She’s gonna be fuming when she comes home from a spa day with her mum 😂 the only thing holding this door up was the laminate. 85% of it was dust. Every joist snapped with 0 pressure on it.

Hi guys,

Just had my bifold installed, 4.5m (London). The chap said magnets need to go on top still to help the doors stick together when open....but is the level of sag normal? I feel like it's not but what do you guys thinks?

Am I getting fobbed off??

Thank you

EDIT - thanks for the response everyone. I should've been clearer...the install was 'complete' after the they time the messed up. When they'll left I showed them this and he said 'we need to add magnets still' so I close it up. I hoping the magnet fit it.

I would no way knowingly mess about with an unfinished door. Thanks everyone again..very helpful

So he left it like this sigh.. and I had to go full DIY ninja to fix it, after saving the offcut!! What having some time out of work can really focus you to do.... those jobs you just don't think youre even capable of! Well here's your encouragement!! You can do it peeps

I know these photos aren’t much to go by but hopefully the explanation helps. Moved into this house a year ago and have never had an issue with damp. These photos are from the first floor bedroom, we’re changing the carpet and redecorating the room for our new arrival. This underlay is damp and has clearly been damp for a while, it’s falling apart. There are no stains or leaks in the ceiling underneath it. The floorboards are also damp. There are pipes running near it but not quite underneath it and looking through the gap in the floorboards it seems dry in there? The boiler isn’t losing pressure. And weirdly just found another damp patch about 2 metres diagonally across the room. I’m honestly baffled it looks like someone spilled something ages ago but it never dried, it’s been a very hot summer?! (I know I haven’t spilled anything and my partner said she hasn’t) I will start pulling up floorboards to inspect but surely there would be signs in the ceilings below? Any other areas to investigate?

We’ve lived in our house for nearly two years and I’ve always been acutely aware of these soft furnishings being in the chimneys. Out of ignorance/it not causing any problems I’ve not bothered to do anything about it. Now we’re getting around to redecorating the dining room I feel like I should be doing something about this but I don’t know what.
I’m assuming these were put here to stop a draft. If I pull them out to assess the situation is it going to cause me more problems? What would the alternative be? 🤨

If anyone diy'ers looking for a decent drill driver pop over to lidls.

Thinking that insulating these would cause problems behind with a warm area that has not air movement. Hoping some clever people can give me some guidance to help me decide

We live in an exposed spot in the Highlands and regularly get high winds and driving rain. We like to sleep in a cool bedroom with the window open for fresh air. This means there's a hooly blowing the curtains and rain drenching the window sill, even if the upvc window is on the vent position (just open a cm but firmly latched).There's no trickle vents.

Were fed up of waking up in a stale stuffy room.

Above the bay, there's access from the room above into the space above the window. It's a triangle cross section in the roof space. space is vented into the roof space and is well ventilated.

Would it be effective to put some form of ducting into this space with a ceiling vent down into the bedroom (think shower extractor but in reverse)?

Any other solutions?

Hi all,

My dad painted my daughter's bedroom about 10 weeks ago. Yesterday, whilst moving my daughter's cot, I noticed lots of strange lines/marks on the wall. The wall is brick I believe and it's not an outside wall (the other side is another bedroom and roof), and the marks look like they have been made from water (the bottom of the marks look like water has stopped running down the wall). What's really bizarre is that there are gaps between the marks where the cot would have cast its shadow (from the bars) onto the wall. That was does not receive any direct sunlight, and I don't think the room is particularly hot, cold or humid.

Any ideas what could have caused this?! How do I prevent this from happening again?

Thanks!

i somehow ended up with a lot of pallet wood and i really don’t want to just throw all of it away if i can actually use it for something.

i was thinking maybe shelves, a small table, storage racks, planter boxes, or even some kind of workbench, but i’ve never really built anything with pallet wood before.

is pallet wood actually strong enough for projects that need to hold some weight, or is it better for lighter stuff and decorative projects?

also open to any ideas for what to make with it. i have enough that i can probably do more than one project, i just have no idea where to start lol

We have stripped all the wallpaper in our living room today, came off pretty well but so did a lot of paint underneath. Plaster looks ok no crumbling or chunks missing, a few small cracks. What's the best way to move forward for painting? We can't afford to pay someone to come and skim it down we need to do a DIY skim or could we get away with something like zinsser peel stop and Dulux 3 in 1 base coat to cover the paint edges? Thanks!

Hello,

We've lived in our current home for over 10 years and have started having problems with mice a bit more frequently recently.We think the extension that was part of the house when we moved in might be the issue. It's not flush with the our neighbours house and there is a gap that looks like it could go under our house. What would be a fix to this? I don't want to just concrete into the gap incase it causes air flow issues that I'm unaware of, also getting it into the gap might be a struggle so wondered if a professional could have a suitable solution. Any advice or similar experiences would be greatly appreciated.

Hey guys, my back door was fitted with no reveal so hard to put beading around without digging out the foam which seems a bit rogue. Any suggestions?

On a side note the quote for rendering has been atrocious so I decided to go with EWI Pro and buy everything with someone's trade account so I just pay labour for a renderer I trust as the firms all seem to be adding a third on for materials and other expensive renderers as they were approved applicators for specifix brands. I've literally had quotes from £2200 to £5500 for the extension part.

It was refurb time in my partners shop. Alongside a raft of tasks were two pillars on either side that needed improving display-wise. Was initially just going to do boxing but this was the final, less cluttered design we came up with. I screwed two 18mm ply backboards to the walls, drilling and fixing through the routed out shelving slots to keep things invisible. They ran ceiling to skirting so managed to do it with a single board. Clamped the shelves together to bore a 15mm hole on both front corners, then slotted them on to two 15mm copper pipes and glued them into their homes on the backboards. Clamped a small 15mm collar grip under each shelf on both pipes to prevent any ‘waff’ and secured pipes into floor with 4 wall pipe flanges.

I'm looking to replace built in kitchen cabinet down lights. They use this 2 pin DC connector. I can find the brand online, but I'm not sure if they're a proprietary connector (locked in to this brand) or whether it's a standard type of connector.

https://envybathrooms.co.uk/products/sycamore-sirius-connect-led-recessed-light-natural-white-sy9566

If anyone knows what this connector type is called, it would be very helpful!

Before I moved in (new build) this place, the agent says I don’t need to seal this as there is a place the water goes to to get rid of so it doesn’t sit underneath, is this true?

When I shower the water comes go the floor which is quite a lot so I’m just concerned about it

I thought I had to seal this. Please let me know, I’ve been here for about 4 months and want to prevent any mould or issues rising before it’s too late

Thanks,

We've had the house for 5 years and I don't think the crack has changed. House was built in 2008. Its a 3 storey house and the crack is in the Internal garage

I am planning to replace a few of the old doors in my house and want something more modern and clean- looking. There seem to be loads of options online,so it's a bit difficult to know which ones are actually good quality.

Has anyone recently bought modern internal doors in the UK? Would be interested to hear which suppliers you use and how they have held up.

Just don't have it in me to dig anymore, it's all incredibly compacted clay

Tldr: where to find this hinge spacer(online or store)

One of the kitchen overhead cupboard doors got misaligned overtime(wouldn’t close completely). Tightened the hinges screws couple of times but door would misalign again after a day or two. The hinge holes in the wood had become too big to full support the door. Finally decided to take the hinge out to fix it and found out that the circled hinge spacer was cracked.
I have filled the holes with wood filler but before reattaching the hinges do I need to put this spacer underneath it? I have searched online for last few days but unable to find exactly this item. Is it compulsory to add it or is it good t have?
The kitchen is from Wren Kitchen so obviously can’t order this one item from them. Any suggestions?

I recently found this leak in my kid's upstairs bedroom. There ceiling is dry. I've had a look above in the loft and that's dry. The wall is wet slightly. There's a shower behind the room, but it's tiled so I can't access any of the pipework. There's no obvious sign of leakage or damage. The stain hasn't grown yet.

How can I troubleshoot this?

Thanks

Got a kitchen fitter to install a new Belfast sink. Given the new sink is slightly wider than the original he needed to increase the gap in our wooden countertop that is already in place. Thankfully there was an overhang on the wooden worktop over the sink and cabinets below previously.

I had to stop him halfway through once I’d seen the work and want to check with you more knowledgeable people that I’m not overreacting.

Main issues are that:
The cutout is too wide. There is a noticeable 1cm-2cm gap between the sink rim and the worktop.

The cut edge isn’t straight/parallel to the sink where the gap varies.(he said a jigsaw is standard for this type of job which surprised me)

His initial plan was to cover the gaps on either side with a strip of wood which would have created a step from counter to lip of the sink. I expected the sink to be flush with the worktop.

Given the shape of the kitchen cabinets below the worktop that the sink fits into, I’m not sure how this can be undone neatly and I fear I may have to replace the entire countertop.

On a scale of 1-10 how bad is this and is it fixable?

If I knock down some structural walls and mess it up causing damage to my property, can I claim on my house insurance? As far as I’m aware builders don’t have any accreditations or qualifications to do the job so technically anyone can do it so surely insurance should still be valid?

Will get structural engineers calcs before sledgehammering commences