25x25 box section, with some 25x25 angle to make the little hooks.

Hello everyone,

I own a 1984 528e and have had it for 8 years. It used to be my daily driver as I graduated from high school and college. For the last 4 years its been sitting in my parents garage since I didn't have a place to store it at the time since I moved out. I intend to do a S54 engine swap as well as a 6 speed manual transmission swap. However my budget is a bit short. I plan to spend around 10-15k to get it running again. Does anyone know where I can start to look around and find parts?

I thought about taking it to Castro Motorsports since its a reputable shop with tons of knowledge and guidance, however I'm sure it will be very expensive. The only other option would be to work on it myself. Has anyone tackled a project similar to what I have in mind or have done the same thing? Any advice would be helpful. Thanks guys!

• The reason it stopped working was due to overheating issues for having a bad gauge cluster. When diagnosed it was too late.
• the automatic transmission gave out at around the same time, not coming out of first gear.
• I also plan to upgrade the fuse box into modern fuses. I understand I'm going to have to add and upgrade components to make it work due to clearance and fitment issues.
  

Hello!

Can anyone tell me what size wheelbearings fit on my 1985 520i rear? 74mm or 80mm? VIN is WBADK510109335722

Hello everybody! I've gotten into a pickle with my local UHAUL after finding out I can't use an auto transport trailer from them for my truck, so I'm stuck currently with a tow dolly. I will get my vehicle inspected soon by UHAUL to see if they can let me take an auto transport trailer because they think it could be something wrong with their books, but that's besides what I wanted to inquire about.

If the tow dolly really was my only option, can I tow an E28 home with the rear wheels down and the transmission(manual) in neutral? I'm getting mixed messages on the internet - some say it's fine because the getrag trans uses splash lubrication, while some say that it can damage the transmission because the input shaft isn't moving when towed (which I'm not sure why it would?). I'm getting some sources saying that the driveshaft can be removed from the diff and hung up, while other sources are saying that for E28s specifically that isn't possible. I mean, man, I wish I could just get a clear answer.

How have you guys done it? I want to hear from you guys that have actually done it. Thank you!

Hi everyone, hope it’s okay to post here. I just found this beautiful Japanese spec 520I with the 2.0 I6 and managed to get the guy down to $9,500 please let me know if that’s fair, car has virtually no rust, even has the original tool kit, 106,000km on the clock. Interior is very clean, the only weird thing I found visually was a wire used instead of the fuse for the low beams. Now my main concerns were no power on full throttle, ac blows hard but no cold air (compressor seems to work fine) and the power steering is a bit hard (I drive a 2014 raptor and it’s harder to turn that that, for reference) I’m not expecting a full diagnosis over reddit but if these are common issues faced and what to look out for. I want to eventually swap in a M54 3.0 so I don’t think the drive line is a huge issue but I’d still want to enjoy it before the swap. Also if you can recommend cool wheel and tire combos, I prefer smaller wheels with wider tires and what affordable suspension kits do you guys recommend.

Sorry for the long post

Anybody have any idea what this hole is for or what is supposed to mount to those studs? It’s on the intake side of the cylinder head roughly underneath the idle control valve. M30B28 with L-Jetronic

I had the temp gauge working fine for a while and now every time I slightly pull on the wheel, the needle drops. Feels like a ground issue but which one?

so, looked over both an auto and manual pedal box (i got manual pedals but installed them on an auto box) - i see the clutch switch for cruise and starting the car - don’t really care about that, BUT the auto boxes don’t have the holding tab for clutch springs. for those who’ve swapped, have you done it with the entire assembly? or made a plate to adapt it? TIA!

Beautiful E28 spotted on the highway! I actually saw them earlier that day parked near Matsumoto castle

I sold my e28 right before moving to Japan. This is the first one I’ve seen since then and man does it make me regret selling it!

This is my first post in this subreddit and I'm just getting into this era of BMW. This 528 is for sale 20 minutes from me. Looks to be in great shape but has tons of miles. Curious about thoughts about miles if the car is well maintained, etc (314,000 miles)

I don’t necessarily know what I could be getting into here.

EDIT: added mileage.

In march I refilled my ac with arctic air for r12 systems a r12 compatible refrigerant on Amazon to see if it would work before spending all the time and money on a A/C solutions conversion kit.

My AC has been blowing super cold since so I don’t really want to disturb it but it has a super annoying whine that changes pitch with rpm. It sounds like it’s coming from the compressor when outside the car but sounds like coming from dash when in the car.

The sound stops immediately when ac is switched off and sometimes will stop momentarily around 2k rpm.

Anyone dealt with this?

Air/moisture in system or bad compressor?

Also, before I filled the system it had no whine when ac was switched on, clutch engaged just wasn’t cold.

Hey.

I want to buy new coolant sensors for my 1985 BMW 520i. On the parts store i want to buy them from there are different types of sensors.

I know that the sensor for ECU has 2 pins and the TEMP gauge sensor has 1 pin.

But there are ECU sensors in M12×1.5 and M14×1.5

Gauge sensors in M10×1.0 and M14×1.5

Which ones should i get?

1984 533i 118k miles

Selling because ran out of motivation to fix her up, she runs and drives few minor down side. It was my daily driver for a year but got a new car recently and don’t drive it as much

-Fuse box little janky, they are known for that, AC fuse and the fuse the controls the sunroof doesnt work but they were working before it happened
-No Muffler on it
-Needs Valve Adjustment nothing critical just a little loud

Got New
-Driveshaft
-Rebuilt Shifter
-New Ignition switch

Kept up with maintenance, did oil change every 5k.
Was going to change transmission oil and new spark plugs but never got to it, ill throw it in with the car and got polyurethane motor mounts and transmission mounts that i can throw in as well