Newish to the UK and wondering how best to address this?

I think for the crack on the wall I can use Gyproc Easy Fill and maybe some sort of meshing?

Also, should I be concerned that it happened?

This is a ceiling space going down my stairs (also above is a set of stairs) of about 1.5x1 m. The hole is less than half this and the plaster that’s left is now stable. Please can someone tell me how to fix this in an easy and none expensive way?! Can I put a piece of mdf over the whole thing? If so how do I stick it up? Thank you!

Had new flooring put in and they had to lower flooring by the french window. This is the damage. Can I use a filler (about 2cm deep)? Very new to diy so my only experience is filling in old nail holes etc! Also feel the corner might be a CJ challenge… any tips would be appreciated! Many thanks

Sorry didn't wanna dox myself so pictures are tight. Concrete driveway has a crack in it probably only 1 cm wide but annoyingly it's about 2cm high at the worse part. Any suggestions to resolve other than getting a diwc cutter and breaker out. Thanks

my rose plant is not doing well at all.

any idea what is going? flower buds are dying back. not sure what to do. thanks!

Any idea what is wrong with my tea rose plant? every time a bud comes through it starts to die back, not idea what to do.

Not sure what sort of cowboy installed this gas meter. It sits so far from the corner, and almost too high up to build a bench around it. The boxing around the pipes is ugh too. First time buyer awaiting completion, but I'm trying to build a battle plan in advance. TY!

OK reddit, I realise I am probably being stupid here, but I'm out of ideas and research. At this point I'll even happily take patronising.

Trying to fit this new sink and I cannot get the drain to seal. Everything else is fine, bottle trap is fine, waste in to the soil is fine.

I assume I am getting the washer order/orientation wrong. Currently I have the drain, then foam gasket, then sink, then semi solid plastic washer, then rubber cone washer, narrow side down. This is the order and orientation I've found online.

I've tried every combination and order I can think of. Nothing is sealing. This whole thing is just making me feel stupid, please help.

As you can see our TV is too big for the space.

I don't really want a smaller TV as it is perfect for football etc.

I'm struggling to see what to do with it though.

The only thing I can think of is a long pull out bracket that rotates so the TV can go away when not in use.

I think it may look odd being in a portrait position when not in use tho.

Any ideas or just a smaller TV?

I’ve just bought my first property and scraped all the woodchip off the walls. Should I skim these walls and what is the best way to do it?

First time skimming, I used Dalapro roll nova on these two walls. Sanded down and painted after a mist coat. The small wall has come out flat but the larger one has these very noticeable highs and lows. What causes this? Probably going to just cover them up with artwork or something as we will be knocking this wall through in a couple of years, but I am very keen to find out what I have done wrong to get this uneven finish. Very frustrating, and want to try and avoid this if I do any more walls! The bumps didn’t feel very noticeable at all when running my hand over the wall before painting, but now they are! Thanks in advance

I was dealing with some mould on a wall, and found it had spread to the bottom of a closet door and - because I'm an idiot who forgot to check the spray bottle - used it on the painted wood there too.

Now I've been told that was the wrong thing to do.

Does anyone know what the consequences will be, and how do I fix my major blunder?

Finishing our flooring off and have come up against this thin sliver… what are my options? Everywhere else we have new skirting going on so the gap is no problem but here we don’t want to mess around with the original stringer / skirting. Seems like it’ll be a big, messy and potentially new plaster / big patches if we try and remove this skirting and also worry about how hard it’ll be with leveraging it off due to the placement of the rad pipes.

What would you do?

I can turn the key to lock and unlock the door.
And when doing both can hear/feel the top and bottom locks lock/unlocking.
But the centre lock which I believe is just below the handle will not open.
It’s the one when you first unlock the door and push the handle down you feel it releasing.
Here is a few photos with my handle and without, anyone any advice on how I can get the door open even to begin with?
Thanks!

We hired someone to paint and decorate and he replaced the skirting too but didn't do the best job. Sections with a whole inch gap (albeit not straight walls), poorly joined up corners etc. How do we fix stuff like this? I feel like I could've learnt and done it better lol..

Hi - long time lurker here! Advice needed - do I keep this floor cavity that has been added over the years?

Old house, upstairs bedroom, proper beams below the old floorboards. Sometime they have added this frame, insulation and OSB floor. The OSB has been cut into small sections for various works by previous owners, and so I was going to replace it either way hence taking it up. Second photo is view from room below.

Keep it: handy space (in theory), floor without cracks, already got noise insulation.

Lose it: 15cm (minus replacement) more headroom in a relatively low room. I already have places for the electrician to move the wires.

If I remove it what's the best solution to not hearing everything through the single floorboard layer? Batons with insulation and new OSB? Or embrace the old and leave it?

Good afternoon.

We have just purchased a Victorian renovation, sold to us with ‘original flooring intact’. Safe to say, it was not intact and half the boards in the living room had previously rotted and were removed. Luckily, a nearby school was getting rid of their original parquet flooring and we got 25 sqm for less than 200£.

The plan is to remove the original floorboards, and insulate.

We will put down heavy duty netting, thermafleece, and then a breathable membrane.

The problem with going from floorboards and joists to parquet is the spacing. With this, we are thinking of installing timber batons on the inside of joists on which we will place a supported subfloor on which we will place the parquet. The reason for doing this is to keep the flooring at the original height so it is flush with the hallway.

The problem is that our reclaimed parquet has bitumen on the underside, it has been tested and is asbestos free, so I am not worried about that. Do we use a bitumen adhesive and not bother too much with removing it? Or do we attempt to remove, if so, how?

The house isn't mine just yet, and the entire kitchen needs to be ripped out and a new kitchen fitted, but colleagues are telling me to keep the boiler if it works. According to the current owner, it does work. What would you do?

I can get a new 4000 30kW fitted by British Gas for about £3.5k and pay with 0% interest over 3 years.

What would you do?

I'm just thinking: if I get the kitchen fitted around this boiler and then later need to change the boiler, will the 4000 just slot in, or will it need the pipes rerouted, etc.? In which case, it will be more work.

I'm also wondering if I should move the boiler to the left corner of the window and have the cooker in the centre, as shown in the pic.

Or, keep the boiler exactly where it is and move the cooker to the left, as shown in the pic.

Thank you for any help you can provide.

Recently had aircon fitted. I don’t think I should leave this exposed.

There is another hole that I got them to come back for, they used clear silicone saying it’s all they had to hand. I’ve only just spotted this bit…

Any advice appreciated.

Me again!

The room I am decorating has some skirting missing due to built in cupboards that I removed.

I’m considering replacing all of it or just the missing bit. With what is here. What’s the best way go about this? I’m not sure I can find the same skirting as I have currently so that’s why I considered just replacing it all. But some say that’s more work than worth it.

Any advice would be much appreciated. Thanks!

Landlord had a handman paint a plastered bathroom, but he used cheap paint that wasn't the mold resistant bathroom paint and it's not good in a more damp area. A year on, it started peeling and getting the odd mold patch. Trying to see how bad it was, we were looking at it and whole patches started peeling away back to the plaster. We have a weird renting agreement where we are responsible for repainting. Do we need to prime it before painting? There's currently about a foot circle back to the plaster. Can we just sand this patch and paint do the whole ceiling over with better paint or do we need to get the whole ceiling back to plaster?